Good one Paul !!! I turn my table 90* from what you have there and set up the fence and guide rail using the table that way......it gives me a whole lot more crosscutting width !!
These are some great modifications! It turns the MFT/TS this into a radial arm / compound miter saw! I do have a few quick important questions for you, though, Paul.
1) Is the process essentially the same for an MFT3?
2) How did you measure the shim for setting up the infeed fence?
3) Is your infeed fence almost flush with the left-side of the kerf line?
4) How proud is the infeed fence from the outfeed fence?
The process is different for the MFT/3; many dimensions are different. I don't have an MFT/3. There's a thread on the FOG for this video eeries; a guy used the ideas and email with me to come up with an MFT/3 method. Give this a look: festoolownersgroup {dot} com/festool-tool-reviews/video-review-of-festool-mft-system-(495462-495565-495888)/msg137695/#msg137695 (YoutTube doesn't allow links)
I'm not sure what you mean by infeed/outfeed fences. Can you clarify?
@HalfInchShy that (non) link is super helpful. I'll try that calibration exercise out this week. You said that the fence you have to the left of the guide rail (infeed) is proud of the one to the right of it (outfeed). I was just wondering by how much. I was also wondering how much room you have between the end of your infeed fence and the cut line from the guide rail.
@mankindtools The right-side off cut fence is about 1/8" behind the plane of the main fence. It's arbitrary. Could be 1/16", could be 7/16"; all that matters is that the flag stop reaches in to the plane of the main fence so when you slide stock over, it touches.
I don't recall if I mentioned it in the video or not, but when I use the Qwas system to square the guide rail and fence, I've crosscut a 26" wide piece of MDF then measured the hypotenuse to see if it matched what it should be if the cut was square. It was within 1/3 of a millimeter. I remember measuring it many times because it startled me, too :)
I saw that you've since posted your question on the FOG and got the answer you needed. The right side is tricky to use because of the rubber edge. I'm not sure if there is a spec or not, but the distance from the left side to the left edge of the second hump (what guides the saw and routers) seems to always be parallel. Whether that is guaranteed or not, I don't know, but it certainly works!
You used the Qwas dogs to make sure the left side of the rail is 90 to the fence but how can you be sure the right side of the rail is parallel to the left side (where the actual cutting will take place). Also how do you know the splinter guard will be parallel to the left side of the rail. Great video and keep up the good work.
Good one Paul !!! I turn my table 90* from what you have there and set up the fence and guide rail using the table that way......it gives me a whole lot more crosscutting width !!
donluke578 3 months ago
These are some great modifications! It turns the MFT/TS this into a radial arm / compound miter saw! I do have a few quick important questions for you, though, Paul.
1) Is the process essentially the same for an MFT3?
2) How did you measure the shim for setting up the infeed fence?
3) Is your infeed fence almost flush with the left-side of the kerf line?
4) How proud is the infeed fence from the outfeed fence?
Thanks1
mankindtools 3 months ago
@mankindtools thanks!
The process is different for the MFT/3; many dimensions are different. I don't have an MFT/3. There's a thread on the FOG for this video eeries; a guy used the ideas and email with me to come up with an MFT/3 method. Give this a look: festoolownersgroup {dot} com/festool-tool-reviews/video-review-of-festool-mft-system-(495462-495565-495888)/msg137695/#msg137695 (YoutTube doesn't allow links)
I'm not sure what you mean by infeed/outfeed fences. Can you clarify?
HalfInchShy 3 months ago
@HalfInchShy that (non) link is super helpful. I'll try that calibration exercise out this week. You said that the fence you have to the left of the guide rail (infeed) is proud of the one to the right of it (outfeed). I was just wondering by how much. I was also wondering how much room you have between the end of your infeed fence and the cut line from the guide rail.
mankindtools 2 months ago
@mankindtools The right-side off cut fence is about 1/8" behind the plane of the main fence. It's arbitrary. Could be 1/16", could be 7/16"; all that matters is that the flag stop reaches in to the plane of the main fence so when you slide stock over, it touches.
HalfInchShy 2 months ago
I don't recall if I mentioned it in the video or not, but when I use the Qwas system to square the guide rail and fence, I've crosscut a 26" wide piece of MDF then measured the hypotenuse to see if it matched what it should be if the cut was square. It was within 1/3 of a millimeter. I remember measuring it many times because it startled me, too :)
HalfInchShy 6 months ago
Hi, p8ntblr1,
I saw that you've since posted your question on the FOG and got the answer you needed. The right side is tricky to use because of the rubber edge. I'm not sure if there is a spec or not, but the distance from the left side to the left edge of the second hump (what guides the saw and routers) seems to always be parallel. Whether that is guaranteed or not, I don't know, but it certainly works!
HalfInchShy 6 months ago
@HalfInchShy Thanks for the reply both here and at FOG. Very informative videos. Festool needs to hire you as a dealer.
p8ntblr1 6 months ago
You used the Qwas dogs to make sure the left side of the rail is 90 to the fence but how can you be sure the right side of the rail is parallel to the left side (where the actual cutting will take place). Also how do you know the splinter guard will be parallel to the left side of the rail. Great video and keep up the good work.
p8ntblr1 6 months ago