@Thermionman1970 It's kinda fun too ;) Check out my more recent videos 'GE 212 radio restoration p5o7' and 'Recapping Electrolytics from Below' for more tutorials.
Nice work! We typically prefer the "seamless" method, removing the electrolytics from the chassis and opening the crimped rims to disassemble the cans, followed by tapping the crimps back in place with a small "tack hammer" for the neatest possible closure. A hose clamp, padded with a wrap of tape to minimize scratching, helps avoid distortion of the can's base during re-crimping. About 40%-50% of multi-section units will actually re-form to OEM specifications with low ESR without re-stuffing.
@jshorva65 After verifying ESR <= 0.75 ohms and re-forming through a 27K/5W resistor from a DC supply set to 115% of the capacitor's rated voltage, capacitors which do not show obvious signs of stress (tar bulging through cutouts in the phenolic insulator, etc.) often meet a maximum DC leakage current specification of 27uA at 450V (OEM specification for a new 40uF/450V capacitor of circa 1948 vintage), typically holding below 35uA leakage at 525V to give 5 years or more of trouble-free use.
Everyone else says "Put new caps inside the old case". You actually show it being done.
Your videos are so valuable! Not everyone has somebody around who knows what they are doing to 'show them". Keep making the videos. They are appreciated. Thanks!
My pleasure. I learned all that I know from the guys over at the videokarma and antique radio forums. I figure this is my way of paying back the community and promote the hobby.
brilliant method, thanks for sharing
DevonSowell 2 weeks ago
Thankyou so much for showing how to do this! I really want to keep things looking vintage.
Thermionman1970 1 year ago
@Thermionman1970 It's kinda fun too ;) Check out my more recent videos 'GE 212 radio restoration p5o7' and 'Recapping Electrolytics from Below' for more tutorials.
bandersentv 1 year ago
Nice work! We typically prefer the "seamless" method, removing the electrolytics from the chassis and opening the crimped rims to disassemble the cans, followed by tapping the crimps back in place with a small "tack hammer" for the neatest possible closure. A hose clamp, padded with a wrap of tape to minimize scratching, helps avoid distortion of the can's base during re-crimping. About 40%-50% of multi-section units will actually re-form to OEM specifications with low ESR without re-stuffing.
jshorva65 1 year ago
@jshorva65 After verifying ESR <= 0.75 ohms and re-forming through a 27K/5W resistor from a DC supply set to 115% of the capacitor's rated voltage, capacitors which do not show obvious signs of stress (tar bulging through cutouts in the phenolic insulator, etc.) often meet a maximum DC leakage current specification of 27uA at 450V (OEM specification for a new 40uF/450V capacitor of circa 1948 vintage), typically holding below 35uA leakage at 525V to give 5 years or more of trouble-free use.
jshorva65 1 year ago
how cool is that? i had no idea thats whats in a capacitor.
its amazing to think all those parts work together to make
a tv work.really puts into perspective how important
each part is.
chompo7 2 years ago
I like the care you take in keeping the TV looking as it did. These are some great tutorials, very fascinating.
TheNixerFromFlickr 2 years ago
Nice job, Bob.
Everyone else says "Put new caps inside the old case". You actually show it being done.
Your videos are so valuable! Not everyone has somebody around who knows what they are doing to 'show them". Keep making the videos. They are appreciated. Thanks!
kb1awv 2 years ago
My pleasure. I learned all that I know from the guys over at the videokarma and antique radio forums. I figure this is my way of paying back the community and promote the hobby.
bandersentv 2 years ago