Added: 9 months ago
From: EverardJunction
Views: 9,972
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  • So... How much did it cost you?? About?

  • Hi, great video.

    I find trimming the rod connecting the tie bar of the point quite tough to trim off, do you use wire cutters?

  • @boneyknocknees They can be quite tough, I use a dremel.

  • do you need electrofrog points for this sort of point motor i am using hornby motors but just dont seem strong enough ??

  • @smithy9148 The seep PM1 is best used with electrofrog, it will work fine with normal points though.

  • Ur layout is great.mine needs a lot of work and I have problems with my points either peco and hornby of shorting out or locos stalling on em.any suggestions what I can do

  • @Mr45115apollo The track needs to be very clean to work properly, also the locos wheels and pickups need to be free from dirt and fluff.

  • how many bus wires do you have?

  • @zaccee1996 2 sets.  One for DCC and the other for DC accessory power.

  • Great video am i right in thinking that the 12v on the switch and 0 (c) go to a acceries bus wire?

  • @liverkewell07 Yes they do

  • wonderfull video and very helpfull to me, thanks alot,

  • Hello Mate,

    I'm finally getting near the end of soldering droppers onto my tracks and like you, have decided to go with the point motors although I hadn't made up my mind at the start. I will use Seep PM1s as well, but have yet to buy them. Can you tell me please what size hole to leave for the point motor? I've seen motors fitted to the underside of ponts and dropped 'into' the base boards but the holes for these have to be quite large so I would prefer the same method as you.

    Cheers,

    Chris

  • @jackabeejackson The best size for the hole is probably about the size of a 1p coin. Then the motor can be mounted underneath.

  • @EverardJunction Brilliant- Thank you.

  • and do you do it on your points inclueding y-points as well thanks

  • @sparetool1 I try to do it on all of my points

  • HI First would just like to say love the layout and all the vids on here. Just one question on the points i get all the wiring up and how it works i just noticed that half way down the turn out there are two cuts is this to stop a short circuit when the point is changed and one more question on your 3-way point did u use one point motor. Thanks

    and again great videos cant wait for the next.

  • @sparetool1 My 3 way point uses 2 motors.

  • many thanks for the info.I am not electrical minded but I am following your instructions I am not sure regarding the white wire what you mean or where it goes. I think you do a great job explaining on these vids and look forward to some more many thanks

  • @44662dc Everything electrical needs whats known as an "earth" to work. An earth is somthing that is 0V. In my case 0V comes from negative side of my old DC contoller.

  • hey matey

    I have posted this on a facebook group that deals with model railway stuff. There is a few on there that don't know how to or where to start with wiring up point motors. I have wired up the seep point and berko 2 aspect signals together and be on my layout sometime soon!

  • Hi love the video very helpful as I am experiencing the problem (livefrog )which you are illustrating. I am running D.C.C. but operate my points DC. Is it possible to do a similar wiring job as you have described

  • @44662dc You can do the same job as i have done. My points are operated using a dc controller.

  • Wonder if you can help? The way i have made my base board in the loft, with lots of strengthening batons underneath it wont be practical to drill holes underneath the board, what sort of electircal points could i use?

  • @jasonandjoesrailway You would be best with insulfrog points, and would have to use some sort of surface mounted point motors instead.

  • ill understand if you say no...but im creating a 'How to Hornby' series and i was wondering if i could post your video on my channel and i will have a message saying "i dont take any credit for this video....it was made by EverardJunction so be sure to check out his channel after the video"

  • Ohhhhhh! My error, after reviewing the video over n over i now clearly understand, it was my ignorance, U are using electrofrogs, its just that u further add better constant power so that no matter how dirty the inbetween faces of rail get....u still smoothly get thru..forgiv me for wasting ur time with this i trust ur knowledge n knew that id better review vid, now i got it thanx again to ur great instruction..Ralphy

  • Hi, i notice u power the insulated frog with green wire becus it isnt powered, now xcus me if im ignorant about something, but would'nt using the electro frogs eliminate havin to add green wire but still use plastics where u did? If reading this tells u im too far off in my knowledge of all this, I wont blame u for not answering, its jus that it seems to me like i wont hav to add green with electrofrogs..thx, Ralphy

  • Thank you very much mate. love your channel big fan, your to date is looking bril i look forward to watching more of it .

  • @AdamHorton1234 Thanks mate, more vids to come.

  • hi if you dont mind me asking how do you power your your seep motors, what power pack do you use and do you use a cdu. thank you

  • @AdamHorton1234 I use an old gaugemaster controller for power, at present I don't use a cdu.

  • how did u get the grass inbetween the tracks ?

  • Hi, can you tell me the make of points you are using? I totally agree they are far more realistic! I'm just starting out (again) and will be watching your great videos for info. Excellent work Everard Junction!

  • @djcharlyc they are made by gaugemaster and they are called seep motors

  • @EverardJunction

    Brill, when I get a good space to put up my layout in I will go there!

    PS if you don't mind, could I have plans for your layout? I can give you my email.

    I won't copy in putting YouTube videos on like yours, or I could send them to you before putting them on(when I get a layout up and running)

    THANKS ENYWAY

  • Where do u get it all

  • @JAS0NJW Model shops, like Hattons, Rails of sheffield, gaugemaster, model zone, hobbycraft and scenicexpress. Most of my stuff comes from hattons.

  • what switches are those

  • @GreenValleyRailway The switches I use are the single poll, double throw type, I got them off ebay.

  • do you need to make insul frog points live using the motor?

  • question. I love those wagons you have behind the class 33. Could you tell me those would fit in a 1960's era or not?

  • @bluecoatscheesypoofs I don't think they do, they were built in the 80s I think.

  • @EverardJunction Oh alright. Thank you. By the way, amazing layout!

  • Thanks for putting that together... until now i didnt really understand the peco points so i went with Hornby and put the power clips on them for DCC 99% of my layout is Hornby track.

  • Can this be done with totoise motors,I know Im lazy and should be able to look this up myself but you seem to be extremely knoligeable on the subject,

  • @stephenj7841 I think you will have to look it up. I know nothing about those motors

  • Brilliant video, thank you.

  • Please can you tell me the dimensions of the gauge master point motor. Great Video

  • @theboywithtrains They are 15mm x 55mm

  • The best explination regarding electrofrog points and wiring point motors i've ever seen. I now feel a lot more confident, thank you.

  • @boneyknocknees No problem mate, glad it helped you

  • Thank you very much for this video. I've always been confused by this frog switching, but you've explained it brilliantly.

  • @gooders1958 Thanks, glad it helped you.

  • Very nice, but I don't uderstand the DCC + -, so it takes power from your layouts power, but isent DCC on 16vAC?, or have you got a DC 12v power going into it?

    Also, I have about 7 Insul fog points (hornby), do peco do Eltro in the same radius?

  • @itgamer100 The dcc + - goes to the motor and gives the track power. To make the motor move i use the dc 12v. DCC is AC voltage and must only be used to power the track either directly or through a polarity switch on a point motor. Peco do make points the same size of the basic hornby ones, i don't know if they do electrofrog ones though.

  • hi if like me you use DC, does the + & - go to the + & - of the track controller and the point change wire go to the 16v on the back on the gaugemaster controller, thanks

  • @bobbysong69 If you are you using dc then terminals D & E of the motor go to the + & - track feed from the controller. All the rest of the wiring is the same. The wire that goes to the centre of the switch and terminal C go to the + & - 12v feed on the back of the gaugemaster controller. Don't use the 16v as this is AC voltage and will not make things work.

  • THANKS FOR THE POINTS VIDEO AS ALWAYS YOU MAKE IT LOOK SO STRAIGHT FORWARD

  • @JOHNALANKAIN Thanks

  • Still not sure how to wire from the point motor to the rest of the layout as you have not told us this

  • @slendersausage I did, attaching the wires into the blue crimp blade splicers is wiring them to the rest of the layout. As said 2 wires go to DCC + and - the other 2 are DC + and - to operate the switch. Everyone's layout wiring is slightly different so I focused the vid on the motor itself as this was what most people were asking about.

  • Top vid man. Thought this stuff was beyond me until now. But your explanation was spot on clear. Ta!

  • @bartoncessna1 Thanks

  • nice video i can remember doing my point motors, along job but worth it.

  • @jaannetts16 It does make a real difference, i've now installed 17 and it getting very boring.

  • I see your using wooden sleepers, Im planning to build a layout in this era, could I use concrete sleepers?

  • @MrBenbo96 You could, during this time british rail had a mix of concrete and woodern sleepers on the network.

  • Respond to this video... 

  • Great vid thanks but how would you wire a three way point with seep motors?

  • @MrBenbo96 My 3 way point has 2 switches so you just use 2 seeps.

  • great video with the insulated fishplates i will have to get some because one of my train keeps cutting out. thanks for the advice that was in the video

  • @EverardJunction you have some great videos

  • @southwesttrain159 Thanks

  • helpfull vid

  • @denim4men Thank you

  • Haven't you had enough of fittting point motors?

  • @Class59Cameron Yes i have but i'm not far from finishing them all, only 4 left!

  • a very good tutorial video mate.but it seems like to much hard work for me tho LOL!i really like the static grass around the siding of the tmd, i must invest in a grassmaster soon.looking forwards to another update.

  • @bloodmarine77 Thanks mate, it does take time.  My fastest time was about 40mins

  • Another masterclass!! Do you Install plastic joiners at both ends then including the one nearest the switcher blades, and are they fairly reliable and simple to understand, Cheers as always

  • @armleyroad Thanks mate, you only need the insulating joiners at the end of the V coming from the frog. Once those are on the point will work like any other.

  • are you able to fi a motor if you have already ballasted the track?

    and if so , how?

  • @hornbyhobby It is possible if (like me) you drilled a hole for the point motor before the ballasting. If you didn't the you can pobably get away with a surface mounted point motor, but i've never actually used one.

  • @EverardJunction okay ill have to reballast after fitting them

  • Hi mate wot if u you use insfrog points.exc video mate

  • @gazclass58 Thanks, if you use insulfrog you don't need a polarity switch and the wiring is more simple.

  • Comment removed

  • once again a brilliant vid, i am using insul frog with hornby point motors but am liking these points and motors. are they peco points ??

  • @maxilfli1 Yeah, they are peco code 100 streamline points, you can get them in insulfrog or electrofrog

  • @T0pper221 The switches are from ebay, they are double throw centre off switches

  • Nice Work i'll have to do this when i get a layout up and running.

  • @TrainMadJames Thanks, they make a real difference

  • good video! but i dont have a bus wire in my layout. at the moment i have a standard dc hornby controler but soon i will have the hornby sellect. what shal i do if i ever need to have point motors? (i probably will)

  • @ps3nut17 Thanks. I've just had a quick look and the hornby select has 4 sockets on the back. 2 are for the track, the other 2 are a 15v dc supply, you can use that to power the point motors.

  • @T0pper221 the switches dont actualy have a make they are just what model shops have you can order these from all components thow just google all components and they will be on there site thx

  • @pyronathanpyro The motors are easy to find, wire is from maplins and the switches are from ebay, they are double throw centre off switches.

  • @EverardJunction well to the guy above me there you go my model shop have big reels of wire and they stock thses switches and point motors but coz i work for the model shop stuff are cheaper to me so no need for me to shop elsewere lol

  • Great i may try this !

  • @HornbyLad1000 Once you've done 1 is gets quite easy

  • Great Explanation really helpful! 

  • @ipodwindow Glad I could help

  • another great video your layout looks very realistic

  • @Whizzer1 Thanks

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