Wool combing

[Spinmamma]

Thank you so much. There is a lot of disagreement out there about the advisability of combing Shetland wool and I am so pleased to find your very clear video and even more clear opinion about combing Shetland wool.

[MartinaWeise]

It is a very good description, congratulations.

[VidBint]

Is there a particular reason that you spin from the butt-end rather than from the tips or is it just personal preference?

[chicksinrubber]

Hya,

I spin from the butt because the scales on the fibre go from Butt to tip and I don't smooth down the yarn as I spin but I do as I ply. This means that the scales are roughed up as I ply so that it helps the singles to mesh to each other and gives a more coherent yarn instead of 2 singles that are just wrapped around each other. It is personal preference, I just find it works best for me.

[ScottfromTexas]

Interesting stuff.  Thanks.

[haleyshandmades]

Very nice video! I have some standard poodle hair that I cut off my poodle spring intending on spinning some yarn out of it. It's about 4 inches long. Do you think that it would be best to comb or card it? Should I mix in some Merino or other wool? And should I pick out the course guard hairs?

[chicksinrubber]

Hi Haley, I think it depends on how matted or not the hair is on how you would prep it, if it is fairly open I would tend to card it and take out guard hairs first, maybe blend with a little mohair or silk as it would strengthen without detracting, also the shrinkage rate would not be too different, if you blend with merino and then wash it you could find the merino shrinks more leaving you with a bit of boucle effect (which may be happy accident)

[haleyshandmades]

Thanks Sue! I'll see what there is in town and do some experimenting.

[EmmaHaldan]

Thanks so much! This explains everything I've been reading about and not getting! I'm a beginning spinner, using a high whorl drop spindle. In looking for some fairly long staple roving to practice a worsted draw, I was given three bags of Merino fleece. Now I have a clue of how not to ruin it! Thank you, thank you!

[chicksinrubber]

HI Emma, I would say if you are combing merino, and if it is well washed you will probably get some static problems, I use a very fine spray mister and spray the air above the fleece, if it is too wet it will stretch the wool and it will lose it's elasticity, some folks use water and oil mix, this is fine if you are planning to wash the yarn after spinning,

[EmmaHaldan]

Wow. I am beyond new at all of this, so this would be my first time washing the wool -- it's not dirty, but it is buggy. I was going to use the washer method, and dry in sun.... Then keep the fine muster handy. Am I in over my head?

[chicksinrubber]

Hi emma,

When you say Buggy, do you mean live or dead wildlife as in moth etc, if so I recommend you bag the fleece seal and deep freeze for a few days, this will kill larvae and adults. If it is vegetation and the fleece is long enough to allow and it is confined to the tips, you could cut the tips off, Ausie fleece is often dry and brittle at the tips anyway and would come off in the combing. What is muster?

[EmmaHaldan]

A typo for Mister

[chicksinrubber]

If fleece is going to felt it will do so most at the butt or cut end, so the smaller the bunches the less likely it is. If you take a large chunk of fleece and wash it like that it is more likely to felt together and if washed loose in a washer and not contained in a net bag you are more likely to lose staple formation which makes combing harder. I have tried many ways to cut down on the time for washing, most end up with more wasteage.

[EmmaHaldan]

So, don't do the washer stuff? Do it by hand, bending over the tub?

And the bugs are dead. This is North Texas Merino from wethers, late cut, so it's long.

[chicksinrubber]

Personally I would do it by hand, if you have lots of it, try some in a stocking in the washer, Separate the locks and lay in stocking all facing same way up, then knot the stocking tightly each end of the staples this way it keeps them from moving around too much. Worth a try, depends on your washer if it draws cold water then hot which is not so good, less agitation is good, but you need really hot water to clean wax out properly.

[chicksinrubber]

would recommend anyway in most cases, unless you are spinning super super fine, then the tangles are not worth it, I would not oil and then wash after knitting.

[ADHUK]

Hi Sue,

That's the best clip of combing on hand combs I've seen - thanks!

I'm glad you agree that it spins best from the butt end.

Amanda

[chicksinrubber]

Thanks Amanda, I have spun from the butt end for years now and find this works best particularly as when I ply I smooth the fibres which helps to guide the twist and also roughs up the scales to mesh the singles better.

Regards

Sue

[joinfibers]

Sue, Your combing video made it so easy to work with the wool that I have already spun half of the amount that I had. I am now going to comb the second half and will find myself out of wool to comb and spin in a day's time. I am still working on getting the twist just right, but have only spun three pieces on a hand spindle, each is longer than 30 yards. When I get it right, I will try and make something, but right now, practice, practice, practice.

Thank you,

Jo

[xXGhostOfWarXx]

Sue, I tried my combs this morning and it was a breeze. I was able to make a rove off of it that was a much longer rove than I had been able to do before. It was also all one size and to me looked perfect. Thanks to your video, I do believe that I will be able to spin the wool that I have on hand by this Christmas. Thank you very much.

Jo

[chicksinrubber]

so glad you have found combing easier, I use mine such a lot with washed fleece, I use mainly merino crosses so they are ideal for it. I am carding blue/red/green/purple merino tops with silk so that the singles yarn knits into stripes for a shrug. Plan A is in my head and so far is working, just hope I don't have to resort to plans B,C,D etc!

[xXGhostOfWarXx]

Sorry, I ment the pulling of the wool off of the comb without using a ditz. I am working with the wool in a small amount to see if I want to work with it, and do not want to put too much into it. You have shown me that it is not necessary to have a ditz. I will keep you informed on how it goes. Thank you for the information you are sharing with us beginners.

Jo

[xXGhostOfWarXx]

I have recently come to the world of raw wool and have been enjoying working with it. I now have a set of wool combs that my father made for me and I can get more wool combed. Everytime that I have a question about combing the wool, I come to your video. It has so many helpful hints for the beginner. And the work with the ditz is a big help too. I will be giving it all a try Monday morning and I am sure that it will all work out just fine.

Thank you,

Jo

[Lyfml]

Thank you so much for this. One view and I finally got it. Actually, I think was the commentary that helped the most. I particularly like that you show how to draw the wool off without a diz (I can never find the damn thing), and I realize now that I don't have to comb until the wool is perfect, because I can stop drawing when I reach the nubby bits.

[TheAgedCat]

Excellent demo, Sue! Really helpful.

Question: Why combing, rather than carding? Has it to do with fiber length you have to work with?

[chicksinrubber]

I normally choose combing for wool which has well defined locks, where the locks are longer than the carders are wide and for these mini combs not too long and cotted(matted). They are ideal for merino and merino cross fleece but not really suitable for things like Leicester long wool or Wensleydale.The great thing about combing is it takes off any brittle tips, second cuts etc and so reduces pilling.

Regards

Sue

[erahardjo]

Thank you for the wonderful demonstration

[chicksinrubber]

Hi Dave,

thanks for the comment.

Regards

Sue

[dave71us]

brilliant!

thank you very much.