Climbing Tools: Crevasse self Rescue. Garda hitch

[jamesbluecruzer1]

why wouldnt you just use two locking beaners? I feel like that would be safer than watching the placement of the rope every five seconds.

[boraboy4ever]

sorry that was pretty funny on the helmet bit. thanks f garda hitch demo.

[tuliro620]

I agree with mike. Screw gates are better. But please, when you do a demo wear a helmet. You wouldn't want to bump your head on the rock and forget what you are saying.

[tuliro620]

I agree, mikebarter387 is right. Screw gates are better.

[annulus1]

Lummers70 - If I dropped my atc (which I never take off the biner) I would reach into my toobox and pull out the trusty ol prussik, autoblock, or klemheist. When in need I have belayed using a munter or rescued using the same hitch with a mule. Strictly speaking alpine climbing of course. If caving or aid climbing then a different ascension technique. What you keep in your toolbox is your business. Hope you know how to ascend a rope without a biner.

[osolaser]

usar casco es incomodo, golpearce en la roca, lo es aun mas!!!

[biodiezel]

u should use a italien knot insted

[banffmedia]

@biodiezel Not really. How do you keep it in place and not lose your gain?

[Janfodne]

I've tried this going up a rope. This method is a bit faster, and less clumsy than using dual prussiks, but at the lack of safety (NB: always clip the prussik cord into your harness). If you know your going into a crevasse, or a waterfall - it would be way faster with an ascender or two. anyways - a great method of ascending if you've lost some essential gear. etc.

good job with the videos

[annulus1]

For multi tasking just use your ATC rigged in guide mode that you already have along with you for belaying. Unless you carry a clunky grigri alpine climbing or still prefer the good ol hip belay.

[mikebarter387]

@annulus1 I agree however still does not hurt to know how to do this.

[Lummers70]

@annulus1

Thinking like that is what will get you into problems. These techniques are potential life savers fro when all is going wrong and the 'ATC' is not available.......how many ATC's have been dropped???!!!

[sheena090905]

your good but you do not have proper PPE.

[mikebarter387]

@sheena090905 PPE what is that?

[mikebarter387]

@sheena090905 PPE what is that?

[mikebarter387]

@sheena090905 PPE what is that?

[icecoldmammal]

i think PPE stands for personal protective eqiupement....

[hooleyb123]

does the garda hitch work like an ATC?

[mikebarter387]

@hooleyb123 Depends how you mean that. A ATC used as a autoblock, then the answer is yes

[colpiland]

nice vid:) hope your headache didnt stay too long

[karlnz70kg]

what about using locking carabiners with the gates facing opposite directions? then the barrels on the gates would not interfere.

[mikebarter387]

@karlnz70kg You have a shape issue, sorry just forget about the locking biners it does not work well with them any way you cut it.

[sim600]

Very nice and I like how Paul points out the possible dangers to look out for.

[youjib]

nice

[F1X0R121]

I've used my Gri-gri like that. If you're going to use the garda like that, wouldn't screwgates be a good idea?

[mikebarter387]

@F1X0R121 see the above. The screw gates prevent the biners from binding properly

[F1X0R121]

@mikebarter387 I've really never had that problem but then the screwgates I do have are of a very similar type and the screw barrel itself is very unobtrusive

[08yannch]

@mikebarter387 i have actually tried this with screw gate biners and it works but i just had one set the other way around so the gates were not touching. * this was with D biners and i would guess it wouldn't work 2 well on oval screw gates

[rarbiart]

very good demonstration "pro helmet"

[muhamedg14]

hahah, mike your soooo clumbsy, but your my favorite. Hey do u think you could do something for a beginer mountaneer, what would i need, so the camming devices, rope of cours, etc. And what would the basic rope nots be for a mountaneer. I am a rockclimber but only climbed indoors so i know some of the stuff. If you cant do it, do you know a link where i can see these things being done, but someone that explains it as wel as you. thanks mate

[mikebarter387]

@muhamedg14 I will see what I can do. This week I am starting a series called Mikes Mail where I do video answers to questions just like yours.

[SgtKiller33]

dude you're awesome. Ive never seen this hitch, and never seen it used as an ascender. I will learn this directly!

Also your comments about the gri-gri are right on, we should always know a knot, hitch or technique to use when the mechanical devices fail. Be cool!

[6kuku9]

Over here we call that a alpine clutch - never seen it used as an ascender tho' - thanx - top vid

[cride1]

Good demonstration by Paul when he banged his head on the rock on why wearing a helmet is a good idea.

[mikebarter387]

Locking biners would be a solution except that the screw gates keep the biners from pinching together. They bind against the spine of the carabiner and won't pinch the rope tight enough. Not sure that is clear but give it a try and you will see what happens.

That is a good question that I am sure may must be thinking

Thanks

Mike

[ewill351]

That makes sense, thanks for the clarification. After I read your post I see exactly what you mean, the lockers create to much space not allowing the biners to really bind down on the rope.

Keep up the great vids, very informational and easy to follow! Thanks.

[ewill351]

You say this is a dicey knot due to the possibility of the rope un-clipping itself from the biner. Wouldn't a pair of locking carabiners solve that issue? Seems like an easy solution, is there something I'm missing?

[chelemena182]

Thanks for adding these crevasse self rescue videos, mike.