This should stop. This is a waste of resources, time, and labor. Think about it - a floor only needs to be swept and mopped. Where is all that residue going? Into the ground water. See the - great pacific garbage patch- . Surprised? I was!!!
Anyway - using gasoline, water, electricity, and labor to make a floor "shiny" is not good for any ecosystem.
" Lying is wrong - because later our children will not forgive in us - what we forgave' - Yvegeny Yevtushenko
Lots of comments on using hot water for the stripper. Does anyone actually read the labels? Hot water evaporates some of the agents in the stripper! I have yet to come across a stripper which says the hotter the better. You are to use COLD WATER. It acts as a catalyst for the stripper. Plus, when hot water hits the floor, it cools quite quickly, what good is that? Also, thinking if health, hot water will be giving off fumes, with stripper chemicals evaporating with it! Oh well-
I always use Made n USA 3m black pads, rather than cheap chinese junk. And i always tell our customers to sweep their stores a few times a day. If u can keep the dirt OFF the floor the finish, yes, it last longer.
My method is - lay folded towels at the end of a hallway/doorway with one layer of tape folded up against the towels (barrier) across the floor. I use Johnson/Diversity Stripper. I usually flood the hell out of the floor with the stripper and keep mopping it around until you know it's not slippery anymore. I then use hot water in the tank of my roto and flood the floor as well whiile stripping. I then do the baseboards and edges, suck up the water. rinse, rinse again, 5 coats, no fan.drys better
Sheep skit heads are easier to deal with, you can apply the wax right from the bottle on to the floor, instead of putting in a mop bucket. It goes on easier and there is no cleanup and also no need to put the remaining wax back into the bottle. Good video though, thankyou
Using a BOOST machine will save the hassle of using the doodle bug. Considering that stripper is dangerous, you can resort to Stride neutral cleaner in hot or warm water. The company I work for which became "green"(using chemicals that are better for the environment) no longer puts wax in a bucket like shown in this video, but rather pouring the wax from a bottle then using a flat mop.
I like to put a heater in the water and stripper to get it nice and hot. It works much better. Also, if there is a lot of built up wax on the edges, the Doodle Pad isn't going to work. You need to get down on your knees with a tool and dig in. I also flood rinse the floor with water after stripping, and then I wet mop it with neutral floor cleaner before I seal and wax it.
The finish mop can be washed out with plenty of water. If you intend on using the mop in a day or two, you can place the mop in an air-tight plastic bag and it will stay moist and ready to use.
@guanaco3208 I would rinse the mop real good and wash it by itself with no detergent. If your going to use the mop again soon, put it in a sealed trash bag. It will keep it wet for a long time. And when in doubt, get a new mop head--they are not too expensive.
@karina032588 If you do not put a few coats of sealer down, the tile will suck up the wax, and you will end up putting many coats of wax down. With the sealer, the wax is laid on top of it, and you only need approximately 4 coats. Also, the amount of wax finish depends on traffic too. When you do the edges of a floor (6 inches from the base board) only use 1 coat of sealer and 1 coat of wax. There is generally no traffic there, and when you go to restrip it, it comes off very easy.
Nice video for safety use stripping shoe covers, go to any janitorial store. Another tip don't let stripper dry and go heavy, also look at your work as you run buffer, if there is a yellow look on floor after you stripped floor, well this means there is still wax on floor, the yellow look is why you are stripping wax, the wax is dirty.
As Special Projects worker for a company that does this and more, I'd say a neutralizing agent is best. Where I work we use Dibbs powder tabs. it can be used to neutralize stripper yes but its also good for extracting salt from entry rugs and for protecting the wax from salt and chemical spills during regular care. (nice Side-by-Side by the way)
@BABALAG00SH: 32 ounces of stripping solution to one gallon of water is what mine suggests. However, you should just follow the label directions on your particular stripping solution.
It really just depends on how bad the floors are sometimes, too. I just did a building where the floors had been neglected for a long time; In this case, I barely dilluted the solution
If the stripper needs a neutralizing rinse, then an acid rinse followed by a fresh water rinse works well. If you don't have an acid rinse product, 3 fresh water rinses typically works.
Most modern strippers don't leave alkaline residues, so a simple fresh water rinse to remove chalky residue is the only rinse needed.
A time saver would be to run fresh water through an automatic floor scrubber fitted with scrub pads. A couple of passes with an autoscrubber is quick, easy & reliable.
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This should stop. This is a waste of resources, time, and labor. Think about it - a floor only needs to be swept and mopped. Where is all that residue going? Into the ground water. See the - great pacific garbage patch- . Surprised? I was!!!
Anyway - using gasoline, water, electricity, and labor to make a floor "shiny" is not good for any ecosystem.
" Lying is wrong - because later our children will not forgive in us - what we forgave' - Yvegeny Yevtushenko
SuperGscot 2 months ago
Lots of comments on using hot water for the stripper. Does anyone actually read the labels? Hot water evaporates some of the agents in the stripper! I have yet to come across a stripper which says the hotter the better. You are to use COLD WATER. It acts as a catalyst for the stripper. Plus, when hot water hits the floor, it cools quite quickly, what good is that? Also, thinking if health, hot water will be giving off fumes, with stripper chemicals evaporating with it! Oh well-
MrCla8n 3 months ago
I always use Made n USA 3m black pads, rather than cheap chinese junk. And i always tell our customers to sweep their stores a few times a day. If u can keep the dirt OFF the floor the finish, yes, it last longer.
xsandsnowx 5 months ago
My method is - lay folded towels at the end of a hallway/doorway with one layer of tape folded up against the towels (barrier) across the floor. I use Johnson/Diversity Stripper. I usually flood the hell out of the floor with the stripper and keep mopping it around until you know it's not slippery anymore. I then use hot water in the tank of my roto and flood the floor as well whiile stripping. I then do the baseboards and edges, suck up the water. rinse, rinse again, 5 coats, no fan.drys better
toughallover85 6 months ago
Sheep skit heads are easier to deal with, you can apply the wax right from the bottle on to the floor, instead of putting in a mop bucket. It goes on easier and there is no cleanup and also no need to put the remaining wax back into the bottle. Good video though, thankyou
pacificbuildingcare 6 months ago
you dont tell how to run the scrubber
derekpeters04 9 months ago
Using a BOOST machine will save the hassle of using the doodle bug. Considering that stripper is dangerous, you can resort to Stride neutral cleaner in hot or warm water. The company I work for which became "green"(using chemicals that are better for the environment) no longer puts wax in a bucket like shown in this video, but rather pouring the wax from a bottle then using a flat mop.
jguinther333 10 months ago
Comment removed
guanaco3208 10 months ago
Fantastic tutorial. Great work.
BudgetHomeandOffice 11 months ago
I have a problem with yellowing when I'm only stripping/waxing one section of the floor. Is there a way to avoid this?
Memorymode 11 months ago
I like to put a heater in the water and stripper to get it nice and hot. It works much better. Also, if there is a lot of built up wax on the edges, the Doodle Pad isn't going to work. You need to get down on your knees with a tool and dig in. I also flood rinse the floor with water after stripping, and then I wet mop it with neutral floor cleaner before I seal and wax it.
PoopClown 1 year ago
The finish mop can be washed out with plenty of water. If you intend on using the mop in a day or two, you can place the mop in an air-tight plastic bag and it will stay moist and ready to use.
GreatWesternSupply 1 year ago
Comment removed
guanaco3208 1 year ago
@guanaco3208 I would rinse the mop real good and wash it by itself with no detergent. If your going to use the mop again soon, put it in a sealed trash bag. It will keep it wet for a long time. And when in doubt, get a new mop head--they are not too expensive.
PoopClown 1 year ago
Comment removed
karina032588 1 year ago
@karina032588 If you do not put a few coats of sealer down, the tile will suck up the wax, and you will end up putting many coats of wax down. With the sealer, the wax is laid on top of it, and you only need approximately 4 coats. Also, the amount of wax finish depends on traffic too. When you do the edges of a floor (6 inches from the base board) only use 1 coat of sealer and 1 coat of wax. There is generally no traffic there, and when you go to restrip it, it comes off very easy.
PoopClown 1 year ago
Comment removed
guanaco3208 10 months ago
not wringing your mop will create air bubbles in the wax on the floor.
mkoost 1 year ago
Nice video for safety use stripping shoe covers, go to any janitorial store. Another tip don't let stripper dry and go heavy, also look at your work as you run buffer, if there is a yellow look on floor after you stripped floor, well this means there is still wax on floor, the yellow look is why you are stripping wax, the wax is dirty.
rwcobbs 1 year ago
nice video... i have a school report this afternoon My topic is how to strip and wax the floor
payagpeople 1 year ago
This video proves that everyone strips and waxes differently.
GhostSpectre 1 year ago
As Special Projects worker for a company that does this and more, I'd say a neutralizing agent is best. Where I work we use Dibbs powder tabs. it can be used to neutralize stripper yes but its also good for extracting salt from entry rugs and for protecting the wax from salt and chemical spills during regular care. (nice Side-by-Side by the way)
narutoman999999999 1 year ago
I've been told to add a cup of vinegar to rinse water to neutralize the stripper so the fresh wax will bond better.
fingersylist 1 year ago
To make the stripper work better make sure you use hot water if there's a lot of wax on the floor
performance500 1 year ago
What is the ratio for stripping solution to water?
BABALAG00SH 1 year ago
@BABALAG00SH: 32 ounces of stripping solution to one gallon of water is what mine suggests. However, you should just follow the label directions on your particular stripping solution.
It really just depends on how bad the floors are sometimes, too. I just did a building where the floors had been neglected for a long time; In this case, I barely dilluted the solution
KeepColdwithCoolidge 1 year ago
If the stripper needs a neutralizing rinse, then an acid rinse followed by a fresh water rinse works well. If you don't have an acid rinse product, 3 fresh water rinses typically works.
Most modern strippers don't leave alkaline residues, so a simple fresh water rinse to remove chalky residue is the only rinse needed.
A time saver would be to run fresh water through an automatic floor scrubber fitted with scrub pads. A couple of passes with an autoscrubber is quick, easy & reliable.
GreatWesternSupply 1 year ago
what about alkali residue?
lemshep 1 year ago
Hey jea she is hot!!!
pinchealberto 2 years ago
Thanks for the tutorial! You've got a hottie helping you out there with the dust mop :)
kevp951 2 years ago