Added: 10 months ago
From: EricTheCarGuy
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  • do you have to take the engine out of the car to this job, or can it be done while the engine is still in place?

  • Awesome video. Eric knows his cars!

  • Thanks for yet another informative video. I recently did a timing belt and water pump on my D-Series DOHC, but now have this whining noise which wasn't there before. Do you think the belt is over-tensioned perhaps?

  • its a civic just junk the thing

  • @twiztid526 cool story bro, tell it again.

  • @luvyouinmouth shut up useless troll no one cares what you think or say

  • @twiztid526 tell it agian, 1 more time?

  • @luvyouinmouth i shouldnt have to not my fault you are to stupid to understand what im typing now go troll somewhere else you pathetic piece of dog shit kthnxs and next time mind your business with comments that dont concern you

  • I want to throw this out, but one thing that has been not mentioned in the video is the correct torque specs! It's so important. Without it you may strip the bolt and or have one fall out cause of improper torquing.

  • Hi, I'm doing my civic timing belt now, this video help me a lot. I have a question. When you set the tension, you hold the cam gear and turn the crank gear a little bit. Does that make the timing out. I tried the same way to set the tension but the timing marks do not line up anymore. If you can explane a little bit more about setting the tension will be great. Thanks. Cheers!!

  • That last step where you slightly turned the crank to tighten the tension pulley, what was that for and can you explain it a little bit more easier.

  • eric deveria mandar um motor pra min no brazil

    civic 98

  • waterpump capscrew's torque ??

    crank shaft pully bolt torque ??

    and

    tentioner bolt torque ??

    none of the this was mentioned in your vid... other then that, very helpfull..

    was not mentioned in video

  • love your vids eric.My 94 del sol...I have to put #1 spark plug wire on The 4th cyl.For it to run.Dist wont go in due to the offset plug that goes into the cam .Can i turn it 180 degrees to make it work on the right cyl.Also I bridge the connector under the dash and it reads about 35 degrees below tdc.Do i time the cam on the crank tdc or the 16 degree mark?With the connector bridged i also get a code 43.Does this need to be cleared before i try to time it? Thanks for your help eric.

  • You made that look way too easy!

  • my ipod went off right after yours did in the video thats weird!

  • One last thing... New (stat,crank/cam seals,valve cover gasket set,tbelt,water pump,alternator belt) ...tensioner is not new but works perfect...

  • It's at about 5degrees instead of 16.

  • I have all the marks lined up... Jump.the service connector... Start the engine... And.check.the timing immediatley... The red line is almost on the mark.... I have to advance the dizzy all the way, then its almost right there but then the red line starts jumping left to right moving away then back towards the mark it finally steadys some but then its still off... What could cause.this ? Dizzy? Ecu? Please help I've seen this prob at least 20x on forums with no real solution.

  • any kseries timing change help vids? this is great.

  • @Solumic Not yet but that would be a good one.

  • why you get it on time before you take the belt out? i thought you were supposed to do it when your putting the belt in place.

  • @dasache It certainly makes it easier to get it in time when you install the new belt if it's in time to start with.

  • Very nice video very very imformative and iv been struggling with the d15b7 cam timing for a few days got it close but dizzy has to be turned all the way towards from of car just to run.. It dont run the best but it runs alot better than b4. Do you think ima tooth off and would i be a tooth of towards intake or exhaust Its a SOHC just idk if i need to turn it left or right to get my tooth back.. Thanks for video DID help unlike others who give u a stupid picture and say do it like this lol

  • @xtreamdreams Without looking at the marks for myself it's impossible to say, check the marks and make sure it's lined up it's really the only way to be sure. Once you have everything set where you think it needs to go and you set tension try rotating the engine over by hand to turn it 2 revolutions to check the alignment of the marks again.

  • I'm putting a new timing belt on my 92 Civic LX, and for the life of me, I can't stop the crankshaft pulley from moving when I pull the timing belt onto the camshaft pulley, making the timing off a tooth. How can I stop this from happening? Does it even matter, since it's in the correct tooth before I pull the belt onto the camshaft pulley? I'm really about to start throwing things. HELP!

  • @Zubirrex Yea, move the cam with a wrench to meet the belt rather than trying to move the belt to go onto the cam sprocket, at least that's what I do. Good luck.

  • @EricTheCarGuy I figured out what I was doing wrong. I wasn't taking the spring off of the tensioner before threading the belt onto the various sprockets (pulleys.) Although it was a bitch getting the spring back onto the peg with needle nose pliers, the rest lined up right.

  • THANK YOU!!!! It was really hard to find a video that gives such good instructions. no one ever shows of how they actually put the timing belt on and tension it.... They just tell u how to do it, you are the only one...

  • @Specialized1993 I'm glad the info helped, thanks for the comment.

  • Hey Eric, i just wanted to let you know how much i appreciate this video and the engine removal on the civic, i recently blew a connecting rod in my 98 EX and used the video as a guide more or less to do the engine removal. I am mechnically savvy but never removed an engine, so i gave it a shot, it is currently out of the car and things went SMOOTH, so i appreciate the time you took to do this!

  • @Drkvampire2001 I'm very happy to hear the video helped you do that job, it's always great to hear when my work actually helps people, thank you.

  • @EricTheCarGuy Well, just finished up the engine today, it starts and runs nice, sounds like the timing might be out( I dont have a light and putting the old distributor to the new engine..not sure if i nailed it or not) had a bit of knock sounded like Intake? found the cruise control vacume line had come disconnected but all seems good! thanks again for the videos i would NOT have attempted this without youre videos!

  • Hi Eric, how much you think it's fair to pay for someone to do this for me? It's a Honda Civic 2001 EX with 110,000 miles on it.

  • @DayDr3amingBy I don't discuss pricing sorry.

  • "Re-inserting my deep stick". That's what she said...

  • @DayDr3amingBy That is a she-male.....RUN

  • On my 1991 Civic the heater blower only works on 3 and 4.. 1 and 2 don't work. What could be the reason for this? Someone said there is a resistor for 1 and 2 that might have blown.. any ideas?

  • @Gruxxan I would also be looking at the resistor first.

  • @EricTheCarGuy Aha! thats great, thanks.. but.. umm.. where would I look to find the resistor?

  • @EricTheCarGuy Hey, I just found it, thanks for your help though.. cheers

  • @Gruxxan Yep, behind the glovebox. Thanks for the comment.

  • thanks eric, saved me alot of effin around, and even gained some experience, keep em comin man

  • @bojo101 Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.

  • Many thanks for your time and effort in making this video and have it uploaded here on youtube. It really helped me (and many others) a lot and saved me a lot of money.

  • @akosik4lbu THAT is my mission in life. Thanks very much for your comment.

  • When I re-installed my water pump on my civic, I tightened everything down, but, I didn't want it to come loose, so I made sure the bolts were snug... That 1/8th of a turn was all it took to break the bolt. My day went from good to cocaine withdrawal low in a matter of seconds. I spent days trying to get that bolt out of there. 200 dollars later I had a shop tell me it was holding pressure fine without the bolt. Thus, It's important to follow torque specs for small critical bolts!! Air = bad

  • @jpmc271 Experience helps here too as I'm sure that torque wrench or not you won't repeat the same mistake again. BTW I've used air tools for years doing this job without incident, it's all about practice I suppose. Thanks for the comment.

  • welll you did show us how tight the tension was , but it wasnt to clear.

  • you would be a huge help to me if you showed us by pushing the belt down how tight it was on. you really didnt do it in this video! can you show us? would be of help. btw i am the one who emaield you.

  • @adidas6804 I can't go back and reshoot the video sorry but you want it to be fairly tight.

  • @EricTheCarGuy

    that is true, next time you do a timing belt can you show us a video of the tension tightness just by pushing on the belt? youtube really lacks videos like this. You'd be one of this first.

  • @adidas6804 I have in the full length versions of the videos that I have for sale on my website. I haven't had time to edit the Civic video yet but when I do it does have the procedure on it.

  • @adidas6804 I have in the full length versions of the videos that I have for sale on my website. I haven't had time to edit the Civic video yet but when I do it does have the procedure on it.

  • @EricTheCarGuy

    you basically align the cam and crank, put the belt on, had a friend hold resistance on the camshaft/belt while i turned the crankshaft counter clock wise about 3 teeth on the camshaft, all this while the tensor was lose. then i tightened down the tensioner.. every once and a while i check the tension on my belt (top cover is off). And i notice slightly different tensions on the timing belt based on the position the motor is.(belt a bit tighter if on way to tdc)Is this normal?

  • @adidas6804 Perfectly normal, the reason for it is that the cam has different loading forces on it based on the position of the cam itself because the valve springs tend to push it in the opposite direction depending on the cam position.

  • @EricTheCarGuy

    kk cool ty for the help. I m attempting a d16y8 bottom and head rebuild soon. You ever do an engine rebuild from top to bottom. Would love to see a video on this from you.

  • @adidas6804 I have but it's been a while, it's actually much more cost effective to replace an engine than it is to rebuild it in my experience.

  • in the manual it states to spin the engine 5-6 times and set back TDC and check marks...thanks for these videos eric,,,,congrats on the new shop....stay dirty

  • @hondaslave I think I mentioned spinning it all the way round and rechecking the marks but if not nice catch. Thanks for the comment.

  • quick question...i have a f23 and when i set the tension for tb, dealer manual states move camshaft 3 teeth, loosen adjuster nut then retighten...do i move the crankshaft bolt to move camshaft 3 teeth, or just move camshaft?...also should i pull up on the belt to move the tensioner then set on camshaft sproket like you did on this engine?

  • @hondaslave I've done these for years the way I show in this video without incident, my methods are based off of the manuals procedure and some things I've picked up along the way. I'm sure if you do it the way I show in this video you will be fine.

  • Comment removed

  • Once u got the belt off it couldn't go out of timing right? Unless you turn the crankshaft or the cams separately?

  • @jun19020987 It shouldn't unless you move the cam or crank as you suggest, it's not a big deal if they do get a little out of time however as you can move them back into position before you install the belt.

  • @EricTheCarGuy HI Eric thanks for the reply. I have a d16z6 the one I want to change the belt for, but my cam seal is leaking so getting a little out of time worries me. Do you have any suggestion how to keep it as precise as it suppose to?

  • @jun19020987 I normally break the bolt loose before I even take the belt off, this will ensure that you stay in time when you remove the sprocket.

  • Hi Eric,

    Superb video as always.

    Just 1 minor point which could mislead regular Saturday Shade Tree Mechanic (SSTM) like me.

    Saying Tension Side and Slack Side without first pointing the boundary of the TS&SS n which side is which, I must watch the clip 3+ times to be certain that the Slack Side u're saying actually is the side contains the Tensioner, while the Tension Side does not. And the boundary is the Imaginary Line defined by the Camshaft center and the Crankshaft center.

  • @ritual45man Interesting point, thanks for the observation.

  • Your Vids are the best thanks alot, you must have alot of patients very well explained

    A*

    all the best

    Phil. 

  • @MrDookie2011 Some days are harder than others. Thanks for the comment.

  • Hi Eric, I want to change the timing belt on my 1993 Acura Legend. I have a couple of questions...do you recommmend that I also change the water pump??since im doing the timing belt. Also I saw that they sell " timing belt kits" that come with timing belt, tensioner etc. Does the tensioner also need to be replaced when the timing belt gets changed?? Thank You!!!!!

  • @fastjdm Replace the water pump, CHECK the tensioner by spinning it and listening for noise, I don't suspect your going to find any so I would not buy it unless you need it.

  • @EricTheCarGuy

    Thanks a Million Eric! :)

  • @fastjdm Your welcome, good luck.

  • Hi Eric, Please can you make a video on setting up the timing marks for example if you were removing the head? If you could also include the crank locking tools etc.

    Before removing the head can you set the crank to tdc and just line it up afterwards on the cam ?

  • @MrDookie2011 Yea that's pretty much it, just line the marks up before you remove the head and the belt, remove the head and after replacement line the marks up again and you should be good.

  • I just replaced the timing belt on my 1998 Honda accord and for some reason I get a wining noise when I rev the engine... Any idea what that could be?

  • @Cloud2fou5 Your belt tension may be too tight or something may not be aligned correctly, I recommend you go back and check your work.

  • oh how i wish i8 had seen this video two days ago

    haha well done

  • In the Haynes Manuel, they say to never turn the crank clockwise, whats your though on this?

  • @zbenes6741 You turn the oppiasite direction. In this case on a D motor, clockwise because it runs counter clockwise. Only honda motors that turn clockwise: C, F20C, F23C, J, K, L, and R motors.

  • @zbenes6741 This engine rotates counterclockwise so you don't want to turn it clockwise. In short you want to avoid turning an engine in the opposite direction of it's rotation.

  • @EricTheCarGuy You said not to turn it clockwise but between 1:09 and 1:26 when you were trying to line up the timing marks you were turning it clockwise. Should I follow what you did or should I turn the other way? By the way, this tutorial is by far the most detailed one I've ever seen. Thanks, Eric!

  • I noticed you did not tighten the tensioner bolt. Do you put the belt on and tighten that bolt to whatever tq spec? (31 ft lbs.?) and then it's tensioned for good?

  • @zeppelin264 I did tighten the bolt after setting the tension through the access hole in the timing cover and yes once you lock it down it's in that spot for good.

  • i just replace timing belt on a 97 civic the timing belt is tight at tdc but if i turn motor over by hand it loosens up a lot but when i get it back to tdc its tight again is this normal

  • @MrDaverouse Sounds like you don't have the belt tension right, you might try re-tensioning the belt just to be on the safe side.

  • After watching your video, I'm brave enough to tried changing my timing belt, water pump and the three belts with a lot of praying. Took me 12hrs. to complete it. However, I'm confused about which line to line up the crankshaft. There are three red lines next to each other and one white line. Right now with the use of the timing light, the center red line is lining up with the arrow and it starting just fine. Is this where it should be or line it up with the white line instead? Thanks.

  • @RatanakTevy The white mark off by itself is TDC, the 3 marks you mention represent 16º BTDC and 2º before and 2º after, the center mark is the 16º. You should not have to reset ignition timing however after doing the job, in fact it should go back to spec 16º BTDC after you do the belt job.

  • thanks for your help!!!your the best in honda.......

  • @TheIVAN6683 Your very welcome, thanks for the comment.

  • i'm missing my timing belt cover on my 92 honda civic any idea where can i found one?

  • @TheIVAN6683 Salvage yard or dealer are the first things that come to mind. You might want to check some online sources as well.

  • what can happen if the timing belt was put on back real tight?

  • @TheIVAN6683 Usually noise from the idler and premature wear on the bearings.

  • big question about the damn crank pulley bolt..since has driving me crazy, i do have a honda civic 2002 and cant loose the bolt , like you said in the video its hell, and since i cant get the special tool to hold it, any ways,it looks like that bolt turns the opposite direction of regular bolts. i mean to loose it you have to turn it clock wise am i right? and that is my question, since i d been trying hard core the regular way to loose it..

  • @Migplease Not true, the bolt spins in the normal direction so don't turn it clockwise to loosen it. The tool is available on Amazon for a very reasonable price BTW and I strongly recommend you use it.

  • yeah I heard civic timing belts were hell. now that ive seen it, i can confirm it lol

  • @drsushimon Personally I think they are quite easy compared to some, in fact I can have one done in a little over an hour in the car, perhaps faster if I'm in the right mood. It is a matter of perception I suppose. Thanks for the comment.

  • Hey Eric, really helpful video. Just wondering if this is similar to the F-series engine, and if so, would you have to do anything with the engine mount on that side on the older CB7 Accord?

  • @markkjay Yes you need to support the engine and remove the mount to install the timing belt on both this and the F series. I did a video on the F series timing belt, it's a fastener by fastener account of the procedure, it's available on the 'FixIt' page of my website, there is a link in the description.

  • dude how long does it take when the motor is in the car? also do you recommend replacing the cam sensor while i am doing this? and how much torque does the impact gun need to have to remove the crank bolt?

  • @mirc225 I can do it in about an hour on the car. I don't recommend replacing the cam sensor as they don't normally go bad. I really can't say how much torque but having the crank removal tool is your best bet.

  • @mirc225 Yeah dude, get the bolt removal tool $40 including shipping. I wasted 3 days trying 4 different impact guns and any trick you could find on the internet and nothing worked except that tool.

    Also get yourself some 1/2" black extensions and do not use the 3/8, they WILL break and potentially hurt you. I broke 3 of them bitches (one of them in my hand, and that shit hurt like hell)

    Do yourself a favor and get the tool. Unless you have like a 1000ftlb air gun and heavy duty compressor.

  • @cdog9991 lol i just did the timing belt recently and funny you should mention breaking 3/8 breaker bars breaking cause i broke one!! haha but luckily i rented the tool but im going to buy it and thanks for the really great info i appreciate it greatly!

  • @mirc225 Sorry to hear about that but it sounds like you got it worked out, thanks for the comment.

  • @EricTheCarGuy yea i did and i adjusted the valves but now they sound louder its weird but there is more power and i have more mpg!! so thats good lol thanks for everything man i love your channel!

  • ive got an 84 ford 2.3 and i need to know how to reset the timing belt because it skipped, but i dont know what way the marks need to point, theres a notch on the crank pulley, and an arrow on the cam, and an arrow on the distributor cam, do you know what way these need to point? thanks

  • @offroadingmachine007 The best thing to do is check the service manual but you may be able to find some pics of how that is suppose to line up on the internet somewhere. To be honest I don't know for sure myself. Good luck.

  • @EricTheCarGuy Ok, the internet seems useless cause I cant find anything, so I guess I will have to buy a service/repair manual. Thanks!

  • @offroadingmachine007 I'm surprised by that, you might see if you can find a forum on your particular vehicle as they often have that information somewhere posted on the forum.

  • @EricTheCarGuy I know, the closest thing I could find was a diagram, but it failed to mention what way the marks should point.

  • hi eric your video was very informative! i have a couple of questions the first would be did you say that you can replace the timing belt with the engine still in? and if so what would the steps be? i understand that it would be alot easier to do outside of the car but i am strapped for cash and need to get this done asap!!!! thanks!!

  • @214jdizzle 488 characters is not enough for that sorry but other than what you see in the video it's really a matter of getting the accessory belts off and dealing with the space constraints which really aren't that bad. I hope to do a more detailed video at some point in the future though.

  • Oh, by the way, it's a 98 Honda civic.

  • Hey Eric. First of all, I just wanted to say that your videos are extremely informative and entertaining. Thanks for all that you do. You've taught me a lot! My timing belt was recently replaced by a local mechanic. I noticed that the belt is now rubbing against the inside, upper cover. The upper lip of the cover is obviously sticking out from under the valve cover. What happened?

  • @grohlisgr8 Sounds like your guy didn't take a whole lot of time to do the job right to be honest, perhaps didn't even take the valve cover off to remove the upper cover.

  • GOOD RULE OF THUMB FOR REMAN ENGINE. ALAWYS CHANGE YOUR TIMING BELT IF IT HAS ONE.

  • another thing you don't have to remove the engine oil dip stick at all. You just unbolt all the bottom 10MM bolts on the cover and pull the cover forward. because the engine oil dip stick is pointing away from the cover. Did I hear you say: YOU DON'T HAVE A TON OF ROOM IN A CIVIC. I have tons of room in my 2002 Honda Civic and I took out my water pump while its on the engine and change the timing belt while its in the car too.

  • @MileyCyrus192 I might disagree on that one because the dipstick is held in by the lower cover on this model, I find that removing it makes life a lot easier. I think you misunderstood my comment, with the engine out of any car there is tons of room compared to in the car.

  • @EricTheCarGuy True certain car have tons of room.. unless these crazy people add performance parts in their car they have no room at all. I see people with turbo in their civic and have very little room.

  • I seen you remove the valve cover to get to the upper shrouder of the water pump and timing belt cover. I did a head gasket change in 2010 I did have to remove everything on the upper to change the head gasket. But when I drove it around for awhile until timing belt or water pump need changing I just left the valve cover on. Everyone have their own ways of repair something.

  • This has noting to do with this video. I have seen you use a jumper wire to get your codes on a CEL. Where did you get the female clip with the jumper wire or how did you make it. Looks more professional then using a paper clip.

  • @poopalone I got it off of an old wiring harness, can't remember what the connector went to though I've had that tool for a while in fact it looks exactly like the one that Honda has.

  • @EricTheCarGuy Can you remember if it may be in the engine compartment or a wireing harness from under the dash? I happen to be in the junk yard a lot since im lookin to do a non v-tec to v-tec swap so ill keep an eye out for it. Also what are your thoughts on that? Takin a 92-95 D15b7 block and putting a D16z6 head on there and swapin to a p28 ecu for v-tec. I hear many poeple doing it. They call it a Mini me swap. But never hear anything afterwards. Is it safe?

  • @poopalone I honestly don't remember. My opinion on your swap is that if you want a fast car start with a fast car and make it faster, don't make a slow car fast because by the time your done you would have spent a lot more in the process. If you love the car however then have fun.

  • @EricTheCarGuy I have a 91 twin turbo 300zx so im good on the fast car part. haha =) just looking for a little extra power for passing and what not. plus i can get all that i need for roughly around 75 bucks if i pull it from an auto recycling center. Thanks though. Keep up the great videos.

  • Nice to see it happen out of the car, you always do a great job with your vids

  • @groutaone Thank you for that! I really enjoy your videos as well when I get the time to watch them, these days I'm so busy keeping up with comments I barely have time to watch anything anymore.

  • Oh no I makes my engines blows UPS LOLS JK NOW TIME TO GO CHANG MY TIE RODS ON MY 98 CHEVY PICK UP TRUCK

  • almost makes taking the engine out of the car worth doing.

  • @akilli8989 Fun for the whole family.

  • I have a civic and i have noticed a clunking noise from the front wheels when turning left or right ,any ideas thanks

  • @benny5825 I would check the axles as they are the most common cause of that noise in my experience.

  • @EricTheCarGuy  Its front wheel drive what axle do you mean,?

  • @benny5825 The ones that turn the front wheels. If you turn left and hear the noise it's usually the right axle and the opposite is true for the other side.

  • @EricTheCarGuy Do you mean the drive shafts ,do you have a video about them cheers.

  • @benny5825 Yes and yes.

  • @EricTheCarGuy Its front wheel drive what axle do you mean,? I only get the noise from the front wheels when turning.

  • omg i can't believe i almost missed this damn new youtube view

    damn erick

  • omg i can't believe i almost missed this damn new youtube view

  • thanks for the help ill try it this weekend hopefully not catching my car on fire...

  • @murphythegolfer Yea, don't do that.

  • Eric, if it's a replacement engine why was the timing belt swapped? Was it a junkyard engine?

  • @alfonso2501 Yes it was a salvage engine and not rebuilt so doing the tbelt and water pump was easier to do now than later. Thanks for the comment.

  • @EricTheCarGuy Good preventative maintenance then.

  • the crank pulley bolt is the hardest part. and not all pulleys have the hex shape inside to hold it still. thats only on the newer d series engines. 92-95 engines have lil holes all around the outside of the pulley. i fabbed myself a tool to fit these holes

  • @SHANGRALAAAA17 Good point, thanks for the tip.

  • I personally think your videos are a lot more interesting without a voice over.

  • @choidj Noted,  thanks for the comment.

  • do you reccomend a coolant flush or trans flush or differental flush, i have heard mixed reviews with this. my trans fluid is nice and pink particle free. i also think since my car is 10 years old the book says to change thin timing belt at 100,000 miles should i get it done sooner and should i get cam gears replaced? its a really nice truck and i just want it to last forever, or until i can afford a nissan 370z. ps im only 16.

  • @murphythegolfer You didn't mention the type of car but if you follow the service manual recommendations you can't go wrong. There really is no such thing as a 'differential flush' you just change the fluid there and to be honest if you change the fluids regularly flushing really isn't necessary. Thanks for the comment.

  • Hey Eric i have a 2002 nissan frontier and it starts up fine when cold and runs great, but once warm if i try to restart it it tales longer to start than i would like. i used injector cleaner, and did a power balance test and the cleaner didnt work and the power balance ws fine, it only has 40,000 miles engine is perfect nice and golden brown under the oil cap, use only synthetic oil every 4,000 miles any suggestions. im going to replace the cap and rotor, and wires and plugs do u reccomend this

  • @murphythegolfer It sounds like a mixture problem so I don't think the tune up will help but it can't hurt. Perhaps check the fuel pressure during the time it's acting up as you may have a fuel pressure regulator problem. Probably not a bad idea to check for vacuum leaks either just in case.

  • @EricTheCarGuy Good video. I just did the same thing the other day on a friends car. The difference was that his belt snapped which required new valves. By the time the math was done for shop time - it was easier for him to just chance it buying another head from a scrapyard. We actually found a low mileage side swiped car with green coolant and no signs of overheat. I'm a big fan of keeping head with block unless both are machined true but - he needed transporation. So far it's all good.

  • @ProjectCarTV You can never argue with success as there is more than one way to get to grandmas house. Thanks for the comment.

  • @EricTheCarGuy Have you ever seen some of the stuff Bisi Ezerioha has done with sohc Honda engines? He's gone to Grandmas house, picked up your Aunt, dropped off the dry cleaning, drove Gramps to shuffleboard, and came back with a 500hp non turbo 1320 screamer. He's done things for sohc Honda that nobody ever thought could be done.

    BisiMoto - GOOD STUFF.

  • Why don`t you do any videos on fords

  • @Carfixing101 Aaaaa, have you seen the video I did on my Galixie?

  • Lots to digest in there. VRS or Hall Effect (CKP)? That was hella fast too! How long did it take and what's the Flate Rate hours? I didn't see you line up the Crank timing mark, do you know a trick that I don't? Reviewing the video, i noticed you lifting the block with a pry bar. Won't that scratch the pan gasket area? You should use Red Permatex to put the dipstick tube back in:) Of course the pump runs off the timing belt! Stupid engineers. "Reinserting my dipstick"? What the hell?

  • @JTheGuitarPlayer I did line up the crank but just didn't highlight it in the video. I wasn't worried about scratching the oil pan it's aluminum. NEVER put anything on the dipstick 'o' ring, they are hard enough to get out as it is. Thanks for the comment.

  • Hey eric I changed those rotors on my car and that knocking went away thank you so much your the best I wish I could make it up to you somehow im just trying to make this car safe so I can hand it down to my son once again thank you

  • @SingleCamFTW No worries, I'm just happy to help. Thanks for the update and the great comment.

  • Great Video Eric. That was a interesting way of setting the timing belt tensioner. That was the first time I've ever seen that done before. I definitely agree with you it's way easier outside the car than in it.I also agree with you that I would have changed both the timing belt and the water pump before installing the new engine.It's just smart to do a little preventive maintaince now rather than a month after the engine was installed and have to tear it apart just to put it in later.good job!

  • @tinydx95t2 Thanks for the great comment, it's nice when people are on the same page, thanks.

  • how heavy is that engine? looks like someone can do bicep curls with them.

  • @170324341a Actually I have. It migh