many people dont realise you can use a table saw to cut laminates. Personally I use a 25 year old cordless Makita hand saw to cut laminates and FRP panels when doing commercial or residential work in the field. As for glueing laminate OVER laminate--dont do it! Laminate is not a porous substrate and months down the road you may have bubbles everywhere because the glue will never dry out. I get paid to do the job correctly the first time--if i ever have to replace a job it comes out of my pocket.
@floorguy314 Thanks for the info about laminate over laminate. What is your preferred method for removing old laminate with minimal substrate damage? I am just a woodworker who uses some laminate in my shop fixtures but I will always defer to a professional in the field. Thanks for writing and keep in touch. Your expertise on the subject is most welcome. Allan
Thanks for the info, is a flush trim bit ok to use for rough cuts? I plan to use an 8 degree bevel bit to finish the top edge instead of filing, good idea or not?
@hockyhed A laminate flush trim bit has no bearing, just a cylindrical steel node so it does not get fouled with contact cement. I always trim with that style for both rough trimming and flush trimming of laminate. So when I do use an edge forming bit with a bearing it is not such a mess. I have never found a router cut that can produce that beautiful black edge in laminate the way a file does. It is just a few light strokes so it is not hard.
Yep. We plan on sanding the old one and installing on top of it. The only thing that we are scared of is the edging. The laminate that we have does not come with edging so we would have to cut and create the edging. Also, we have to acquire the router for the detail and cutting work. any thoughts on how to create the edge?
@smokeyab920 Unless you are going into laminate business I would just buy a cheapo laminate trimmer from Harbor Freight for this one job. I looked online and saw they have one for $25. I am sure it is a piece of junk but you can make it work to save money. Just use a straight edge as a guide to trim your edge strips. A good flat file is the ticket for shaping and smoothing those edges after trimming. I hope you are not talking about formed edges, those are formed with factory heat presses.
I felt like you were talking to me personally. The very best video. I was going to give up and do a faux finish but feel that I can replace my laminate now.
@smokeyab920 Thanks for the nice comment. I am glad you found info you can use. Do you know that you can apply new laminate directly over old laminate?
Don't try to drill the unsupported laminate. Glue the laminate to your plywood first. Then locate your holes with a small drill bit from below. Then expand the hole with a series of larger drill bits from the top if you do not have a laminate trimmer. Once you have the hole expanded large enough to get a round file/rasp into it then just shape the laminate to the plywood hole with your file. Supported laminate laminate cuts really easy.Write me back if you need more info. Here to help.Allan
How do I drill 4 holes for my faucet on laminate which will be glued to a plywood kitchen counter? The plywood has 4 perfect hole I did on the drill press, but now what are the steps? Now I'm a lost woman!
@revinronny Thanks for watching. It is really gratifying when people find value in what I have posted. Lots more on the way. The editing is the log jamb for me. Keep in touch. Allan
Thanks for the comment. I just wanted to share with woodworkers a method to install laminate around the shop. It is an amazing durable material that is a great value. It is also easy to work without a complex assortment of tools. Thanks for watching.
what type of plywood are you adhering the laminate to? because it would be nice to use plywood other than that 50 dollar a sheet maple stuff they sell at lowes lol
@ironlionkalo I almost always use Baltic birch plywood. It comes from Russia or Finland. It has very low VOC's, is reasonably priced, and is made up of real wood
veneers. It is so stout that you must pilot for even hardened steel screws to keep from snapping them. Another nice feature is that the veneers are so tight and solid, you can polish edges and they look fantastic, negating the need for banding.
@askwoodman wow, sounds pretty good. where can one find something like this? and by the way, im really enjoying your video and cant wait for part 2, 3, and 4. thanks, justin
@ironlionkalo This type of plywood is available at hardwood lumber outlets. I have
been having trouble with the uploads. Later I am planning a video just on Baltic birch plywood. You will notice in the laminate videos my blue laminate top work table. It is Baltic birch. It is stout and stable. It is mostly sold in the unusual size of 5'x5'. I know it sounds strange, but it is really makes sense from a no waste a standpoint. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
@ironlionkalo Have been having trouble with the uploads today. Later I am planning a video just on Baltic birch plywood. You will notice in the laminate videos my blue laminate top work table. It is Baltic birch. It is stout and stable. It is mostly sold in the unusual size of 5'x5'. I know it sounds strange, but it is really makes sense from a no waste a standpoint. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
You can buy it at hardwood lumber sales locations.
many people dont realise you can use a table saw to cut laminates. Personally I use a 25 year old cordless Makita hand saw to cut laminates and FRP panels when doing commercial or residential work in the field. As for glueing laminate OVER laminate--dont do it! Laminate is not a porous substrate and months down the road you may have bubbles everywhere because the glue will never dry out. I get paid to do the job correctly the first time--if i ever have to replace a job it comes out of my pocket.
floorguy314 1 month ago
@floorguy314 Thanks for the info about laminate over laminate. What is your preferred method for removing old laminate with minimal substrate damage? I am just a woodworker who uses some laminate in my shop fixtures but I will always defer to a professional in the field. Thanks for writing and keep in touch. Your expertise on the subject is most welcome. Allan
askwoodman 1 month ago
Thanks for the info, is a flush trim bit ok to use for rough cuts? I plan to use an 8 degree bevel bit to finish the top edge instead of filing, good idea or not?
hockyhed 1 month ago
@hockyhed A laminate flush trim bit has no bearing, just a cylindrical steel node so it does not get fouled with contact cement. I always trim with that style for both rough trimming and flush trimming of laminate. So when I do use an edge forming bit with a bearing it is not such a mess. I have never found a router cut that can produce that beautiful black edge in laminate the way a file does. It is just a few light strokes so it is not hard.
askwoodman 1 month ago
Thanks. You are groovy cool man. I will let you know how it turns out.
smokeyab920 4 months ago
Yep. We plan on sanding the old one and installing on top of it. The only thing that we are scared of is the edging. The laminate that we have does not come with edging so we would have to cut and create the edging. Also, we have to acquire the router for the detail and cutting work. any thoughts on how to create the edge?
smokeyab920 4 months ago
@smokeyab920 Unless you are going into laminate business I would just buy a cheapo laminate trimmer from Harbor Freight for this one job. I looked online and saw they have one for $25. I am sure it is a piece of junk but you can make it work to save money. Just use a straight edge as a guide to trim your edge strips. A good flat file is the ticket for shaping and smoothing those edges after trimming. I hope you are not talking about formed edges, those are formed with factory heat presses.
askwoodman 4 months ago
I felt like you were talking to me personally. The very best video. I was going to give up and do a faux finish but feel that I can replace my laminate now.
smokeyab920 4 months ago
@smokeyab920 Thanks for the nice comment. I am glad you found info you can use. Do you know that you can apply new laminate directly over old laminate?
askwoodman 4 months ago
thanks a lot for your tips
techgood 4 months ago
@techgood You are most welcome. Thank you for watching and for taking the time to comment. Allan
askwoodman 4 months ago
Don't try to drill the unsupported laminate. Glue the laminate to your plywood first. Then locate your holes with a small drill bit from below. Then expand the hole with a series of larger drill bits from the top if you do not have a laminate trimmer. Once you have the hole expanded large enough to get a round file/rasp into it then just shape the laminate to the plywood hole with your file. Supported laminate laminate cuts really easy.Write me back if you need more info. Here to help.Allan
askwoodman 9 months ago
How do I drill 4 holes for my faucet on laminate which will be glued to a plywood kitchen counter? The plywood has 4 perfect hole I did on the drill press, but now what are the steps? Now I'm a lost woman!
Wanderwd 9 months ago
Thanks for the info. This will help when I build a drill press table and router table, etc... Thanks for your time on these.
wdworking 1 year ago
Your video's are extremely helpful! Please keep making them! Thanks
revinronny 1 year ago
@revinronny Thanks for watching. It is really gratifying when people find value in what I have posted. Lots more on the way. The editing is the log jamb for me. Keep in touch. Allan
askwoodman 1 year ago
Thanks for the comment. I just wanted to share with woodworkers a method to install laminate around the shop. It is an amazing durable material that is a great value. It is also easy to work without a complex assortment of tools. Thanks for watching.
askwoodman 1 year ago
I am recutting a old counter top . I will use the old style panling blade if you say it can work . I will cut slowly so it can work . Thanks.
scoobydog411 1 year ago
@scoobydog411 I do not understand your comment. Will you please expand on your
project?
askwoodman 1 year ago
what type of plywood are you adhering the laminate to? because it would be nice to use plywood other than that 50 dollar a sheet maple stuff they sell at lowes lol
ironlionkalo 1 year ago
@ironlionkalo I almost always use Baltic birch plywood. It comes from Russia or Finland. It has very low VOC's, is reasonably priced, and is made up of real wood
veneers. It is so stout that you must pilot for even hardened steel screws to keep from snapping them. Another nice feature is that the veneers are so tight and solid, you can polish edges and they look fantastic, negating the need for banding.
askwoodman 1 year ago
@askwoodman wow, sounds pretty good. where can one find something like this? and by the way, im really enjoying your video and cant wait for part 2, 3, and 4. thanks, justin
ironlionkalo 1 year ago
@ironlionkalo This type of plywood is available at hardwood lumber outlets. I have
been having trouble with the uploads. Later I am planning a video just on Baltic birch plywood. You will notice in the laminate videos my blue laminate top work table. It is Baltic birch. It is stout and stable. It is mostly sold in the unusual size of 5'x5'. I know it sounds strange, but it is really makes sense from a no waste a standpoint. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
askwoodman 1 year ago
@ironlionkalo Have been having trouble with the uploads today. Later I am planning a video just on Baltic birch plywood. You will notice in the laminate videos my blue laminate top work table. It is Baltic birch. It is stout and stable. It is mostly sold in the unusual size of 5'x5'. I know it sounds strange, but it is really makes sense from a no waste a standpoint. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
You can buy it at hardwood lumber sales locations.
askwoodman 1 year ago