The nitrogen purge is to displace oxygen and to stop any build up of soot in the tube or fitting that may bloke a cap tube system. no impurities in system.
I've always heard tthat it is imperative that you flow nitrogen when brazing hvac piping. I suppose this is due to oxidation. What are your thoughts concerning flowing nitrogen?
thanks DrZarkloff you really has help me with my new profession on all of your videos anytime i have a problem i have to come and check out what you have to say you explain better than any training school for free thank you Sir
I can't understand some people! Why do you losers come to this site to watch what you apparently are experts at? This man, out of the kindness and goodness of his heart, takes the time to help other human beings who don't have his experience, AND WE LOVE IT! How many videos have you "EXPERTS" made, how much help have you given? NONE!! You need to learn how to treat people, especially those you don't even KNOW! GO GET A LIFE AND LET US LEARN IN PEACE.!! I appreciate you Dr Z, keep it up!
A lot of people including techs I've came in contact with say 15% silver will allow you to braze without cleaning or with very little. I watched a tech eat up a good chunk of condenser that should of just been a reflow because of heavy use of leak detector spray and a turbo torch without cleaning. My machinist said that was a crock.
as a new tech starting to practice brazing,I want to verify that in this video 1. all the refrigerant had escaped? 2. did you have to evacuate and bring the system down to a vacuum (500 microns)? 3. how much dry nitrogen do you put in a system 20lbs? 4. how long before recharging the system?Thanks for all the great videos.
@DrZarkloff you still could of answered the questionS GAWD! Im learning DIY style and those answers would of been super valuable... your so close to being a guru but so far away... what a waste
I agree with with BRAZEWICK I mean clearly that liquid line is pushing a head pressure of 250 to 300 psig I guess thats y theres alot of dumb ass technicians out there oh n also who the fuck taught u how to braze shit was horrible go practice some more one thing I hate is going out to jobs n the brazing is crappy un professional!
@X360Lobbies Dude shut up bro! All i seen on your sight is crap besides your family time with your kids. This man is trying to help people learn for free and make us all better techs! As a matter of fact make the same video he just did of you doing this and then lets see if you have what it takes like you think! Let me guess your one of the guys who uses half a rod for one 3/8 joint??
I'm not keen on that brazing technique. There could not have been any capillary action into that joint. It was basically just "capped" with braze metal.
How is that small extension into the tube on that prefab causing an issue/restriction? I know of a few major HVAC companies that use them.
I'm not keen on that brazing technique. There could not have been any capillary action into that joint. It was basically just "capped" with braze metal.
How is that small extension into the tube on that prefab causing any more of an issue, restriction wise, then the extra passageway you've now created?
Wow that's a horrible braze... you heat your male end up first, then your female, and then heat the copper up and melt your solder with the metal.... you NEVER melt your solder with the torch! You can not get good capulation that way.
the only thing i wanted to see was the last 1 minute of the video, the forst 3/4 of it is useless informaion i just felt like saying shut up and lets see it being done already!!!
Silfos-15 is self fluxing and designed to be quite forgiving even when used on somewhat dirty copper only joints, it doesn't really have to be sanded shiny. Brass to copper on the other hand, should be very clean and sanded fairly shiny, then kept fluxed well, using 56% silver. Never apply large direct flame onto small joints or onto the solder being applied, instead, slowly heat joint nearby with a measured flame, and let solder run to the heated location, making a nice even 360 degree fillet.
Why on earth would you introduce copper filings into and AC system? That works fine for water, but tight tolerances on compressors don't really like metal parts.
lol...not pretty but it as long as you get tha job done, when i braze i like to get the copper just hot enough for a bead of solder to stick to the joint then i just simply push the solder all the way around the joint with the flame..spreads really evenly that way..jus take practice
They tell us not to use emery cloth. At the school I am attending they want us to use AC type sand cloth. The instructor say emery cloth is too abrasive and leaves grit.
They tell us not to use emery cloth. At the school I am attending they want us to use AC type sand cloth. The instructor ay emery cloth is too abrasive and leaves grit.
He said 15 percent silver, I always use flux on everything, helps it suck better. I'd like to see some of the commentors videos? If he wanted it pretty, he could have used a flux brush and spun the pipe where he welded soldered or brazed it, call it what you want. He's just trying to teach you something, kudos Doc.
@myhero70 Thanks. I wasn't really trying to teach how to braze in this video. I was just showing how factory made access fittings have much to be desired.
Enjoy your videos! Would it be a good idea to mention nitrogen should be purged through the lines while brazing to prevent oxidation which can clog metering devices? I also question sometimes if there is a turbulence in such a tee as you used that could simulate a restriction. But what choice do we have? Keep up the good work!
'Oxidisation' requires Oxygen, not Nitrogen, nitrogen is a fairly inert gas (Hence the reason we can breath it at 70% atmospheric percentage and not die), but oxygen is very reactive.
Nice of you to take the time to make all these videos, I have learned quite a bit and it made me get my 608 and 609 certification online.
I have one brazing question for you - i located a very tiny pinhole leak at the coupling on the suction line on my Goodman, probably about a foot from the AC unit. Can I braze this pinhole with refrigerant still in the system (although low pressure)? It would be a shame to have to evacuate just for this tiny hole. Someone suggested that hardening epoxy too
@DrZarkloff i was reading all the comments waiting then finaly i see the one i was looking for yous supposed to use nitrogen when brazin to prevent scale inside the pipe kudos and you dont realy need flux when brazing or clean the crap out of the copper
Guess you can always put a standing gauge tap/tee on the line which would be convienient for both the tech and customer. Would be an easy call it the customer can monitor pressures over the phone on your way over. Thanks Dr>>>
Dr Zarkloff, u now have no restriction on ur line but assuming im rite and thats going on the high side do u think that tee is now a lil too long and would create a pressure drop causing the refrigerant to flash?? I personally dont think that either way would create much of a difference on the cycle , but just a thought. Great Videos thanks..
@jonjon2121nyc i thought the exact same thing... good thing i read the comments before posting my own lol... you don't have a restriction anymore but you have more space to fill with refrigerant...
Flame way to hot dude . Never sand the copper if your using that type of braze , uless the copper is dirty ( older copper gets brown and dull / dirty) thats when you sand . cause your braze wont stick . Why would you sand when braze does not go in the joint like solder ?
The braze does go in the joint like a solder, it's the capilary gap filled with braze filler that makes the joint, not the excess built up around the outside.
@samm01000 Wrong, wrong, and wrong. Flame is fine, always sand everything as all copper has some oxidation, and of course the brazing alloy goes in the joint. Ever heard of capillary action?
Good job Dr Z!! I'm learning so much from your videos. Keep up the good work! I wouldn't have though twice about slapping on one of those store-bought T's had I not watched this video. Now I know better.
there is no need for what ever your trying to achieve here. + without being rude you need to work on your brazing skills as you got no penetration on your joint!!! and was you purging?
if you had used a no acid flux and properly heated the pipe before applying the solder you would get a good joint. in a properly done job the solder is sucked into the joint and it is smooth and NOT lumpy.
@joelpeters1 He used a bit too much alloy but this is a braze not a solder. I know he says solder but it's actually brazing alloy. The only time you use flux w a braze is if you are joining 2 dissimilar metals, or if using a copper or brazing alloy with no phosphorus.
@ benalbery2002 you don't want any "penetration" in brazing. You are not trying to melt the base metal but have the brass or whatever flow all in and around the joint.
I cannot stress enough how important it is to clean your copper. That goes with any base metals you are joining. Nice video brazing the copper tee. I would suggest heading the copper first then moveing the rod to the opposite side so that capillary action will draw the filler metal towards the heat source, that will give a nice even fillet and reduce the ugly bump. But, to your point.. that is a leak-tight joint, might be ugly, but a well brazed joint. -Damon
I got into the HVAC field a little at a time. I learned to weld and braze when I was in high school. I've always been good with my hands. I get along better with machines than I do with a lot of people. I've had jobs that required me to work on air conditioners since 1984. Then when I had to have an EPA card to work on air conditioners, I went to HVAC school. I didn't need the college credits just the knowledge to help me pass the EPA exam.
thanks Dr. Z. for the info, i have a question related to brazing , however it is a bit far from brazing itself, i still hope you can help me as an expert. i am using propane brazing torch, no oxygen, the torch leak gas feom the valve and there is no one near by who can service it, i think i can stop the leak with silicon, but i don't know if the heat can affect silicon making it burn, leak or whatever damage, can silicon bear the heat of the torch body? do you have any other recomendation?
The line set is determined by the manufacturer. You can find the the specs in the paperwork that comes with the new a/c. In many commercial applications, the suction line will be oversize to compensate for the length of the line set.
but im working on this project to try to build my own 2.5 ton system. and i called coil manufacture and they gave me 3 picks for the coil size 3/8 1/2 5/8. they want me to pick the size of the coil tubing. i think to go with 3/8. what do you think
3/8 in evep and cond coils, right? i will stick with one size of evap and cond coils. 2.5 tonX 2.5 ton. and i will go with 1/2 size hoze from compr to cond coil and 5/8 from evap to compr. let me know if its sounds ok
My name is Vincent I work in Manhattan for a GC. For the past year I have been estimating General Construction ,Commercial and High End Residential please note I am also a student at The General Society of Mechanics and Tradesmen Going through the Project managers program.
recently we have brought in a team to help start HVAC division and i have been asked to come on board what are some books or guides that you can recommend to help put me ahead of the curve my goal is to be able to write up a competative bid in commercial HVAC
Yes, it might have been a bit hot for 3/8 copper tubing. I like to get on and off a quick as possible when I'm repairing a hole. Everyone does the same thing in a different way.
should really use air / gas not oxy /gas for fittings that small. only use oxy/gas for rev vlvs, comps and larger pipe. and sanding the fittings is ok if its oxidized but not needed on new ones.
there is something called capilary action. it is when you draw the solder or braize into the joint. do not braize like this guy because he goes to fast just filling the top of the joint. you want to heat the pipe first then the joint. as you are adding to the joint keep your heat on it and lat it flow. do not poke it like this hack
Thanks Tall, I knew about the solder, and silver, but I've never done it for brazing, and had no issues with leaks in the past.. But yea, if the ends are dirty or what not, then yes I've sanded it.
I've made a habit of at least scratching the surface of oxidized copper with sandcloth/emery paper.
Annealing copper (with heat) does not guarantee a clean surface for brazing.
I have never had a leak on joints that were unsweated and then, brazed over. Sil-Phos (silver/phosphorous alloy) is a very reliable brazing alloy. I prefer the 15% silver, but I can do the job with 0% silver.
hey jay11j...and unless the joint has guck or caked on crap on it, sanding is just good pactice for silfos but not neccessary . 1300 degrees melting point does not give a little dirt film a chance to cause any problems when soldering.
For soft solders and silver solders that need flux, SANDING IS LAWAYS A MUST!!
The nitrogen purge is to displace oxygen and to stop any build up of soot in the tube or fitting that may bloke a cap tube system. no impurities in system.
rhess58 1 week ago
Haha still believe this was pretty crappy brazing!!!
ESPHEATINGNAC 1 month ago
I've always heard tthat it is imperative that you flow nitrogen when brazing hvac piping. I suppose this is due to oxidation. What are your thoughts concerning flowing nitrogen?
cutum 2 months ago
@cutum Yes, it is best to braze with a nitrogen bleed.
DrZarkloff 2 months ago
@cutum you flow nitrogen to keep air from entering your opened system
hvac4life69 1 month ago
what school tough this so called doctor to braze his repair had more tits then
a milk cow
MrGeorgeda123 4 months ago
doctor idiot dont have a brush how sad
MrGeorgeda123 4 months ago
thanks DrZarkloff you really has help me with my new profession on all of your videos anytime i have a problem i have to come and check out what you have to say you explain better than any training school for free thank you Sir
tman19630723 5 months ago
The reason why you clean it is it will use less heat to solder it together
Hvackemple8409 6 months ago
ahhhh! 1!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! fukin idiot you never touch cleaned copper with human fingers hands whatever ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
crispy2870 6 months ago
I can't understand some people! Why do you losers come to this site to watch what you apparently are experts at? This man, out of the kindness and goodness of his heart, takes the time to help other human beings who don't have his experience, AND WE LOVE IT! How many videos have you "EXPERTS" made, how much help have you given? NONE!! You need to learn how to treat people, especially those you don't even KNOW! GO GET A LIFE AND LET US LEARN IN PEACE.!! I appreciate you Dr Z, keep it up!
shawnattoye 7 months ago 7
A lot of people including techs I've came in contact with say 15% silver will allow you to braze without cleaning or with very little. I watched a tech eat up a good chunk of condenser that should of just been a reflow because of heavy use of leak detector spray and a turbo torch without cleaning. My machinist said that was a crock.
150grnballistictip 7 months ago
@150grnballistictip You really need to clean the copper with 15% silver if you want a good connection.
DrZarkloff 7 months ago
howdy
as a new tech starting to practice brazing,I want to verify that in this video 1. all the refrigerant had escaped? 2. did you have to evacuate and bring the system down to a vacuum (500 microns)? 3. how much dry nitrogen do you put in a system 20lbs? 4. how long before recharging the system?Thanks for all the great videos.
MikeCut777 8 months ago
@MikeCut777 Thanks for watching my videos. This video was just to show how some store bought access fittings can restrict the flow of refrigerant.
DrZarkloff 8 months ago
@DrZarkloff you still could of answered the questionS GAWD! Im learning DIY style and those answers would of been super valuable... your so close to being a guru but so far away... what a waste
BlueToad2222 6 months ago
@BlueToad2222 Being a guru has never been my goal. Which questions were you referring?
DrZarkloff 6 months ago
cool idea those manufactured ones are probably made in China I bet .
Vmartin70EZ 8 months ago
@Vmartin70EZ More than likely.
DrZarkloff 8 months ago
N no u dont have to clean pipes with silver solder just soft solder
X360Lobbies 8 months ago
@X360Lobbies You need to clean the tubing before doing any brazing or soft soldering.
DrZarkloff 8 months ago
I agree with with BRAZEWICK I mean clearly that liquid line is pushing a head pressure of 250 to 300 psig I guess thats y theres alot of dumb ass technicians out there oh n also who the fuck taught u how to braze shit was horrible go practice some more one thing I hate is going out to jobs n the brazing is crappy un professional!
X360Lobbies 8 months ago
@X360Lobbies Dude shut up bro! All i seen on your sight is crap besides your family time with your kids. This man is trying to help people learn for free and make us all better techs! As a matter of fact make the same video he just did of you doing this and then lets see if you have what it takes like you think! Let me guess your one of the guys who uses half a rod for one 3/8 joint??
MrAmerico1982 6 months ago
I'm not keen on that brazing technique. There could not have been any capillary action into that joint. It was basically just "capped" with braze metal.
How is that small extension into the tube on that prefab causing an issue/restriction? I know of a few major HVAC companies that use them.
BrazeWick 9 months ago
I'm not keen on that brazing technique. There could not have been any capillary action into that joint. It was basically just "capped" with braze metal.
How is that small extension into the tube on that prefab causing any more of an issue, restriction wise, then the extra passageway you've now created?
BrazeWick 9 months ago
you shouldnt use flux with sil-fos
even touching the pipe leaves natural oils behind that could affect the joint (strongly use could)
you could always use a clamp on access port (they are not meant to be left and would have to pump down the system in order to braze the access hole)
MrMaxsmartest1 9 months ago
@MrMaxsmartest1 You don't need flux with sil-fos. I wouldn't be too much of a stickler about the natural oils.
DrZarkloff 9 months ago
Wow that's a horrible braze... you heat your male end up first, then your female, and then heat the copper up and melt your solder with the metal.... you NEVER melt your solder with the torch! You can not get good capulation that way.
Dp908 10 months ago
you dont even have to clean the pipes
kokkoris09 11 months ago
@kokkoris09 Yes you do have to clean the tubing before braising. I just cleaned the one joint that I braised.
DrZarkloff 10 months ago
the only thing i wanted to see was the last 1 minute of the video, the forst 3/4 of it is useless informaion i just felt like saying shut up and lets see it being done already!!!
Joemama5632 11 months ago
Silfos-15 is self fluxing and designed to be quite forgiving even when used on somewhat dirty copper only joints, it doesn't really have to be sanded shiny. Brass to copper on the other hand, should be very clean and sanded fairly shiny, then kept fluxed well, using 56% silver. Never apply large direct flame onto small joints or onto the solder being applied, instead, slowly heat joint nearby with a measured flame, and let solder run to the heated location, making a nice even 360 degree fillet.
tubeadelic 1 year ago
dusd0, and your stupid，I was joking with Jim. I use flux in plumbing only. 15% silver in hvac, dummy.
myhero70 1 year ago
u dont use flux????
u guys shouldnt be so negative the guys trying to teach u somethin
ppfflynn1 1 year ago
u dont use flux????
ppfflynn1 1 year ago
Why on earth would you introduce copper filings into and AC system? That works fine for water, but tight tolerances on compressors don't really like metal parts.
KIPPERDFW1 1 year ago
I actually prefer to solder the joints myself not keen on the pre-soldered ones.
steno01 1 year ago
lol...not pretty but it as long as you get tha job done, when i braze i like to get the copper just hot enough for a bead of solder to stick to the joint then i just simply push the solder all the way around the joint with the flame..spreads really evenly that way..jus take practice
crownvvc4 1 year ago
They tell us not to use emery cloth. At the school I am attending they want us to use AC type sand cloth. The instructor say emery cloth is too abrasive and leaves grit.
maplove1 1 year ago
They tell us not to use emery cloth. At the school I am attending they want us to use AC type sand cloth. The instructor ay emery cloth is too abrasive and leaves grit.
maplove1 1 year ago
He said 15 percent silver, I always use flux on everything, helps it suck better. I'd like to see some of the commentors videos? If he wanted it pretty, he could have used a flux brush and spun the pipe where he welded soldered or brazed it, call it what you want. He's just trying to teach you something, kudos Doc.
myhero70 1 year ago
@myhero70 Thanks. I wasn't really trying to teach how to braze in this video. I was just showing how factory made access fittings have much to be desired.
DrZarkloff 1 year ago
@myhero70 ur dumb u dont use flux on refrigeration pipe... if you do you will contaminate the refrigerant
dusd0 1 year ago
Well one thing only , you don't have very good skills brazing that's for sure dr.
crackx2008AZ 1 year ago
I just started HVAC training, and I see now you will be a great tool for me.
gofixmechickenpotpie 1 year ago
Enjoy your videos! Would it be a good idea to mention nitrogen should be purged through the lines while brazing to prevent oxidation which can clog metering devices? I also question sometimes if there is a turbulence in such a tee as you used that could simulate a restriction. But what choice do we have? Keep up the good work!
newstart49 1 year ago
@newstart49 You could use a size larger then reduce it after the tee.
DrZarkloff 1 year ago
@newstart49
I'm confused.
'Oxidisation' requires Oxygen, not Nitrogen, nitrogen is a fairly inert gas (Hence the reason we can breath it at 70% atmospheric percentage and not die), but oxygen is very reactive.
So, eh?
Lollocide 1 year ago
Could you do a video of brazing some large diameter pipe like 1 5/8 or larger?
shanemm1 1 year ago
@shanemm1 I'll try to remember the next time I have to braze the bigger stuff.
DrZarkloff 1 year ago
You're my hero!
hovh03 1 year ago
today i seen at a supply house this new item called Hvac Pro.
its a glue that supposedly it can hold up to 1200 psi .
the bottle is 45 dollars and can glue 100 fittings.
any body used it and has anything good to say about it?
Master8laster 1 year ago
@Master8laster I do have a video on HVAC Pro. Please check it out.
DrZarkloff 1 year ago
Nice of you to take the time to make all these videos, I have learned quite a bit and it made me get my 608 and 609 certification online.
I have one brazing question for you - i located a very tiny pinhole leak at the coupling on the suction line on my Goodman, probably about a foot from the AC unit. Can I braze this pinhole with refrigerant still in the system (although low pressure)? It would be a shame to have to evacuate just for this tiny hole. Someone suggested that hardening epoxy too
Amopower 1 year ago
@Amopower I always recover the gas and braze over the hole.
DrZarkloff 1 year ago
@DrZarkloff i was reading all the comments waiting then finaly i see the one i was looking for yous supposed to use nitrogen when brazin to prevent scale inside the pipe kudos and you dont realy need flux when brazing or clean the crap out of the copper
delavan100 6 months ago
@Amopower NO you can't braze with refrigerant in the system... You can't have any pressure on the system at all.
NedacFilms 1 year ago
Comment removed
Amopower 1 year ago
Dr Z.
Don't you have to use flux to reduce the possible oxidation on the copper tubbing?
knt402 1 year ago
@knt402 No. I used 15 percent sil fos.
DrZarkloff 1 year ago
hey you wiped the pipe with your fingers isn't this a no no?
thanks for your help you seem to be the only one helping,i know i work along side of ac techs and they refuse to teach me.
gah964 1 year ago
@gah964 Only if you're using HVAC Super Pro it's a mistake to wipe the sanded copper.
DrZarkloff 1 year ago
flame is too hot
lapulapu12345 1 year ago
EXCELLENT!!! THNX FOR GIVING US BASIC IDEAS ON HVAC BRAZING.
tangnatalaga 1 year ago
this dude is stupid
ckillls 1 year ago
Guess you can always put a standing gauge tap/tee on the line which would be convienient for both the tech and customer. Would be an easy call it the customer can monitor pressures over the phone on your way over. Thanks Dr>>>
jonjon2121nyc 1 year ago
@jonjon2121nyc A lot of commercial systems have pressure gauges built into the system.
DrZarkloff 1 year ago
Dr Zarkloff, u now have no restriction on ur line but assuming im rite and thats going on the high side do u think that tee is now a lil too long and would create a pressure drop causing the refrigerant to flash?? I personally dont think that either way would create much of a difference on the cycle , but just a thought. Great Videos thanks..
jonjon2121nyc 1 year ago
@jonjon2121nyc I don't think the extra couple of inches would matter.
DrZarkloff 1 year ago
@jonjon2121nyc i thought the exact same thing... good thing i read the comments before posting my own lol... you don't have a restriction anymore but you have more space to fill with refrigerant...
T0rche 1 year ago
Flame way to hot dude . Never sand the copper if your using that type of braze , uless the copper is dirty ( older copper gets brown and dull / dirty) thats when you sand . cause your braze wont stick . Why would you sand when braze does not go in the joint like solder ?
samm01000 1 year ago
The braze does go in the joint like a solder, it's the capilary gap filled with braze filler that makes the joint, not the excess built up around the outside.
CampsieProductions99 1 year ago
The braze does go in the joint, it works on the same capilary principle as soft solder. It is just done at a higher temprature.
CampsieProductions99 1 year ago
@samm01000 Wrong, wrong, and wrong. Flame is fine, always sand everything as all copper has some oxidation, and of course the brazing alloy goes in the joint. Ever heard of capillary action?
kafkaesquire 1 year ago
dr z, ur a shoemaker
lovetosingx33 1 year ago
Good job Dr Z!! I'm learning so much from your videos. Keep up the good work! I wouldn't have though twice about slapping on one of those store-bought T's had I not watched this video. Now I know better.
mykeyoung 1 year ago
@mykeyoung Thanks for watching.
DrZarkloff 1 year ago
All should make note before brazing refrigeration pipe. To flow in some nitrogen. If not it will oxidize on the inside.
dspqpsk 1 year ago
Nice Brazing DR. Thats such a great Idea, and stops no air flow
TheDJHits1 1 year ago
there is no need for what ever your trying to achieve here. + without being rude you need to work on your brazing skills as you got no penetration on your joint!!! and was you purging?
benalbery2002 2 years ago
if you had used a no acid flux and properly heated the pipe before applying the solder you would get a good joint. in a properly done job the solder is sucked into the joint and it is smooth and NOT lumpy.
joelpeters1 2 years ago
lumpy solder joints like that one are prone to leaks.
joelpeters1 2 years ago
just wanted to add this guy has some of the most knowledgeable and helpful videos ive seen.
joelpeters1 2 years ago
@joelpeters1 He used a bit too much alloy but this is a braze not a solder. I know he says solder but it's actually brazing alloy. The only time you use flux w a braze is if you are joining 2 dissimilar metals, or if using a copper or brazing alloy with no phosphorus.
kafkaesquire 1 year ago
@ benalbery2002 you don't want any "penetration" in brazing. You are not trying to melt the base metal but have the brass or whatever flow all in and around the joint.
freddytk421 2 years ago
hey doc do you use a turbo torch or an gas and oxygen mix torch, multi torch brazing/ cutting torch
joshualindsey77 2 years ago
i really like ur version of the shrader valve install it makes sence why to do that. takes a little more time but i bet the system runs better
kingquad1993 2 years ago
hi Dr ,,, do you agree using N2 flow tr lineset while you re brazing?
janito25 2 years ago
It's practically a necessity to use a nitrogen flow while brazing.
DrZarkloff 2 years ago
Thank you very much for your advice and videos...you're the best Dr Z !!!
janito25 2 years ago
Thanks for watching.
DrZarkloff 2 years ago
Do you need to use flux when brazing?
e28chan 2 years ago
Not if you're brazing with sil-fos.
DrZarkloff 2 years ago
Why don't you use Oweld's gas generators? You will have a better result.
azzaza12345 2 years ago
Maybe when it will become an industry standard one of these days.
DrZarkloff 2 years ago
wouldent the tip on the inside of the Tee cause turbulance? im in Trade school for HVAC and thats what i was taught,
raptorman120 2 years ago
Not so much on the liquid line. Besides, it's better than having a restriction where you don't want one.
DrZarkloff 2 years ago
HEY DOCZ. Thank you very much for your videos , very helpful. God bless you
robacandheat 2 years ago
Thanks for watching.
DrZarkloff 2 years ago
I cannot stress enough how important it is to clean your copper. That goes with any base metals you are joining. Nice video brazing the copper tee. I would suggest heading the copper first then moveing the rod to the opposite side so that capillary action will draw the filler metal towards the heat source, that will give a nice even fillet and reduce the ugly bump. But, to your point.. that is a leak-tight joint, might be ugly, but a well brazed joint. -Damon
SilverBrazer 2 years ago
not pretty but gets the job done , like soldier joints dont need to be pretty but need to be tight and not leak
doubledeckertaco 2 years ago
I got into the HVAC field a little at a time. I learned to weld and braze when I was in high school. I've always been good with my hands. I get along better with machines than I do with a lot of people. I've had jobs that required me to work on air conditioners since 1984. Then when I had to have an EPA card to work on air conditioners, I went to HVAC school. I didn't need the college credits just the knowledge to help me pass the EPA exam.
DrZarkloff 2 years ago
You call that brazing?, i know that is for teaching purpose, but you may try to do it in the rigth way for the next time
Koifishman 2 years ago
Comment removed
Koifishman 2 years ago
That is a example of how not to braze, all cup and no penetration.
The phosphorous in the rod is the flux.
ob3kanobe 2 years ago
thanks Dr. Z. for the info, i have a question related to brazing , however it is a bit far from brazing itself, i still hope you can help me as an expert. i am using propane brazing torch, no oxygen, the torch leak gas feom the valve and there is no one near by who can service it, i think i can stop the leak with silicon, but i don't know if the heat can affect silicon making it burn, leak or whatever damage, can silicon bear the heat of the torch body? do you have any other recomendation?
goodhope2001 2 years ago
You really should repair the problem correctly or replace the whole setup. I can't recommend silicone. It even sounds unsafe.
DrZarkloff 2 years ago
is there flux in the solder you used , or is silver soldering differant soldering copper pipe?
gaslight55 2 years ago
I was using 15% solder. You don't need flux on copper with 15%.
DrZarkloff 2 years ago
okay thanks for the info
gaslight55 2 years ago
hi Dr. Z, thanks for the great videos, would like to ask why you don't use flux o prevent oxidation
goodhope2001 2 years ago
You don't need flux with 15% when brazing copper.
DrZarkloff 2 years ago
it really makes that big of a difference?
Tagarashi 2 years ago
The length of the screw can mean the difference between putting a screw threw a refrigerant line or not.
DrZarkloff 2 years ago
This vid is for the valve.
Brazing 2 is for the screws.
I was asking if the store bought valves that are not flush inside if they make that much difference?
Tagarashi 2 years ago
Yes, especially with copper under one inch.
DrZarkloff 2 years ago
pidgeon shit soldering
freestone07 2 years ago
you said 3/4 tee looks like 5/8 to me or is it the size of your fingers they look huge
jamsiss 2 years ago
You're right. It was actually a 3/8 tee and I made the mistake of saying 3/4. Sorry for the confusion.
DrZarkloff 2 years ago
so how to pick the size of the tubing of evep and codense coils. what main factor influancing the decision.
bykashka75 2 years ago
The line set is determined by the manufacturer. You can find the the specs in the paperwork that comes with the new a/c. In many commercial applications, the suction line will be oversize to compensate for the length of the line set.
DrZarkloff 2 years ago
but im working on this project to try to build my own 2.5 ton system. and i called coil manufacture and they gave me 3 picks for the coil size 3/8 1/2 5/8. they want me to pick the size of the coil tubing. i think to go with 3/8. what do you think
bykashka75 2 years ago
3/8 sounds about right. I find it impressive that you're building your own a/c. But I have to ask: why?
DrZarkloff 2 years ago
just want to prove to myself that i can. its like a hobby set a goal and get it done.
bykashka75 2 years ago
3/8 in evep and cond coils, right? i will stick with one size of evap and cond coils. 2.5 tonX 2.5 ton. and i will go with 1/2 size hoze from compr to cond coil and 5/8 from evap to compr. let me know if its sounds ok
bykashka75 2 years ago
Yes. Those sizes sound about right for an older, less efficient unit.
DrZarkloff 2 years ago
so what is the right sizes for more efficient system
bykashka75 2 years ago
3/8 liquid line is common on high efficient systems. 3/4 or 7/8 suction line is common.
DrZarkloff 2 years ago
capillary action pulls the solder into the joint. the process is called sweating.
freakboynv2000 2 years ago
no flux????
RedSkirtPinup 2 years ago
You don't need flux with 15%.
DrZarkloff 2 years ago
Comment removed
Wecamefromthestars81 2 years ago
make shut out to me
bykashka75 2 years ago
Please send make a question video and I'll be glad to answer the question in a video.
DrZarkloff 2 years ago
Hey DrZarkloff
My name is Vincent I work in Manhattan for a GC. For the past year I have been estimating General Construction ,Commercial and High End Residential please note I am also a student at The General Society of Mechanics and Tradesmen Going through the Project managers program.
wallstgreen 2 years ago
recently we have brought in a team to help start HVAC division and i have been asked to come on board what are some books or guides that you can recommend to help put me ahead of the curve my goal is to be able to write up a competative bid in commercial HVAC
wallstgreen 2 years ago
I too thought that your torch was a bit too hot. Especially for smaller copper like that. You have to be fast...and it doesn't always end up neat.
Suiscycho 2 years ago
Yes, it might have been a bit hot for 3/8 copper tubing. I like to get on and off a quick as possible when I'm repairing a hole. Everyone does the same thing in a different way.
DrZarkloff 2 years ago
Good point.
Suiscycho 2 years ago
should really use air / gas not oxy /gas for fittings that small. only use oxy/gas for rev vlvs, comps and larger pipe. and sanding the fittings is ok if its oxidized but not needed on new ones.
farbeondriven 3 years ago
Please make a video showing your style and make it as a video response to this video.
DrZarkloff 3 years ago
there is something called capilary action. it is when you draw the solder or braize into the joint. do not braize like this guy because he goes to fast just filling the top of the joint. you want to heat the pipe first then the joint. as you are adding to the joint keep your heat on it and lat it flow. do not poke it like this hack
jiujitsupat 3 years ago
Please make a video showing your style and make it as a video response to this video.
DrZarkloff 3 years ago
If you heat the pipe to much you will cause scale in the pipe and contaminate the refrigerant.
string6355 2 years ago
Do not use "Emery Cloth on refrigeration tubing as it contains Oil.
Sil Phos is brazing rod, not solder.
Another example of misinformation.
But as others have pointed out, most of the information you state is wrong
HVACRTEACHER 3 years ago
Yes, your right, but ya can. LOL As they say, those who cant, Teach....
riderman357 3 years ago
Oh but he can do since 1968.
He's my cousin.
Burnerfixer 3 years ago
I was taught too use emery cloth by one off the largest HVAC company in Europe .
Your comment about oil in the cloth is rubbish,
Balenza345 2 years ago
Eyes open! That's the difference to do it right. Good eyes Dr. Z
castlekc 3 years ago
Thanks Tall, I knew about the solder, and silver, but I've never done it for brazing, and had no issues with leaks in the past.. But yea, if the ends are dirty or what not, then yes I've sanded it.
jay11j 3 years ago
I've made a habit of at least scratching the surface of oxidized copper with sandcloth/emery paper.
Annealing copper (with heat) does not guarantee a clean surface for brazing.
I have never had a leak on joints that were unsweated and then, brazed over. Sil-Phos (silver/phosphorous alloy) is a very reliable brazing alloy. I prefer the 15% silver, but I can do the job with 0% silver.
PutSome5tankOnIt 3 years ago
I always shine up all the copper. I clean steel, too. That will be in another video.
DrZarkloff 3 years ago
Thats 15% silfos. Not silver solder...
talisman227 3 years ago
Slip of the tongue. Silly me.
DrZarkloff 3 years ago
hello drZ can you make a video on reading ladder diagrams im having tuff time reading the
and need some extra help with the is there anything you can suggest pleazzzzzzzzzzzz
boriqua4life712 3 years ago
Thanks. Probably in a future video.
DrZarkloff 3 years ago
Gotta love the power and control of the Acc/Oxy torch. :-]
hackfreehvac 3 years ago
It's the only way to go.
DrZarkloff 3 years ago
Why did you sand the fitting? Sanding isn't needed for brazing, right?
jay11j 3 years ago
You always need to sand.
DrZarkloff 3 years ago
hey jay11j...and unless the joint has guck or caked on crap on it, sanding is just good pactice for silfos but not neccessary . 1300 degrees melting point does not give a little dirt film a chance to cause any problems when soldering.
For soft solders and silver solders that need flux, SANDING IS LAWAYS A MUST!!
talisman227 3 years ago
damn man you should become an instructor in this field. These tips are God send
sockmess 3 years ago
Thanks for the compliment.
DrZarkloff 3 years ago
if you want somthing done right, do it your self. i say... good job
V8Jagnut 3 years ago
That's what my father always said.
DrZarkloff 3 years ago
Making your own - that's music to my ears.
bowlingballout 3 years ago
It's priceless, too.
DrZarkloff 3 years ago
man are those T's terriable
mechanicwarrior20 3 years ago
Techs need to know what they look like on the inside. The quality control in the factory sucks.
DrZarkloff 3 years ago