Added: 4 years ago
From: blumpher
Views: 33,004
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  • that guy singin the countdown theme, he needs his throat slit.

  • i luv dis on' it itzzzz gooooouuuuud

  • TOP TIP: Although you can only see a small area of the bearing lip from the inside, once you tap that small area on your first hit or two, the spacer tube will drop down and give you a much larger area to strike. (you can only force these bearings out from inside as they both sit against a lip for correct seating) EASY

  • great job...fast and furious ...get back and race again

    will get HP2 soon

  • I did my specialized hub with no knowledge of how to do it, tryed to copy this video and one side went in great although the other bearing went in a bit dodgy, struggled to get it out first time so left it, my axle gets a bit stiff when you put it in butjust bang it in tighten it up away she goes, loosen it get a flat head and press against the fork to work the stiff bit out then pull out and thats worked fine with no play for over a year going good ;)

  • Eee, you can tell the Pro 2 was designed in Yorkshire. "What's the best way to change the bearings?"

    "HAMMMEEERRR!"

  • @fix0the0spade yes, a Birmingham screwdriver undoes most things....!

  • what is the tire?

  • @KarbonliteLight it was a michelin wildgripper, I think...

  • if i had the choice i would go for a quieter rear hub. THat click noise is quite nasty on the ears. anybody no a good rear hub that is much quiter than this. the saint hub is noisy also

  • @Lunarlaserranging yes, some people like the different noise , especially chris bling ones that scream when you freewheel...!

  • i must say i was dissapointed with the hoep pro 2 rear hub 135mm 10mm qr rear hub. Mine arrived on my bike and had very noticable amounts of play in the rear wheel when moved by hand and im not sure if mine was faulty or the desing flaw or the hub. I compared it to a standard shimano deore hub and this was far more solid. I am going to try the 135mm 10mm thru axle conversion and see if this helps. anybody else have this issue with rear qr pro 2 hib

  • @Lunarlaserranging that's not good is it? I've used hope hus for years an they have been fine. I think my rear is now 7 years old...

  • Hell no lmao! Bad enough I carry the bare essentials on a commute! As far as my tool kit it isn't the skimpy multi tool that everyone raves about, I pretty much put it together myself still light though. Just a note that sealed bearings were introduced as a better improvement! TRUTH: a cheaper way to manufacture bikes! Do some history you'll see. Anyways thanks for the reply!

  • Hope to heck I don't ever have to deal with sealed crap in the first place! I would rather piss with free flow bearings or caged. Obviously carrying around a hammer that big isn't normal. Sorry just my opinion, opinions are like a@@!@##$ everyone has one and they all stink. lol

  • ha ha! we did it in the car park before we started so the hammer stayed there...not the sort of thing you want in your backpack is it?

  • No wonder you had to change them if thats how u fitted the previous one, god Damn.

  • perfectly acceptable way of fitting them...the previuos ones were fitted in the factory.

    have a look at other videos fitting bearings and you will see this is the standard way of doing it

  • standard alright, Bog standard.

  • well no...

    you use a beaing press :|

    it is only standard is you do home mechanics and dont do jobs properly and dont have good mechanics eperience.

  • think what you like everyone, but if you hit the bearings in with a socket that fits around the outside of the bearing, there is no damage at all and it can be done safely and with no problems.. A bearing press is nice if you have one, but fitting bearing races like this is perfectly acceptable.

  • @streader100 dickhead

  • wow.... what a fucking amateur, those hub bearings won't last long after that monkey smashed em in like that? i use a peice of threaded rod (available at any hardware store) with two big nuts at either end and a couple of thick washers a fraction under the diameter of the bearings, simply put the rod through the hub and tighten the nuts up slowly pressing the bearings in tight. Dude....that was painful to watch???

  • well...if you look, the drift I put the bearings back in was sized so it presses on the outside of the bearing, NOT the inside race. This means the bearing races are not damaged at all.

    Your washers have to be very thick to avoid bending and putting pressure on the inner race, thereby pitting the bearing tracks and causing it to wear prematurely.

    Bearings have lasted fine...over a year and a half and counting....

  • the nuts stop the washers from bending, all i'm saying is that if i took my wheel to a bike shop and caught the mechanic doing that I would kick his head in. If you were sitting on a plane looking out the window and saw the mechanic smashing the wheel bearings in with a sledge hammer would you still fly on that plane?

  • no, because that would mean they were only fitting the wheels when I was sitting in it!

    Seriously though, there's nothing wrong with this way, best obviously is a press with a correctly sized former that presses them in, but we didn't have that in the car park....

    Each to his own...why not post a video of your way ?

  • This is the way I do it, and provided you hammer them in straight there's no danger of knackering bearings or the cups in the hub!

  • good job!

  • what did he use to get the bearings out in the first place? mine need replacing

  • I used a 2 lb club hammer(one good clout is better than ten taps...) and I used an old half inch drive socket bar as a drift. I use a socket of the right size, it must press on the outer ring of the bearing to avoid damage... and just bash them in.(I mean carefully press them into the hub...)

  • cheers mate :)

  • I had two red Hot S's. Good Choice!

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