@Ca11MeKARMA@Ca11MeKARMA@Ca11MeKARMA - Absolutely to handloading, that is all I ever put thru my rifles. In respect to the 338Lapua Mag that is the only way I could come close to affording brass
@Ca11MeKARMA - Hindsight is 20/20 and my ass has perfect vision! Thinking back, from a cost perspective, the 300WM cartridge is also very good and significantly more affordable. This rifle does also come in 300WM.I sometimes wish I had done that instead.
@YellowMetalDriver I was thinking about the 300WM one big reason is like you stated its a lot more affordable but I really do like the concept of the 338 Lapua round just because its a really accurate round
@Ca11MeKARMA - My goal at some point is to be able to shoot steel at 1 mile. The loads I put together w/ 300g SMKs produce about 5,100ft/lbs of energy & 2,766fps at muzzle. At 1 mile it still has just over twice the kinetic energy of a 40S&W w/ 165g round at point-blank range. The ballistics are excellent but in order to achieve this load I am stuck with the unbelievably high-prices Lapua brass. Once you get past the cost of brass its not really much different than other big bores.
@YellowMetalDriver Yeah i've heard the brass is probably the most expensive part from loading your own lapua but still better than going out and buying a box of 20 for around $100 but that is just for brand name rounds like Federal Ammo, Hornady, etc..
@Ca11MeKARMA What I do is piece meal once fired Lapua stamped brass when I can find it and can afford it (a next to impossible combination, lol). As long as the Lapua brass was once fired & shot thru a bolt action - which is the majority of 338LPM, its usually factory loads that folks resell. A Box of 100 Lapua stamped brass, new,. has gone up recently and is around 290bucks, can still find it rarely for 249 which is still inexcusable...
Prior to applying the JB compound i am assuming I need to thoroughly clean the barrel removing all powder & copper fowling. After that what method do you use to apply the JB compound?
@lowrider9367 - Absolutely, clean it very well and shoot iso alcohol(90% or better) and ensure its dry. I use a sacrificial bore brush and tightly wrap a cleaning patch around it. Coat the top half of the patch all the way around with the JB compound and run it out then in about a dozen times. Replace the patch, coat again with the compound. I would do this literally about 4 dozen times and on the 4th time run a clean patch thru. Alchohol clean, then oil.
@lowrider9367 - About Every 5th shooting or so I redo it but about 1/2 as much. One thing you will want to ensure you do is clean out any residual amount of compound in the breach & at the end of your barrel/into your brake. After the first dozen or so travels up and back you will start feeling it GLIDE a lot smoother, its really impressive. If you have never done it and its not a new barrel you may want to swap out the patches twice as frequently and recoat, like every 6 passes. Hope it helps.
@lowrider9367 - Then the final pass start using clean patches using a jag. Clean out the bore area and the end of barrel otherwise you wont be able to tell when you get a perfectly clean patch. This will also assist you getting everything cleaner than you would think. To clarify, I go both ways in my barrel, just ensure you exit the barrel completely before trying to pull thru else you will get your brush stuck. It will be very tight initially until the bristles compress. Keep us posted.
Before I full length sizes I only notice bolt closing issues. The bolt would shut but was definitely stiffer than what I felt it should be. Full length sizing seemed to take care of that but now I have had a couple of brass that has stayed in the chamber. Just a light tap with the cleaning rod will get the case out. No signs of high pressures just a little weird that the cases are sticking once in a while. 1 out of every 10 or so will stick. 91 gr of h1000 300gr smk no chrono yet. fps?
@lowrider9367 - I can say if you see my video, an example is the 2nd shot taken. THe last few % was a little tight, you can see it if you look close. That is what I see only maybe 1 or 2 in 10rounds after 5 to 6 reloads. I never had any issues with cases not ejecting tho. Its only that last little click as the brass starts to wear and I too always full-length resize. If I use a different brass, such as Hornady, that is another issue and its a major task to open the bolt. Even tho. Ejected fine
How long have you had your 110 ba? What load are you using to get a 2700+ velocity? Have you seen any signs of high pressure? Have you had any extractor problems? I have taken mine out as far as 1060 yd & my ballistic chart had me shooting 1 1/2 MOA high. I have not shot my latest load through my chrono. I loaded some 300gr SMK with US969 100gr. Load proved to be very consistent but i was at 2735 with 4 gr more to go before meeting max load. I ? the manual!!! Just curious what works for u
@lowrider9367 - I have had my 110BA for over a year now. I am using 92.0g of H-1000, Fed 215 primers, Lapua stamped brass trimmed 2.720 & 300g SMKs COAL of 3.680. This yields me 2,766fpt and 5,096ft/lbs of energy at 6 feet from muzzle. No overpressure signs but I am forced using Lapua headstamped brass. I will be selling like 35 or so Hornady, some new never loaded, others once fired. When using this max charge they stick/bolt lift issues galore.
@lowrider9367 - Lapua headstamp have no issues until I have gotten to my 4th+ reload. A few, not all give me a slight 5% in the end stiffness lifting. Its a sign of the casing fatiguing. I will be letting my Hornady go for 1 buck a piece which is a steal. Just in my application, max charge, I cannot use them without bolt lift problems. Two things I would try in yours, at your own risk, try my specs above which seem like a lower charge than your alrady using. Second, try JB Bore compound to
@lowrider9367 - run thru your barrel. Clean it real well and use this to perform a psuedo-lapping of the barrel. I have found that in all of my rifles doing this has product 2-5% greater velocities. I do this when they are brand new so in the 110BA I cannot tell you what it produced before vs after. It will take awhile when done right but it will also ease the cleaning like you would not believe. I do this to all my barrels, rifles & pistols too. Keep me posted on your results.
@iviaverick52@iviaverick52 - $400-500 will buy quality glass. I believe its every bit more the shooter than optic, As long as you have a good mount (also no need to spend HUNDREDS unless you are looking for removable), clear optic with good light transmission that is repeatable and holds zero that is what is needed.
@YellowMetalDriver I would agree with this on most occasions. But when considering the size of rifle we are talking about very few $500 scopes are going to hold up to the punishment this gun will deliver. Holding zero is one thin but a gun like this you are going to be shooting at many different ranges. Finding a scope that will track in that low of a price range is probably not going to happen. I just put a Nightforce NSX 5.5 x 22 on my 110 ba & just love it. Better that the Monarch i had.
@lowrider9367 - I understand the line of thinking. I also have this same model on my Armalite AR-50, has gone thru over 300rounds of 647g & 750g AMAX (mostly 750s shot) and has performed flawlessly. I can say I haven't been out past 500yards but so far there has been no issue. Granted the break on the AR50 & the 110BA are VERY effective at recoil reduction. I have been happy with and even considering replacing my Nikon Buckmaster BDC thats sitting on my 308Win with one of these. Tx 4 watching
Glad to see someone using a Hawke Tactical 30 on a high power rifle. I've been really curious about grabbing one for my 308 (the reticle and $400-ish price tag are exactly what I'm looking for. Has it stood up well to the 338 LM? Any change in zero after many rounds?
@iviaverick52 - 100% yes on the Tactical 30 Sidewinder. I have been toying with replacing my Nikon BDC on my 308 with another one of these, I like it that much. I took a big chance, was just under 500bucks with the scope and rings but have been VERY pleased. Only have just under 100 rounds thru the scope thus far but I will tell you I have PUNISHING rounds. I am pushing 300g SMKs at a velocity of 2,766fps at muzzle which is at the upper band. I will do a video review if there is interest. Thanks
@YellowMetalDriver Glad to hear it. How's the optical quality/light transmission when fully magnified? I'm sure it wouldn't be on par with a Nightforce but seeing as how I'm a recreational shooter and don't care if my paper targets are a little fuzzy when I shoot them I could put up with it at this price.
@iviaverick52@iviaverick52@iviaverick52@iviaverick52 - Clear edge to edge and even in lower light very good at high power. I viewed a Viper HD and NF, both of higher xx. In equal xx In daylight they looked nearly identical, edge given to the Vortex. During VERY low light I saw a difference. The Hawke made me smile ear to ear in daytime. I too target shoot & not in the dark, NP. I am not of the school that you have to spend at least the value of the rifle on optics.
Thx for posting, awesome rifle. Have one on order.
MalinoisChamp2010 1 month ago
@MalinoisChamp2010 Thanks for watching - congrats!
YellowMetalDriver 1 month ago
You load rounds yourself? I want to get this rifle but not sure if I want to spend a lot of money on rounds for 338 lapua
Ca11MeKARMA 1 month ago
@Ca11MeKARMA @Ca11MeKARMA @Ca11MeKARMA - Absolutely to handloading, that is all I ever put thru my rifles. In respect to the 338Lapua Mag that is the only way I could come close to affording brass
YellowMetalDriver 1 month ago in playlist Uploaded videos
@Ca11MeKARMA - Hindsight is 20/20 and my ass has perfect vision! Thinking back, from a cost perspective, the 300WM cartridge is also very good and significantly more affordable. This rifle does also come in 300WM.I sometimes wish I had done that instead.
YellowMetalDriver 1 month ago in playlist Uploaded videos
@YellowMetalDriver I was thinking about the 300WM one big reason is like you stated its a lot more affordable but I really do like the concept of the 338 Lapua round just because its a really accurate round
Ca11MeKARMA 1 month ago
@Ca11MeKARMA - My goal at some point is to be able to shoot steel at 1 mile. The loads I put together w/ 300g SMKs produce about 5,100ft/lbs of energy & 2,766fps at muzzle. At 1 mile it still has just over twice the kinetic energy of a 40S&W w/ 165g round at point-blank range. The ballistics are excellent but in order to achieve this load I am stuck with the unbelievably high-prices Lapua brass. Once you get past the cost of brass its not really much different than other big bores.
YellowMetalDriver 1 month ago
@YellowMetalDriver Yeah i've heard the brass is probably the most expensive part from loading your own lapua but still better than going out and buying a box of 20 for around $100 but that is just for brand name rounds like Federal Ammo, Hornady, etc..
Ca11MeKARMA 1 month ago
@Ca11MeKARMA What I do is piece meal once fired Lapua stamped brass when I can find it and can afford it (a next to impossible combination, lol). As long as the Lapua brass was once fired & shot thru a bolt action - which is the majority of 338LPM, its usually factory loads that folks resell. A Box of 100 Lapua stamped brass, new,. has gone up recently and is around 290bucks, can still find it rarely for 249 which is still inexcusable...
YellowMetalDriver 1 month ago
Prior to applying the JB compound i am assuming I need to thoroughly clean the barrel removing all powder & copper fowling. After that what method do you use to apply the JB compound?
lowrider9367 2 months ago
@lowrider9367 - Absolutely, clean it very well and shoot iso alcohol(90% or better) and ensure its dry. I use a sacrificial bore brush and tightly wrap a cleaning patch around it. Coat the top half of the patch all the way around with the JB compound and run it out then in about a dozen times. Replace the patch, coat again with the compound. I would do this literally about 4 dozen times and on the 4th time run a clean patch thru. Alchohol clean, then oil.
YellowMetalDriver 2 months ago
@lowrider9367 - About Every 5th shooting or so I redo it but about 1/2 as much. One thing you will want to ensure you do is clean out any residual amount of compound in the breach & at the end of your barrel/into your brake. After the first dozen or so travels up and back you will start feeling it GLIDE a lot smoother, its really impressive. If you have never done it and its not a new barrel you may want to swap out the patches twice as frequently and recoat, like every 6 passes. Hope it helps.
YellowMetalDriver 2 months ago
@lowrider9367 - Then the final pass start using clean patches using a jag. Clean out the bore area and the end of barrel otherwise you wont be able to tell when you get a perfectly clean patch. This will also assist you getting everything cleaner than you would think. To clarify, I go both ways in my barrel, just ensure you exit the barrel completely before trying to pull thru else you will get your brush stuck. It will be very tight initially until the bristles compress. Keep us posted.
YellowMetalDriver 2 months ago
Before I full length sizes I only notice bolt closing issues. The bolt would shut but was definitely stiffer than what I felt it should be. Full length sizing seemed to take care of that but now I have had a couple of brass that has stayed in the chamber. Just a light tap with the cleaning rod will get the case out. No signs of high pressures just a little weird that the cases are sticking once in a while. 1 out of every 10 or so will stick. 91 gr of h1000 300gr smk no chrono yet. fps?
lowrider9367 2 months ago
@lowrider9367 - I can say if you see my video, an example is the 2nd shot taken. THe last few % was a little tight, you can see it if you look close. That is what I see only maybe 1 or 2 in 10rounds after 5 to 6 reloads. I never had any issues with cases not ejecting tho. Its only that last little click as the brass starts to wear and I too always full-length resize. If I use a different brass, such as Hornady, that is another issue and its a major task to open the bolt. Even tho. Ejected fine
YellowMetalDriver 2 months ago
How long have you had your 110 ba? What load are you using to get a 2700+ velocity? Have you seen any signs of high pressure? Have you had any extractor problems? I have taken mine out as far as 1060 yd & my ballistic chart had me shooting 1 1/2 MOA high. I have not shot my latest load through my chrono. I loaded some 300gr SMK with US969 100gr. Load proved to be very consistent but i was at 2735 with 4 gr more to go before meeting max load. I ? the manual!!! Just curious what works for u
lowrider9367 2 months ago
@lowrider9367 - I have had my 110BA for over a year now. I am using 92.0g of H-1000, Fed 215 primers, Lapua stamped brass trimmed 2.720 & 300g SMKs COAL of 3.680. This yields me 2,766fpt and 5,096ft/lbs of energy at 6 feet from muzzle. No overpressure signs but I am forced using Lapua headstamped brass. I will be selling like 35 or so Hornady, some new never loaded, others once fired. When using this max charge they stick/bolt lift issues galore.
YellowMetalDriver 2 months ago
@lowrider9367 - Lapua headstamp have no issues until I have gotten to my 4th+ reload. A few, not all give me a slight 5% in the end stiffness lifting. Its a sign of the casing fatiguing. I will be letting my Hornady go for 1 buck a piece which is a steal. Just in my application, max charge, I cannot use them without bolt lift problems. Two things I would try in yours, at your own risk, try my specs above which seem like a lower charge than your alrady using. Second, try JB Bore compound to
YellowMetalDriver 2 months ago
@lowrider9367 - run thru your barrel. Clean it real well and use this to perform a psuedo-lapping of the barrel. I have found that in all of my rifles doing this has product 2-5% greater velocities. I do this when they are brand new so in the 110BA I cannot tell you what it produced before vs after. It will take awhile when done right but it will also ease the cleaning like you would not believe. I do this to all my barrels, rifles & pistols too. Keep me posted on your results.
YellowMetalDriver 2 months ago
Awesome. Yeah I agree I'd have a hard time putting a $1500 piece of glass on a rifle of equal or lesser value lol.
iviaverick52 5 months ago
@iviaverick52 @iviaverick52 - $400-500 will buy quality glass. I believe its every bit more the shooter than optic, As long as you have a good mount (also no need to spend HUNDREDS unless you are looking for removable), clear optic with good light transmission that is repeatable and holds zero that is what is needed.
YellowMetalDriver 5 months ago
@YellowMetalDriver I would agree with this on most occasions. But when considering the size of rifle we are talking about very few $500 scopes are going to hold up to the punishment this gun will deliver. Holding zero is one thin but a gun like this you are going to be shooting at many different ranges. Finding a scope that will track in that low of a price range is probably not going to happen. I just put a Nightforce NSX 5.5 x 22 on my 110 ba & just love it. Better that the Monarch i had.
lowrider9367 2 months ago
@lowrider9367 - I understand the line of thinking. I also have this same model on my Armalite AR-50, has gone thru over 300rounds of 647g & 750g AMAX (mostly 750s shot) and has performed flawlessly. I can say I haven't been out past 500yards but so far there has been no issue. Granted the break on the AR50 & the 110BA are VERY effective at recoil reduction. I have been happy with and even considering replacing my Nikon Buckmaster BDC thats sitting on my 308Win with one of these. Tx 4 watching
YellowMetalDriver 2 months ago
Glad to see someone using a Hawke Tactical 30 on a high power rifle. I've been really curious about grabbing one for my 308 (the reticle and $400-ish price tag are exactly what I'm looking for. Has it stood up well to the 338 LM? Any change in zero after many rounds?
iviaverick52 6 months ago
@iviaverick52 - 100% yes on the Tactical 30 Sidewinder. I have been toying with replacing my Nikon BDC on my 308 with another one of these, I like it that much. I took a big chance, was just under 500bucks with the scope and rings but have been VERY pleased. Only have just under 100 rounds thru the scope thus far but I will tell you I have PUNISHING rounds. I am pushing 300g SMKs at a velocity of 2,766fps at muzzle which is at the upper band. I will do a video review if there is interest. Thanks
YellowMetalDriver 6 months ago
@YellowMetalDriver Glad to hear it. How's the optical quality/light transmission when fully magnified? I'm sure it wouldn't be on par with a Nightforce but seeing as how I'm a recreational shooter and don't care if my paper targets are a little fuzzy when I shoot them I could put up with it at this price.
iviaverick52 6 months ago
@iviaverick52 @iviaverick52 @iviaverick52 @iviaverick52 - Clear edge to edge and even in lower light very good at high power. I viewed a Viper HD and NF, both of higher xx. In equal xx In daylight they looked nearly identical, edge given to the Vortex. During VERY low light I saw a difference. The Hawke made me smile ear to ear in daytime. I too target shoot & not in the dark, NP. I am not of the school that you have to spend at least the value of the rifle on optics.
YellowMetalDriver 6 months ago