I find what works for me and my engines is to just use them as is. Making changes with burners, lines and other things just leads to overheated engines, solder melting, and my engine wearing out prematurely. I just get pleasure seeing them operate as made.
Buy a little torch by Smith oxy/ace store bought bottles and used for jewellry with REAL med or hard silver solder. Good to over 1100f easy and sweats into seam well with borax. Use it for stirling motors turning car alternators. Strong stuff no drips LOL!
It should not have happened in the first place... Some day I will clean up and silver solder it, but right now I have just replaced the whole ugly mess with a factory fresh line
co gen. boiler that runs at 1900 degree's sending super heated steam at 700 to 800 degree's through a steam driven turbine. dangerous stuff, but its a living.
I don't know. Seems to me the alloys might combine to produce a lower temperature alloy... This is my fist foray into silver soldering/brazing, so I really don't know. I'll find out when I go to fix it, however.
If you decide to "silver solder" the connection, you will want to cut the lines back to a point that hasn't been contaminated by the lower temperature solder. I would recommend brazing in compression fittings rather than soldering the tubing directly, this will allow you to remove the super heater in the future without the need to unsolder the lines.
At this point I think I am going to remove the whole mess and install a stock line, since the superheater really seems to have little if any real practical value. It was a good experiment, though.
The brass tube leaves the steam dome on the left side, runs down under the boiler to the far end of the firebox and loops back along the same path, above the burner. It comes back up along side the boiler, past the steam dome and joins with the factory steam line.
If you meant How Well does it work.... Well... I'm not convinced that it was worth the time and effort. I still have to fix a leak in the line, however, where soft solder proved to be inadequate. Then we'll see.
I tried, but the infra thermometer must have been picking up mostly what was behind it. It's not very good at measuring anything that isn't non-reflective
Yeah... I still have to get around to silver soldering the bugger. I didn't expect such intense heat. That's Baily in the background. He's the yappy one. Our other little one was pretty quiet, unless she took offense to the TV or her reflection in a mirror...
I find what works for me and my engines is to just use them as is. Making changes with burners, lines and other things just leads to overheated engines, solder melting, and my engine wearing out prematurely. I just get pleasure seeing them operate as made.
senorkaboom 1 month ago
Nice burner!
DrFrankensteam 1 year ago
Buy a little torch by Smith oxy/ace store bought bottles and used for jewellry with REAL med or hard silver solder. Good to over 1100f easy and sweats into seam well with borax. Use it for stirling motors turning car alternators. Strong stuff no drips LOL!
STEVEDIGIBOYtv 2 years ago
Just braise it and this wont happen.
fengineer08 3 years ago
It should not have happened in the first place... Some day I will clean up and silver solder it, but right now I have just replaced the whole ugly mess with a factory fresh line
MisterOcclusion 3 years ago
would you like to see where i work! a
co gen. boiler that runs at 1900 degree's sending super heated steam at 700 to 800 degree's through a steam driven turbine. dangerous stuff, but its a living.
vanhaunagan 2 years ago
I'm told that one cannot siver solver anything that has ever been soft soldered...
jamespetts2 4 years ago
I don't know. Seems to me the alloys might combine to produce a lower temperature alloy... This is my fist foray into silver soldering/brazing, so I really don't know. I'll find out when I go to fix it, however.
MisterOcclusion 4 years ago
If you decide to "silver solder" the connection, you will want to cut the lines back to a point that hasn't been contaminated by the lower temperature solder. I would recommend brazing in compression fittings rather than soldering the tubing directly, this will allow you to remove the super heater in the future without the need to unsolder the lines.
slinkynubby 4 years ago
At this point I think I am going to remove the whole mess and install a stock line, since the superheater really seems to have little if any real practical value. It was a good experiment, though.
MisterOcclusion 4 years ago
how does your super-heater work?
jimmeh23 4 years ago
The brass tube leaves the steam dome on the left side, runs down under the boiler to the far end of the firebox and loops back along the same path, above the burner. It comes back up along side the boiler, past the steam dome and joins with the factory steam line.
If you meant How Well does it work.... Well... I'm not convinced that it was worth the time and effort. I still have to fix a leak in the line, however, where soft solder proved to be inadequate. Then we'll see.
MisterOcclusion 4 years ago
ok, i think i get that
jimmeh23 4 years ago
you should take a temprature reading of the superheater line.
randomguy9898 4 years ago
I tried, but the infra thermometer must have been picking up mostly what was behind it. It's not very good at measuring anything that isn't non-reflective
MisterOcclusion 4 years ago
wow, you got it so hot its melts sawter....now u have a new sawtering iron/steam engine!!!!
oh and you can hear your dog at the end.
randomguy9898 4 years ago
Yeah... I still have to get around to silver soldering the bugger. I didn't expect such intense heat. That's Baily in the background. He's the yappy one. Our other little one was pretty quiet, unless she took offense to the TV or her reflection in a mirror...
MisterOcclusion 4 years ago