Added: 2 years ago
From: Bertminator
Views: 8,064
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  • Question do you know if that finish is food safe after drying, I know most poly's and shelac's are? I use Salad Bowl finish at this time

    Next to get a ring indent on my bowls I use a skew either a 1/2 inch or 1 inch and work carefully from the center out. I leave at least a 1 inch to 1 1/2 inch outer ring on mine sometimes smaller if it is a smaller bowl then I may put decorative rings in the center indent just for looks. Mine turn out nice. wish I had a video of it, maybe I will work on that.

  • @lorddennis1 Hi there, as far as I know (and been told), once the smell is gone from the poly or lacquer or whatever being used, then it is food safe. I cannot say for sure that it's true, but that's what I was told when I posed the same question on the woodturners resource website. I hope this helps you out.

  • Thank you so much for your videos. The bowl is absolutely beautiful. I have only been turning for a few months now and your videos have helped a lot. Thank you again!!

  • @newturner32 Thank you for you kind words. I hope to post more sometime but for now I'm waiting for my new shop to be built (hopefully soon). till then, I'll just have to wait :(

  • So.... final fantasy 7 music? 90% sure I'm hearing Aeris' theme there

  • @pnkr4x29anti92 Yes, you got it right, It's my son playing on the piano, I recorded it with the laptop, and put it in here. Thanks for noticing & watching my video (s).

  • Thanks Bert. I look forward to seeing some other turnings from you. God has truly blessed you.

  • @51ccso If you want to see my work, just google "Index of mbgilly" and then click on "woodturning website" to view all my work from 1st piece to last. You can also see my "lathe adventure" where I went to the US to buy my lathe. Hope you enjoy!!

  • @51ccso You can see my work from 1st piece to last just google index of mbgilly and click woodturning website.

  • Comment removed

  • I'm a new woodturner, great looking bowl! Why could you not use Huts Crystal Coat friction polish on your bowl?

  • @51ccso I'll be honest. This video was made after I finally figured out one method that worked for me. To date, I have not tried any other compounds, but I'm always open to suggestions. I have a bud that recommends trying this:

    He calls it "violin finish"

    1/3 blo + 1/3 bulls eye shellac + 1/3 denatured alcohol Use 2 coats ...buff between coats

    Says it dries almost instantly but let sit for about 30 min after a coat before buff

    If you try this an it works nice let me know please.

  • I re-read my first comment, and realized part of the comment is missing, I was saying I've used the min-wax once before and my result was poor, but probably due to my laziness after seeing your results I'm going to give it another go. My attention to detail while finishing let's me down, it's about time I put in a bit more effort... Thanks for the clip I enjoyed it.

  • @whiskeyturner Hi whiskeyturner....I can relate to your comment about attention to detail when finishing. I hated finishing, I just wanted to finish my piece and display it already, but since I've focused on taking my time and sanding & resanding to 1000 grit, I must confess it's much sweeter presenting a piece now that I know it's the best I can do and not rushing the finish, which we all should know is one of the most important steps to a nice product. Good luck, and let me know how it goes

  • Sorry. .... I was talking about the min-wax wipe on poly..... Also you spoke about putting a little detail on the bottom like a bead or groves, I like to use a small detail gouge but you have to be very careful but once your comfortable using it, you'll have crisp detail with a minimum of sanding if any at all. The skew flat on it's side also does a good job useing the long point, but the easiest tool to use is the spear point scraper, I'd like to grind it with a sharper angle to give a little

  • I to am not a fan of what I call " last cut syndrome" it has caused me a lot of heartache over the years, and I still haven't learnt yet. I'm certainly no expert but if once you have the base flat and start cutting a slight concave, you would get a better finish off the tool by cutting Howard the center. This would be cutting with supported grain and eliminate most if not all torn grain and would have also given a better cut across that bark.

    I have used that product before and my results wer

  • @whiskeyturner what product are you talking about? I don't know which one you mean. Thanks for the tips. I always welcome them.

  • Or cd scratch remover paste

  • I know it sounds crazy, but I just tried it.. Toothpaste. Arm and hammer advanced whitening. I think it has a grit around 1500... I used it as a polishing compound and my finish came out super shiny. I applied it after the 3rd coat of poly.

  • great videos. you technique is what i will use to finish a gun stock i'm doing. thank you very much.

  • I know...sometimes I worry when I sit back and re-watch the video. As I said....I don't really enjoy that part of bowl-making (removing the tenon), but I think the new Longworth chuck will put an end to that! I also cringed when I watched the part where I said "I'll just turn it a bit faster" for the first time. It was a bit too fast for the audience, but what they didn't know is I set the speed from slow BEFORE starting that part of the clip. Thanks for the praise. Hope you enjoyed it.

  • You have excellent tool control. I think a design on the bottom would have ruined that bowl, there is enough natural interest. I find a '3 point tool' is excellent for grooves and small beads.

    At 3.07min the bottom is looking great and then - "I'll just do one more pass" - "NOOOOOO!" I was screaming because those are my words of impending doom, LOL

    Good work.

    Best Wishes,

    Brendan

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