I want to make a pattern for mens breeches with the small ballon on side of thigh, I only have a German style breeches to copy but want to make the U.S. style tight breeches, is there a paper pattern already available for this?? mens size 36inch waist and 29" Inside leg, with zips on ankle and small ballon on side beginning to extend from about 6 inches below waist to about 4-5 inches at widest point of "ballon" then tapering in about 6 inches about the knee - any tips/suggestions??
@SuchaCaligrrl Besides being a lot more work and either wrecking the original pants or requiring you to put them back together, the problem is that unless the pants are brand new, never been worn, the separate pieces will be somewhat distorted and likely to get even more distorted from taking them apart and pressing to flatten them. The seams on the garment protect the edges, especially any curves or diagonals. For complex garments it's often the only way; pants are simple, so you don't have to.
this is awesome. I am trying to find a posting on adjusting the rise of a dress pant, to change a long rise to a shorter rise and narrow the legs at the same time.
This method is quick and dirty, which is fine if you already like the way the pants you're copying fit. And if you want to make some style changes such as you describe, just start playing with a copy of the outlines you get; fold out a little horizontal length above the crotch, same place F&B, to shorten the rise, and just redraw the long leg seams from the thighs or knees down to restyle the leg width; take the same amount off each side of each piece. Make muslin to test; repeat!
You could also try just cutting away some at the waist of each piece when shortening the rise, which would catch the increased circumference as you go down from the original waist. Add pockets and waistband details after you like the new, shorter basic pattern.
Use a curve tool anytime you're marking down a final cutting or sewing line, smoothing out a hand-drawn line, or anytime you want it clean, unambiguous, smooth. I've accumulated a lot of curves over the years, but the essentials are a smaller, rounder one for armholes, necks and crotch, and a longer, flatter one for side- and in-seams. You slide the curve around until you find a section that matches what you want, then move it to match as much as you can in one go. Make the joins smooth; done!
Much quicker to learn basics of drafting a simple pair of trousers. Problem with this method is that you don't show grain marking, and construction of shaped waist bands- pocket bags, pocket facings, balance of pocket facing etc etc... you can spot a poorly made pair of trousers from half a mile by stressed/gapping pockets!
This is just a way to swipe the front, back and band shapes from basic existing pants; you'll need to supply other detail patterns yourself (or borrow them from my book). To establish the grain, fold the leg portions of your tracings exactly in half and use the fold as the grain-line. This method isn't appropriate for copying pants with a shaped band, yokes, or any other complex pieces, but can give you a good place to start if you have instructions on how to add those to a basic pattern; enjoy!
@DavidCoffin Yes I guess you're right, I was taught the old fashioned way... which means that although in the past I have had to copy items; rather than trace off, it was quicker and easier to draft from scratch. When you're dealing with such simple shapes it becomes so much easier to learn to do it properly! Once you have the basics then you can be creative and make interesting things if the need arises.There are lots of good pattern books out there, just go to your library!
it helped demystify certain quiestions i had which were so simple but so hard to answer like how to calculate the darts and the folded under from the back panel of the crotch- i feel stupid for not knowing but in reality- how else can you learn it?
OK I'll check that out thanks. Amateursewing @ gmail . com
amateursewing 1 month ago
I want to make a pattern for mens breeches with the small ballon on side of thigh, I only have a German style breeches to copy but want to make the U.S. style tight breeches, is there a paper pattern already available for this?? mens size 36inch waist and 29" Inside leg, with zips on ankle and small ballon on side beginning to extend from about 6 inches below waist to about 4-5 inches at widest point of "ballon" then tapering in about 6 inches about the knee - any tips/suggestions??
amateursewing 1 month ago
@amateursewing Three links I'd start with:
The Great War: Styles & Patterns of the 1910s book at amazon
suitability. com
cutterandtailor. com
Good hunting!
DavidCoffin 1 month ago
Lol - thank you so much I guess I am tired of wearing what other people have chosen for me - now I can really personalize
Jeipeaem 2 months ago
What if I were to take the pants apart by the seam and used that as a pattern?? How would that work.
SuchaCaligrrl 2 months ago
@SuchaCaligrrl Besides being a lot more work and either wrecking the original pants or requiring you to put them back together, the problem is that unless the pants are brand new, never been worn, the separate pieces will be somewhat distorted and likely to get even more distorted from taking them apart and pressing to flatten them. The seams on the garment protect the edges, especially any curves or diagonals. For complex garments it's often the only way; pants are simple, so you don't have to.
DavidCoffin 2 months ago
Thanks to this I now have two new par of pants. Many thanks!
4barnsmammastube 6 months ago
this is awesome. I am trying to find a posting on adjusting the rise of a dress pant, to change a long rise to a shorter rise and narrow the legs at the same time.
DCUPtoejuice 9 months ago
@DCUPtoejuice
This method is quick and dirty, which is fine if you already like the way the pants you're copying fit. And if you want to make some style changes such as you describe, just start playing with a copy of the outlines you get; fold out a little horizontal length above the crotch, same place F&B, to shorten the rise, and just redraw the long leg seams from the thighs or knees down to restyle the leg width; take the same amount off each side of each piece. Make muslin to test; repeat!
DavidCoffin 9 months ago
@DCUPtoejuice
You could also try just cutting away some at the waist of each piece when shortening the rise, which would catch the increased circumference as you go down from the original waist. Add pockets and waistband details after you like the new, shorter basic pattern.
DavidCoffin 9 months ago
@DCUPtoejuice thank you
DCUPtoejuice 9 months ago
this was exactly what i have been searching up and down youtube for. Thank you very much!!!!
LightOfRaven 9 months ago
@LightOfRaven You're quite welcome; have fun!
DavidCoffin 9 months ago
Use a curve tool anytime you're marking down a final cutting or sewing line, smoothing out a hand-drawn line, or anytime you want it clean, unambiguous, smooth. I've accumulated a lot of curves over the years, but the essentials are a smaller, rounder one for armholes, necks and crotch, and a longer, flatter one for side- and in-seams. You slide the curve around until you find a section that matches what you want, then move it to match as much as you can in one go. Make the joins smooth; done!
DavidCoffin 1 year ago
when do you know to use a curve tool? and which one?
AlovinofKeys 1 year ago
thank you! this was a wonderful video! I Ill use a lot of the the things i learned that weren't obvious before~
maylayfox 1 year ago
Much quicker to learn basics of drafting a simple pair of trousers. Problem with this method is that you don't show grain marking, and construction of shaped waist bands- pocket bags, pocket facings, balance of pocket facing etc etc... you can spot a poorly made pair of trousers from half a mile by stressed/gapping pockets!
moomoobrom 2 years ago
This is just a way to swipe the front, back and band shapes from basic existing pants; you'll need to supply other detail patterns yourself (or borrow them from my book). To establish the grain, fold the leg portions of your tracings exactly in half and use the fold as the grain-line. This method isn't appropriate for copying pants with a shaped band, yokes, or any other complex pieces, but can give you a good place to start if you have instructions on how to add those to a basic pattern; enjoy!
DavidCoffin 2 years ago
@DavidCoffin Yes I guess you're right, I was taught the old fashioned way... which means that although in the past I have had to copy items; rather than trace off, it was quicker and easier to draft from scratch. When you're dealing with such simple shapes it becomes so much easier to learn to do it properly! Once you have the basics then you can be creative and make interesting things if the need arises.There are lots of good pattern books out there, just go to your library!
moomoobrom 2 years ago
thank you SO MUCH for posting this !
it helped demystify certain quiestions i had which were so simple but so hard to answer like how to calculate the darts and the folded under from the back panel of the crotch- i feel stupid for not knowing but in reality- how else can you learn it?
thanks again!!
poosaypirate 2 years ago
Thank you very much for this!
You are excellent at explaining what might otherwise be complicated procedures.
<3
MyKalliope 2 years ago