Fitness Advice : Weight Training for Rock Climbing

[Mattandhisdroid]

lol....pulling!? what about my legs...cuz im pretty sure us good climbers use are legs the most

[Bronymuffin]

ya man

[huyiy]

finally... the video that can make me climb like chris sharma!

[StonesTHATdontROLL]

@huyiy Lol he could climb grade 7b or  5.14c age 15!! Now his record is 9c or 5.15c roughly

[bikelovr]

u suck at training

[MikeyTheBones]

this is not how you "get in shape for rock climbing"

[Richandler]

Wow arrogance on youtube comments. Surprising. He never says it's a substitute for climbing. It's a small supplemental workout. No different than training for any other sport.

[JayT017]

Is he out of breath after like 5 pull-ups?

[orangejulius072]

@JayT017 i think you are right..

pretty ridiculous though

he sounds out of breath through the entire video, i can't trust his lack of knowledge, he's probably never climbed before in his life

[typhoon535]

Farmers walks for climbing and single leg deadlifting? What's next? I can just see it now next thing: Get better at rock climbing by cross training in other sports JOGGING.

As a side not taking fitness advice from a guy that's out of breath after 4 pullups and a single leg deadlift with negligible weight seems very wrong to me.

[xISIolDieIRIx]

JUST SOME GOOD ADVICE FOR THOSE TRYING TO TRAIN FOR ROCK CLIMBING. IF YOU WANT TO TRAIN FOR ROCK CLIMBING. THEN YOU NEED TO ROCK CLIMB.

EXPERT VILLAGE HAHA :s....... YEA OKAY..

[daviewavie112]

im gonna start doing the farmers walk at the gym. just to see what people say

[OwenStaton1]

this is pretty good and varied workout i like it good stuff :)

[trevorish2]

how high is this retard? 

[wstlclimb]

WTF this guy never climb anything

[laddyy]

@jenniferl9 I hate it when people like you say the best way to get in shape for rock climbing is rock climbing. Are you telling me that doing chin-ups and weight lifting does nothing? Please. The guy is not Bench-pressing 500lbs or pulling a tractor-trailer across some studio, he is doing chin ups and calf-strengthening.

[AntiHero12109]

@laddyy the best training for rock climbing IS climbing. I hate when douche bags get all over people because of their opinion. We are talking about climbing mountains, and extreme alpinismismsism. Most people who are good at climbing will tell you hitting up the gyms is a mistake. Not to NEVER do it, but that the best way to train is to climb more, not just go and lift, so STFU YOU NOOB

[laddyy]

@AntiHero12109 What are you, like 4 years old? You hate when 'douche bags get all over people because of their opinion?" isn't that what YOU are doing?

You call me a noob and yet you can't even spell alpinism. (and you forgot to put a 'not' between 'are' and 'talking')

[AntiHero12109]

@laddyy I'm not reading a single thing you had to say, you're too ignorant to try and speak with, that is all

[laddyy]

@AntiHero12109 I was replying to a person who said that the ONLY way to get strong for climbing IS climbing; which is wrong. Her comment was erased because it was so blatant. Being in a controlled environment, training specific muscles is a great way to train and be injury free and is a great supplement to climbing itself . Its called cross-training you should try it, every top climber does it.

Caldwell, Glowacz, Gullich, Osman, Potter etc. etc. etc... ALL of them cross-trained.

[laddyy]

@AntiHero12109 My advice to you is to pick up a book and read. (judging by your reactionary response, and elementary usage of english, you might want to start with something with large print and pictures.) After reading more than a dozen books on how to train for climbing (alpinism, bouldering, hard trad, etc ,etc) I can safely say that there will not be one book that will discredit the use of a weight gym on the contrary, they will say its a fundamental part of development as a climber.

[samurphy]

@laddyy I agree with the spirit of what you say. The BEST way to practice anything is to do it, but if you've got one thing you really need to target, say weak lats, its quicker to target that with weight training. Weight training lets you bust performance plateaus. If you look at some climbers, like Sharma, he more or less trains for climbing by climbing. Others, train in the gym day and night for comps. Both are valid. Beginners who want to get strong fast might want to hit the gym.

[pogoMkiv]

@samurphy i cant climb v15...it must be my weak buttcheeks..... DAMN THESE GENETICS!

[ScottiG06]

zzzzzzzzzz man, yeah, o k then ha ha.

[hydr5]

squats have improved my dyno 10 fold

[mezzanodalaghetto]

Working legs with compund exercises help to strengthen your core this is the point to work out legs austinam0n is right!

[austinam0n]

You people are saying you dont need to use your legs in climbing. Your crazy. Go watch dave graham boulder, his primary source of strength is how he heel hooks and toe hooks. Now i dont clim v15, but at v10 there are plenty of times im happy i can do double toe hooks or heel hooks to a high hold. This workout he's doing isnt intense so why not do it if its going to help your climbing. Dont be ignorant

[RainyRaver]

I regularly climb 5.11s, so I'm not the best but I'm at least experienced. I don't see how working out your legs in things like squats will help. In my experience, it's not so much leg strength that helps me, but it is flexibility of the groin.

I think what would be far more beneficial would be to train with unbalanced weights and work out your core, as stability is a key in rock climbing.

Best way to train without climbing in my opinion is doing frenchies on a hangboard.

[fernando5821]

Crimping on microholds on a 5.12/5.13 doesn't require a great deal of leg strength. Doing hundreds of pull-ups also doesn't help when you're climbing in the 5.12 range. Climbing is largley a function of strong fingers, and flawless technique.

[austinam0n]

I hope the people behind their comments actually climb. Working out your legs is one of the most important aspects to climbing as well as, working your counter muscles such as doing pushups because your always pulling and not working the opposite muscle. Try doing say a 5'11, when the foot nibs get a bit small before you start working out your legs, then work out your legs for a month and go to the same route. The difference will be obvious. For balance and not using all your upper strength.

[naval8viator]

@austinam0n

Before I was involved in a very serious climbing accident which almost took my life (400 pound boulder came down on me while I bouldering), I was starting to climb 5.12's and I never did any type of leg workouts. In climbing you do need to have good footwork, but you dont necessarily need strong legs.

[906250181]

Obviously, this is not a comprehensive program for rock climbers. I think these exercises can't hurt your climbing. These are definitely worth trying.

[nospamreceived]

I climb 5.10 sport & 5.8 trad & cannot do a pull up. Does this guy even climb?

[willspurplemonkeys]

are you trying to say that strength is not benificial to rock climbing? what happens when you get on anything other than a slab?

it might not be the best video, but if your gna make a point... make a good one.

[huyiy]

@nospamreceived what are you trying to say? you don't need to be able to do a pull up to climb even 5.11

[jpsartre666]

i disagree with people that say those leg exercises have nothing to do with rock climbing. i mean they might not be the absolute best but they would certainly help. calf presses would probably be more useful though.

[tisaacso3625]

This guy has good intentions but those leg exercises have nothing to do with climbing.

[naval8viator]

In fact, the single best exercise for beginners working on getting in shape for rock climbing is just dead-hanging from a pullup bar (or if you are strong enough, from a pair of slopers ). Nothing builds up the much needed forearm strength like sets of dead-hangs to complete finger peeling failure.

[Joshn11]

The best way for beginners to get better at rock climbing is by ROCK CLIMBING

[nirvana613]

@Joshn11 true story

[TheBigdowgz]

@Joshn11 and when you arent at the wall?

[Taurus8763]

Push ups on your knuckles, wrists and fingers can help with grip an d holds......

[Axe2Dome]

Tis guy talks like dave chappel's white guy impression. :) good tips!

[lewistewart2]

yeah he said that the last exercise was working on flexibility but i didnt see anything of the sort.i agree though that you mostly climb with youre legs but it is very important to have arm strenght. about 60% leg 40%arm.

[naval8viator]

Climbing is almost entirely upper body. I've never heard of someone's legs "getting pumped". Your legs keep you stable and keep the weight off your upper body, but its your upper body that is pulling you up. Good footwork can save your upper body and give it rest, but unless the climb is literally a ladder, anything even slightly overhung is going to require mainly upper body strength.

[naval8viator]

In my experience the most overlooked component in climbing workouts is core strength. As you progress to higher difficulty climbs, many of the moves require intense body tension, ie they require you to "core up":.

[lewistewart2]

its true and at my climbing centre we use the indo boards to gain balance

[traceurpaul]

cheers, that was helpfull.

[badgeeater]

Don't even bother criticising. Everyone should know that 9 out of 10 expertvillage videos are useless.

[mtb416]

Haha, you're right badgeeater!

I found the single foot deadlift type exercise to be useful. I'll start using that. He's not a climber, just giving advice to others who might want to break into the sport. Any climber who relies on their upper body strength entire is what you call a bad climber. It's more about legs.

It's called worker smarter, not harder. Ask yourself, those who criticize, what's stronger, your arms or legs?

[imsothemanXD]

so how exactly do you you climb when you have no footholds...gj guy..

[mtb416]

You use your arms, guy.

My logic is sound and true.

Take it easy!

[huyiy]

@badgeeater 9.9 out of 10

[climberdave3]

i also find handstands are pretty much the best exercise i do - goin into them static gets all the push and core, then holding it for stability et voila! you are now chris sharma!.....i wish lol

[climberdave3]

being fair to him, those exercises actually do help for climbing. anyone who says otherwise is just attempting to brag over youtube cos noone can see how weak a climber they are :)

id agree with roddyheat though...if you are gonna do pull-ups (and you really should) do it with both hands forward facing, preferably on holds rather than a bar, cos thats pretty much the closes simulation to climbing that pull-ups can give you.

[MrManlyMan500]

the dude is gassed after like 4 pullups lol!!!

[ObiAntKenobi]

notice he goes all the way down...forcing himself to carry his whole body weight up...hard...

[angrywetsuit]

There's no way you could do it worse. This video is a fail.

[GeneralFighter911]

faking gr1 trainning..

[teahupo26]

if ur going to add leg work for climbing,a far better exercise would be the pistol squat as it replicates the movement far more closely than deadlift! rly should be showing work on forearm,back and shoulderstrength incl locks,lowers,deadhangs etc. ab work and flexibility should be included. ur video is useless for climbing

[triplecold]

Instead of being so quick to criticize, why not make a video to contribute what you know about training for climbing. The man stated that he was only demonstrating some exercises that may be useful as supplementary exercises for climbing, and not a complete program. That clearly was not the goal here. Instead of criticizing, DO it better.

[roddyheat]

Triplecold. The thing is those exercises aren't really that useful as supplementary exercises either.  The best thing he showed was probably the pull up, and even pull ups are not really that useful for climbing but are probably better than nothing.

And if your going to do pull ups for climbing don't do them like that lol