What about if you put a small (something with as little friction as possible like a ball barring setup or magnetic flux area by magnets on the structural plate) bump on the structural plates as the wheel spins that would lower the wheel that split second then raise it back up after the bump thereby losing the sticky point ?
@ggibney0856 Moving the wheel the required amount would require considerably more force than moving just the stator magnet, so is not advisable. Moving the stator up and down, as was shown demonstrated by hand in video #3, could be very effective, and is a method I will be soon be experimenting with. A counterweight, draped over a pulley above the stator, could limit the force required to lift the stator to a half ounce or less, and a cam and lever arrangement could be used for lift and drop.
Perfect for science kids Rick, in fact i think i might show a few kids this, flawless presentation my friend thanks a lot Rick. Keep up the good work M8!
Why are you teasing us? Stop touching the wheel and simply start it and let us see what it does. Obviously you have not seen the Roney Stator on YouTube. He also uses a bike wheel and you would learn a lot from his channel. Your stator is flawed do to the metal/magnetic nuts you use.
I am teaching, not teasing, so learn and be patient, please. Evidently, you haven't learned anything yet because I use only stainless steel nuts, and stainless and brass screws for the stator mountings.
Again, Roney's experiments are about magnetic shielding, and mine are not. I don't use it, and don't need it.
Stainless steel is still steel. Evidently, you haven't learned anything yet because stainless steel nuts are magnetic because they have steel in them. Hence the name, stainless steel. The James Roney stator allows for torque, where as non-shielded stators do not. Mylows wonderful device is a great example. It works wonderfully, but there's no torque. The Roney stator opens a new door of possibilities. Thank you for your efforts, nonetheless.
All stainless steels with the exception of austenitic stainless steels are magnetic. Google it if you do not believe me. All austenitic grades have very low magnetic permeabilities and hence show almost no response to a magnet when in the annealed condition.
Yes, of course stainless steel has steel in it, and some stainless steel is magnetic. Most ss fasteners, though, are made of 304 alloy, which is high in nickel content, and the nickel prevents the steel crystals from aligning in magnetic attraction. I can place any of my ss fasteners directly against the strong HD magnet, and there is no attraction whatever.
I think that after watching video #13 you will understand why a shielded stator is not needed, and would only detract from my the potential torque and rpm that are possible in my MOSTAT (moving stator) methods. To put it simply, my MOSTAT methods use all encountered forces of attraction and repulsion to the utmost advantage. Shielding my stator magnet from any of these forces of advantage would produce losses, rather than gains. You may not understand this yet, but you will in time. :)
When shopping for your fasteners, take a small magnet with you and test them to be certain they are non-magnetic. If shopping online, specify that you want non-magnetic fasteners. If you can't find them in stainless, brass or nylon machine screws will do just fine.
You are correct that you must move the stator arm away from the rim in order to maintain continuous rotation.
You would find that should you calculate the work done to lift the stator arm away from the rim would equal the energy lost due to friction of the bearings and air resistance to the spokes. At low velocity, the work needed to keep it rotating is very small. Thus the work needed to move the stator arm would also be very small, and will not be provided (in any way) by the rotor.
I understand the viewpoint where you are coming from. It is possible, of course, that my small rotor magnets may not produce enough attraction and repulsion force to keep the stator moving, but that remains to be seen.
If there is insufficient force, then I only need to use stronger rotor magnets to achieve continuous movement, so that's no problem to me with my design. Further, I will not be lifting the stator in my build. I only described this method in case someone wants to pursue it. Instead, I will be moving the stator magnet horizontally, back and forth 1" across the rim. There will be only 1" of travel per 10" of rim travel through each group.
In between groups, the stator magnet will not need to move at all, so zero resistance there. Since all horizontal movement of the stator is achieved with relative ease, certainly you must see how the strong attraction and repulsion forces involved will be able to accomplish what is required. I will also be adding a heavy flywheel (3/4" birch plywood ring) to the opposite side of the wheel to add a hefty flywheel effect that will provide forward inertia sufficient to counteract any drag effect.
Incidentally, since you mentioned the bearings, this was a junked wheel - rusted, bent, and the bearings are wicked bad. You probably can't hear it during the videos, but the bearings sound like they have sand in them as they rotate, and that's no joke. I don't mind, though, as the wheel was free and I figure that if I can get this one working then a new one will do ever that much better.
I should aslo point out that, for anyone interested in the stator lifting method discussed in this video, that the strong repulsive force that causes the braking effect can be utilized to provide all, or nearly all of the lifting force that would be required, with no anti-rotational resistance from friction or drag.
What about if you put a small (something with as little friction as possible like a ball barring setup or magnetic flux area by magnets on the structural plate) bump on the structural plates as the wheel spins that would lower the wheel that split second then raise it back up after the bump thereby losing the sticky point ?
ggibney0856 1 year ago
@ggibney0856 Moving the wheel the required amount would require considerably more force than moving just the stator magnet, so is not advisable. Moving the stator up and down, as was shown demonstrated by hand in video #3, could be very effective, and is a method I will be soon be experimenting with. A counterweight, draped over a pulley above the stator, could limit the force required to lift the stator to a half ounce or less, and a cam and lever arrangement could be used for lift and drop.
TheRickoff 1 year ago
Perfect for science kids Rick, in fact i think i might show a few kids this, flawless presentation my friend thanks a lot Rick. Keep up the good work M8!
sincerely
Ash
ashtweth 2 years ago
Thanks, Ash. Glad to see you in here, and to know you are enjoying this. Your comments are always appreciated. Best regards to you. :)
TheRickoff 2 years ago
Why are you teasing us? Stop touching the wheel and simply start it and let us see what it does. Obviously you have not seen the Roney Stator on YouTube. He also uses a bike wheel and you would learn a lot from his channel. Your stator is flawed do to the metal/magnetic nuts you use.
YouTooArchives 2 years ago
I am teaching, not teasing, so learn and be patient, please. Evidently, you haven't learned anything yet because I use only stainless steel nuts, and stainless and brass screws for the stator mountings.
Again, Roney's experiments are about magnetic shielding, and mine are not. I don't use it, and don't need it.
TheRickoff 2 years ago
Stainless steel is still steel. Evidently, you haven't learned anything yet because stainless steel nuts are magnetic because they have steel in them. Hence the name, stainless steel. The James Roney stator allows for torque, where as non-shielded stators do not. Mylows wonderful device is a great example. It works wonderfully, but there's no torque. The Roney stator opens a new door of possibilities. Thank you for your efforts, nonetheless.
YouTooArchives 2 years ago
All stainless steels with the exception of austenitic stainless steels are magnetic. Google it if you do not believe me. All austenitic grades have very low magnetic permeabilities and hence show almost no response to a magnet when in the annealed condition.
YouTooArchives 2 years ago
Yes, of course stainless steel has steel in it, and some stainless steel is magnetic. Most ss fasteners, though, are made of 304 alloy, which is high in nickel content, and the nickel prevents the steel crystals from aligning in magnetic attraction. I can place any of my ss fasteners directly against the strong HD magnet, and there is no attraction whatever.
TheRickoff 2 years ago
I think that after watching video #13 you will understand why a shielded stator is not needed, and would only detract from my the potential torque and rpm that are possible in my MOSTAT (moving stator) methods. To put it simply, my MOSTAT methods use all encountered forces of attraction and repulsion to the utmost advantage. Shielding my stator magnet from any of these forces of advantage would produce losses, rather than gains. You may not understand this yet, but you will in time. :)
TheRickoff 2 years ago
When shopping for your fasteners, take a small magnet with you and test them to be certain they are non-magnetic. If shopping online, specify that you want non-magnetic fasteners. If you can't find them in stainless, brass or nylon machine screws will do just fine.
TheRickoff 2 years ago
You are correct that you must move the stator arm away from the rim in order to maintain continuous rotation.
You would find that should you calculate the work done to lift the stator arm away from the rim would equal the energy lost due to friction of the bearings and air resistance to the spokes. At low velocity, the work needed to keep it rotating is very small. Thus the work needed to move the stator arm would also be very small, and will not be provided (in any way) by the rotor.
1221takacs 2 years ago
Hi takacs,
I understand the viewpoint where you are coming from. It is possible, of course, that my small rotor magnets may not produce enough attraction and repulsion force to keep the stator moving, but that remains to be seen.
TheRickoff 2 years ago
If there is insufficient force, then I only need to use stronger rotor magnets to achieve continuous movement, so that's no problem to me with my design. Further, I will not be lifting the stator in my build. I only described this method in case someone wants to pursue it. Instead, I will be moving the stator magnet horizontally, back and forth 1" across the rim. There will be only 1" of travel per 10" of rim travel through each group.
TheRickoff 2 years ago
In between groups, the stator magnet will not need to move at all, so zero resistance there. Since all horizontal movement of the stator is achieved with relative ease, certainly you must see how the strong attraction and repulsion forces involved will be able to accomplish what is required. I will also be adding a heavy flywheel (3/4" birch plywood ring) to the opposite side of the wheel to add a hefty flywheel effect that will provide forward inertia sufficient to counteract any drag effect.
TheRickoff 2 years ago
Incidentally, since you mentioned the bearings, this was a junked wheel - rusted, bent, and the bearings are wicked bad. You probably can't hear it during the videos, but the bearings sound like they have sand in them as they rotate, and that's no joke. I don't mind, though, as the wheel was free and I figure that if I can get this one working then a new one will do ever that much better.
TheRickoff 2 years ago
I should aslo point out that, for anyone interested in the stator lifting method discussed in this video, that the strong repulsive force that causes the braking effect can be utilized to provide all, or nearly all of the lifting force that would be required, with no anti-rotational resistance from friction or drag.
TheRickoff 2 years ago