Added: 3 years ago
From: Turbo231
Views: 66,520
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  • I hate drum brakes. they are a pain

  • @beatlemaniac1995 They do have decreased performance but their design makes them pretty bullet proof, especially for the back end of cars.

  • @Turbo231 I understand that lol I just hate changing them is all.

  • @Turbo231

    I am glad Subaru don't use them. Disc brakes change in about 5 minutes per wheel.

  • @filmftw3 Yeah...but as said in the comments, disc brakes in the back are faster to change but are more prone to not working/seizing.

  • @Turbo231

    Disc brakes don't seize or quit. They wear out much faster. On my Subaru they last about 4 years and you change them for $10. However on my Toyota van, with rear drums, I haven't changed them since I owned the car, 10+ years. Now its leaking brake oil, and I don't think I can fix it. Mechanic quoted me $300 to completely do everything for both rear wheels. So for me, discs are much better, because I can easily fix em, its simple. With drums, I don' even know where to start

  • @filmftw3 You must live in a rust free area. Disc brakes, especially rear ones, rust and seize...easily. That's part of the problem as the mechanism is all exposed. Drum brakes on the other hand are enclosed...as proven by your toyota van...keep working until they are done. They tend not to rust, although backing plates that hold everything tend to, it is the exposed part. As for your van, that's an axle seal, think of it as a wheel bearing. Easy to do if you know what you're doing.

  • my drum doesn't come off. I mean it is RUSTED! Is there any suggestions on how to take it out? I tried to hummer one out on a similar car, but it wouldn't move. Is there a solution I can apply or do I have to try ripping it out and buying a new one? Thank YOU!

  • @kosmosleha Well, you have to get over that wear lip. You can retract the drum pads by adjusting the park brake wheel holding the pads apart...should be an access hole on the backing plate and with a screwdriver and a hammer, that should draw them in and make the drum easier to remove.

  • on my 88 Gm ..when i removed the drum...The Lower spring was hooked on the Shoe hole And the other end was hooked to the adjuster plater piece thing . The thing that hangs there & has a cable hooked to it ..Thats where the other end of my spring was hoooked ? weird? Looks like you hooked yours to the shoes on both ends. this has me a bit confused. Is it wrong to have it hooked at the shoe & the other end going to the little metal adjuster clip that sits just next to the adjuster cam thing?

  • remember to lube the adjuster! uncsrew it and put some lube on the threads

  • @360treflipskater360 Yes...not just oil, but an anti-seize or anti-rusting agent, especially in the Northeast.

  • @Turbo231 yup just learned how to do this in my automotive technology class in highschool today so much fun

  • i watched this vid becasue i have to disasemble and reasemble disk and drum brakes for auto shop and the way my dad said it confused the fuck out of me and this clearded it up

    thanks.

    and i made me one of those little spring pullers u have

  • this is a good video keep up the work

  • wow, drum brakes are complicated

  • @BYMYSYD They are complicated, but their design keeps dirt out...they certainly have their place in the automotive world.

  • Nice vid... My 94 caprice 9c1 has 4 wheel disc brakes. From my understanding, they're easier to work with?

  • They can be...here in Maine, rear disks tend to be problematic due to corrosion issues. Because drums are enclosed, tend to last longer. Work wise they are about the same. Rear brakes don't do a lot of work anyways, so under heavy use disks would do better, but normal operation would be moot.

  • Good tutorial, never would of thought the parking brake adjusted anything. Thanks for the vid!

  • is all this pretty much universal for car to car with drum brakes?

  • Universal for general motors cars, pretty close otherwise.

  • k thanks cause i gotta do a all around brake replacement on an 89 dodge colt (mfd in japan though) disc in front drum in the back and i was wondering.

  • if you place your finger on the pin then you can keep it in place and it makes your life a whole lo easier

  • haha @ 2:30 good idea

  • Thank you. Good info.

  • Hey thanks man. It looks a lot easier than i thought. I was going to take it in, but i think i can manage this one by myself.

  • make sure you tighten them lugs and test it a bunch of times b4 u get on the interstate

  • I did a set on a Dodge neon. The Brake material came unglued from its metal backing. Locked the wheel up in place. The adjuster screw was PITA to get it to release. I installed new shoes and springs on both wheels. Did all of this in the middle of winter outside while it was 10 degrees outside while sitting in the snow.. I made $40 that day.

    Its true about the states that uses salt on the roads. It does seize the rear disk calipers. Done a few of those myself.

  • If you have not done this before , either make a drawing of the brake and spring set up before you start disassembling or if you have a digital camera...take several photos ...could be an aggravation saver....I spray everything down with brake cleaner to remove the dirt and dust, i also use a good quality lithium grease on the star wheel and other metal to metal connections...everything looks cleaner and works better...

  • And also only do one at a time...that way you always have the "assembled" unit as a reference. Lithium grease or most any anti-seize products just to keep things from freezing up...and use your parking brake, it keeps the system healthy.

  • hey does last 3 minutes you forwarded sucked and i really wanted to see how you put all the springs inn

  • Yeah...just watch me take them out. Youtube limits uploads to 10 minutes, had to pinch it to get it to fit in time.

  • Chipmonk mode is hillarious

  • Just curious.. You said that your Dad made that spring puller. It looks like a life saver and made the replacement soo much easier.. Any idea of what he used to make it from?

  • It's actually a dent puller. It's hardened steel wire with a basic T-handle.

  • Thank God both my vehicles have disc brakes all the way around! It's soo much easier to replace the pads.

    Great job on the drum shoes replacement. Gives someone an idea of what they're up against in replacing them.

  • While technically true, their are issues with disk brakes in the back in the rust belt. Here salt exposure tends to seize the calipers, thus requiring the replacement of the entire assembly when not taken care of. Drums tend to provide protection to the brake equipment inside. Also, GM has had issues with rear disks on several 90's cars...so it's good and the bad. My S-10 with 4 wheel disks stops faster and harder then any other car I own. Thanks for the comment. :)

  • errrr... yeah I think I'll just let my mechanic keep up his good work, only cause I trust him and I can only afford to do this once. Mad respect :)

  • Just to let a begginer know these are brake shoes not break pads that he's changing. Tip always only take apart one side so you can go back to see where the springs went and how things went back together by looking at other side that's not taken apart.

  • Good video, I hate that rust lip, what a pain.

  • Awesome video, this reminds me of the one that Dave did, thanks for sharing

    Peace :)

  • thanks for the vid man i totaly love this kinda vids from you 5/5

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