Hi Eric i was on my way to work and my car just died its a honda civic i checked it out theirs no spark no fuel pump sound but its cranking i changed the relay,ecu,dizzy, and check all fuse still not starting any ideas i was told to check ground wires but if thats not the problem i dont know what els to check also the timing belt look ok the top cams are spinning when i crank it ?
Eric when I Finnish my trenny swap I had no spark I did the diagnose and had power in my distributor but for some reason it wasnt making it pass to the cap I was going crazy tell I found out it was my ecu needed a manual ecu
hey eric, i have a 91 civic. Problem is that my tachometer will not read past 1000 rpm. when i start the vehicle, it shows it idling but as soon as i accelerate it wont pass 1000 rpm.
Gr8 video.Ive had starting issues with my Honda!I have a 92 Civic Hatch but a 94 integra motor swap.I have a MSD external coil and control box.I have spark comin out of the coil.I test that by tapping a ground to the trigger wire of the MSD box,but still now start!I have a reman Distributor and Ive been tryin to test that!I have pwr to the igniter,test light is on when i touch the pwr prong but when i test the negative prong i get neither a light or flashing light!Is igniter bad?
Great video! Hoping this will help me get my 93 Accord fixed. About a month ago, I noticed it was idling very rough, almost wanting to die, and due to a wreck, I wasnt driving it much thereafter that time. Ever snce then it will start and run just fine for 20 minutes or so, but once the engine is warm, it will not start. Crank and crank, but no start. I have checked, and have fuel, and the main relay is new, so I know thats okay, just trying to go through process of elimination...Ideas?
GREAT VIDEO! I gave my 94 Civic Si full tune-up thinking the filters were all clogged. Then figured out my coil was bad because of this video. HAHA. thanks!
I just subscribed good videos and this one helped me out because now I have some clue of what to check for on my checklist of whats wrong with my civic.
hi eric i have a 1993 honda civic hatch back and it has a b16a3 motor swap in it that come out of a 95 honda del sol . my car will turn over and you can even hear the fuel pump kick on but it won't start. i also noticed a burning smell inside my distributor cap.. just i just put a whole new distributor on the car a few days ago. i was driving and my car just cut off on me and all my dashlights came on... can u please help me out here? also the car is chipped so i don't understand.
When checking the ignitor @ 5:45 while touching the Negative, if using a test light, would the other end (alligator clip) be hook up to body ground? Thanks....
Thanks very much Eric. I find your videos very helpful. Are you able to do some videos on carburettor tuning for the older vehicles? Setting the choke, float level, idle mixture, idle speed. Many thanks
hey eric youve helped me before and i replaced to the igniton coil on my civic 98. I used a accel coil instead of a honda, as well as replaced cap and rotor - only 1 year old ,and i have been misfiring cause the cap is extremely coroded as well as the coil. I have a dark brownish red looks like tobacco shreds, im gonna clean it but wondering where these tobacco look alike shreds came from and why, cause my coil is still firing spark. when i last changed my coil everythis was very clean.
thanks much. I followed your diagnosis video on my sons civic, evne picked up a test light for about 8 Bucks. Replaced the rotor,plugs and cap to start with as they were pretty bad. The culprit, however, was the ignition coil. A little tricky getting the screws off the wire contacts without stripping, but it fires up like new now.
hi there. thanks for the vid. I have a 98 accord V6 coupe. I opened the distributor cap, then cranked in order to have access to the screw on rotor. I replaced both the cap and the rotor. Do u think this operation would mess up ignition timing? Thx
I used this video as a guide to diagnose my car's no start condition. I found out that my ignition coil on honda civic 2000 was not putting out spark at secondary terminal.
Thanks Eric The Car God. You video's are very detailed and helpful.
Thanks for the quick response. I actually checked all fuses under dash and in the engine bay under the hood. they are working fine. Unless ignition fuse is in a different spot, other than under dash on driver side. I checked all with special attention to the ones labeled IG(not sure if that's for ignition), again all working fine. By the way fuel is also going to sparks, cause when I pulled them they were pretty wet with gas. Already dry them though. Crank is strong, just wont' start.HELP
@jastube17911 If the plugs are wet you might be flooded, dry the plugs and when you go to start it try putting your foot to the floor on the gas while you crank the engine this will turn off the fuel injectors to help 'clear the flood'.
I have 1994 Acura Integra Ls. My car only cranks, but won't start. I checked and had no spark to spark plugs, and did troubleshooting checks just like on your video, From sparkplugs, to distributor coil, to igniter. There was not power going to distributor period! I do have a Remote start alarm installed on this car for the last 10yrs, but alarms still works fine, and tech adv me since my car still cranks alarm is not at fault. I was told it could be the ECM. Please help. Thanks!
@prinnyjag I NEVER recommend replacement of the distributor on a Honda for a no spark situation, I always advocate doing this test to find the source of the problem. It's not a bad idea to check the mechanical timing of the engine if you know you have spark and fuel. You need to find out what you are missing first spark, fuel, or an engine mechanical issue.
Hi Eric! Thank you so much for your help! I have a quick question. I have a 95 Honda Civic DX. I found out that the ignitor is switching the coil, yet the coil is not working. When I opened the distributor cap, however, I saw a small amount of oil in the cap. Here is my question: If I instal a new ignition coil, will the oil continue to leak and ruin the new coil? Or, should I simply go ahead and install and entire new distributor? Thank you again!
@FollowingJohn In that situation I would be replacing the coil AND the distributor sub assembly. I highly recommend using an OE distributor as I've seen lots of problems with the aftermarket units.
@1989purry I'm not sure I understand your question but if you have spark at the plugs the ignition system is working, you may have a problem with timing.
hi Eric, i checked my coil for spark and there is only one spark when you start to crank and thats it. then i went to see if the igniter is bad and it wasnt going on and off like in the video so i replaced it and it still wont work what else could it be?
@TheCivicdrifter You might want to make sure that the cam is spinning like it should, if the distributer does not rotate with the engine it will exhibit a condition like that.
my car ran out of gas.. put gas in.. still no start... went tto the spark plugs.. its getting an orange spark.. no purple spark... is the coil or igniter bad? its gettin spark but enough? can ggapping the spark plugs to the correct gap and cleaning thee coil on the plug help it start? its a 92 toyota paseo.. EFI .. So its ffuel injected.. its gettin gas.. its not clogged... so what you think i can do?
@EricxXx49 If your getting spark I don't think anything is bad, you may just have low battery voltage, I would start by checking the battery first to make sure it's got enough juice to run the engine. Good luck.
Hello Eric my car its a 1993 honda accord and it has a totally different coil can you tell us how to test a coil or the igniter on this type of car? Also can you show us how we can use a simple test light since most of us can only afford the cheep stuff?
hay Eric.i have a 2000 Honda civic ex 1.6 that wont turn over.i have fuel,spark,timing is good.sounds like it wants to start but wont.can you help please.
@nico27004 You don't need to replace the entire distributor all you would need to replace is the coil. You might want to watch the video I did on replacing the distributor on my Integra for how to get the coil out as I believe that has a similar design.
I just did a valve job on my 94 civic d15b7, replaced the timing belt, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. when I first tried to turn the car on, it did so for about 30 seconds, after that it shut off and will not come back on. if it isn't the distributor, any other ideas?
@axlecriminal First thank you for your service. I don't advocate just replacing Honda distributors especially since I've seen so many problems with the aftermarket units. Is it a crank no start or a no crank no start?
@axlecriminal First thank you for your service. I don't advocate just replacing Honda distributors especially since I've seen so many problems with the aftermarket units. Is it a crank no start or a no crank no start?
hey eric the car guy i have a problem the car i am trying to buy is a acura the distributor i think is out on it he let his friend i gess brow his distributor and he put back in and now it dusent work it just keeps making the same sound on this vid how it was trying to turn over the lights and dore ding and everything else works but i am very confused and trying to think what do i have to get for it a cole? and inishion cole? or a hole new distributor
@musiclover4636 I don't recommend replacing distributors on Honda's with anything but OE units and the only reason to replace a distributor on a Honda is if it's leaking oil internally or full of orange dust. If you have a no start caused by a no spark condition then follow the steps in this video to find the source of the problem. Good luck.
Great videos! I 'm having this problem on a 1993 Honda civic ex 1.6. I tested at the - of the coil that leads back to the ignitor I get red + on the probe when I crank it light on probe shuts off and doesnt flicker. I pulled the ignitor off and took it to aaparts and had it tested and tested good, I wasn't too convinced since I was the one reading the instructions for connecting it the tester .Is there a way I can test it myself? If it is good could it be a crank sensor ?Dis was replaced b4.
@TekkHakk If it passed the test in this video and the light flashed when you cranked the engine at coil (-) then the igniter is good, if the power goes away perhaps you have an issue elsewhere in the circuit perhaps check all the fuses to make sure they are all good.
@EricTheCarGuy Hi, it didn't pass this test,it went red on probe and when cranked no flashing. I checked all the fuses and all are good. I was just curious and double checking so I took it to auto parts they tested it but I wasn't too convinced that it was good.I just want to make sure before I spend on parts for guessing. I called different auto parts and few want to sell me a whole Dis. hmmm, I will try to post a video , thanks for the help keep up the good work!
@TekkHakk By the sound of it the igniter is bad, I would replace that before the distributor as aftermarket distributors for Honda's are junk in my opinion. I know you said they tested it but it's either bad or you have something hooked up wrong from what your describing.
@EricTheCarGuy Hello, well I replaced the igniter and was a no start , I retested the new igniter with the "probe" and had no flash so for the heck of it I tested it with a "regular test" light and had flash with crank. I switched out the coil and car started right up. Thinking maybe my probe has to high of resitance where it doesn't flash while crank.Thanks for tips and fast replies, learned quite a bit.Keep up the good videos :)
And one more thing - the screw that is holding the ignition rotor could be a pain to move, i had a standard "star" ended bolt so it was no go - had to remove whole thing from the block and sacrifice the rotor to get the job done, then just replace the dumb bolt with a normal 8mm standard socket one - it will be a whole world of difference to remove it even after couple years if you add a little bit of copper grease on it as well
@mizer6666 Do not put any lubricants on the rotor screw as it normally comes with lock tight for a reason as you don't want it coming loose at high RPM inside the cap. If you have difficulty removing it all you have to do is tap it with a punch and hammer in a counterclockwise direction to knock it loose, you can also use an impact driver.
@EricTheCarGuy Thanks Eric. As far as lubricants-theoretically i agree but just a little bit of copper won`t hurt ( i don`t mean like soaking this thing in it, but just really a liittle tiny bit on the bottom of the thread ) i`ve been doing that on many cars-never head a fault and next time this car comes back with some ignition issuei don`t have to take the whole thing apart, muscling with that screw risking damage to other components of the whole assembly and it still sits tight
Since i recently did ignition job on couple of Hondas ( and Your video was more then helpfull ) - if You are sometimes at loss and not sure which one is bad, module or coil - in 90% of all cases if Your module is bad You would have an engine light as well, so if you have no spark on the coil and no check engine light - replace the coil - worked for me everytime.
@mizer6666 I don't agree with this as this simple test in this video will tell you EXACTLY what is at fault in less than 5 min. I don't teach the 'shotgun' approach and I don't feel that is a valid way to diagnose anything.
@EricTheCarGuy I agree with not taking shotgun approach, but if You have to risk it ( is situation like - not being able to go to work next day since Your car is dead and You don`t have even the test light to check the module and multimeter will not show those quick ground switching since it`s just simply to fast for it). I`ve also measured the coil for resistance like Honda manual says - the resistance was within the allowed range, but the coil was still faulty - no spark at all
@moisesalpha1 Look to find what is missing, spark, fuel, or an engine mechanical issue. Once you find out what's missing you'll be able to complete the diagnosis and perform a repair.
Hey ETCG. My car recently stalled after getting gas and wouldn't start up again. I had a shop diagnose the problem because I had thought it was a problem with the distributor. I put in a brand new distributor before taking it to the shop. The shop said my ECU went bad because it wasn't supplying any power to my distributor. So I took the car home, bought a stock ECU off a guy who likes to mod them on Ebay and hooked it up to my car. Now I get spark to my plugs but the engine wont start
@sidneyam Could it be I got the wrong ECU? The ECU connected to all the ports on the wiring harness but the only thing was, it didnt sit exactly in place like the old ECU
@sidneyam I'm at a complete loss on this one as I'm not an advocate of replacing distributors on Honda's unless they are leaking oil into the cap or they are filled with red dust and then I only recommend replacing with an OE unit. As for ECU's the only time I've ever seen them go bad is from damage from the outside (flood, hooking up a battery wrong, etc.), they don't normally just go out. Did you check the fuses?
@EricTheCarGuy I actually suspect it's something as simple as the fuse. Although i'm not too familiar with hondas. I own a 5 speed 1993 Acura Integra DOHC, pretty much a honda. Can you tell me which fuses I should be looking for? I've looked all over but I really don't know which fuses to check.
OK I hired a good electrician. Problem was the Injectors was not getting any current. He replaced a fuse and now the car starts. Hmm was a simple problem after all.
@HondaVtecDOHC Cool I'm glad you found it. Checking fuses should be one of the first steps in diagnosing a no start so if you run into that again be sure the check them. Thanks for the update.
Ok if the main relay is powering, car has a used P08 ECU that works, engine check light comes on and everything seems normal. New coil and ignitor for distributor.
And yet still the spark plugs gets no current whats the problem?
Could it be somewhere between the main relay and distributor a wire is burnt or something like that? What does it have between the main relay and the distributor?
@HondaVtecDOHC First the main relay has nothing to do with spark as it powers up the fuel pump and ECU so forget that. If you have spark at the coil and not at the plugs the problem is at the cap, rotor, or wires as stated in the video. Remember if you don't have power at the coil you need to look to the primary circuit for the cause so be sure to check all the fuses.
hey i was wondering if you could help me out please. ok i have this d16z6 civic that wont turn on i have changed the starter,dizzy,main relay and still wont crank. when i turn the key no noise comes up or anything but it will turn on when i push start it thats the only way it will crank up so if you have any ideas please help me this has been a big headache
I don't have spark on the plugs and no spark also on the coil. I'm about to test the igniter with a test light. Where will I connect the end of the wire from the test light? Positive or Negative? Love your videos. Thanks.
@cardahon Actually either will work but I would recommend negative, what your looking for is a blinking light as you crank, if it's not there replace the igniter, if it is, replace the coil.
@EricTheCarGuy - I replaced the igniter and the car ran for about 20 minutes, then suddenly it stalled. I tried restarting the car but it won't. I checked for spark and had no spark again. What do you think is the cause for the igniter going bad in less that an hour? Thanks.
@HondaVtecDOHC That's a tough one because it sounds like a special case. If you know you have spark and fuel then the next step is to check engine mechanical i.e. the mechanical and ignition timing of the engine and it's ability to produce compression.
Hmm well the problem is it won't get any current to the spark Plugs. If main Relay gets power, ECU has been replaced by another P08 ECU, New Coil and Ignitor for Distributor, Also Gets gas.
Then I assume the problem could be between the main relay and the distributor?
Ow btw does it matter if other letters are different on the ECU? Like my old one is a P08 and the new one is also a P08 but a couple numbers at the end are different. Is this an issue?
i have a honda accord 2.3l vtec n it wont turn over i replaced the rotor and distribiter cap n i also put new spark plugs i did the ignition test yu show us on here and i got a spark from my ignition but im not getting any spark at the end of the spark plug wires i did the screw driver test and i got nothing can yu help me out eric please an thank yu email me mravila@ymail.com
@abigailfshs2013 If you have spark at the coil but not at the plug it's the wire, cap, or rotor. Check them all for damage and make sure you replace them with quality parts, OE or NGK.
@EricTheCarGuy have yo worked for Honda/Acura? I used to work for a Honda Dealership for 3 years, then decided to go the college route, you sure do know your hondas!
i was driving my 1995 honda accord v6 and when i step on the gas pedal to turn my car turn off by it self and dosent want to start what can it be it trys to start but it wont start??? if u have any idea what it can be send me a message @ mr.rivas2010@yahoo.com
hey.. i seen your video and was tryin to do those test with a bad tool selection and stripped the screw holding on the rotor. any way to get it out or now do i have to just replace the whole distributor? and it dosnt really look safe but can i check the coil with the rotor on??
@udontno561 i had this same problem, they make a tool called a "Hand Impact Wrench" you just put the proper tip on it and whack it with a hammer. did the trick for me, i picked one up at the local Harbor Freight Tools for $5.99
yo eric,i have a 97 nissan maxima and in warm weather only,the key turns and goes to the engine starting position but nothing happens.The starter was replaced with a brand new one last year.Like i said,this problem only happens in warm weather,it does not happen once during winter.But you need to turn the key several times(depending on how hot it is) in order for it to start.Today was close to 100 degrees in my area and it took me 20 minutes to start the car.Im pretty sure its the ignitionswitch
@integraz32lover I would not condemn the switch right away, not all parts are created equal. You might want to check to see if you have a signal going to the starter solenoid when you turn the key, all you need is a test light, just put it on the wire and see if it lights up when a friend turns the key to the start position, if it lights up your ignition switch is good and your problem is likely with the starter.
i put sum aftermarket spark plugs on my 2000 civic si. it was working good bt all of the sudden it just turned off. it cranks bt it wnt start? wat would the problem be?? i tested the fuel pressure an its working fine. also, i opened the distributor an the ignition module wuznt workin? i replaced it bt it still wnt start! wat do you think the problem is??? thank you.
@civicpro13 Did you follow the steps in this video? Do you have a signal at the coil? Is there spark from the coil? Lastly I recommend you use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs for the best results.
Eric, if you have spark at the plugs and gas pressure, and the car will not start. Can the timing belt be broken. If the belt were broken can you have fire?
Eric, if you have spark at the plugs and gas pressure, and the car will not start. Can the timing belt be broken. If the belt were broken can you jave fire?
@SargeantH If you have spark then the belt is probably not broken but that doesn't mean that it couldn't be out of time which would be just as bad. Even if the belt didn't break it could have jumped time causing a no start.
Good video! Sometimes you can just see or hear the spark jumping to ground where it shouldn't due to a break in a secondary wire insulation or component, especially if it is a rainy day.
@binnsh That's why I use a spray bottle with water sprayed on the ignition system in the dark to check for leaks. I hope to make a video on this when the opportunity arises. Thanks for the comment.
hey eric...i have a 91 civic 1.5 crank no start...i get a weak ,intermittin spark sometimes but usually at first crank and then nothing afterwards...has a new igniter. rotor. cap. old oe wires(better quality than a.m.) i had the coil tested at autozone and it has 12.40 on the multi meter..is that a reliable reading or could it still be bad? thanks
@Biothumper79 I don't like cheep parts for Hondas if I'm honest but in your case I might remove the dist cap and see if the rotor moves when you crank the engine, you could have a problem with the timing belt.
Eric, I got a little lost while watching your no spark video when it came to checking the negative coil lead for switching with the powerprobe. You have a red wire connected to the coil outlet. Trying to figure out if this is a jumper wire to ground or if this wire is part of the powerprobe. By the way, this video is very informative! So can you help me out with this and identify what the read lead coming off the coil is. Thank you!
@simtech30 Don't worry about the lead coming off of the power probe, your just looking to see if you are getting a switching signal at the coil negative, if you don't see a signal replace the igniter, if you do see a signal, replace the coil.
@chrisline12 Just replace the effected parts and not the entire distributor, only replace the distributor if it's full of orange dust or leaking oil internally. There are only 2 problems that normally happen with a no spark on a Honda, a bad coil or a bad igniter, this video will show you which one is bad. Also check all the fuses as there is one for the ignition that if it's blown will cause a no spark condition. Also never replace the wires if they are OE and use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs.
hey erick the car guy you r awesome explaining however listen i tryed everything you mention about not staring the car. i have a 90 civic with a civic b16 vtech engine. i checked for fuel pressured and there is pressured, there wasnt spark i got it fix when i saw your video about distributor, it ended being the coil, so its now fix. i even check the compression on the engine and is ok all the cylinders but the car still wont star. am thinking is the timing right?
hey erick the car guy you r awesome explaining however listen i tryed everything you mention about not staring the car. i have a 90 civic with a civic b16 vtech engine. i checked for fuel pressured and there is pressured, there wasnt spark i got it fix when i saw your video about distributor, it ended being the coil, so its now fix. i even check the compression on the engine and is ok all the cylinders but the car still wont star. am thinking is the timing right?
@kkjoshua Find out what is missing, spark, fuel, or an engine mechanical issue, I've done videos on finding all of that stuff. It works much better than just replacing parts hoping they will work.
So what if you know that the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, dist., coil and igniter are all good but it still doesnt have spark. Would the only other option would be the ignition switch(tumbler) not giving power in the ON (II) position?
@jdmrcool13 Do you have power at the coil? Do you see the signal switching at the negative terminal at the coil? Just changing parts doesn't work you need to determine if the problem is in the primary or secondary part of the ignition system, don't guess, test.
i have 95 honda civic dx 2 door and it wont start, i dont have spark at all! my distributor is brand new, and i have electricity going to the distributor but it seems like it has low voltage and the battery is fully charge.
i check for fuel pressure and i have. all my electronic function, i checked for bad fuses and everything is fine, but i cant find the problem why it wont send spark at all
@rogersantosmolina First I don't like the aftermarket distributors as they are not as good as the OE, second did you perform the tests in this video as it shows how to diagnose a no spark problem on a Honda, a Civic at that.
He shows you if the igniter is having a problem, if the light doesn't light up on your test light, the cause is probably an igniter problem. Like he says. But, if the light is lit and not flickering, the problem is the triggering process isn't working correctly. This may be do to a lot of things, and what I did was went directly to the ECU. During testing I encountered both a steady light on the test light, and flickering, which is one of the reasons I was confused...
Correction to my suggestion comment (So I don't sound like an Idiot). When he shows you how to test the igniter, he says the light should be blinking, so thats pretty straight forward. But, when he shows you a bad igniter, the light is off completely, so it's not totally specific. So, if you're a noobie (me), the light may be lit (not blinking) while cranking, and you will automatically think the igniter is ok because you don't understand the 'triggering' link to the chain. Cont'd...
I just wanted to add. My suggestions aren't to undermine his knowledge and expertise, but simply to point out things he did not mention.
In addition to these suggestions, if you choose to do a another test on the coil (test light only). Clamp the lead of your test light to the POSITIVE side of the battery. Then touch the test light to the POSITIVE side of the coil. Now crank. If the light shuts off, the coil is good, if it's lit the coil is bad. And, make sure the coil is grounded sufficiently
2. When testing the cars igniter, the ignition coil must be grounded! I noticed you have your coil grounded with a test lead alligator clamp, but you do not mention it is crucial to have it grounded, or you may damage it.
3. While testing the Igniter, other than having no light, the light must also be flickering, not just lit. If the light on your test light is not flickering, the ECU is not triggering, or the igniter is bad.
My problem was the ECU, which sends the triggering signal to the Ignition Control Module (ICM), this is the "Igniter", igniter being the term he uses to describe it in this video. I'm not exactly sure of the actual cause of the ECU malfunction, I have ideas, but that's not important. Apparently, my cars computer systems aren't reset by simply pulling the power to the battery, this may depend on the make, model, and year of your car...
Being forced to really brain storm on the issue. I put two & two together, the CEL being on, and there being no spark. So, this may be a computer problem. I started digging around for info about the cars computer and ignition system, and found the ECU, or PCM etc... I found how to test it deep in Google, I tested it with a multimeter, and got no power (Hz), from the ECU. The first link of the chain there would be to reset the ECU. So, I did. Cont'd...
Page 8: Same problems, testing, and results. It's getting VERY weird now.
After replacing the cap & rotor, it fired right up (CEL is on now). So I repeated all the things I did before, and the car stalled again. I went to check for spark, nothing from plugs, or distributer, so I tested the coil. The coil WAS getting spark. Then (heres where it got weird), the coil stopped sparking! I'm stumped, and with NO info anywhere around the web about the generation of my car, I had to think. Cont'd.
I don't know much about uploading/editing a video, but I've found something that you may want to add to it (if possible). I was having a strange problem with my car. The car sat for awhile, and I don't know if that factors into my problem. You already know because you replied to my email. Thank you for that BTW, I appreciate you taking the time to read and reply. You're truly legit.
Anyways, here is what happened to my car, and how I solved it... Cont'd (Read my reply to this post).
@phorse Page 1: This section covers my cars make, model, year, specs (engine type), situation, and symptoms. You can choose to read if it applies to you, or if you're interested.
After letting my 1999 Honda Civic EX (1.6L SOHC, no VTEC) sit for awhile, I started it just to get fluids running through, and to get parts moving. After revving the engine (5-6k RPM), the car stalled. After that it would start for a second, then stall again. After that, I let it sit for another 6-8 months. Cont'd...
@phorse Page 2 (cont'd): This section covers more of my situation, symptoms, parts I replaced, and results and complications after replacement.
After it sat in the garage for 6-8 months, I changed the battery, it was over the end of it's life (3 years), and needed to be replaced anyway. I also purchased Spark Plugs/wires, HEET, Lucas Fuel Injector/system cleaner, and 6 gallons of gas. After adding/installing everything, the car fired right up, and everything was normal at idle. Cont.d...
How do I change the igniter??????
bigbuckjeff1 8 hours ago
I havent been able to figure outmy problem but this ignition troubleshooting video is so thorough. Where can I DONATE?
SydeshowMO 1 week ago
Hi Eric i was on my way to work and my car just died its a honda civic i checked it out theirs no spark no fuel pump sound but its cranking i changed the relay,ecu,dizzy, and check all fuse still not starting any ideas i was told to check ground wires but if thats not the problem i dont know what els to check also the timing belt look ok the top cams are spinning when i crank it ?
jdmlover2011 2 weeks ago
Eric when I Finnish my trenny swap I had no spark I did the diagnose and had power in my distributor but for some reason it wasnt making it pass to the cap I was going crazy tell I found out it was my ecu needed a manual ecu
vinceperez158 2 weeks ago
hey eric, i have a 91 civic. Problem is that my tachometer will not read past 1000 rpm. when i start the vehicle, it shows it idling but as soon as i accelerate it wont pass 1000 rpm.
dre1162 2 weeks ago
Gr8 video.Ive had starting issues with my Honda!I have a 92 Civic Hatch but a 94 integra motor swap.I have a MSD external coil and control box.I have spark comin out of the coil.I test that by tapping a ground to the trigger wire of the MSD box,but still now start!I have a reman Distributor and Ive been tryin to test that!I have pwr to the igniter,test light is on when i touch the pwr prong but when i test the negative prong i get neither a light or flashing light!Is igniter bad?
icemanvf143 3 weeks ago
Great point.. diagnose before fixing with new parts
BabyShowerStuffcom 3 weeks ago
Thank you dude!
dalturbo 3 weeks ago
Eric, this work that you're doing represents the BEST of what people can do to make the internet useful for people!!! THANKS!
MCRIZZLE1 4 weeks ago
Dear Eric. THANK YOU!!!!!
jippy104 1 month ago
Great video! Hoping this will help me get my 93 Accord fixed. About a month ago, I noticed it was idling very rough, almost wanting to die, and due to a wreck, I wasnt driving it much thereafter that time. Ever snce then it will start and run just fine for 20 minutes or so, but once the engine is warm, it will not start. Crank and crank, but no start. I have checked, and have fuel, and the main relay is new, so I know thats okay, just trying to go through process of elimination...Ideas?
ChrisLyn2788 1 month ago
GREAT VIDEO! I gave my 94 Civic Si full tune-up thinking the filters were all clogged. Then figured out my coil was bad because of this video. HAHA. thanks!
daileyvideos 1 month ago
I just subscribed good videos and this one helped me out because now I have some clue of what to check for on my checklist of whats wrong with my civic.
dHmongDudecAncOOk 1 month ago
hi eric i have a 1993 honda civic hatch back and it has a b16a3 motor swap in it that come out of a 95 honda del sol . my car will turn over and you can even hear the fuel pump kick on but it won't start. i also noticed a burning smell inside my distributor cap.. just i just put a whole new distributor on the car a few days ago. i was driving and my car just cut off on me and all my dashlights came on... can u please help me out here? also the car is chipped so i don't understand.
benzo317fyi 2 months ago
Hi Eric,
When checking the ignitor @ 5:45 while touching the Negative, if using a test light, would the other end (alligator clip) be hook up to body ground? Thanks....
blue828nc 2 months ago in playlist Favorite videos
how about fuse
1035honda 2 months ago
Thanks very much Eric. I find your videos very helpful. Are you able to do some videos on carburettor tuning for the older vehicles? Setting the choke, float level, idle mixture, idle speed. Many thanks
DRJIVAN 2 months ago
hey eric youve helped me before and i replaced to the igniton coil on my civic 98. I used a accel coil instead of a honda, as well as replaced cap and rotor - only 1 year old ,and i have been misfiring cause the cap is extremely coroded as well as the coil. I have a dark brownish red looks like tobacco shreds, im gonna clean it but wondering where these tobacco look alike shreds came from and why, cause my coil is still firing spark. when i last changed my coil everythis was very clean.
01sirvtec 2 months ago
Eric
thanks much. I followed your diagnosis video on my sons civic, evne picked up a test light for about 8 Bucks. Replaced the rotor,plugs and cap to start with as they were pretty bad. The culprit, however, was the ignition coil. A little tricky getting the screws off the wire contacts without stripping, but it fires up like new now.
thanks
RalphD
7436188 2 months ago
hi there. thanks for the vid. I have a 98 accord V6 coupe. I opened the distributor cap, then cranked in order to have access to the screw on rotor. I replaced both the cap and the rotor. Do u think this operation would mess up ignition timing? Thx
adomayor 2 months ago
subscribed for helping me
johnoppa 2 months ago
Fixed my starting problem thanks man it was my igniter coil! you helped me so much now my car starts right up on first crank!
RoyalTec 3 months ago
@RoyalTec Awesome, I'm happy the video helped. Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 2 months ago
I used this video as a guide to diagnose my car's no start condition. I found out that my ignition coil on honda civic 2000 was not putting out spark at secondary terminal.
Thanks Eric The Car God. You video's are very detailed and helpful.
tehzeeb69 2 months ago
Eric,
Thanks for the quick response. I actually checked all fuses under dash and in the engine bay under the hood. they are working fine. Unless ignition fuse is in a different spot, other than under dash on driver side. I checked all with special attention to the ones labeled IG(not sure if that's for ignition), again all working fine. By the way fuel is also going to sparks, cause when I pulled them they were pretty wet with gas. Already dry them though. Crank is strong, just wont' start.HELP
jastube17911 3 months ago
@jastube17911 If the plugs are wet you might be flooded, dry the plugs and when you go to start it try putting your foot to the floor on the gas while you crank the engine this will turn off the fuel injectors to help 'clear the flood'.
EricTheCarGuy 2 months ago
Hi Eric,
I have 1994 Acura Integra Ls. My car only cranks, but won't start. I checked and had no spark to spark plugs, and did troubleshooting checks just like on your video, From sparkplugs, to distributor coil, to igniter. There was not power going to distributor period! I do have a Remote start alarm installed on this car for the last 10yrs, but alarms still works fine, and tech adv me since my car still cranks alarm is not at fault. I was told it could be the ECM. Please help. Thanks!
jastube17911 3 months ago
@jastube17911 Not likely to be the ECM, try checking the fuses, the ignition actually has it's own use under the dash if I'm not mistaken.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
Nice to see you again :-)
TeeWeeQcKsteel 3 months ago in playlist Weitere Videos von EricTheCarGuy
@TeeWeeQcKsteel Nice to see you too.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
TO ERIC:
I replace the entire distributor and still no spark... Any ideal what else it could be???
We even checked all the fuses and fuel pump is fine too. My neighbor says my timing is off where my belt is. Could that cause no spark???
prinnyjag 3 months ago
@prinnyjag I NEVER recommend replacement of the distributor on a Honda for a no spark situation, I always advocate doing this test to find the source of the problem. It's not a bad idea to check the mechanical timing of the engine if you know you have spark and fuel. You need to find out what you are missing first spark, fuel, or an engine mechanical issue.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
Very helpful. Thanks for your video!
prinnyjag 3 months ago
@prinnyjag Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
Hi Eric! Thank you so much for your help! I have a quick question. I have a 95 Honda Civic DX. I found out that the ignitor is switching the coil, yet the coil is not working. When I opened the distributor cap, however, I saw a small amount of oil in the cap. Here is my question: If I instal a new ignition coil, will the oil continue to leak and ruin the new coil? Or, should I simply go ahead and install and entire new distributor? Thank you again!
FollowingJohn 3 months ago
@FollowingJohn In that situation I would be replacing the coil AND the distributor sub assembly. I highly recommend using an OE distributor as I've seen lots of problems with the aftermarket units.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
eric if i do the test with a test light i have to touch the resistor??? and the ignition have to be on or cranking ?
1989purry 3 months ago
@1989purry No, you want to put the tester on coil negative, you might want to watch the video again.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
eric what about if check the spark plug and is working and check the cable coil and is no working what is the problem the cap distributor ??
1989purry 3 months ago
@1989purry I'm not sure I understand your question but if you have spark at the plugs the ignition system is working, you may have a problem with timing.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
hi Eric, i checked my coil for spark and there is only one spark when you start to crank and thats it. then i went to see if the igniter is bad and it wasnt going on and off like in the video so i replaced it and it still wont work what else could it be?
TheCivicdrifter 3 months ago
@TheCivicdrifter You might want to make sure that the cam is spinning like it should, if the distributer does not rotate with the engine it will exhibit a condition like that.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
@ericthecarguy
my car ran out of gas.. put gas in.. still no start... went tto the spark plugs.. its getting an orange spark.. no purple spark... is the coil or igniter bad? its gettin spark but enough? can ggapping the spark plugs to the correct gap and cleaning thee coil on the plug help it start? its a 92 toyota paseo.. EFI .. So its ffuel injected.. its gettin gas.. its not clogged... so what you think i can do?
EricxXx49 4 months ago
@EricxXx49 If your getting spark I don't think anything is bad, you may just have low battery voltage, I would start by checking the battery first to make sure it's got enough juice to run the engine. Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
@EricxXx49
Hello Eric my car its a 1993 honda accord and it has a totally different coil can you tell us how to test a coil or the igniter on this type of car?
2daybmine 3 months ago
@EricxXx49
Hello Eric my car its a 1993 honda accord and it has a totally different coil can you tell us how to test a coil or the igniter on this type of car? Also can you show us how we can use a simple test light since most of us can only afford the cheep stuff?
2daybmine 3 months ago
hey Eric thanks so much for your help now i know thet my 95 civic ex coil is bad
ribak1983 4 months ago
@ribak1983 Sweet, I'm glad the video helped you find it. Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
thanks for the video, gonna try this soon :)
koeix2 4 months ago
@koeix2 Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
hay Eric.i have a 2000 Honda civic ex 1.6 that wont turn over.i have fuel,spark,timing is good.sounds like it wants to start but wont.can you help please.
19134ANDY 4 months ago
@19134ANDY If it's not turning over as you say then you might benefit more from the Starter Diagnosis 101 video. Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
thanks for the great video.
kevinlaw88 5 months ago
@kevinlaw88 Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
thanks for the great video.
kevinlaw88 5 months ago
if the coil is bad can you take it off of the distributor or do you need a new distributor?
nico27004 5 months ago
@nico27004 You don't need to replace the entire distributor all you would need to replace is the coil. You might want to watch the video I did on replacing the distributor on my Integra for how to get the coil out as I believe that has a similar design.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
I just did a valve job on my 94 civic d15b7, replaced the timing belt, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. when I first tried to turn the car on, it did so for about 30 seconds, after that it shut off and will not come back on. if it isn't the distributor, any other ideas?
thanks -danny USMC
axlecriminal 5 months ago
@axlecriminal First thank you for your service. I don't advocate just replacing Honda distributors especially since I've seen so many problems with the aftermarket units. Is it a crank no start or a no crank no start?
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
@axlecriminal First thank you for your service. I don't advocate just replacing Honda distributors especially since I've seen so many problems with the aftermarket units. Is it a crank no start or a no crank no start?
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
hey eric the car guy i have a problem the car i am trying to buy is a acura the distributor i think is out on it he let his friend i gess brow his distributor and he put back in and now it dusent work it just keeps making the same sound on this vid how it was trying to turn over the lights and dore ding and everything else works but i am very confused and trying to think what do i have to get for it a cole? and inishion cole? or a hole new distributor
musiclover4636 5 months ago
@musiclover4636 I don't recommend replacing distributors on Honda's with anything but OE units and the only reason to replace a distributor on a Honda is if it's leaking oil internally or full of orange dust. If you have a no start caused by a no spark condition then follow the steps in this video to find the source of the problem. Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
nice tutorial thanks for the help
angelit04u 6 months ago
@angelit04u Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
oem honda!!!!!!!!
golfmanmatt 6 months ago
Great videos! I 'm having this problem on a 1993 Honda civic ex 1.6. I tested at the - of the coil that leads back to the ignitor I get red + on the probe when I crank it light on probe shuts off and doesnt flicker. I pulled the ignitor off and took it to aaparts and had it tested and tested good, I wasn't too convinced since I was the one reading the instructions for connecting it the tester .Is there a way I can test it myself? If it is good could it be a crank sensor ?Dis was replaced b4.
TekkHakk 6 months ago
@TekkHakk If it passed the test in this video and the light flashed when you cranked the engine at coil (-) then the igniter is good, if the power goes away perhaps you have an issue elsewhere in the circuit perhaps check all the fuses to make sure they are all good.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy Hi, it didn't pass this test,it went red on probe and when cranked no flashing. I checked all the fuses and all are good. I was just curious and double checking so I took it to auto parts they tested it but I wasn't too convinced that it was good.I just want to make sure before I spend on parts for guessing. I called different auto parts and few want to sell me a whole Dis. hmmm, I will try to post a video , thanks for the help keep up the good work!
TekkHakk 6 months ago
@TekkHakk By the sound of it the igniter is bad, I would replace that before the distributor as aftermarket distributors for Honda's are junk in my opinion. I know you said they tested it but it's either bad or you have something hooked up wrong from what your describing.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy Hello, well I replaced the igniter and was a no start , I retested the new igniter with the "probe" and had no flash so for the heck of it I tested it with a "regular test" light and had flash with crank. I switched out the coil and car started right up. Thinking maybe my probe has to high of resitance where it doesn't flash while crank.Thanks for tips and fast replies, learned quite a bit.Keep up the good videos :)
TekkHakk 6 months ago
@TekkHakk Thanks for posting the resolution on this as it is always good to know what the 'fix' is.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
Comment removed
TekkHakk 6 months ago
And one more thing - the screw that is holding the ignition rotor could be a pain to move, i had a standard "star" ended bolt so it was no go - had to remove whole thing from the block and sacrifice the rotor to get the job done, then just replace the dumb bolt with a normal 8mm standard socket one - it will be a whole world of difference to remove it even after couple years if you add a little bit of copper grease on it as well
mizer6666 6 months ago
@mizer6666 Do not put any lubricants on the rotor screw as it normally comes with lock tight for a reason as you don't want it coming loose at high RPM inside the cap. If you have difficulty removing it all you have to do is tap it with a punch and hammer in a counterclockwise direction to knock it loose, you can also use an impact driver.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy Thanks Eric. As far as lubricants-theoretically i agree but just a little bit of copper won`t hurt ( i don`t mean like soaking this thing in it, but just really a liittle tiny bit on the bottom of the thread ) i`ve been doing that on many cars-never head a fault and next time this car comes back with some ignition issuei don`t have to take the whole thing apart, muscling with that screw risking damage to other components of the whole assembly and it still sits tight
mizer6666 6 months ago
Since i recently did ignition job on couple of Hondas ( and Your video was more then helpfull ) - if You are sometimes at loss and not sure which one is bad, module or coil - in 90% of all cases if Your module is bad You would have an engine light as well, so if you have no spark on the coil and no check engine light - replace the coil - worked for me everytime.
mizer6666 6 months ago
@mizer6666 I don't agree with this as this simple test in this video will tell you EXACTLY what is at fault in less than 5 min. I don't teach the 'shotgun' approach and I don't feel that is a valid way to diagnose anything.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy I agree with not taking shotgun approach, but if You have to risk it ( is situation like - not being able to go to work next day since Your car is dead and You don`t have even the test light to check the module and multimeter will not show those quick ground switching since it`s just simply to fast for it). I`ve also measured the coil for resistance like Honda manual says - the resistance was within the allowed range, but the coil was still faulty - no spark at all
mizer6666 6 months ago
sorry. the engine does not start.
moisesalpha1 6 months ago
@moisesalpha1 Look to find what is missing, spark, fuel, or an engine mechanical issue. Once you find out what's missing you'll be able to complete the diagnosis and perform a repair.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
thats good information. what about an ignition switch for a honda accord dx 1994.. it turns the engine over but it does not come on
moisesalpha1 6 months ago
@moisesalpha1 Not sure I follow your question, what doesn't come on?
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
Hey ETCG. My car recently stalled after getting gas and wouldn't start up again. I had a shop diagnose the problem because I had thought it was a problem with the distributor. I put in a brand new distributor before taking it to the shop. The shop said my ECU went bad because it wasn't supplying any power to my distributor. So I took the car home, bought a stock ECU off a guy who likes to mod them on Ebay and hooked it up to my car. Now I get spark to my plugs but the engine wont start
sidneyam 6 months ago
@sidneyam Could it be I got the wrong ECU? The ECU connected to all the ports on the wiring harness but the only thing was, it didnt sit exactly in place like the old ECU
sidneyam 6 months ago
@sidneyam I'm at a complete loss on this one as I'm not an advocate of replacing distributors on Honda's unless they are leaking oil into the cap or they are filled with red dust and then I only recommend replacing with an OE unit. As for ECU's the only time I've ever seen them go bad is from damage from the outside (flood, hooking up a battery wrong, etc.), they don't normally just go out. Did you check the fuses?
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy I actually suspect it's something as simple as the fuse. Although i'm not too familiar with hondas. I own a 5 speed 1993 Acura Integra DOHC, pretty much a honda. Can you tell me which fuses I should be looking for? I've looked all over but I really don't know which fuses to check.
sidneyam 6 months ago
@sidneyam Check them all, under the dash and under the hood.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
OK I hired a good electrician. Problem was the Injectors was not getting any current. He replaced a fuse and now the car starts. Hmm was a simple problem after all.
HondaVtecDOHC 7 months ago
@HondaVtecDOHC Cool I'm glad you found it. Checking fuses should be one of the first steps in diagnosing a no start so if you run into that again be sure the check them. Thanks for the update.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
Ok if the main relay is powering, car has a used P08 ECU that works, engine check light comes on and everything seems normal. New coil and ignitor for distributor.
And yet still the spark plugs gets no current whats the problem?
Could it be somewhere between the main relay and distributor a wire is burnt or something like that? What does it have between the main relay and the distributor?
My Mechanic and Electrician is clueless.
HondaVtecDOHC 7 months ago
@HondaVtecDOHC First the main relay has nothing to do with spark as it powers up the fuel pump and ECU so forget that. If you have spark at the coil and not at the plugs the problem is at the cap, rotor, or wires as stated in the video. Remember if you don't have power at the coil you need to look to the primary circuit for the cause so be sure to check all the fuses.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy
Yeah ow thanks for all ur help will be useful in future also. Like I posted earlier the problem was a fuse, the car works fine now.
HondaVtecDOHC 7 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
eric plz email me at fidelrodriguez52@gmail.com please asap
damianypaige4ever 7 months ago
hey i was wondering if you could help me out please. ok i have this d16z6 civic that wont turn on i have changed the starter,dizzy,main relay and still wont crank. when i turn the key no noise comes up or anything but it will turn on when i push start it thats the only way it will crank up so if you have any ideas please help me this has been a big headache
damianypaige4ever 7 months ago
@damianypaige4ever I'm wondering if I've answered this comment on another video, if not let me know.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
I don't have spark on the plugs and no spark also on the coil. I'm about to test the igniter with a test light. Where will I connect the end of the wire from the test light? Positive or Negative? Love your videos. Thanks.
cardahon 7 months ago
@cardahon Actually either will work but I would recommend negative, what your looking for is a blinking light as you crank, if it's not there replace the igniter, if it is, replace the coil.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy - I replaced the igniter and the car ran for about 20 minutes, then suddenly it stalled. I tried restarting the car but it won't. I checked for spark and had no spark again. What do you think is the cause for the igniter going bad in less that an hour? Thanks.
cardahon 7 months ago
@cardahon How do you know the igniter is bad?
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
Hi I have a civic that won't start/.
Mechanic said it was the distributor since it was not getting any spark coming out with the screw driver test
I got a electrician to change the coil and ignitor module thingy.
Then car still didn't start when we checked the ECU we saw part of the board was black. Burned pretty bad. Capacitor blew up.
I got another ECU and guess what car still won't start no spark to the plugs with the screw driver test.
Main Relay has power. It gets gas also
HondaVtecDOHC 7 months ago
@HondaVtecDOHC That's a tough one because it sounds like a special case. If you know you have spark and fuel then the next step is to check engine mechanical i.e. the mechanical and ignition timing of the engine and it's ability to produce compression.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy
Hmm well the problem is it won't get any current to the spark Plugs. If main Relay gets power, ECU has been replaced by another P08 ECU, New Coil and Ignitor for Distributor, Also Gets gas.
Then I assume the problem could be between the main relay and the distributor?
Ow btw does it matter if other letters are different on the ECU? Like my old one is a P08 and the new one is also a P08 but a couple numbers at the end are different. Is this an issue?
HondaVtecDOHC 7 months ago
i have a honda accord 2.3l vtec n it wont turn over i replaced the rotor and distribiter cap n i also put new spark plugs i did the ignition test yu show us on here and i got a spark from my ignition but im not getting any spark at the end of the spark plug wires i did the screw driver test and i got nothing can yu help me out eric please an thank yu email me mravila@ymail.com
abigailfshs2013 8 months ago
@abigailfshs2013 If you have spark at the coil but not at the plug it's the wire, cap, or rotor. Check them all for damage and make sure you replace them with quality parts, OE or NGK.
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
hey eric do you have a RDX too?
iColorado303 8 months ago
@iColorado303 No.
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy have yo worked for Honda/Acura? I used to work for a Honda Dealership for 3 years, then decided to go the college route, you sure do know your hondas!
iColorado303 8 months ago
@iColorado303 I'm an Acura master tech, check the About page on my website.
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
i was driving my 1995 honda accord v6 and when i step on the gas pedal to turn my car turn off by it self and dosent want to start what can it be it trys to start but it wont start??? if u have any idea what it can be send me a message @ mr.rivas2010@yahoo.com
AdmiralRivas 8 months ago
@AdmiralRivas See what is missing, spark, fuel, or a mechanical issue (check for broken timing belt and do a compression check).
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
hey.. i seen your video and was tryin to do those test with a bad tool selection and stripped the screw holding on the rotor. any way to get it out or now do i have to just replace the whole distributor? and it dosnt really look safe but can i check the coil with the rotor on??
udontno561 8 months ago
@udontno561 You will have to break the top of the rotor off and turn the screw out with a pair of vice grips. Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy that's too much work, just use the hand impact. works like a charm.
stevetxbc 7 months ago
@udontno561 i had this same problem, they make a tool called a "Hand Impact Wrench" you just put the proper tip on it and whack it with a hammer. did the trick for me, i picked one up at the local Harbor Freight Tools for $5.99
stevetxbc 7 months ago
@stevetxbc It's also referred to as an 'impact driver'.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
yo eric,i have a 97 nissan maxima and in warm weather only,the key turns and goes to the engine starting position but nothing happens.The starter was replaced with a brand new one last year.Like i said,this problem only happens in warm weather,it does not happen once during winter.But you need to turn the key several times(depending on how hot it is) in order for it to start.Today was close to 100 degrees in my area and it took me 20 minutes to start the car.Im pretty sure its the ignitionswitch
integraz32lover 8 months ago
@integraz32lover I would not condemn the switch right away, not all parts are created equal. You might want to check to see if you have a signal going to the starter solenoid when you turn the key, all you need is a test light, just put it on the wire and see if it lights up when a friend turns the key to the start position, if it lights up your ignition switch is good and your problem is likely with the starter.
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy Ok ill try that,btw the starter was replaced with a brand new one last year.Thanks for your help!!!
integraz32lover 8 months ago
@integraz32lover Not all parts are created equal, especially the remanufactured ones, it's worth looking into anyway.
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy Ok ill try to figure it out.Thanks for the help man,i apericate it!
integraz32lover 8 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy Btw can you use a volt meter for this instead of a test light?
integraz32lover 8 months ago
@integraz32lover Perhaps, I just think it's easier to see a flashing light instead of changing voltage, depends on how quick your DVOM display is.
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy Ok Thanks!
integraz32lover 8 months ago
You save my life and money !! Thank you!!
corpmedia 8 months ago
@corpmedia I only set out to save you money but saving your life is a bonus! Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
i put sum aftermarket spark plugs on my 2000 civic si. it was working good bt all of the sudden it just turned off. it cranks bt it wnt start? wat would the problem be?? i tested the fuel pressure an its working fine. also, i opened the distributor an the ignition module wuznt workin? i replaced it bt it still wnt start! wat do you think the problem is??? thank you.
civicpro13 9 months ago
@civicpro13 Did you follow the steps in this video? Do you have a signal at the coil? Is there spark from the coil? Lastly I recommend you use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs for the best results.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
Thanks for your help Eric, I'll let you know how it turns out. Sgt H
SargeantH 9 months ago
@SargeantH Great, good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
Eric, if you have spark at the plugs and gas pressure, and the car will not start. Can the timing belt be broken. If the belt were broken can you have fire?
SargeantH 9 months ago
Eric, if you have spark at the plugs and gas pressure, and the car will not start. Can the timing belt be broken. If the belt were broken can you jave fire?
SargeantH 9 months ago
@SargeantH If you have spark then the belt is probably not broken but that doesn't mean that it couldn't be out of time which would be just as bad. Even if the belt didn't break it could have jumped time causing a no start.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
The spray bottle of water is a good trick!
binnsh 9 months ago
The spray bottle of water is a good trick!
binnsh 9 months ago
Good video! Sometimes you can just see or hear the spark jumping to ground where it shouldn't due to a break in a secondary wire insulation or component, especially if it is a rainy day.
binnsh 9 months ago
@binnsh That's why I use a spray bottle with water sprayed on the ignition system in the dark to check for leaks. I hope to make a video on this when the opportunity arises. Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
hey eric...i have a 91 civic 1.5 crank no start...i get a weak ,intermittin spark sometimes but usually at first crank and then nothing afterwards...has a new igniter. rotor. cap. old oe wires(better quality than a.m.) i had the coil tested at autozone and it has 12.40 on the multi meter..is that a reliable reading or could it still be bad? thanks
Biothumper79 9 months ago
@Biothumper79 I don't like cheep parts for Hondas if I'm honest but in your case I might remove the dist cap and see if the rotor moves when you crank the engine, you could have a problem with the timing belt.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
Eric, I got a little lost while watching your no spark video when it came to checking the negative coil lead for switching with the powerprobe. You have a red wire connected to the coil outlet. Trying to figure out if this is a jumper wire to ground or if this wire is part of the powerprobe. By the way, this video is very informative! So can you help me out with this and identify what the read lead coming off the coil is. Thank you!
simtech30 9 months ago
@simtech30 Don't worry about the lead coming off of the power probe, your just looking to see if you are getting a switching signal at the coil negative, if you don't see a signal replace the igniter, if you do see a signal, replace the coil.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
I missing spark. Is there a cheaper way to have oem
chrisline12 9 months ago
@chrisline12 Just replace the effected parts and not the entire distributor, only replace the distributor if it's full of orange dust or leaking oil internally. There are only 2 problems that normally happen with a no spark on a Honda, a bad coil or a bad igniter, this video will show you which one is bad. Also check all the fuses as there is one for the ignition that if it's blown will cause a no spark condition. Also never replace the wires if they are OE and use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
Put a new distributor on started ran for 15.sec then died no more starting. Could this be the timing? Thanks so much Eric
chrisline12 9 months ago
@chrisline12 What is missing, spark or fuel? BTW I really don't like aftermarket Honda distributors as I've seen a lot of issues with them.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
Eric what if you have a external coil?
chrisline12 9 months ago
@chrisline12 Same test, the coil location does not change how it operates.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
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hey erick the car guy you r awesome explaining however listen i tryed everything you mention about not staring the car. i have a 90 civic with a civic b16 vtech engine. i checked for fuel pressured and there is pressured, there wasnt spark i got it fix when i saw your video about distributor, it ended being the coil, so its now fix. i even check the compression on the engine and is ok all the cylinders but the car still wont star. am thinking is the timing right?
kkjoshua 10 months ago
hey erick the car guy you r awesome explaining however listen i tryed everything you mention about not staring the car. i have a 90 civic with a civic b16 vtech engine. i checked for fuel pressured and there is pressured, there wasnt spark i got it fix when i saw your video about distributor, it ended being the coil, so its now fix. i even check the compression on the engine and is ok all the cylinders but the car still wont star. am thinking is the timing right?
kkjoshua 10 months ago
@kkjoshua Find out what is missing, spark, fuel, or an engine mechanical issue, I've done videos on finding all of that stuff. It works much better than just replacing parts hoping they will work.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
So what if you know that the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, dist., coil and igniter are all good but it still doesnt have spark. Would the only other option would be the ignition switch(tumbler) not giving power in the ON (II) position?
jdmrcool13 10 months ago
@jdmrcool13 Do you have power at the coil? Do you see the signal switching at the negative terminal at the coil? Just changing parts doesn't work you need to determine if the problem is in the primary or secondary part of the ignition system, don't guess, test.
EricTheCarGuy 10 months ago
i have 95 honda civic dx 2 door and it wont start, i dont have spark at all! my distributor is brand new, and i have electricity going to the distributor but it seems like it has low voltage and the battery is fully charge.
i check for fuel pressure and i have. all my electronic function, i checked for bad fuses and everything is fine, but i cant find the problem why it wont send spark at all
rogersantosmolina 10 months ago
@rogersantosmolina First I don't like the aftermarket distributors as they are not as good as the OE, second did you perform the tests in this video as it shows how to diagnose a no spark problem on a Honda, a Civic at that.
EricTheCarGuy 10 months ago
@spazzman2323 Well that is an interesting proposition indeed. :)
EricTheCarGuy 10 months ago
you're the best how to car guy on youtube!!
grandmasterslic 10 months ago
@grandmasterslic Thank you!
EricTheCarGuy 10 months ago
He shows you if the igniter is having a problem, if the light doesn't light up on your test light, the cause is probably an igniter problem. Like he says. But, if the light is lit and not flickering, the problem is the triggering process isn't working correctly. This may be do to a lot of things, and what I did was went directly to the ECU. During testing I encountered both a steady light on the test light, and flickering, which is one of the reasons I was confused...
A lot of posts. Sorry...
phorse 11 months ago
Correction to my suggestion comment (So I don't sound like an Idiot). When he shows you how to test the igniter, he says the light should be blinking, so thats pretty straight forward. But, when he shows you a bad igniter, the light is off completely, so it's not totally specific. So, if you're a noobie (me), the light may be lit (not blinking) while cranking, and you will automatically think the igniter is ok because you don't understand the 'triggering' link to the chain. Cont'd...
phorse 11 months ago
I just wanted to add. My suggestions aren't to undermine his knowledge and expertise, but simply to point out things he did not mention.
In addition to these suggestions, if you choose to do a another test on the coil (test light only). Clamp the lead of your test light to the POSITIVE side of the battery. Then touch the test light to the POSITIVE side of the coil. Now crank. If the light shuts off, the coil is good, if it's lit the coil is bad. And, make sure the coil is grounded sufficiently
phorse 11 months ago
Comment removed
phorse 11 months ago
I would suggest adding these to the video.
1. Mentioning the ECU.
2. When testing the cars igniter, the ignition coil must be grounded! I noticed you have your coil grounded with a test lead alligator clamp, but you do not mention it is crucial to have it grounded, or you may damage it.
3. While testing the Igniter, other than having no light, the light must also be flickering, not just lit. If the light on your test light is not flickering, the ECU is not triggering, or the igniter is bad.
phorse 11 months ago
Page 10: The problem, and solution (cont'd)...
My problem was the ECU, which sends the triggering signal to the Ignition Control Module (ICM), this is the "Igniter", igniter being the term he uses to describe it in this video. I'm not exactly sure of the actual cause of the ECU malfunction, I have ideas, but that's not important. Apparently, my cars computer systems aren't reset by simply pulling the power to the battery, this may depend on the make, model, and year of your car...
phorse 11 months ago
Page 9: Testing, results, and SOLUTION.
Being forced to really brain storm on the issue. I put two & two together, the CEL being on, and there being no spark. So, this may be a computer problem. I started digging around for info about the cars computer and ignition system, and found the ECU, or PCM etc... I found how to test it deep in Google, I tested it with a multimeter, and got no power (Hz), from the ECU. The first link of the chain there would be to reset the ECU. So, I did. Cont'd...
phorse 11 months ago
Page 8: Same problems, testing, and results. It's getting VERY weird now.
After replacing the cap & rotor, it fired right up (CEL is on now). So I repeated all the things I did before, and the car stalled again. I went to check for spark, nothing from plugs, or distributer, so I tested the coil. The coil WAS getting spark. Then (heres where it got weird), the coil stopped sparking! I'm stumped, and with NO info anywhere around the web about the generation of my car, I had to think. Cont'd.
phorse 11 months ago
Eric,
I don't know much about uploading/editing a video, but I've found something that you may want to add to it (if possible). I was having a strange problem with my car. The car sat for awhile, and I don't know if that factors into my problem. You already know because you replied to my email. Thank you for that BTW, I appreciate you taking the time to read and reply. You're truly legit.
Anyways, here is what happened to my car, and how I solved it... Cont'd (Read my reply to this post).
phorse 11 months ago
@phorse Page 1: This section covers my cars make, model, year, specs (engine type), situation, and symptoms. You can choose to read if it applies to you, or if you're interested.
After letting my 1999 Honda Civic EX (1.6L SOHC, no VTEC) sit for awhile, I started it just to get fluids running through, and to get parts moving. After revving the engine (5-6k RPM), the car stalled. After that it would start for a second, then stall again. After that, I let it sit for another 6-8 months. Cont'd...
phorse 11 months ago
@phorse Page 2 (cont'd): This section covers more of my situation, symptoms, parts I replaced, and results and complications after replacement.
After it sat in the garage for 6-8 months, I changed the battery, it was over the end of it's life (3 years), and needed to be replaced anyway. I also purchased Spark Plugs/wires, HEET, Lucas Fuel Injector/system cleaner, and 6 gallons of gas. After adding/installing everything, the car fired right up, and everything was normal at idle. Cont.d...
phorse 11 months ago