Added: 3 years ago
From: oellrichm
Views: 33,808
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  • 7:00 Should not let the caliper hang by the brake line...use a piece of wire or string to hang it from something sturdy.

  • thanks for the video in canada the clappers has hax bolts a pain in the ass.

  • Helpful video to me. I was wondering how to get that seal out.

  • wat about the brake bleding thing? my mechanick told me he would chage me 120 for just changing my front and rear pads but screw him now!do i have to bleed my brakes if im just changing pads/

  • @77kutdog Bleeding is recommended for vehicles with ABS brakes, although recommended for all vehicles to open bleeders to compress calipers, you can just push them back in if the fluid isnt too nasty most of the time it work fine

  • DUDE your a genius..... this video is one of the more helpful ones on here.... thank you very much

  • Fine job Good Sir. Fine job indeed.

  • Excellent video!

    Thank you for the instructions and the tips.

    If I can do it right the first time my mechanic will not see my face and laugh about it

  • great vid thank you

  • The bearing was not packed with grease correctly, it didn't even look like it was cleaned in solvent.

  • For those watching this video, please dont ever hang your caliper on the brake hose. Can easily brake your hose. Just some input. Good video!

  • I've never heard of putting grease on the back of the pads or on the caliper piston!

  • @CoolasIce2 Yes, It helps in noise and squeal reduction and prevents back of pad from rusting and swelling up causing a soft pedal feel

  • Appreciate the video. It was quite helpful in giving me insight into fixing my 97 Ram. Thanks much!

  • nice video, very helpful, thanks

  • Really great video, concise and entertaining!

  • i bought lucas multi purpose ep grase,,, would that be ok for the bearing grease

  • Excellant video, Thanks!!!

  • Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience and love your music. Blessings to you and yours.

    Jared

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  • though one thing you didn't do is to peen the brake shoe tabs (that sit on the iron brake caliper mounts) with a hammer using a downward stroke on a block of wood surface (to prevent damage along with Goop automotive is what I use on my B350) for snug fit to help prevent brake shoe rattle - a common problem on these systems in hot weather.

    Also a C-clamp may need to be used to repostion the loaded caliper w/ fresh brake pads on the new rotor (vent the brake resevior while doing this)

  • I tighten the spindle nut until snug, then back off about 1/4 turn for proper adjustment - otherwise great vid!

  • you neeed to press out the outter race and press the outter race in the new rotor.. and way to much grease.. bearing grease is a high temp grease and will not liquify if you do it right!

  • Don't need a press for the bearing races, they can be knocked out with a punch or a socket extension, as for going in a wood dowel work well to knock them in without damaging them. I never said the grease would "liqify". I said it will become fluid like meaning i will act like a fluid over time and it will run away from the bearings. Also I have never had a bearing failure so I must be doing something right. Better to over lube than to under lube :-)

  • I'm looking at replacing both my rear calipers and pads as one of them is shot in my 04' dakota. Is there anything you would recommend I need to know before I get started. I might go ahead and change the brake fluid too. I've never personally done a break job on this truck. The shop wanted $400. :) What's the best brand too?

  • awesome! finally found a video of front truck rotors with the studs/hub on the rotor! great video, thanks =]

  • Great video !! I actually have bad bearings & no idea how to get at them & here it is, THANKS

  • Don't forget that if the bearings are bad you might want to knock the races out of the rotors and install new ones, unless you put new rotors on then they will have new races already in them

  • way too much grease just for the bearings

  • You have to fille the inside of the rotor hub between the races or the grease you put in the bearing will run out of them and into the empty space, heat and centrifugal force will allow the grease become more fluid like, Filling the hub keeps the grease in the bearings from flowing out.

  • OELLRICHM,

    nice work.

  • great video...do you think much would change about doing my brakes on an 06 dakota? process in probably very close? Thanks for posting this!

  • Caliper will come off similar to the video with 2 bolts and then the pads are housed in a seperate bracket instead of clipped to the caliper. The seperate bracket will come off with 2 bolts and that will give you access to the rotor. You won't have to pack any wheel bearings and the rotor should come off with a hammer hit or 2 between the wheel studs if you need to change out the rotors or have them resurfaced.

  • Wait wait, where's the part where you shatter 4 impact sockets and end up using the 3 foot pipe wih the 1/2 inch breaker bar and still split 3 more sockets before those lugs come off? Hahahaha! Do you like take that apart twice a week and clean it? Lol I'd like to send you a pic of my buddies farm truck, the entire back half of the rotor is gone, completely lol when I do the other side I'll tape it for ya's lmao, this oughtta be good. This is good for basics though.

  • Ha Ha Ha, put taiwan tools away, Nope I just keep up with regular maint. like tire rotations brake inspections and tighten wheels to torque.

    Keep watching my channel as I am making a video on doing an all "bolt-on" dual exhaust system from cat to bumper

  • resisting arrest

  • well can I comment 2 things thats been done wrong? well (1) never ever hang caliper by the brake line and should be hang by safety wire. (2) you should open the bleeder when pushing piston back in caliper so that old fuild drain out, after pistion is fully pushed in then close bleeder. That way you will still have good brake pedels stiffness. I am not here to flame anything but just my commnet thanks.

  • I always just pulled the cap off the brake fuid res.  Not as messy.

  • Yes on a vehicle with ABS that is recommended to open bleeders to prevent debris from being pushed into the ABS control valve unit. However this truck is not abs equipped. Yes a caliper should be supported however most hose damage comes from shock of a caliper falling and being caught by the hose.

  • great video!! helps a lot ..very easy to follow

  • thanksw man awsome

  • Great video! To bad the newer dakotas don't have re-packable bearings.

  • Thanks!

  • song sounds like one stolen from a sleezy 70's porn vid

  • I agree :-) , but it is "youtube aprroved copyrighted material" lol

  • great video ! even the Spanish comment says it is.

  • Es el mejor video que he visto muy grafico y totalmente elocuente, felicitaciones. gracias,gracias

  • U got too much spare time!! lol

  • It was a cool video. I bet lots of camera time was involved.

  • The brake job actually took 3 hours on that side to fill up my 2 gig card and then had to use another 1 gig card in the camera, The other side got same exact service and only took me 15 minutes with out the camera.

  • good video. good instruction for a beginner however, i was a little shocked that you didnt put a torque wrench on the spindle nut to ensure the bearings were seated to OEM spec. otherwise good work.

  • Yeah that was purely my 14 years shop experience taking over on the spindle nut torque. :)

  • Great video. Very well done. Are the steps similar with the 4WD models?

  • Thank you. :) I shot over 2 gig of video and 4 hours of editing to make it.

    If autozone web site didn't lie then it would be very similar with the exception of having to pack wheel bearing. The 4wd rotor should slip off of the hub with a hammer hit or 2 (depending on rust)

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