Added: 3 years ago
From: asusreviews
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  • It's not shorting..

  • read my patent on that electrode it will help you understand some things about the cups. You have whats called current leak. Its from uneven spaced cup. Also you have to attach one lead to the top of one of the center allthreads and the other to the bottom of the all thread. But remember the one going to the bottom if you run it in the electrolytic solution if anything is (in the connection wire exposed) you will have current leak there. I run a 3rd all thread down the side but it has a

  • @dallasgoldbug plastic tube slipped over it to stop the current leak. Also you must use a PWM with the cups. They are so efficient due to their shape they will cause the current to rise and water to heat up. the PWM will increase the performance and cut you power draw feel free to contact me with any questions about the electrode

  • HEAT IS THe PROBLEM in a long run = 12-13 Ampz

    nice cell...

  • use 2in stainless steel washers.. they work the best!!

  • what is the boobler used for?

  • It is reading thru liquid

  • looks good young man, your doing just fine, its called a learning curve....keep on that curve.....

    thom scotland.

  • kid do me a fave and give up lol if you dont knw what the beep is and cant work out why there is no beep when its apart you will never do it without harming yourself (and if u do manage i'll be amased)

  • nice one asusreviews I think even at .7 ltrs a min you stated 700ml p min I think, youve already surpased the amount required for the injection into a modern petrol engine EFI system. I think you require .2 ltrs a min for a 1.3 ltr engine on tic over

    but my figures i worked out a couple of years ago may be incorrect im sure someone here will be able to correct me if im wrong. please keep us informed !!

  • for safty stuff look into my hydrogen studys playlist and look up the bubbler thats on there. oh and look into hhopowere what ever his name and he should give you from his videos pointers about preparing your car for hydrogen.

  • Seems like you have a loose or bad connection somewhere in the cell ?

  • An update for everyone: I did another test after doing a couple slight mods, and I am now getting .7 liters per minute @ 12-13 amps. The cell has not been conditioned and baking soda is being used. I predict that after cleaning the cell a bit, and using KOH, I should be able to get about a liter per minute at 15 amps!

  • @ BIGIN SF

    I have also experimented with tighter plate spacing, but felt it didn't make much of a difference. I assembled a 10 cup cell with 1/8" spacing, it worked well with very little electrolyte, but I wasn't able to test gas output.

    I have a bubbler made out of the same 3" ABS pipe.

    1 liter a minute at under 15 amps is what I'm after. How many neutral cups do you have? Please tell me what plate config your using, and plate spacing. Pictures or a video would be appreciated!! TY

  • What type of bubbler do you use? Mine is just like this with same sauce cups, but with neutral plates, closer spacing and holes in the bottom for better thermal migration. I also built a reservoir/bubbler in one making it a fully saturated cell design for better cooling. 1 litre/min at 12-13 amps on a running vehicle...so about 13.5V.

  • try drilling holes in the bottom of each cup so the water can flow freely

  • My power source is a direct connection to my car battery. I have $20 worth of barbs and hose and I'd hate to upgrade to 1/2" or 3/8" but do you really think it would make any difference? I mean air compressors put out 120PSI + through a thin 1/4" hose...

  • Hi the setup in both cells is the same, along with plate spacing, I checked for leaks by submerging the entire cell in water, and blowing through the hose to pressurize the cell and then look for bubbles. Both cells held their pressure. The solution was the same in each cell. I mixed a gallon container with 1 table spoon per liter of baking soda.

    Also I have teflon tape on the screw lids and there are no leaks there. I blew quite hard into the cell through the hose and no leaks.

  • You may also need to upgrade your output tubing to 3/8" or 1/2" tubing to eliminate some back pressure.

  • beep means it is shorted. (omms value for the cell is small enough to be considered a short.

    Sounds like your solution is stronger for one cell that it is for the other.

    If the solution is the same, then the plates are closer on one cell than they are for the other. (i.e. the cells are not quite identical to each other.)

    What where you using for a power source when you were comparing series wired to parallel wired?

  • Also check for leaks.

    Screw lids are notorious for leaking hydrogen if you have even a slight increase of back pressure.

    I had this happen to me when I was first testing my 'Trinity Screw Cell' arrangement.

    I had leaks "everywhere" once I tried to tie them all together as one entity.

  • R=U/I R=12/10=1,2 ohm it is normal to beep.

  • If anyone has ANY suggestions please give them. I'm kind of stuck right now as far as my HHO research goes...

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