I have an 84 GMC jimmy with a 350 engine and the the first hose to the left that connects to the fuel pump keeps breaking when i go offroading ( when i rev the engine alot) i've replaced it many times , how can i prevent it from breaking again ?
Have you heard of putting a longer bolt through one of the holes on front of motor and it holds the rod? Then installing the fuel pump and replace that bolt with the right length bolt?
Thanks a lot for the help with the install that was great...but...for some reason my truck isn't getting fuel from the pump still, I don't know what is wrong. I had fuel in the pump, but it wouldn't go up to the carburetor, I put gas into the carb. directly and the truck started nicely, sounded great, but i can't get figure out why the pump, won't..well won't pump, anything you can tell me could help, tried switching hoses, no luck, haven't tried since i was sure the pump was in right though
@Diabloshell If you have a leak in the fuel line (from the tank to the pump ) it cannot suck any fuel. Even a small leak will cause the fump to suck in too much air. If not that then...Are you sure the pin didn't shift out of place when you tightened the pump in place? And this may sound dumb but is the rod in the block at all. (speaking from experience, I have left it out once)
@MudRFunR there is no leak, but could either be a kink or the bent rod, how is it possible not to have the pin in the block? i went and bought a new fuel pump again, and it was different, more play in the plunger the fabled spring haha, thanks for the help, i'll try tonight to install it
I have an '82 chevy 350, and the rod sticks down a bit too, i was wondering if i turned the crank a bit, would the pin maybe go in a little more? also, i do not have a spring on my pump, i wonder if that makes any difference in how hard it is to hold when i try to tighten the bolts, because the plunger barely moves if i try to bend it with my hands
@Diabloshell Yes, turning the crank can make the plunger go in further but not all the way in. I've never seen a pump without a spring. Is your pump new? And yes the plunger is very hard to move. That's normal.
@MudRFunR cool man, thanks, yeah, its a brand new pump, but the old one didnt have a spring either, could be that its inside the pump instead of easily visible
This video is awesome. Very accurate info. There isnt a whole lot of info about older vehicles and its great to have someone with the experience to show us new guys how its done ;). [1975 Chevy Chevelle Malibu Restoration Project]
@redstorebums951 A mechanical pump has a diaphram insde that works on suction when the plunger moves in and out. Most often the diaphram rips and looses suction.
hey.. im replacing my engine and i put in the old push rod in and when i put in the new fuel pump it was a bit hard. how would i know if the rod is on top of the plunger? i pushed the rod as high as i could it was about half in sticking down is that normal? its a 1979 350 chevy
@1979camaro916 Yes, that would be normal. This rod rides on a fairly large lobe on the cam. If the engine happens to be turned to the high spot on the cam then the spring will feel quite tight when you tighten the pump. Hope this helps.
ok, long time chevy tech here. remove the bolt forward of the fuel pump before removing pump. install longer bolt to hold pushrod up. DO NOT TIGHTEN TOO MUCH OR WILL BEND THE ROD
hope I didn't mess something up didn't know how to get the rod up friend said "turn it over" now that I've seen this tutorial but the rod won't move.....?
@MudRFunR on the pump, the engine is a chevy 350 dropped into a '75 ventura that doesn't have a return line to the tank. The inlet is about 3/8ths inch, threaded on the inside with a fine thread and a sort of nipple on the inner part of the inlet.
@houseofburn Does your pump have 2 or 3 lines? As far as I've seen you need to have 2 lines hooked up. If your pump has a third line, you can plug the 3rd (smallest) line. What I usually do is take a short piece of hose (2-3 inches) that fits the small line and plug it with a bolt or something, put it on the pump and clamp it at both ends
we put spark plugs in it and tighten up the leak and it fired up perfect the first time it has ran in nearly ten years all is left is a oil change and filter ill post up a link to thd
yes thank you so much my dad jus bought a 77 impala and needs the fuel pump replaced and this is exactly what i thought needed to be dont but couldent figure it out thank you ima half to try that in the morning!!!
i cant remember for sure.but i think there is a bolt by the timing chain cover,,if you remove that bolt..you can put a longer one in and thread it all the way in untill it hits the fuel pump rod..this keeps it in place as you remove the old pump and install the new one ..
Hey I bought a 1983 chevy 1500, its a 350, edelbrock, and it needs a new fuel pump. You sound really profesionall and I was wondering if I have to empty the tank, or if there were any other steps
@twirlsncurls23 No need to drain the tank but I usually have something handy the plug the lines when I remove them (even a bolt), but something I forget to mention was make sure you clean off the old gasket. Hope this helps!
No one told me to do it ,i didnt have no grease an the RTV I had it for the fuel pump gasket was the next best thing i didnt let it dry all the way just enough so the rod would stay up IT JUST SO HAPPEND IT WORKED FO ME
You can also use RTV sealent on the rod. If you let it set up "dry" alittle bit, It seem to hold it up better than grease.but like DEVIOUS64SS said in his comment just do what he said !! sometimes you cant do that because stuff is in thw way.
another way to hold the pin is by using a hacksaw blade! Stick the hacksaw blade under the pin and install the fuel pump while simultaneously removing the blade.
Damm this video sure helps a lot, I was like WTF, that pin just drop, and it dont want to go back up, when I was trying to replace my fuel pump on my third gen camaro. This video helped a lot. Thanks again!
Instead of using grease to hold the rod/pin up in place;
On small blocks there is a bolt on the front of the block right by the pin, remove that bolt, put in a longer bolt (hand tight), this bolt will work as a set screw to hold the rod/pin up and in place until your done, then simply take out the long bolt and put back the original bolt.
Excellent! I would have made a terrible mistake without watching your video. I am installing a new fuel pump in my 69 Roadrunner and I saw the rod sitting there. There is NO MENTION of what that riod is for in the instructions that came with the pump! Thanks for an excellent video. I don't know how close this is to a Mopar setup, but when I get back downstairs to the garage, I'm going to pry up on the rod and see if it moves up!
@WaldieUTUBE It sure did! Anyone with a 383 or 440 mopar can use this video to help with their install. Now I can go blow the doors off Matrix in his Camaro! ;)
@mannye its a simple fuel pump installation,its not like your adding a supercharger! and IF you have a stock 383 dodge you dont need any extra.used to eat small blocks alive with a STOCK 383dodge that smoked like hell
haha, i was gunna say that that aircraft glue is gunna make getting the gaskets off a major pain! i usually use tack-a-gasket when i use those paper gaskets. i usually use RTV for most things though.
cool video, never done a mechanical fuel pump before, and now i know how easy it is.
I have an 84 GMC jimmy with a 350 engine and the the first hose to the left that connects to the fuel pump keeps breaking when i go offroading ( when i rev the engine alot) i've replaced it many times , how can i prevent it from breaking again ?
MusicLibrary 1 day ago
@MusicLibrary I will get back to you soon.
MudRFunR 23 hours ago
Have you heard of putting a longer bolt through one of the holes on front of motor and it holds the rod? Then installing the fuel pump and replace that bolt with the right length bolt?
cgrizzle3 1 month ago
@cgrizzle3 Yes, heard of it and I would have done that if the block had a bolt hole there. Not every block has it.
MudRFunR 1 month ago
fixed it, runs amazing now, thanks for the help man
Diabloshell 1 month ago
@Diabloshell Anytime, my friend! So the first new pump was no good? Good to hear that it's running!
MudRFunR 1 month ago
Thanks a lot for the help with the install that was great...but...for some reason my truck isn't getting fuel from the pump still, I don't know what is wrong. I had fuel in the pump, but it wouldn't go up to the carburetor, I put gas into the carb. directly and the truck started nicely, sounded great, but i can't get figure out why the pump, won't..well won't pump, anything you can tell me could help, tried switching hoses, no luck, haven't tried since i was sure the pump was in right though
Diabloshell 1 month ago
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Diabloshell 1 month ago
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Diabloshell 1 month ago
@Diabloshell If you have a leak in the fuel line (from the tank to the pump ) it cannot suck any fuel. Even a small leak will cause the fump to suck in too much air. If not that then...Are you sure the pin didn't shift out of place when you tightened the pump in place? And this may sound dumb but is the rod in the block at all. (speaking from experience, I have left it out once)
MudRFunR 1 month ago
@MudRFunR there is no leak, but could either be a kink or the bent rod, how is it possible not to have the pin in the block? i went and bought a new fuel pump again, and it was different, more play in the plunger the fabled spring haha, thanks for the help, i'll try tonight to install it
Diabloshell 1 month ago
I have an '82 chevy 350, and the rod sticks down a bit too, i was wondering if i turned the crank a bit, would the pin maybe go in a little more? also, i do not have a spring on my pump, i wonder if that makes any difference in how hard it is to hold when i try to tighten the bolts, because the plunger barely moves if i try to bend it with my hands
Diabloshell 1 month ago
@Diabloshell Yes, turning the crank can make the plunger go in further but not all the way in. I've never seen a pump without a spring. Is your pump new? And yes the plunger is very hard to move. That's normal.
MudRFunR 1 month ago
@MudRFunR cool man, thanks, yeah, its a brand new pump, but the old one didnt have a spring either, could be that its inside the pump instead of easily visible
Diabloshell 1 month ago
great video! im about to go and replace my pump on my 350 swapped s10 blazer. this helped alot.
FULLEFFECTCARCLUB 2 months ago
@FULLEFFECTCARCLUB Anytime! I post a new "How to" every other Thursday!
MudRFunR 2 months ago
This video is awesome. Very accurate info. There isnt a whole lot of info about older vehicles and its great to have someone with the experience to show us new guys how its done ;). [1975 Chevy Chevelle Malibu Restoration Project]
DMACustoms 2 months ago
@DMACustoms I've got more Chevy Small Block vids, check 'em out if you like!
MudRFunR 2 months ago
i have a inline 6 that has a fuel pump not working...i was wondering what happens to them that makes them stop working/
redstorebums951 3 months ago
@redstorebums951 A mechanical pump has a diaphram insde that works on suction when the plunger moves in and out. Most often the diaphram rips and looses suction.
MudRFunR 3 months ago
hey.. im replacing my engine and i put in the old push rod in and when i put in the new fuel pump it was a bit hard. how would i know if the rod is on top of the plunger? i pushed the rod as high as i could it was about half in sticking down is that normal? its a 1979 350 chevy
1979camaro916 3 months ago
@1979camaro916 Yes, that would be normal. This rod rides on a fairly large lobe on the cam. If the engine happens to be turned to the high spot on the cam then the spring will feel quite tight when you tighten the pump. Hope this helps.
MudRFunR 3 months ago
Just glad I could help!
MudRFunR 5 months ago
hey i changed out my fuel pump for the first time, not too bad. thanks this video is great and helped out all the way
65impalamanz 5 months ago
ok, long time chevy tech here. remove the bolt forward of the fuel pump before removing pump. install longer bolt to hold pushrod up. DO NOT TIGHTEN TOO MUCH OR WILL BEND THE ROD
boaterbil 5 months ago
@boaterbil I have been told this before, but this block like others I've seen don't have a bolt hole there.
MudRFunR 5 months ago
@MudRFunR - same here, no bolt hole in block.
grungeboy2 4 months ago
@grungeboy2 Thanks, I was starting to think I was the only one who seen a block like this.
MudRFunR 4 months ago
@MudRFunR - yeah, me too. i used your screw driver trick and it worked like a charm. nice easy installation.
grungeboy2 4 months ago
@grungeboy2 Good to hear it work for ya!
MudRFunR 4 months ago
hope I didn't mess something up didn't know how to get the rod up friend said "turn it over" now that I've seen this tutorial but the rod won't move.....?
dashawks 7 months ago
@dashawks Sorry, I just noticed your comment, how'd you make out with your pump?
MudRFunR 4 months ago
I am trying to block off the return line inlet. Do you have any idea how I would do this and maintain a gas proof seal?
houseofburn 8 months ago
@houseofburn Are you blocking it on the pump or the line from the tank?
MudRFunR 8 months ago
@MudRFunR on the pump, the engine is a chevy 350 dropped into a '75 ventura that doesn't have a return line to the tank. The inlet is about 3/8ths inch, threaded on the inside with a fine thread and a sort of nipple on the inner part of the inlet.
houseofburn 8 months ago
@houseofburn Does your pump have 2 or 3 lines? As far as I've seen you need to have 2 lines hooked up. If your pump has a third line, you can plug the 3rd (smallest) line. What I usually do is take a short piece of hose (2-3 inches) that fits the small line and plug it with a bolt or something, put it on the pump and clamp it at both ends
MudRFunR 8 months ago
just watched your video and it was very helpful!!! thanks so much!!!
danielhiggypiggy 8 months ago
the rod is up against the block how do i getit to go back so i can install the pump
grkstd1967 9 months ago
@grkstd1967 At 1:23 I am using bent (45 degree) needlenose pliers to lift the rod up so that I can get the screwdriver under it to hold it up.
MudRFunR 9 months ago
@MudRFunR thanks i just took the cover off and coated the rod w/grease and slid it up and put evrything back together real nice,thanks
grkstd1967 9 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
the video sorry for all the double posting man on my cell phone
juggalo450 10 months ago
we put spark plugs in it and tighten up the leak and it fired up perfect the first time it has ran in nearly ten years all is left is a oil change and filter ill post up a link to thd
juggalo450 10 months ago
@juggalo450 Good to hear that you got the Impala running. Enjoy your ride.
MudRFunR 10 months ago
@MudRFunR ok i gotcha this car has been sitting for ten years sothe rod is being hard to come up but tge pump came out easy
juggalo450 10 months ago
ok i understand@ MudRFunR
juggalo450 10 months ago
@MudRFunR so when the rod pushes up does it slip over the pump on top of the other side or does it fit below?thx's
juggalo450 10 months ago
@juggalo450 The (spring loaded) plunger from the pump slips under the rod that's inside the block.
MudRFunR 10 months ago
yes thank you so much my dad jus bought a 77 impala and needs the fuel pump replaced and this is exactly what i thought needed to be dont but couldent figure it out thank you ima half to try that in the morning!!!
juggalo450 10 months ago
@juggalo450 Let me know how it works out.
MudRFunR 10 months ago
i cant remember for sure.but i think there is a bolt by the timing chain cover,,if you remove that bolt..you can put a longer one in and thread it all the way in untill it hits the fuel pump rod..this keeps it in place as you remove the old pump and install the new one ..
390merc65 1 year ago
@390merc65 I have heard of that before but I've never seen a block that actually had a bolt hole go right through.
MudRFunR 1 year ago
Hey I bought a 1983 chevy 1500, its a 350, edelbrock, and it needs a new fuel pump. You sound really profesionall and I was wondering if I have to empty the tank, or if there were any other steps
twirlsncurls23 1 year ago
@twirlsncurls23 No need to drain the tank but I usually have something handy the plug the lines when I remove them (even a bolt), but something I forget to mention was make sure you clean off the old gasket. Hope this helps!
MudRFunR 1 year ago
thank you soo much
7starpak 1 year ago
No one told me to do it ,i didnt have no grease an the RTV I had it for the fuel pump gasket was the next best thing i didnt let it dry all the way just enough so the rod would stay up IT JUST SO HAPPEND IT WORKED FO ME
skulledmonte84 1 year ago
You can also use RTV sealent on the rod. If you let it set up "dry" alittle bit, It seem to hold it up better than grease.but like DEVIOUS64SS said in his comment just do what he said !! sometimes you cant do that because stuff is in thw way.
skulledmonte84 1 year ago
@skulledmonte84 I've never heard of this but it would work if you give the RTV time to set.
MudRFunR 1 year ago
another way to hold the pin is by using a hacksaw blade! Stick the hacksaw blade under the pin and install the fuel pump while simultaneously removing the blade.
Thegarmendia 1 year ago
@Thegarmendia Another great idea! I'm learning a lot from others comments. Thanks and Enjoy!
MudRFunR 1 year ago
Damm this video sure helps a lot, I was like WTF, that pin just drop, and it dont want to go back up, when I was trying to replace my fuel pump on my third gen camaro. This video helped a lot. Thanks again!
Matrix49G 1 year ago
so does the pin inside the block go above or below the fuel pump rod?
bubaluv2watch 1 year ago
@bubaluv2watch
The pin goes above the pump.
MudRFunR 1 year ago
5stars
Instead of using grease to hold the rod/pin up in place;
On small blocks there is a bolt on the front of the block right by the pin, remove that bolt, put in a longer bolt (hand tight), this bolt will work as a set screw to hold the rod/pin up and in place until your done, then simply take out the long bolt and put back the original bolt.
From one Chevy guy to another.
devious64ss 1 year ago
@devious64ss
Thanks! I had no idea. I'll check it out next time!
MudRFunR 1 year ago
Excellent! I would have made a terrible mistake without watching your video. I am installing a new fuel pump in my 69 Roadrunner and I saw the rod sitting there. There is NO MENTION of what that riod is for in the instructions that came with the pump! Thanks for an excellent video. I don't know how close this is to a Mopar setup, but when I get back downstairs to the garage, I'm going to pry up on the rod and see if it moves up!
mannye 1 year ago
@mannye dit it work?
WaldieUTUBE 1 year ago
@WaldieUTUBE It sure did! Anyone with a 383 or 440 mopar can use this video to help with their install. Now I can go blow the doors off Matrix in his Camaro! ;)
mannye 1 year ago
@mannye its a simple fuel pump installation,its not like your adding a supercharger! and IF you have a stock 383 dodge you dont need any extra.used to eat small blocks alive with a STOCK 383dodge that smoked like hell
symbionic1975 1 year ago
haha, i was gunna say that that aircraft glue is gunna make getting the gaskets off a major pain! i usually use tack-a-gasket when i use those paper gaskets. i usually use RTV for most things though.
cool video, never done a mechanical fuel pump before, and now i know how easy it is.
analog56x 2 years ago
Easyier than an electric pump but the trick is keeping the rod in place when installing..That can be a pain!
MudRFunR 2 years ago
yea, that looked to be the most tricky part.
luckily you have lots of room under the hood too though haha! i have a 350sbc in my 4wd s10 and changing anything is a pain...
analog56x 2 years ago
Yes, this truck has loads of space. I had a 1984 S10 which I dropped a SB 350 into. It was only 2 wheel drive but still very tight for space.
MudRFunR 2 years ago