Custom Kitchen Cabinets part 2

[ian99943]

why you not got a tennener, it would save you mega amounts of time.

I make Kitchens and use a tennener for the shaker doors so easy and quick as for the groove i use one of my spindle moulders to put the groove in again too easy.

40 doors takes me on my own to machine and put together the best part of one day.

[s37d]

8:07 remote start vacuum - cool

[angelcarnivore]

Really helpful to watch and see what's involved. It helps you appreciate the hard work that goes into beautiful cabinets.

[MrJones706]

Bahhh! Shaved your beard off. Dude, you need your own t.v show..

[farmerrey]

@MrJones706 Trying man... just need someone to press the "yup" button

[dopamine83]

Love your videos. I was naive to think making custon cabinets was relatively easy. It is not! It's a long process.

[mrdreydean]

I love these videos!!! I am an amateur. My wife and I just bought our first house and I am trying to make some cabinets. Your videos have helped me sooo much learn a great way to make the cabinets. I envy your lifestyle, if I had a great shop like yours I would be very content! Quick question, is there a location that I can find standard cabinet measurements or is it just something I have to learn with time?

[farmerrey]

@mrdreydean Base cabinets typically have a 24" depth. Uppers vary. Mine end up at 12 3/4" deep. Base heights are typically 34 1/2" tall, uppers vary. Of course, widths all depend on design

[Greeneyez2475]

@farmerrey Awesome videos. Quick question. Would building the frame and doors/drawers out of solid wood, then the "carcass" out of plywood work?

[farmerrey]

@Greeneyez2475 That is exactly what I do in the videos

[guzmanfann]

OSHA AND his safety supervisor and his foreman would have fined him, because he wasn't using anything safe so cloe to saw blade with his finger only about half inch from the blade other than that good video.

[farmerrey]

@guzmanfann Still have all ten man. I'm quite careful, but thanks for the concern.

[nasarazam]

@MikeGartman: Yes, I am a novice and I will try and minimize (not eliminate) chances of injury by getting sawstop. I do not understand why my simple observation is blown out of proportion!!!!! I do admit and have said this before; these are some of the best videos I have seen and these videos were extremely helpful.

[dustinhaugh]

I also run a custom cabinet shop, but watching others doing the same thing I always get new ideas to fine tune the process. These videos were put together very well and I can tell you are very knowledgeable. Thanks for taking the time to do these!

[farmerrey]

@dustinhaugh Thanks man... it's always and evolving process eh?

[zymerguyer]

haha!! "...and shave my beard off"  awesome

[nasarazam]

Apology if I offended you. It just so happens that I like the videos a lot and watch them many times. My questions are more of a curiosity and learning. Me posting videos !!!! I am in the Kindergarten of Woodworking and most of my knowledge is mostly theoretical (and it probably shows by my questions).

Apology again, it is just that I use your videos as a tutorial and have learned MOST from watching your videos with lots of attention. Believe me, I have learned a LOT from your responses.

[nasarazam]

It also crossed my mind that to actually do the mortises for very long pieces and then rip and cross cut them into many smaller rails and stiles . (you still have to do the tenons). Using this approach, all your rails and stiles will have exactly same mortises.

[nasarazam]

Changing the sequence of steps:

When doing the Doors, Would it make sense (safety wise) to NOT cut the Rails and style to the actual width but have one piece for stile and one for rail; each just over double the width of single piece. you then cut mortises and tenons (two pieces instead of four). Due to the wider width, your hands are further away from the blade.

Only after the mortises and tenons are done, you rip each piece into two to get two rails and two stiles.

[farmerrey]

@nasarazam Do your own thing man, I'll do it the way that I, and most everyone else, has done it for years. Different strokes for different folks. I'm starting to disapprove your picking each of my steps apart. Do your own videos if you feel you know so much.

[nasarazam]

Thanks for ALL your replies. You are the best !

[nasarazam]

One more thing....... Please get yourself a Sawstop. You look very confident (..over confident) moving your hands so close to the blade in many of your cuts. I was getting nervous and thought will share this reminder with you !

[farmerrey]

@nasarazam Thanks for the tip... don't think I haven't thunk about it

[MikeGartman]

@nasarazam If you feel like you need a Saw Stop to be safe get one. Those of us who have been using a table saw for years have learned not to make the kind of stupid mistakes a Saw Stop will save you from.

To some degree, the more safety is built into tools, the more careless users will become.

[nasarazam]

Thanks for the prompt reply. I never realized about the heat generated by using the router bit. As a hobbyist, I seldom do more then couple of doors, but with your explanation, I learnt a new thing.

Once you use Domino, you will be impressed.

I understand that you have to use the solid panel doors,but I still do not understand why you would use the good part (raised part) as an inside of the door???

[farmerrey]

@nasarazam raised part on the inside to give the shaker style door more mass. a 1/4" solid panel would run the risk of cupping

[nasarazam]

Wouldn't doing stop Dados on a Router table and using Festool Dominos be easier and faster then doing all tenons and mortises? I understand that doing Stop Dados on Table Saw may not be desirable but i thought on a Router Table it is much easier. Again, I am just a beginner, these questions are for more get a bit enlightened and use the easiest way to build cabinets. I have done Flat Panel Doors using Router Table and Dominos and thought that was easier and faster.

[farmerrey]

@nasarazam Using a router to mill stop datos is not necessarily faster. After about the 5'th door the bit would start to burn from the heat generated. this is because the bit is removing material perpendicular the the motion of the stock vs. parallel to the motion of the stock when using the tablesaw or shaper. I'm not sold on the domino.

[nasarazam]

In the example of the Door you showed (3:45), I do not understand why you would have a flat panel outside and raised one inside !!!

[farmerrey]

@nasarazam a true shaker style door still has a 1/2" panel, hence the raised panel on the inside. Yes... using a 1/4" plywood panel would be "easier", but we use solid wood for our doors as our customers expect it.

[txluke]

Grow the beard back and use a push block! Love these vids.

[MrMatison]

How do you eliminate chip-out when cutting end pieces? Is it a special blade?

[farmerrey]

@MrMatison end pieces???

[tjstrott25]

@MrMatison if you run the blade through slowly it won't chip as easily

[TheWigginssisters]

Great Videos, I'm a carpenter planning to build my own kitchen cabinets, ? do you ever build a face frame to cover the run of cabinetry, instead of having 2" stile butting the next cabinet of 2' stile. Which doesn't look like a custom unit. Thanks

[farmerrey]

@TheWigginssisters I do two 1" vertical stiles where two face frames abut each other. When the cabinets are all fastened together a run of cabinetry looks like one giant face frame.

[leopaldbutters]

is it easier to do your rails and stiles on the table saw rather than the shaper?

[farmerrey]

@leopaldbutters I think it works well for shaker style doors. If I'm running a bunch of doors with profiles then I use the shaper with feeder for the sticking, and a second shaper for my copes. I don't like offsetting my grooves with shaker style doors, I know it will be perfectly centered with the tablesaw. I know, a little archaic, but when you've done hundreds of them this way you can bang them out awful quick

[32bala]

very good videos man i wish to have that size the shop you got there ,there is any particular reason you put the raised panel in the inside

[farmerrey]

@32bala with shaker style doors (flat panel) I like to put the raised panel on the inside to add a bit of weight and stability to the door.

[surfflyfish4striper]

you know your craft.. great video. what are those board holders( spring) you used when you joined the 2 board

[farmerrey]

@surfflyfish4striper pipe clamps

[nasarazam]

What make/brand Table saw do you use?

[nasarazam]

Thanks for the reply and educating me. Your videos are one the best I have seen.

thanks much

[nasarazam]

You can probably make this step go a little faster using Festool Domino instead of cutting the tenons.

[farmerrey]

@nasarazam disagree... there is the problem of how to deal with the grooves in the styles where they meet the rails.  Doing stop grooves takes too much time.

[nasarazam]

Thanks for educating me. I love your videos - among the very best.

BTW, What Table Saw do you use?

[farmerrey]

@nasarazam it is a delta unisaw, 5 hp 220v single phase

[MultiTom69]

are you a mennonite Chris? or are you in a slow race against yourself making doors?? haha

i guess your not a mennonite being that you shaved your beard waiting for glue to dry! keep up good work , your the man.... haha

[Skip28060]

Chris - two questions about the face frames...getting ready to cut mine. 1) What is the width of your side and horizontal face frames? 2) I'm confused on where you attach these to the cabinet...how much overhang is there inside and outside the cabinet front? I am building inset cabinet doors and drawers w/ the bead mold. You can say you have provided an EXCELLENT model and method.

Skip

[Skip28060]

Chris - I'm confused as to your faceframe dimensions? Did you say you build them to fit flush with the insides of the cabinet carcass? Can you explain why you do this...and then...what is the total width of the sides of the faceframe. I think I'm wrong, but it sounds like the sides of the face frames would be about 3/4 inch...to fit the width of the carcass. Tx,

[Skip28060]

Chris - similar to my question about the 3/8 inch deep groove in rails/stiles, how thick is the edge of the raised panel after going thru shaper. I've never had a consistent thickness on these.  Be nice to always have the same target here.

Tx, Skip

[Skip28060]

Chris - for your rails and stiles, I understand that the panel groove is 1/3 inch deep, centered by cutting twice on the table saw. How wide do you cut this?  I've always had trouble figuring out how wide to make this cut.

Tx, Skip

[farmerrey]

@Skip28060 Skip, I try to make the groove around a 1/4 inch wide, my dato head is a little less than a 1/4, but when run twice it ends up around a 1/4. My joinery and panels are based off from the groove. The panel "tongue" is a bit smaller than the groove. First step is to plane the panels down so when laid flat next to the r's and s's you see about 1/32 of the groove. I make a relief cut with the table saw, then finish with the shaper.

[bojohn7]

what was the tool name you used to finish the grove? something like tengative gig?

[Sigpilot97]

Nicely done! Can't wait until the next project. Norm is no longer doing the New Yankee so maybe you can carry the woodworking torch now.

[bassdaze]

Hilarious !!!! How you could keep a straight face when turning around to the camera, while waiting around for the panels to dry shaved my beard up...

LOL for sure on that one.. btw, nice work...

[pansexuality]

Not so very concerned about safety are we?