In my childhood (1960's) I remeber commercially produced light fittings here in GB that used a special incandescent lamp with a 4 pin cap that incorporated a starter. I still have a fitting in the loft that uses a length of resistive wire inside as a ballast.
@sentinel040 I've seen catalogue photocopies that refer to a 'tungsten ballast' for use where a blend of incandescent and fluorescent is required, these probably the bulbs you're talking about.
I also have a fitting with a long resistive wire inside as a ballast and a bayonet cap on the top for use in a standard light socket.
@P42STUFF The fitting in the loft (which I brought with me from another house) is not quite as exotic as yours, this a bit more standard in that it is a 4 foot bi-pin wall/batten mounting type.
I am not sure if the fittings i referred to were designed for a balanced light output of if it was just a way of cutting cost, or both!
@sentinel040 It's sound strange to use a resistor though because of the heavy heat losses, there's 65W of heat loss in the 20W light I said about so efficiency is terrible. This 4ft batten of yours sounds interesting to me because resistors were only normally used on DC circuits before the days of electronic ballasts with semi conductors.
That is neat!! I have gotta do something similar. I have an incandescent lamp unit almost identical to yours. I also have a F14T12 fixture. Will this work about the same with a F14 lamp?
how is it started
fairyheli2 2 weeks ago
Wow Idid not know you could combine both lamps like that.,cool.
66kerekes 1 month ago
Can I use this on 230V 50hz AC ???
MikiElectronic 4 months ago
could you please give me the name of that lady singing in the back ground.
MAKEAL 6 months ago
@MAKEAL silver light - alpha
SoUhYeaPrettyMuch 3 months ago
How was the lifespan of the fluorescent tube affected? What was the measured voltage across the incandescent bulb?
umloginqualquer 8 months ago
A 100w lamp won't work for European tubes.
turgi65 1 year ago
I'm going to assume that the over-current on the first test was due to the carbon lamp -- which is current-hungry, itself.
Madness832 1 year ago
In my childhood (1960's) I remeber commercially produced light fittings here in GB that used a special incandescent lamp with a 4 pin cap that incorporated a starter. I still have a fitting in the loft that uses a length of resistive wire inside as a ballast.
sentinel040 1 year ago
@sentinel040 I've seen catalogue photocopies that refer to a 'tungsten ballast' for use where a blend of incandescent and fluorescent is required, these probably the bulbs you're talking about.
I also have a fitting with a long resistive wire inside as a ballast and a bayonet cap on the top for use in a standard light socket.
P42STUFF 1 year ago
@P42STUFF The fitting in the loft (which I brought with me from another house) is not quite as exotic as yours, this a bit more standard in that it is a 4 foot bi-pin wall/batten mounting type.
I am not sure if the fittings i referred to were designed for a balanced light output of if it was just a way of cutting cost, or both!
sentinel040 1 year ago
@sentinel040 It's sound strange to use a resistor though because of the heavy heat losses, there's 65W of heat loss in the 20W light I said about so efficiency is terrible. This 4ft batten of yours sounds interesting to me because resistors were only normally used on DC circuits before the days of electronic ballasts with semi conductors.
Do you know the approximate age of it? :D
P42STUFF 1 year ago
That is neat!! I have gotta do something similar. I have an incandescent lamp unit almost identical to yours. I also have a F14T12 fixture. Will this work about the same with a F14 lamp?
TheDieselNut 1 year ago
g33ky cool, Tweek. :D
slworking2 1 year ago