@EricTheCarGuy ok thanks, sorry i didn't mean with the shoes off, i meant the drum. they were pretty cheap so i replaced them in the end anyway. many thanks though, keep up the good work.
@Mastikno1 Probably not, that's not a valid test, just verify that both pistons can move by pushing them inward, you run the risk of popping the pistons out doing it the way you describe.
I saw this after changing my moms front discs and pads and I just drove it straight over to my mechanic and had a burger and a beer at the diner down the street $125 well spent
Ok it seems I forgot to bleed the master cylinder...now my brakes are working but only 40%...now I still have to press the pedal to the floor and the brake light comes on....the fluid is topped off...Is it possible I may need a Power brake booster??? And thanks for the first reply
@314LifeProductions Hard to say since I'm not sure what your working on but it could be the proportioning valve needs to be reset and bled properly. Some systems require special bleeding procedures check the service manual for those.
@314LifeProductions I just read your other comment about the type of car you have, I do believe you need a special tool to hold the prop valve in place when you bleed the brakes.
I have a 72 Buick Skylark...Recently the brakes completely stopped working. It seemed like I had air in the brakeline, so I bleed them twice. Still no brakes. I changed the master cylinder. . I bleed the brakes a third time but this time I just opened the bleeder screw without apply the brake pedal. I noticed that when the brake is applied, the shoes press towards the drum but they do no return to the original position...What could be wrong? plz help I can't afford to take it to a shop...
@314LifeProductions I don't think the brake return is your problem, you might want to look for leaks in the system particularly the wheel cylinders first. I would say it could be an adjustment issue but the fact that it happened suddenly really doesn't fit with that. Take a good look at the entire system to see what you can find. Good luck.
Cool video thanks i have a 2007 cobalt and one of my rear breaks makes a squeaking sound whenever i let off the breaks no perfomance issues as of yet but its one of those annoying things. Would you suggest getting entirely new rear drum breaks or is there something i can apply to it to make it go away?
@derkgonewild I would remove the drums and inspect the brakes to see if there was anything abnormal first, I would not replace them unless I found a problem. You might consider lightly sanding the friction material before you install the drum again also. Make sure they are properly adjusted as well, if they are too tight they may overheat and cause noise. Good luck.
@TVFOGGED Sort of, I have a video on how to remove a wheel bearing from an axle shaft. If you goto my website all my videos are categorized by system and you can easily find one that you might be looking for.
Hello, I have replaced my drums and shoes and reinstalled everything back correctly. It worked wonderfully for 1st week. However, it started clicking as I press on the break, "Click, click, click ..." As I let the break off, clicking stops. Please give me your suggestion as to what may be wrong? THANK YOU!!!
I'd like to say that this video helped me put mine back together (there's this loose spring that I can't find a home for...), but it didn't. However, now I understand drum brakes a bit better. Great vid, nonetheless!
This was pretty awesome! Very thorough & easy to follow along. I can't even figure out my car jack, but I could change a drum brake now. Yea, OK so maybe not, but I can follow along much better now. Thank You!
First, I want to say thank you for your videos! :D
However, I did stumble into a bit of a problem. I tried taking my drum off just to look at the assembly to get an idea with what I'd have to work with. It didn't go so smoothly. I couldn't take the drum off using the threaded hole method and ended up in messing up the assembly a bit.
I don't know if you mentioned this, but should you have the parking brake disengaged before you try to take the drum off? After I did that, the drum came off lolz
@smash4444 Having been a mechanic for the past 15 years I didn't think to mention that but yes, it is imperative that you release the parking brake before you attempt to remove the drum. I consider not mentioning this an oversight on my part sorry.
Thanks for the video! I have seen couple of your videos, like the quick throttle cleaning video, that was magical. You're the best. I just subscribed! :) Keep up the good work!
And when you want to access the parking brake adjuster you just remove the drum. I have seen videos where they only remove the wheel to access the adjuster with a flat head screwdriver vehicles with drum in hat. But I don't get that, they have to push through the big hole on the hub to access the adjuster and it's covered by the brake disc. How is that possible?...
Removing drum brakes seem to be easier than removing disc brakes. I mean you have to support the caliper on disc brakes when you remove them, can't just let them hang there. You don't have that issue with drum brakes.
Is there nothing that holds the drum to the hub? If it's supposedly not stuck so you don't have to bang it with a hammer it will normally come right off when you remove the wheel, right? I am thinking in terms of disc brakes where you have a small hex socket (Allen) screw that holds the disc in place on the hub.
This video helped a lot with understanding the basic concept of drum brakes, this is especially helpful because I am a student at an auto diesel college and I am having a test over brakes tomorrow! Thanks!
hey dude thanks for your video! I have a quick question though, on my '01 mazda protege I can't get the drum off --- No matter how big a hammer I use... is it true you help it along with an 8mm bolt or screw... I read it on the internet so I think its true
@DanielRemains I'm pretty sure that's a non-servo style which would adjust with the hand brake. To be honest however it's not common for those to work as they should so it's not a bad idea to clean and readjust them manually from time to time.
@EricTheCarGuy Yeah I did it like 4 times this week lol having hard time to adjust them just perfect. The handbrake in the car is tight and the brakes aswell but the handbrake still doesn't lock the wheels like it should. Thanks for the reply man! Oh and today I checked that little adjuster plate that is supposed to make the adjuster wheel turn but instead of going up it goes to the left which doesn't help for s**t LOL.
@DanielRemains Self adjusters are a joke to be honest that's why it's good to do them manually once in a while. It's actually common for the brake not to hold if the shoes are new they kind of need to seat in first as new shoes sometimes don't make complete contact inside the drum, think oval inside of a circle. As for tips on adjusting you might want to check out some of the videos I did on drum brake servicing where I not only show what parts to lubricate but how to adjust.
yeah.. you rock.. it helped me a lot... i cant believe my self... being a mechanic LOL... while being a nurse... your vid really help me out... thanx a lot...
hey eric... good day dude... great tips out there... do you have a clip on how to adjust park brake (handbrake) coz mine is lose and it doesn't have any grip at all... pls help me...
@duhkify I recommend watching one of the drum brake replacement videos to see how to adjust the rear brakes. When adjusting a parking brake you start by adjusting at the wheels and if you still need more adjustment you then adjust the cable tension. You do not want to adjust the cable tension first as it will make it difficult to install new shoes if you have to at some point.
@goodandchew10 I don't have a video on bleeding at this time sorry but the best way is to have 2 people, one in the car working the brake and the other outside working the brake bleeders. Use this order LF, RR, RF, LR to be most effective. Have the person in the car push the pedal down while you open the valve, before the let off the brake pedal close the valve, do this till you don't see any air come out.
Ok, I got my brakes fixed well kinda my calipers slides back and forth and the brake pads rub on the rotor i tightened the caliper bolts as tight as i could get them. Trying to think whats causing this. why would a brake pad rub against a rotor?
@goodandchew10 Brake pads will rub against the rotor normally, if it's not causing the wheel to drag I would not worry about it. If it is locking up the wheel then you probably need a caliper or possibly a brake hose. BTW tightening caliper bolts really wont' do anything but make it harder to get it off in the future.
@eflynn162 I've seen them on 4 drum systems, the reason is that you want to front wheels to do most of the braking as this makes the braking more efficient.
If I have 4 wheel drum brakes and a single bowl master, can I add a dual bowl master and run a new set of lines? Do I need a equilizer block or just the lines. Thank you, Jim
@eflynn162 I'm not sure what the benefit would be of just installing a dual bowl master, these are referred to as "split diagonal" in that one chamber activates the RF and LR and the other the LF and RR, this is a safety feature that keeps you from loosing all of your brakes should there be some sort of failure. The "equalizer block" you refer to is actually the Proportioning Valve and helps proportion the braking force front and rear, normally 80% front and 20% rear.
The rusty, dusty condition of older brake systems make me nervous. I know rusty, dusty brake systems have been stopping cars and trucks for many years and will continue to do so, but how is it that in a 100 years of making this stuff, car manufactures can't build brake systems that don't look like a junk yard after a few weeks of wet weather? Ya, I know brakes systems need air and open space to help cool them, but come on how dirty does a guy's hands have to get?
@rlewis1946 Consider this, brakes turn speed into heat, your car is out in the elements, rain, dust, snow, ice, cold, and hot conditions. The metal in the brake system goes through a wide range of temperatures in a given day, month, or year, all of this will take it's toll on the metal causing it to rust as well as temper over time. Now consider there is only so much the engineers can spend on the metal they use for the brakes, now multiply that by the number of cars they need to put brakes on.
@EricTheCarGuy Point well taken! Frankly, I've been watching this set of videos over and over to have enough guts to pull off the back wheels of my 1998 Sienna van and just look at its drum brakes....much less work on then! Thanks for all your hard work and posting these videos. They're well done and as I've said before, I love those close-ups!! Have a good one!! Roy
@EricTheCarGuy I said your rear pads are not good anymore, close to 5mm, we throw them to trash and get new ones. other than that, the rest is alright
Also, How would i get the front brakes start to work the calipers work i feel them pressing on the pad but they are not pressing hard enough so whats going on here as well? i bled them as well. I changed the master cylinder out with a used one from the junk yard along with the brake booster. The front pads have ALOT of life left in them. I have a 1988 Dodge Dakota.
@goodandchew10 A used master cylinder is not a good idea in my opinion, it also sounds like you might benefit from bleeding the brakes, try this procedure, LF, RR, RF, LR. I also recommend using the tool I showed in the video to bleed with as you can see the air in the system if there is anything. Good luck.
Eric, I did everything you told me to do. Since I dont have an E-brake I did the reg. brake then bled the brakes. They worked for awhile but it wasnt for that long i took it on a 25 mile trip and they lost brake pressure. I had to fill the master cylinder up a lil bit i check to see if the lines were leaking they shouldnt of been bc i replaced them when i did the brakes. My ? is what is wrong here the master cylinder blew? or is it the rear drum shoes? Very concerned and starting to get irrated
@goodandchew10 Did you possibly let go of the brake pedal while the bleeding nipple was open? If so, this would of caused air to get in the brake line system witch would of caused your brakes to be spongy.
@bambuirvin Depends on what your reason is for removing the rust, if you want to paint them the best thing to do is sand blast, other than that your looking at a lot of hand sanding.
You seem to know your stuff man. but i got a question man i just took my truck 4 wheelin n now my drums make a sorta grinding noise on and off at different speeds but only when i accelerate. any ideas....? email my youtube back if ya want
Big thanks to you for giving the basics about drum type brakes. I fully understand its features and its functions. Though others wont appreciate it because of the new technologies but as beginners I do give a thumbs up.
Good video, I was so spoiled, I worked at Mercedes Benz of beverly hills for 2 years, and never touched drums, only a few times
At Wyotech, and now that I'm side while going to school I see drums and I think noooooooo, I miss all wheels having discs, sometimes two calipers per wheel.. Grr old design
thanks Eric, I would rather have a hard top, just think the convertable top takes away from the look of the cars lines, going to get hate mail for this comment.. lol... going to work on the brakes today, will take your advice, thanks Jeff
@StrainingDingelberry It could. It might also be groves worn into the backing plate, this is why I lubricate the bosses whenever I replace shoes. It's also a good idea to make sure you have the rubber plug installed in the backing plate to keep contaminants out.
thanks alot Eric, I will take your advice, after I get this thing going again I want to make a number of updates, we have owned this car 27 years now. I wish I could say something cool, like its an origianl z-28 or SS but its not, just a plane old Camaro that was once a 307 car with an ugly gold paint job.... lol. thanks again Jeff
@subron6er I had a neighbor with a car just like that, it was a convertible though, I'm not a fan of convertibles personally. You still have a better Camaro that I do. :)
thanks I have a 69 Camaro I am just starting to work on again after its been sitting the last 12 years. It has the original drum brakes on it, and right now the peddle goes to the floor, and the drives side front break is leaking fluid, trying to get some repair tips here before going it,,,, thanks Jeff J.
@subron6er First I will say I'm completely jealous of your car, for years I carried a pic of a 69 Z28 in my wallet. If it were me I would look into a front disc brake conversion and not even bother with the drums. If your are going to keep the drums the biggest tip I can give you is to make sure your brake adjustments on both front brakes are close or it will pull toward the side with the "tighter" adjustment when you brake.
I learned alot from these videos. Being that it was my first time doing rear brakes. I banged and banged the drum without any success. Then check youtube and found your video. I doubled checked my drum and found that it had threaded holes. It popped off no problem. Thanks
Do you have any shows dealing with a hydraulic clutch on common GM cars? My slave cylinder is acting strange, i know i have to over haul the engine to get to it, but i still would think its really cool to see how clutches work.
@cincityallstar I don't get too many GM's into the shop right now but I have plans to change that since so many of my viewers drive domestic cars. I have however shot a video on a clutch replacement that I hope to edit soon that will show how it works. As for your slave cylinder you don't need to overhaul the engine just remove the transmission, if there is a leak you may see the fluid getting low and possibly a trail of it between the engine and trans.
@murcielago122 You can do anything with enough money and time trust me. You will also need a new proportioning valve in addition the the brakes. You will also have to change what the brakes mount to depending on your set up.
I love your video's ! Oh sure, they're 'very' informative but it's not the info I'm interested in . . . I love to watch you and the way you explain all of this mechanical stuff. You're easy on the eyes and I'll be watching your Video's
Eric, I'm working on a 2006 Honda Civic 4door LX, and it has the drum brakes in the rear with those 2 holes for using bolts. Do you know what the size of the bolt is? And are you supposed to just keep threading it in until it pops? Or do you hit the bolts with a hammer?
@mrjost55 I think the bolts are 8X1.25, not sure though. Don't hit the bolts, just tighten. You can also hit the drum between the studs to pop it loose but be careful not to hit the studs.
So how long would you expect replacing the brake pads to take for a beginner? I've done disc brake pads before but never drum. Can you believe my mate was just quoted $500 to replace the rear brake pads on a 1991 ford laser thats only done 70,000km!
I'm gonna take the hub off and check remaining meat on the pads in the next couple of days and maybe replace them..
@rad886655 Depends on your skill level and more importantly your tools. With good tools and a moderate skill level I would say an hour or 2. Just work methodically and carefully and you should be fine. You can watch the videos I did on the procedure to get a more detailed view of how it is done.
@EricTheCarGuy Good day sir!! i tried to take off my drum brake to check my brake shoes but apparently the drum does not go off.what will i do do get it off?my car is mitsubishi lancer.there is a 2 hole in the drum.what is that for?your reply will be highly appreciated.thank you in advace..
@richardramoso You can use a little penetrating oil around the studs for starters. Next try hammering the outside of the drum between the studs like I showed in the drum brake video (I did another video showing how to do this job BTW). The little holes are places where you can thread bolts in to get the drum off easier, if the hammer and penetrating oil won't work this is what I would try next.
@EricTheCarGuy ,thank you very much sir for the prompt reply.you are a big help for us.hope you can upload more videos.more power to you sir and god bless...
@scottricerules If the friction material on the shoes are of equal length it is a non-servo style, if the friction material on the shoes are of different lengths it's a servo style. This is how I remember it. Servo self adjusts when you brake while backing up and non-servo will adjust when using the parking brake. Servo in essence means "twisting".
dude thats why its called A BRIEF OVERVIEW he's fucking explaining the concept of drum brakes to those who are unaware, it even says in the description jesus fucking ignorant people. so cut him some fucking slack. I learned from this video man great vid two thumbs up!
This comment has received too many negative votesshow
dude ur a fucking idiot!! stop making the videos so pretty and look good and stop talking so much shit and get to the fucking point... im looking to fix my rear drum brakes so GET TO THE POINT!!!!
what is the advantage of drum brakes? I have heard that they are cheaper. I have heard that disk brakes are a lot more effective in wet conditions and in general. So why do u still see them on new cars?
Drum brakes last a long time but that's about where the advantages end in my opinion. Yes they must still be cheep to produce because they keep showing up, I'm confused by this however because disc brakes have a lot less moving parts. Disc brakes use more metal in their manufacturer so perhaps that is where the cost comes in.
Hey, my rear drum on my camaro has been locking up recently right before I come to a stop. The ABS no longer and really my car is showing its age. Its 94 camaro v6 with 185xxx miles and has never had any problems but hey. Machines break. Do you think my drum just needs adjusting or what.
I'm not sure I'm sold on an adjustment fixing the problem. I think an inspection is in order, you might have a leaking axle seal or wheel cylinder or some other issue that is causing it to lock up like that. It could also be a proportioning problem now that I think of it, but check the basics first before you get into a "fancy" diagnosis like that.
a leaking wheel cylinder would not cause a lock up, there would be no pressure, you might have a lot of sediment buildup in the wheel cylinder from age and lack of flushing.
I have seen wheel cylinders go bad and soak the brake shoes causing them to lock up during brake application. When the shoes get soaked the friction material changes and causes this condition. I'm not saying this is what happened, it's just something to check for.
How do I know what pressure to inflate bling bling rims that are not specified on the door jamb. Should low profile tires be inflated according to the door jamb?
Eric, is it okay to do alignment on a car with tires that are not specified on the door jamb? What if the front tires are different sized than the back tires. I know that tires on the same axle have to be the same size, but what about front to back?
Yes, you can align the car but it depends on what part of the tire size is different, is it wider or taller? It's not a good idea to mix tires especially on ABS cars because the ABS computer will see different wheel speeds and may set a code or cause the ABS to activate when the brakes are applied.
Eric, after sanding down brake pad linings with sand paper, can you wash it with soap and water or do you have to use expensive brake cleaner (illegal in CA).
As far as I know, All Data does not provide the fail limit for brake rotors. How would I know if a rotor is not thick enough to pass PA state inspection if All Data does not say?
I used to have a book with all the minimum specs in it. Any shop with a PA inspection license has one of these books somewhere. The local auto parts store might also have the book. A good parts guy would be able to get a spec for you too.
Eric, I've seen a lot of cars with battery terminals that have bluish green "what looks like baking soda" on it. Somebody told me that's corrosion. It's definitely not rust. It really does look like baking soda except for the bluish green color. I've seen baking soda spray cans for the purpose of cleaning battery terminals but they are white, not bluish green. What could it be?
It's corrosion, it usually happens on cheaper batteries. It comes from the gasses that naturally vent from the battery which are corrosive, they eat away at the metal terminals and cause the residue that you are seeing. To get rid of it clean it off with a wire brush and then clean it with baking soda and water, you could spend money on the spray stuff but the solution I mention will work just fine.
Eric, is it common on older cars for the brake caliper to grab after installing new rotors and pads. I am guessing that the reason it's grabbing is because the piston is being pushed back into the bore where it hasn't been in a long time, and, therefore is rusted. The rust in the bore is causing the piston to stick, and, therefore, grab onto the rotor, heating it up. Have you seen this often?
It's probably the type of pads being used or the caliper has a problem. The dust boot should prevent the piston from "rusting", if it's missing I might subscribe to your theory but it's more likely to be the pads.
Eric, my 1992 Accord just failed the ASM5015 dyno emissions test in the state of PA. CO is 2.01 (limit is 1.10). HC is 291 (limit is 275). NO is 7101 (limit is 3600). RPM is 1802. Dilution is 15,8%.
Any advice? I hope it's not the catylitic converter.
thanks buddy!
Lemihn 1 month ago
@Lemihn You're welcome.
EricTheCarGuy 1 month ago
hi dude, could you tell me if the brake cylinders pistons are supposed to move equally with the shoe off?
Mastikno1 2 months ago
@Mastikno1 That's not really how you check them, as long as they move you should be fine just make sure they aren't leaking.
EricTheCarGuy 2 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy ok thanks, sorry i didn't mean with the shoes off, i meant the drum. they were pretty cheap so i replaced them in the end anyway. many thanks though, keep up the good work.
Mastikno1 2 months ago
@Mastikno1 Probably not, that's not a valid test, just verify that both pistons can move by pushing them inward, you run the risk of popping the pistons out doing it the way you describe.
EricTheCarGuy 1 month ago
This has been flagged as spam show
3:10 ... did he just give me the finger?
DepthCue 2 months ago
3:12 ... did he just give me the finger?
DepthCue 2 months ago
can you do a leading training vs dual servo video??
kid2703 3 months ago in playlist Brakes
@kid2703 Perhaps at some point but the videos I make are based on what comes into the shop and I like to have examples when I can.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago 2
I saw this after changing my moms front discs and pads and I just drove it straight over to my mechanic and had a burger and a beer at the diner down the street $125 well spent
DSchruteBeets 4 months ago
@DSchruteBeets That sounds like a good plan, thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
Ok it seems I forgot to bleed the master cylinder...now my brakes are working but only 40%...now I still have to press the pedal to the floor and the brake light comes on....the fluid is topped off...Is it possible I may need a Power brake booster??? And thanks for the first reply
314LifeProductions 4 months ago
@314LifeProductions Hard to say since I'm not sure what your working on but it could be the proportioning valve needs to be reset and bled properly. Some systems require special bleeding procedures check the service manual for those.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
@314LifeProductions I just read your other comment about the type of car you have, I do believe you need a special tool to hold the prop valve in place when you bleed the brakes.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
I have a 72 Buick Skylark...Recently the brakes completely stopped working. It seemed like I had air in the brakeline, so I bleed them twice. Still no brakes. I changed the master cylinder. . I bleed the brakes a third time but this time I just opened the bleeder screw without apply the brake pedal. I noticed that when the brake is applied, the shoes press towards the drum but they do no return to the original position...What could be wrong? plz help I can't afford to take it to a shop...
314LifeProductions 4 months ago
@314LifeProductions I don't think the brake return is your problem, you might want to look for leaks in the system particularly the wheel cylinders first. I would say it could be an adjustment issue but the fact that it happened suddenly really doesn't fit with that. Take a good look at the entire system to see what you can find. Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
Cool video thanks i have a 2007 cobalt and one of my rear breaks makes a squeaking sound whenever i let off the breaks no perfomance issues as of yet but its one of those annoying things. Would you suggest getting entirely new rear drum breaks or is there something i can apply to it to make it go away?
derkgonewild 5 months ago
@derkgonewild I would remove the drums and inspect the brakes to see if there was anything abnormal first, I would not replace them unless I found a problem. You might consider lightly sanding the friction material before you install the drum again also. Make sure they are properly adjusted as well, if they are too tight they may overheat and cause noise. Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
Have any video's on how to remove the hub to install the rear wheel bearing? Have an 1994 ranger 2wd. Thnx
TVFOGGED 5 months ago
@TVFOGGED Sort of, I have a video on how to remove a wheel bearing from an axle shaft. If you goto my website all my videos are categorized by system and you can easily find one that you might be looking for.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
Just wanted to say that your video's are really consise and easy to follow.
I think you're just about the best as far as explaining everything clearly and without alot of confusing mechanical talk.
Keep up the great videos.... and one of your video's has reached almost a quarter miliion hits... fantastic job....!! Glen Flood grflood@msn.com
grflood 5 months ago
@grflood I love your comment, thank you. I even posted it as the comment of the day on my FB page.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
thanks man u helped me with my science assignment thanks alot
grapejelly129 5 months ago
@grapejelly129 I'm happy to help, thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
what to look for on the drums as a good sign they need replaced?
jareds1007 6 months ago
@jareds1007 Scoring, cracks, heat damage. I actually did a video on drum inspection that goes with this one.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
Comment removed
AGreedyTree 7 months ago
Hello, I have replaced my drums and shoes and reinstalled everything back correctly. It worked wonderfully for 1st week. However, it started clicking as I press on the break, "Click, click, click ..." As I let the break off, clicking stops. Please give me your suggestion as to what may be wrong? THANK YOU!!!
kosmosleha 7 months ago
@kosmosleha I'm wondering if you lubricated the backing plate enough, if there were deep grooves in the bosses then that could account for the noise.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
I'd like to say that this video helped me put mine back together (there's this loose spring that I can't find a home for...), but it didn't. However, now I understand drum brakes a bit better. Great vid, nonetheless!
AliveoutofSpite 8 months ago
@AliveoutofSpite It's always good to hear when my videos help people, thanks for your comment.
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
This was pretty awesome! Very thorough & easy to follow along. I can't even figure out my car jack, but I could change a drum brake now. Yea, OK so maybe not, but I can follow along much better now. Thank You!
Preluding99 8 months ago
@Preluding99 I did a video on using that jack if your interested, Changing A Flat With The Tools In Your Car. Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
Thanks for the explanation and video. Good work.
rzozaya1969 9 months ago
@rzozaya1969 Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
Nice Freddie Krueger/Elvira in the background.
brakedd 9 months ago
@brakedd Yea, those guys were my friends for years.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
Is it just me or does your voice change drastically at around 3:40? It seriously tripped me out.
ReverendArmaggedon 9 months ago
@ReverendArmaggedon I honestly don't remember as I did this video some time ago. Didn't mean to freak you though. :)
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
First, I want to say thank you for your videos! :D
However, I did stumble into a bit of a problem. I tried taking my drum off just to look at the assembly to get an idea with what I'd have to work with. It didn't go so smoothly. I couldn't take the drum off using the threaded hole method and ended up in messing up the assembly a bit.
I don't know if you mentioned this, but should you have the parking brake disengaged before you try to take the drum off? After I did that, the drum came off lolz
smash4444 10 months ago
@smash4444 Having been a mechanic for the past 15 years I didn't think to mention that but yes, it is imperative that you release the parking brake before you attempt to remove the drum. I consider not mentioning this an oversight on my part sorry.
EricTheCarGuy 10 months ago
Thanks for the video! I have seen couple of your videos, like the quick throttle cleaning video, that was magical. You're the best. I just subscribed! :) Keep up the good work!
Altair8801 10 months ago
@Altair8801 Thank you for that and your comments.
EricTheCarGuy 10 months ago
And when you want to access the parking brake adjuster you just remove the drum. I have seen videos where they only remove the wheel to access the adjuster with a flat head screwdriver vehicles with drum in hat. But I don't get that, they have to push through the big hole on the hub to access the adjuster and it's covered by the brake disc. How is that possible?...
Altair8801 10 months ago
@Altair8801 Not all adjusters have easy access, just depends on the manufacturer.
EricTheCarGuy 10 months ago
Removing drum brakes seem to be easier than removing disc brakes. I mean you have to support the caliper on disc brakes when you remove them, can't just let them hang there. You don't have that issue with drum brakes.
Altair8801 10 months ago
What are those two things on the drum? They look like wheel weights or something. What are those?...
Altair8801 10 months ago
@Altair8801 They are weights just like wheel weights they are there to help balance the drum assembly.
EricTheCarGuy 10 months ago
Is there nothing that holds the drum to the hub? If it's supposedly not stuck so you don't have to bang it with a hammer it will normally come right off when you remove the wheel, right? I am thinking in terms of disc brakes where you have a small hex socket (Allen) screw that holds the disc in place on the hub.
Altair8801 10 months ago
@Altair8801 Actually they often rust together and sometimes take some doing to get them off.
EricTheCarGuy 10 months ago
great tips great video keep em comin
txj9871 10 months ago
@txj9871 Thank you!
EricTheCarGuy 10 months ago
Awesome video. very basic and to the point. I learned what I needed to know. lol
ryan62586 11 months ago
@ryan62586 Glad you liked the video, thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 11 months ago
This video helped a lot with understanding the basic concept of drum brakes, this is especially helpful because I am a student at an auto diesel college and I am having a test over brakes tomorrow! Thanks!
westtictactoe 1 year ago
@westtictactoe Good luck with your test and thanks for your comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
hi eric... just wanted to let you now your vids are very well put together and informative... thanks for the knowledge
nicawarrior1 1 year ago
@nicawarrior1 Glad you like them, thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
I just replaced the shoes on my wrangler. it was a pain.
I did mess up two studs by hitting them, but studs were pretty easy to replace.
sunnyjason 1 year ago
@sunnyjason Glad it worked out, thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
hey dude thanks for your video! I have a quick question though, on my '01 mazda protege I can't get the drum off --- No matter how big a hammer I use... is it true you help it along with an 8mm bolt or screw... I read it on the internet so I think its true
duckmage2140 1 year ago
@duckmage2140 I actually did a video on that very thing, Removing Drums, The Easy Way.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Anyone knows if my '98 Hyundai Accent's brakes tight up when I apply the handbrake or when I back up and push on the brakes?
DanielRemains 1 year ago
@DanielRemains I'm pretty sure that's a non-servo style which would adjust with the hand brake. To be honest however it's not common for those to work as they should so it's not a bad idea to clean and readjust them manually from time to time.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
@EricTheCarGuy Yeah I did it like 4 times this week lol having hard time to adjust them just perfect. The handbrake in the car is tight and the brakes aswell but the handbrake still doesn't lock the wheels like it should. Thanks for the reply man! Oh and today I checked that little adjuster plate that is supposed to make the adjuster wheel turn but instead of going up it goes to the left which doesn't help for s**t LOL.
DanielRemains 1 year ago
@DanielRemains Self adjusters are a joke to be honest that's why it's good to do them manually once in a while. It's actually common for the brake not to hold if the shoes are new they kind of need to seat in first as new shoes sometimes don't make complete contact inside the drum, think oval inside of a circle. As for tips on adjusting you might want to check out some of the videos I did on drum brake servicing where I not only show what parts to lubricate but how to adjust.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
yeah... you rock... um by the way can i have your e-add? i might as well make you as my adviser... can i? here's mine jericomortiz@yahoo.com tnx~~
duhkify 1 year ago
@duhkify Thanks for your comment. I'm not sure what you are referring to with your request however.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Think about your marriage and get a trusted women rockmycity.info
tilleypete4 1 year ago
yeah.. you rock.. it helped me a lot... i cant believe my self... being a mechanic LOL... while being a nurse... your vid really help me out... thanx a lot...
duhkify 1 year ago
@duhkify Now go out into the world and use your newfound powers for the good of the people.. Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
hey eric... good day dude... great tips out there... do you have a clip on how to adjust park brake (handbrake) coz mine is lose and it doesn't have any grip at all... pls help me...
duhkify 1 year ago
@duhkify I recommend watching one of the drum brake replacement videos to see how to adjust the rear brakes. When adjusting a parking brake you start by adjusting at the wheels and if you still need more adjustment you then adjust the cable tension. You do not want to adjust the cable tension first as it will make it difficult to install new shoes if you have to at some point.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
hey thanks eric, you explain things really clearly and simply. you make it very easy to understand car stuff!!! good work!
vendetta355 1 year ago
@vendetta355 Thank you!
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
how do you bled a brake line hydraulic valve? I need to know this as well!!!!!
goodandchew10 1 year ago
@goodandchew10 I don't have a video on bleeding at this time sorry but the best way is to have 2 people, one in the car working the brake and the other outside working the brake bleeders. Use this order LF, RR, RF, LR to be most effective. Have the person in the car push the pedal down while you open the valve, before the let off the brake pedal close the valve, do this till you don't see any air come out.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
hey eric what model camera do you use?
AlfredoNipples 1 year ago
@AlfredoNipples Sony HDR-SR11
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Ok, I got my brakes fixed well kinda my calipers slides back and forth and the brake pads rub on the rotor i tightened the caliper bolts as tight as i could get them. Trying to think whats causing this. why would a brake pad rub against a rotor?
goodandchew10 1 year ago
@goodandchew10 Brake pads will rub against the rotor normally, if it's not causing the wheel to drag I would not worry about it. If it is locking up the wheel then you probably need a caliper or possibly a brake hose. BTW tightening caliper bolts really wont' do anything but make it harder to get it off in the future.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Does a 4 drum system require a proportioning valve? I thought it is required only when you have drum in the rear and disk in the front.
eflynn162 1 year ago
@eflynn162 I've seen them on 4 drum systems, the reason is that you want to front wheels to do most of the braking as this makes the braking more efficient.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
If I have 4 wheel drum brakes and a single bowl master, can I add a dual bowl master and run a new set of lines? Do I need a equilizer block or just the lines. Thank you, Jim
eflynn162 1 year ago
@eflynn162 I'm not sure what the benefit would be of just installing a dual bowl master, these are referred to as "split diagonal" in that one chamber activates the RF and LR and the other the LF and RR, this is a safety feature that keeps you from loosing all of your brakes should there be some sort of failure. The "equalizer block" you refer to is actually the Proportioning Valve and helps proportion the braking force front and rear, normally 80% front and 20% rear.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
begin rant
The rusty, dusty condition of older brake systems make me nervous. I know rusty, dusty brake systems have been stopping cars and trucks for many years and will continue to do so, but how is it that in a 100 years of making this stuff, car manufactures can't build brake systems that don't look like a junk yard after a few weeks of wet weather? Ya, I know brakes systems need air and open space to help cool them, but come on how dirty does a guy's hands have to get?
end rant
;-} RL
rlewis1946 1 year ago
@rlewis1946 Consider this, brakes turn speed into heat, your car is out in the elements, rain, dust, snow, ice, cold, and hot conditions. The metal in the brake system goes through a wide range of temperatures in a given day, month, or year, all of this will take it's toll on the metal causing it to rust as well as temper over time. Now consider there is only so much the engineers can spend on the metal they use for the brakes, now multiply that by the number of cars they need to put brakes on.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
@EricTheCarGuy Point well taken! Frankly, I've been watching this set of videos over and over to have enough guts to pull off the back wheels of my 1998 Sienna van and just look at its drum brakes....much less work on then! Thanks for all your hard work and posting these videos. They're well done and as I've said before, I love those close-ups!! Have a good one!! Roy
rlewis1946 1 year ago
Ur rear drum boots are done
1993TMAXX 1 year ago
@1993TMAXX I'm not sure what you mean.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
@EricTheCarGuy I said your rear pads are not good anymore, close to 5mm, we throw them to trash and get new ones. other than that, the rest is alright
1993TMAXX 1 year ago
@1993TMAXX The shoe replacement is covered in the next 2 videos of this series. Thanks for your comments.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
asbestos
TheCards123 1 year ago
how much would this normally cost at the shop?
MasterNeko 1 year ago
@MasterNeko I don't do pricing sorry.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Also, How would i get the front brakes start to work the calipers work i feel them pressing on the pad but they are not pressing hard enough so whats going on here as well? i bled them as well. I changed the master cylinder out with a used one from the junk yard along with the brake booster. The front pads have ALOT of life left in them. I have a 1988 Dodge Dakota.
Thank you. Really need any info.
goodandchew10 1 year ago
@goodandchew10 A used master cylinder is not a good idea in my opinion, it also sounds like you might benefit from bleeding the brakes, try this procedure, LF, RR, RF, LR. I also recommend using the tool I showed in the video to bleed with as you can see the air in the system if there is anything. Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Eric, I did everything you told me to do. Since I dont have an E-brake I did the reg. brake then bled the brakes. They worked for awhile but it wasnt for that long i took it on a 25 mile trip and they lost brake pressure. I had to fill the master cylinder up a lil bit i check to see if the lines were leaking they shouldnt of been bc i replaced them when i did the brakes. My ? is what is wrong here the master cylinder blew? or is it the rear drum shoes? Very concerned and starting to get irrated
goodandchew10 1 year ago
@goodandchew10 Did you possibly let go of the brake pedal while the bleeding nipple was open? If so, this would of caused air to get in the brake line system witch would of caused your brakes to be spongy.
1993TMAXX 1 year ago
Very good video!
dieselmechanics101 1 year ago
@dieselmechanics101 Thank you.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
do you know what i can use to remove the rust from the drums? if possible.
btw i enjoy your videos, very helpful. thanks
bambuirvin 1 year ago
@bambuirvin Depends on what your reason is for removing the rust, if you want to paint them the best thing to do is sand blast, other than that your looking at a lot of hand sanding.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
You seem to know your stuff man. but i got a question man i just took my truck 4 wheelin n now my drums make a sorta grinding noise on and off at different speeds but only when i accelerate. any ideas....? email my youtube back if ya want
TheAnonymous907 1 year ago
@TheAnonymous907 I would check for mud or debris along the drive train and wheels.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Big thanks to you for giving the basics about drum type brakes. I fully understand its features and its functions. Though others wont appreciate it because of the new technologies but as beginners I do give a thumbs up.
ndrils4767 1 year ago
@ndrils4767 Thanks for the great comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Good video, I was so spoiled, I worked at Mercedes Benz of beverly hills for 2 years, and never touched drums, only a few times
At Wyotech, and now that I'm side while going to school I see drums and I think noooooooo, I miss all wheels having discs, sometimes two calipers per wheel.. Grr old design
hydrosav2007 1 year ago
@hydrosav2007 I was too working on Acuras for all those years, it's good to get back to the roots however. Thanks for your comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Lots of work evident here. Good work!
dartme18 1 year ago
@dartme18 Thanks for the great comment, I do try to keep things interesting.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
thanks Eric, I would rather have a hard top, just think the convertable top takes away from the look of the cars lines, going to get hate mail for this comment.. lol... going to work on the brakes today, will take your advice, thanks Jeff
subron6er 1 year ago
if i get mud in the drumb could it cause it to knock when the brakes are applied
StrainingDingelberry 1 year ago
@StrainingDingelberry It could. It might also be groves worn into the backing plate, this is why I lubricate the bosses whenever I replace shoes. It's also a good idea to make sure you have the rubber plug installed in the backing plate to keep contaminants out.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
thanks alot Eric, I will take your advice, after I get this thing going again I want to make a number of updates, we have owned this car 27 years now. I wish I could say something cool, like its an origianl z-28 or SS but its not, just a plane old Camaro that was once a 307 car with an ugly gold paint job.... lol. thanks again Jeff
subron6er 1 year ago
@subron6er I had a neighbor with a car just like that, it was a convertible though, I'm not a fan of convertibles personally. You still have a better Camaro that I do. :)
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
thanks I have a 69 Camaro I am just starting to work on again after its been sitting the last 12 years. It has the original drum brakes on it, and right now the peddle goes to the floor, and the drives side front break is leaking fluid, trying to get some repair tips here before going it,,,, thanks Jeff J.
subron6er 1 year ago
@subron6er First I will say I'm completely jealous of your car, for years I carried a pic of a 69 Z28 in my wallet. If it were me I would look into a front disc brake conversion and not even bother with the drums. If your are going to keep the drums the biggest tip I can give you is to make sure your brake adjustments on both front brakes are close or it will pull toward the side with the "tighter" adjustment when you brake.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
I learned alot from these videos. Being that it was my first time doing rear brakes. I banged and banged the drum without any success. Then check youtube and found your video. I doubled checked my drum and found that it had threaded holes. It popped off no problem. Thanks
erikinct 1 year ago
@erikinct Your most welcome, thanks for sharing and the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Do you have any shows dealing with a hydraulic clutch on common GM cars? My slave cylinder is acting strange, i know i have to over haul the engine to get to it, but i still would think its really cool to see how clutches work.
cincityallstar 1 year ago
@cincityallstar I don't get too many GM's into the shop right now but I have plans to change that since so many of my viewers drive domestic cars. I have however shot a video on a clutch replacement that I hope to edit soon that will show how it works. As for your slave cylinder you don't need to overhaul the engine just remove the transmission, if there is a leak you may see the fluid getting low and possibly a trail of it between the engine and trans.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
video starts at 23 seconds.
BobbyIronsights 1 year ago
@BobbyIronsights ???
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
can i replace my rear drum brakes with new disc brakes?
murcielago122 1 year ago
@murcielago122 You can do anything with enough money and time trust me. You will also need a new proportioning valve in addition the the brakes. You will also have to change what the brakes mount to depending on your set up.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Comment removed
tenalouise1 1 year ago
Hi Eric <3 ,
I love your video's ! Oh sure, they're 'very' informative but it's not the info I'm interested in . . . I love to watch you and the way you explain all of this mechanical stuff. You're easy on the eyes and I'll be watching your Video's
for a long time to come ! :P)
tenalouise1 1 year ago
@tenalouise1 Well I'm happy to entertain you if nothing else, welcome aboard.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
nice video, explain everything and i did mine with this info. I watched other videos that just made it confusing, THANKS
bnjw2 1 year ago
@bnjw2 Glad I could help, thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Eric, I'm working on a 2006 Honda Civic 4door LX, and it has the drum brakes in the rear with those 2 holes for using bolts. Do you know what the size of the bolt is? And are you supposed to just keep threading it in until it pops? Or do you hit the bolts with a hammer?
mrjost55 1 year ago
@mrjost55 I think the bolts are 8X1.25, not sure though. Don't hit the bolts, just tighten. You can also hit the drum between the studs to pop it loose but be careful not to hit the studs.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
very nice video thanks
dosteddaram 1 year ago
So how long would you expect replacing the brake pads to take for a beginner? I've done disc brake pads before but never drum. Can you believe my mate was just quoted $500 to replace the rear brake pads on a 1991 ford laser thats only done 70,000km!
I'm gonna take the hub off and check remaining meat on the pads in the next couple of days and maybe replace them..
rad886655 1 year ago
@rad886655 Depends on your skill level and more importantly your tools. With good tools and a moderate skill level I would say an hour or 2. Just work methodically and carefully and you should be fine. You can watch the videos I did on the procedure to get a more detailed view of how it is done.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
@EricTheCarGuy Good day sir!! i tried to take off my drum brake to check my brake shoes but apparently the drum does not go off.what will i do do get it off?my car is mitsubishi lancer.there is a 2 hole in the drum.what is that for?your reply will be highly appreciated.thank you in advace..
richardramoso 1 year ago
@richardramoso You can use a little penetrating oil around the studs for starters. Next try hammering the outside of the drum between the studs like I showed in the drum brake video (I did another video showing how to do this job BTW). The little holes are places where you can thread bolts in to get the drum off easier, if the hammer and penetrating oil won't work this is what I would try next.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
@EricTheCarGuy ,thank you very much sir for the prompt reply.you are a big help for us.hope you can upload more videos.more power to you sir and god bless...
richardramoso 1 year ago
@richardramoso Thank you very much for that. Have a great day.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
@scottricerules If the friction material on the shoes are of equal length it is a non-servo style, if the friction material on the shoes are of different lengths it's a servo style. This is how I remember it. Servo self adjusts when you brake while backing up and non-servo will adjust when using the parking brake. Servo in essence means "twisting".
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
dude thats why its called A BRIEF OVERVIEW he's fucking explaining the concept of drum brakes to those who are unaware, it even says in the description jesus fucking ignorant people. so cut him some fucking slack. I learned from this video man great vid two thumbs up!
Evanz12 1 year ago 12
This comment has received too many negative votes show
dude ur a fucking idiot!! stop making the videos so pretty and look good and stop talking so much shit and get to the fucking point... im looking to fix my rear drum brakes so GET TO THE POINT!!!!
KINGBLAZE305 1 year ago
Well perhaps if you are in such a hurry you should be working on your car instead of wasting time watching YouTube videos. :)
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
if i knew how to do it i wouldnt be wasting time watching youtube videos
KINGBLAZE305 1 year ago
what is the advantage of drum brakes? I have heard that they are cheaper. I have heard that disk brakes are a lot more effective in wet conditions and in general. So why do u still see them on new cars?
founditnow54 1 year ago
Drum brakes last a long time but that's about where the advantages end in my opinion. Yes they must still be cheep to produce because they keep showing up, I'm confused by this however because disc brakes have a lot less moving parts. Disc brakes use more metal in their manufacturer so perhaps that is where the cost comes in.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Yeah I agree with you - I dont see how they could be cheaper, maybe bc of no calipers and steel rotors...idk. nice video as usual
founditnow54 1 year ago
u only get two eyes, i'v had some close calls that may have got me addicted to antihistamine visine.
AutoStudent4Life 2 years ago
I suppose there are worse things to be addicted to.
EricTheCarGuy 2 years ago
you don't have to hit the drum with a hammer to get it off and why do you wear safety glasses
johndeere6780 2 years ago
I think I'm going to do a video on alternative methods of getting drums off, using screws, etc. As for safety glasses, why do you NOT wear them?
EricTheCarGuy 2 years ago
Hey, my rear drum on my camaro has been locking up recently right before I come to a stop. The ABS no longer and really my car is showing its age. Its 94 camaro v6 with 185xxx miles and has never had any problems but hey. Machines break. Do you think my drum just needs adjusting or what.
Stevenhiggles 2 years ago
I'm not sure I'm sold on an adjustment fixing the problem. I think an inspection is in order, you might have a leaking axle seal or wheel cylinder or some other issue that is causing it to lock up like that. It could also be a proportioning problem now that I think of it, but check the basics first before you get into a "fancy" diagnosis like that.
EricTheCarGuy 2 years ago
a leaking wheel cylinder would not cause a lock up, there would be no pressure, you might have a lot of sediment buildup in the wheel cylinder from age and lack of flushing.
randrewromero 2 years ago
I have seen wheel cylinders go bad and soak the brake shoes causing them to lock up during brake application. When the shoes get soaked the friction material changes and causes this condition. I'm not saying this is what happened, it's just something to check for.
EricTheCarGuy 2 years ago
contaminated friction material would cause a lock up, yes. the wheel wylinder its self no.
randrewromero 2 years ago
@randrewromero look youre a fucking dumbass. you said "wheel wylinder its self no" only an idiot would say that.
you suck ericthecarguys dick
eric you should sell that on video, might make more money.
thanks for the brake tips brah!!
xxsteveo420xx 2 years ago
whatever yall are fuckin shade tree mechanics i know my shit
randrewromero 1 year ago
except eric
randrewromero 1 year ago
How do I know what pressure to inflate bling bling rims that are not specified on the door jamb. Should low profile tires be inflated according to the door jamb?
nobleheight 2 years ago
Eric, is it okay to do alignment on a car with tires that are not specified on the door jamb? What if the front tires are different sized than the back tires. I know that tires on the same axle have to be the same size, but what about front to back?
nobleheight 2 years ago
Yes, you can align the car but it depends on what part of the tire size is different, is it wider or taller? It's not a good idea to mix tires especially on ABS cars because the ABS computer will see different wheel speeds and may set a code or cause the ABS to activate when the brakes are applied.
EricTheCarGuy 2 years ago
Eric, after sanding down brake pad linings with sand paper, can you wash it with soap and water or do you have to use expensive brake cleaner (illegal in CA).
nobleheight 2 years ago
I suppose you could use either method, I'm not sure why, brake pads create dust when they wear anyway and will eventually get smooth from use.
EricTheCarGuy 2 years ago
As far as I know, All Data does not provide the fail limit for brake rotors. How would I know if a rotor is not thick enough to pass PA state inspection if All Data does not say?
nobleheight 2 years ago
I used to have a book with all the minimum specs in it. Any shop with a PA inspection license has one of these books somewhere. The local auto parts store might also have the book. A good parts guy would be able to get a spec for you too.
EricTheCarGuy 2 years ago
Eric, will driving a car with different diameter wheels on the same axle damage the differential on that axle.
nobleheight 2 years ago
Yes, different diameter wheels travel at different speeds causing the differential to heat up.
EricTheCarGuy 2 years ago
Eric, I've seen a lot of cars with battery terminals that have bluish green "what looks like baking soda" on it. Somebody told me that's corrosion. It's definitely not rust. It really does look like baking soda except for the bluish green color. I've seen baking soda spray cans for the purpose of cleaning battery terminals but they are white, not bluish green. What could it be?
nobleheight 2 years ago
It's corrosion, it usually happens on cheaper batteries. It comes from the gasses that naturally vent from the battery which are corrosive, they eat away at the metal terminals and cause the residue that you are seeing. To get rid of it clean it off with a wire brush and then clean it with baking soda and water, you could spend money on the spray stuff but the solution I mention will work just fine.
EricTheCarGuy 2 years ago
Eric, is it common on older cars for the brake caliper to grab after installing new rotors and pads. I am guessing that the reason it's grabbing is because the piston is being pushed back into the bore where it hasn't been in a long time, and, therefore is rusted. The rust in the bore is causing the piston to stick, and, therefore, grab onto the rotor, heating it up. Have you seen this often?
nobleheight 2 years ago
It's probably the type of pads being used or the caliper has a problem. The dust boot should prevent the piston from "rusting", if it's missing I might subscribe to your theory but it's more likely to be the pads.
EricTheCarGuy 2 years ago
Eric, BTW this is not the Accord with the previously broken timing belt and bent valves.
nobleheight 2 years ago
Eric, my 1992 Accord just failed the ASM5015 dyno emissions test in the state of PA. CO is 2.01 (limit is 1.10). HC is 291 (limit is 275). NO is 7101 (limit is 3600). RPM is 1802. Dilution is 15,8%.
Any advice? I hope it's not the catylitic converter.
nobleheight 2 years ago