Added: 4 years ago
From: chrisknight000
Views: 68,521
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  • Part 4 needs to be reloaded please. Won't play. Thank you.

  • cmon dude take your 3 gallon pot to the stove in the kitchen this propane stuff is unnecessary

  • Part #4 will not play ??

  • Nice dance moves!

  • Comment removed

  • I can't wait to try this one day I wanna make a flavored ipa like orange or ginger.What micro brews would you recomend? I work in a beer store so I have a huge variety.

  • @chrisknight000 Where did you get that instant read thermometer.

  • I'm Supprised no one talked about oxidation after seeing Chris dump all that hot wort he ran off into the bucket.

  • @docholidyyy no one talked about oxidation because prior to pitching yeast you actually want air in the wort. It aids yeast in doing its job to make yummy beer. Oxidation is only a big factor after you've pitched yeast and are in your fermenting stage.

  • @docholidyyy lol yeah I noticed that...

  • Once the grain bed in the mash/ lauter tun has been established, it's not the best idea to stir the sparge water in, as is suggested here. By stirring, you're completely altering the grain bed, which will not only increase sparging time but decrease yield.

  • @redscape - That would be true for fly sparging, but Chris is batch sparging. The grain bed becomes re-established by letting the grain sit for 10mins, then vorlauf. It's also better to sparge *2* times after the initial runoff, as you'll extract more sugars. It takes a bit longer, but it's worth it.

  • Ending my response from part 4; "I'd rather drink a "Precise Beer" any day of the week:)) Great set of videos.

  • Chris, I am looking into a brew pot. Is a 20 quart sufficient size for all-grain and extract brewing...? Or is it too small for all grain?

  • It is sufficient for extract brewing since you add water to make 5 gallons after the boil in the fermenter, with all grain, you need 6.5 gallons of wort to boil down to 5 gallons. 20 quarts (5 gallons) won't be large enough.

    You will need at least 7 gallon brewpot for all grain.

  • All-grain vs extract is really a separate issue from full boil vs partial boil. For doing full boils you need at least an 8 gallon kettle. 10 is really the practical minimum without having to worry about boilovers.

  • why did you sparge with so little water?

    isn't the ratio supposed to be 1.5/2 times the water you use for mashing?

  • Great video set. Aren't you worried about hot side aeration from pouring to the boil pot from the bucket?

  • Hey Mike, What size is your mash tun and brew kettle? Thanks for the video.

  • I guess I could get the name right!! Sorry Chris.

  • it's long division!!!!

  • Chris, use some tin foil with a bunch of holes punched in it and put that on top of the grain bed. No worries about vorlaufing. Cheap and easy. Works great

  • Very nice job putting these videos together. I like taking a look at other peoples processes. I batch sparge myself. You commented on how your second runnings were very light. Myself, I like to mash for 45min to an hour at around 145 to get more fermentable sugars. Then do another mash at 155 for non-fermentables. My second runnings are only very slightly more pale then my first. I dont worry about tannins since after all is said and done its still shorter then fly sparging.

  • Chris, I noticed that after you did the first runnings you added the sparge water all at once. I am new to brewing and have read about sparging slow. Is you way better or just faster? Same results?

  • There are 2 schools of thought on sparging. Batch sparge (what I do) and fly sparging. Fly sparging is more efficient as far as extraction is concerned. However, batch sparging is a heck of a lot faster and you don't need to be worried about "mashing out" with batch sparging because the heat is on faster, killing off the enzymes. For the loss of extraction efficiency, just add a pound or 2 of your base malt to your grain bill to make up.

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