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  • Nice video, thanks for the good information! I am wondering if an alignment is needed after this install? After banging on the control arm so much, it seems like it would throw it off a little......? Your thoughts?

  • @wonderlyeric I think an enlightenment would be in order after this procedure. Not just from banging on it, but just the fact of taking the strut out of the upper control arm. However, I didn't get mine aligned for the simple reason that I HATE taking my car to tire shops, because of the real risk of drawing a moron to work on it. It's been a while, and so far I have noticed no outside, nor inside tire wear due to toe issues.... I should do it, but I just don't want to.

  • Its really a good video i,m gonna do this with my mazda demio because we have the same type of shock absorber...Thanks for uploading..

  • @jolo0607 thank you for the compliment, and I hope you find the video useful. If you run into trouble, read all the comments from other people. Some people have run into some issues, and thankfully, I was able to help them through it, so you might find something useful. GOOD LUCK!

  • Thanks! I had the coil spring compressed and replaced the strut mount.  But for some reason, the strut bolt (screw) is not long enough even I fully extended it. Also, the bolt doesn't seem to align with the hole.

  • @chiujason are you talking about the 3 bolts that bolt into the fender, or the shaft on the strut itself? if you are talking about the 3 bolts that go into the fender, you just need to jack up on the rotor, and control arm assembly a little to get it closer to the fender. If the 3 bolt holes in a triangle don't match up, you just need to rotate the mount around with your hands.  It is touch, but it can easily be done. You just need to fiddle with it, and use some finesse.

  • @themarkfellows2 I am talking about the bolt hole in the centre. Somehow I am having trouble to line it up with the strut bolt! But I guess I will post some pics and see if you can help! Thank you very much!

  • is there a special way to install the strut mount, for some reason I can't install it back!?

  • Thanks for posting this, just replaced mine following it. Tip for less hammering on the spindle: You need to hammer down (I used a 2x4) to loosen it up, but once the strut bolt flange clears the spindle slot, and you notice it is a little loose: 1) Use a small crowbar or large screwdriver to push down on the spindle, while leveraging on the back of the strut, or 2) push/bonce with your body weight, down on the spindle. Both worked me, hope it helps others, again thanks for documenting this.

  • @tho323 I am very pleased that people have found this useful! Thanks for adding the tip! When I get the time, I will try and text your tip into the video with your name on it. Hopefully, I won't forget... I very much appreciate your watching, commenting, and even more, your helpful tip! Mark :)

  • So when you put everything back together how did you know when the nuts were tight enough?

  • @truesoilder1234 Also, thanks for watching and commenting!

  • @truesoilder1234 As far as the nut on the top of the shock that holds the bumper down, I tightened it as far as it would go with a 1/2 inch wrench, without stripping the threads. The three bolts that hold the strut where also tightened with the 1/2 drive, buts les. I guess your point is, I should have listed torque specs, but the thing is, after all the years working on cars, I guess I just have a feel for how tight things should be. Best bet is to find the torque specs on this, and use that.

  • do you think it would of been easier if you had a impact wrench to take off the nut that held the spring in tact or the bolt that held the strut to the control arm?

  • @truesoilder1234 ABSOLUTELY! However, I didn't have a sufficient air compressor to move the volume of air I needed to run my impact wrench, and when I looked at them, they were about 350.00 for what I needed, and I didn't want to spend the money, just to use it for these struts. If I had a garage these days I might invest in one to do engine rebuilds and such, but I don't do that stuff anymore, as I don't have a garage.

  • Appreciate the sentiment of making the video in the first place, and it is very helpful! Thanks a load, man.

  • @Serafe Glad to do it! When I was about to do my car, I was surprised to not be able to find a video, or really any info from others who did it, so I decided to do a video for others. I found some vague answers on Mazda forums saying "it's not that hard" but not much else, so I wanted to help others.

  • Try loosing up the bolts that hold the strut in place on top. The 3 bolts that hold the shock into the body. The strut should be able to move with the assembly. There will be resistance at first, but just tap on it, and make sure it is lubed up, and it will pop in. Lastly, Don't worry, you didn't break anything.

  • I got the struts off but I can't get them back on. It's going in on an angle and I'm trying to use the jack stand. Obviously people have done it this way but I don't see how it's going to work without taking something else off.

  • @specialbuddy1

    ALso make sure not to jack up on it too much, and put too much pressure on it. You just want slight pressure, and don't get your fingers, hands, etc in the way.

  • Speacialbuddy, mine is the 2.3 litre, but I seriously doubt it matters at all. I would bet the procedure is exactly the same. It would make sense to have a whole different suspension setup for the 2.0. Let us know how it turns out..

  • I'm thinking about doing this. Is your car the 2.0 or 2.3? Does that even matter?

  • Glad to make it, thanks for watching!

  • Cool thanks for the video.

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