@robinjohanssonmdh It will work on any auto headlamp. The issue will be if it is clearcoated or not. If it is not, the polish alone (as shown in many of our other videos) will be all you need to apply. Clearcoat failure will look like a thin film peeliing off. In some areas, it may be entirely gone. The only way to completely remove it is by the sanding process illustrated in this video. For more info and/or ordering, check out the Acrylic-Werks website. (.com)
@robinjohanssonmdh - What year is your BMW? The reason I ask is that some BMW come with a Nano-Film over the lamps. I have not been able to confirm if this is factory or dealer option applied. I ran into this on a 1998 BMW 740il and it really required a lot of work. If this is the case its like sanding paint off a car, so have extra 500G paper disc on hand. I used 2 3M Headlamp Sanding Kits for this vehicle. Still beats paying for new ones.
Just a heads up, start from one side of the lamp and work your way across AS the film is removed. Also, this is a "One-Time" process as the film will not re-materialize after it has been removed. Future maintanence will be very, very simple as long as a new film is not re-applied. Let us know if you have any additional questions.
Yours is THE BEST headlight restoration video on YouTube! I knew I saw a coating on my lenses, and you made everything make sense. I'm a girl, and after watching this vid, I know I can do this. My ML 430 will get a makeover this weekend :-)
@SentimentalCrab - Thanks for the nice words. If you take your time and don't get in a rush, your results will be very nice. If you have any additional questions before you get started, feel free to contact us anytime so we can clear things up (pun intended?... Yeah. Have a great day and we look forward to seeing or hearing about your results.
@joemchang Both Mercedes and Volvo have lamp patterns that really never look crystal clear, especially from the angle we took the pictures from. If you were to view these lamps after the restoration process at lamp level, you would find they are as clear as they are ever going to be.
@danielinthemix11 - Look at your headlamps closely to make sure it is a failed or peeling clearcoat. Some Merc's depending on Year, Make & Model may have the non-clearcoated lamps, therefore making your restoration job very, very easy.
@mi16t If you know how to properly use a sander, it should not be an issue. If not, get a professional or someone who does to do this for you. As long as you don't apply too much pressure or stay in one place for a long period of time, you should be fine. If you'll check the 3M site (which, for this PROCESS, we agree with) even they indicate that the wetsand is only done in the last of the 3 grits.
@waynebradby I wet sanded 320, 400, 600 , 800, 1000, 2000 then 3000 rpm buffer on a medium size pad, meguires polish with a wool pad, then, meguire's polish with a foam pad and finally meguires wax with a foam pad, no scratches, no pitting, like brand spanking new, there is more then just the clearcoat/UV coating, on modern acrylic lenses its a good idea to sand out the pitting from stone chips too as it really ruins the aesthetic appeal of the lights and distorts output.
@mi16t not doubting your process works, but you are using 7 steps of sanding and two different products vs. 3 sanding steps and 1 product, Acrylic-Werks. Also, if you are finishing with a wax, it's going to either eventually turn cloudy, yellow, or fail and require a reapplication, probably within a month or so. Also, many people are missing the point of this product...it is NOT just for headlamps. Can be used on almost any other part of an auto. See our 40+ other videos!
@acrylicwerks Also, this is why we do not use a polishing compound or wax to finish the lamps after perfecting them with a 3000G wet-sand. Why would you want to leave swirls (micro-cuts) in this finished lens? After all this work, you have left your lamps vulnerable to moisture, which will expedite the oxidation process once heat is re-introduced (Sun & Lamps). After the 3000G, finish the lamps with our water-based, abrasive free thermo-plastic finish and judge for yourself....
at how easy the future maintenence will be. The key is removing the failing clearcoat. If your vehicle is new, it most likely has a clear, apply the Acrylic-Werks now to help it maintain its clarity. Folks always find us after the fact but I highly encourage you to be pro-active and keep your new investment protected so it never has to become a chore and maintains a high resale value.
@waynebradby I own a 2001 CLK 320 with the same exact headlamp issue & I'm 100% gonna use your method! Never mind the Nay sayers (AKA HATERS), it's they're job to hunt things down that they know little or nothing about & trash them. You have obviously improved the appearance of these lenses & if folks want to follow suit fine, If Not, fine:) Great Job!
@ro63rto, our Acrylic-Werks Polish does have UV protection. If & when a clearcoat fails, no matter how many times it is re-applied, it will eventually fail again. Clearcoats tend to bind too tightly to the surface to which it is applied & unfortunately the acrylic/lexan based headlamps of today are going to expand & contract more than any other surface on your car due to sunlight (day) and heat (night), there really is no break. Under this constant stress....
the clears can eventually fracture which allows moisture to get in between the clear and lens surface. Once this happens moisture will spread between the surface like cancer. As the moisture moves the clear left behind will eventually dry and begin to flake away, much like a bad sunburn. The easiest test for this, is to polish the lens and look at your w-cloth; where the clear has flaked away, you will see a yellow or tan colored residue on your cloth.....
and where there is still some clear left, you can apply the polish and rub to your hearts content and get nothing more than a clean to a little grayish color in your rag, which means your only working the clear. A lot of times (in these situations), depending on how much clear has flaked off will determine whether I recommend a sanding job or just let mother nature finish what she started especially if the client can restore 80+% of the lamp without sanding. If sanding...
is required, then as I have mentioned before, it's a one-stop solution because clear will not regenerate on the lamps. Once the lamps are without a clearcoat, they become very simple to maintain with absolutely zero headaches or major cost. This was also demonstrated in the Nissan Headlamp (Plumbers Pants) video, which you can see, would take less than 5 minutes to complete both lamps, markers ans/or fog lamps. The key to this is never let them oxidize again...
doing the headlamps 2 to 3 times a year so you are NO longer dealing with faded lamps between applications. Why will the Acrylic-Werks Polish give you different results? We recommend that you do your faded headlamps in the direct sun so they will be fully expanded, which in turn opens all the pores in the surface. If it isn't hot enough, turn the headlamps on until the surface is very warm/ hot to the touch. You will do the lamps until your cloth NO longer has ANY....
yellow or tan residue on it. When this is done, wipe lamps with a clean and slightly damper cloth, to set the acrylic and then buff with a dry cloth. By following this method, the Acrylic-Werks Polish was applied while the surface was expanded which also allowed the acrylic into the pores. When the surface fully cools and contracts the acrylic surface (which is also more pliable) will move with it and the same goes when the surface expands.
When this method is followed, our clients for the past 16 years can attest that maintaining their headlamps as well as the overall vehicle becomes very easy to do. Remember, the acrylic polish is not a clearcoat and therefore will not suffer any expensive failures in the future. I hope this helps but if there are any additional questions, please post them.
@ro63rto Not trying to be rude, but you are missing the entire point of the product. The product will prevent yellowing/cloudiness in the future. It may require a reapplication once or so a year, but once you have taken off the FAILED clearcoat, no sanding will be required. Not sure why you'd want to reintroduce clearcoat, which on these types of lamps, is what has failed and caused the lamp to cloud up in the first place.
yeah European Head Lamps are designed to hit the road ahead of you in 1973 the US Government changed the law becuase the oil problem with energy so the legal speed limit was droped to 55mph by richard nixon and also most highway lamp pols were removed and lights on exit signs were removed mostly thats why US headlamps have to have light to hits above the road to light up the reflective pain on those signs so europe uses glass h4 bulbs USa uses plastic H2 bulbs required by the DOT
I did the process exactly as shown on the video. The car is my wife's E320. The headlights turn out like new. This was the third try, once by a shop and once by me. The two prior times on rubbing compound and plaster were used. Without sanding nothing much happened. Do you think I should polish with acrylic-werks periodically? Thanks for the best
@RonBuono It's great to finally get a response from someone who has actually used the product, rather than naysayers and doubters who have never used it or are promoting their own products. If all clearcoat (the main cause for the cloudiness) was removed, would polish only when needed, which may be once or twice a year, depending on conditions. Thank you!
@aaronpourazar Interesting that they use different headlamps in US vs. Europe. Please keep in mind that this product is not just a headlamp restorer, it can be used on almost any part of the car, boat, aircraft, RV, motorcycle, etc.
@WTHihtsM3 Yes, you might save a dollar or less by openning the hood, but then anything that flies off of the pads, especially when wet sanding, is going to get on the engine area and you'll end up having a great time cleaning that area. I'll stick to the extra tape.
@simo758...have never seen that, but there's a first time for everything. If you have actually dust INSIDE the lamp, then obviously the seal has been compromised and I'd actually expect to see condensation. I don't think there is any product on the market that will take care of this issue. Still have a hard time believing it is really inside. Even a smooth len can oxidize and get cloudy. If it really is inside, I guess you'll be visiting a dealer for a new lamp.
i didi this once it worked the high beams lamps are official like brand new but would it clear more if i did it a few more times though? or once u do it it wont clear anymore?
@AlboThuggaa Hard to say without looking at the lamps and knowing what kind of car you have. I've noticed that certain lamps (like Mercedes) don't get as crystal clear as say, a Lexus/Infiniti model. If it it's clearcoast & you've removed it all, then you should be done. If it's oxidation or cloudiness & you can still see some, you are not done. It may re-oxidize in the future, but should be an easy manual process to make clear again. How long it last depends on conditions.
@waynebradby Just a quick add-on. The Mercedes in this video has lamps that are not smooth and flat on the inside. These lamps have an intricate design that initially fooled me as well. Standing over them, I wasn't sure of the results but when I got down at eye-level and compared the 2 lamps the difference was outstanding.
OK, lets start over. The process to restore the Mercedes lamps is a different process needed to restore the Cayenne's. If there is no clearcoat or film failing just use the AW and a washcloth as demonstrated in other videos. If you are so sure PlastX will remove a peeling clearcoat or film please film and post. You may want to try this on a Cadillac CTS or BMW 8 Series. This should put this issue to rest.
I am NOT doubting the results, what I am saying is that the way you get the resuklts is over-complicated and I believe you do this over complicated process to justify the high charge to your customers. When they can get the SAME results using a bottle of PlastX that costs around $6.
Like I said I cleared my lenses with plastx and I still have majority of bottle left.
@guddano5 Bunch of nonsense, I have used PlastX myself and seen with my own eyes the results. If you want to waste time and over complicate things be my guest.
i used the 3m polish and it works fine ... just wax the lens after to protect it... takes about an hour... and i did huge 2000 Avalon headlights and still had 1 disc left from each grit...use layers of masking tape when you mask...
@dpb505....like I said, everyone has their methods and preferences. If you like sanding, go ahead and use 9 grits. Why you'd want to do this after seeing that 3 grits works just fine is a mystery. Love to see this so-called "correct method" that Mercedes released. Would be very surprised as they would much rather sell you a new headlamp for hundreds of dollars than admit that their clearcoat has failed.
Really? You are really going to spend the time with 9 GRITS of sanding? Everyone has their own methods and preferences and we respect that. But to label our method as wrong is totally ridiculous. Did you not look at the video? Did you not see where we used only 3 grits? That is all that is necessary to get off clearcoat. Maybe you enjoy sanding....good for you. The owner of this car is a neighbor and 8 months later, he is still happy with the results.
@waynebradby clearcoat is only half the story as stated above. Pitting from stonechips needs more grades of grit, simply removing the clearcoat does not bring lights back to new spec, tho it improves the appearance,stone chips are very unsightly too.
@MultiXANTIA1 absolutely correct i work for mercedes benz and i ve seen the film on every e, a , ml, and s and this is not a correct method. Mercedes benz itself released a correct method of which u stated and it works
@dpb505 All you have to do is buy some Meguiars Plast X ( $5.97- Wal Mart) and it will remove even the heaviest caked oxidation.
I removed some ugly thick shit off my Cayenne and lights look crystal clear. just use a cotton rag by hand ..no drill or BS buffer required ( I think these guys over-complicated the process) By hand with Plast X it literally took me 3 min per headlight on a cayenne (headlights were fairly large) and oxidation was heavy.
@MrRaptur3 No Idea? I have a Porsche Cayenne that I used the $5.97 Plast X on and those headlights were literally caked with oxidation. I saw the yellow on the white rag that I used.
You are just trying to make people think Plasti X doesnt work so you can have them do your ridiculous over-complicated system. It took me 3 min per headlight...I didnt even mask off anything (no need). You are doing the old school way...get educated and up to date with car care son.
@agenthelios1 So you do not confuse other viewers, understand the difference between a headlamp that has no clearcoat versus a headlamp that does. A headlamp that has no clearcoat will always leave yellow reisdue in your application cloth. Please checkout our Nissan Maxima and Volvo headlamp videos...also NO masking or machines needed, just a washcloth. Key to this method is the longterm results and after 16 years our customers think we have been spot on. Check out our other videos.
@GonzalesAcrylicWerks In regards to headlamps that have a failing clearcoat or film, sanding is the only sure method to restore the lamps clarity. The key with sanding is what is used to finish the job. Use a polishing compound or wax and you will leave micro scratches that will allow the lamps to re-oxidize much quicker. Use AW instead and the lamps will stay clear much longer. Also, sanding is a 1 time job, never to be done again so you can enjoy 2 min followups in the future.
@GonzalesAcrylicWerks No confusion. You are stuck in the old ways. Like I said I did my Cayenne, and that is the same "high end" quality as Mercedes. The Mercedes light is no different.
I think you make it sound over complicated so that way you can justify the ridiculous price you charge to your customers. Maybe your customers think you are "spot on" because they dont know any better. I am speaking from actually using PlastX myself.
@agenthelios1 You failed to read the reply clearly. If you are getting yellow residue, then you are not cleaning a headlamp that has a clearcoat. Are you the original owner? If not, it is very possible that the previous owner has already addressed this issue by having the lamps sanded prior to selling. Also, it appears by your statement that you did not look at the other videos. Note: Lexus is another Co. that doesn't use a clear or film on a variety of their headlamps.
@agenthelios1 Lets not forget, the Acrylic-Werks Polish isn't just for the headlamps, you can use it on the majority of your vehicle surfaces both inside and out. The results continue to impress customers while helping to eliminate all the extra (specialty) products. As they say...the results are the results. We have 40+ videos on YouTube and our YouTube Channel that are filmed "Real-Time" only. This keeps us from insulting the intelligence of our visitors and clients.
@GonzalesAcrylicWerks I understand what you are trying to say, however I am original owner and picked up car abiut 2 weeks aftyer it was delivered to dealership.
All I am saying is that the PlasX works and works well. My lights are crystal clear. Before they were literally caked up with oxidation. Its a Cayenne Turbo so I know the quality is on the same level as vehicles in video.
Amazing! Will this work on a BMW 5-series E39?
robinjohanssonmdh 3 days ago
@robinjohanssonmdh It will work on any auto headlamp. The issue will be if it is clearcoated or not. If it is not, the polish alone (as shown in many of our other videos) will be all you need to apply. Clearcoat failure will look like a thin film peeliing off. In some areas, it may be entirely gone. The only way to completely remove it is by the sanding process illustrated in this video. For more info and/or ordering, check out the Acrylic-Werks website. (.com)
waynebradby 2 days ago
@robinjohanssonmdh - What year is your BMW? The reason I ask is that some BMW come with a Nano-Film over the lamps. I have not been able to confirm if this is factory or dealer option applied. I ran into this on a 1998 BMW 740il and it really required a lot of work. If this is the case its like sanding paint off a car, so have extra 500G paper disc on hand. I used 2 3M Headlamp Sanding Kits for this vehicle. Still beats paying for new ones.
GonzalesAcrylicWerks 2 days ago
Just a heads up, start from one side of the lamp and work your way across AS the film is removed. Also, this is a "One-Time" process as the film will not re-materialize after it has been removed. Future maintanence will be very, very simple as long as a new film is not re-applied. Let us know if you have any additional questions.
GonzalesAcrylicWerks 2 days ago
Yours is THE BEST headlight restoration video on YouTube! I knew I saw a coating on my lenses, and you made everything make sense. I'm a girl, and after watching this vid, I know I can do this. My ML 430 will get a makeover this weekend :-)
~^~Thanks~^~
SentimentalCrab 5 days ago
@SentimentalCrab - Thanks for the nice words. If you take your time and don't get in a rush, your results will be very nice. If you have any additional questions before you get started, feel free to contact us anytime so we can clear things up (pun intended?... Yeah. Have a great day and we look forward to seeing or hearing about your results.
GonzalesAcrylicWerks 4 days ago
This has been flagged as spam show
is it better to use at Pneumatic sander as opposed to electric power drill?
neuregel 1 week ago
It still looks cloudy, what if I want it factory new?
joemchang 1 week ago
@joemchang Both Mercedes and Volvo have lamp patterns that really never look crystal clear, especially from the angle we took the pictures from. If you were to view these lamps after the restoration process at lamp level, you would find they are as clear as they are ever going to be.
waynebradby 1 week ago
same problem at my merc
danielinthemix11 2 weeks ago
@danielinthemix11 - Look at your headlamps closely to make sure it is a failed or peeling clearcoat. Some Merc's depending on Year, Make & Model may have the non-clearcoated lamps, therefore making your restoration job very, very easy.
GonzalesAcrylicWerks 4 days ago
you should wetsand!!! youre gonna burn the plastic with heat from dry sanding
mi16t 3 weeks ago
@mi16t If you know how to properly use a sander, it should not be an issue. If not, get a professional or someone who does to do this for you. As long as you don't apply too much pressure or stay in one place for a long period of time, you should be fine. If you'll check the 3M site (which, for this PROCESS, we agree with) even they indicate that the wetsand is only done in the last of the 3 grits.
waynebradby 3 weeks ago in playlist Uploaded videos
Comment removed
mi16t 3 weeks ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@waynebradby I wet sanded 320, 400, 600 , 800, 1000, 2000 then 3000 rpm buffer on a medium size pad, meguires polish with a wool pad, then, meguire's polish with a foam pad and finally meguires wax with a foam pad, no scratches, no pitting, like brand spanking new, there is more then just the clearcoat/UV coating, on modern acrylic lenses its a good idea to sand out the pitting from stone chips too as it really ruins the aesthetic appeal of the lights and distorts output.
mi16t 3 weeks ago
@mi16t Also, rotary buffer ONLY, the stupid vibrating ones are worthless.
mi16t 3 weeks ago
@mi16t something we do agree on!
acrylicwerks 3 weeks ago
@mi16t not doubting your process works, but you are using 7 steps of sanding and two different products vs. 3 sanding steps and 1 product, Acrylic-Werks. Also, if you are finishing with a wax, it's going to either eventually turn cloudy, yellow, or fail and require a reapplication, probably within a month or so. Also, many people are missing the point of this product...it is NOT just for headlamps. Can be used on almost any other part of an auto. See our 40+ other videos!
acrylicwerks 3 weeks ago
@acrylicwerks Also, this is why we do not use a polishing compound or wax to finish the lamps after perfecting them with a 3000G wet-sand. Why would you want to leave swirls (micro-cuts) in this finished lens? After all this work, you have left your lamps vulnerable to moisture, which will expedite the oxidation process once heat is re-introduced (Sun & Lamps). After the 3000G, finish the lamps with our water-based, abrasive free thermo-plastic finish and judge for yourself....
GonzalesAcrylicWerks 3 weeks ago
at how easy the future maintenence will be. The key is removing the failing clearcoat. If your vehicle is new, it most likely has a clear, apply the Acrylic-Werks now to help it maintain its clarity. Folks always find us after the fact but I highly encourage you to be pro-active and keep your new investment protected so it never has to become a chore and maintains a high resale value.
GonzalesAcrylicWerks 3 weeks ago
@waynebradby I own a 2001 CLK 320 with the same exact headlamp issue & I'm 100% gonna use your method! Never mind the Nay sayers (AKA HATERS), it's they're job to hunt things down that they know little or nothing about & trash them. You have obviously improved the appearance of these lenses & if folks want to follow suit fine, If Not, fine:) Great Job!
MrKboat 2 weeks ago
@MrKboat - Look forward to your results and if you have any questions feel free to contact us any time.
GonzalesAcrylicWerks 4 days ago
Thanks, excellent explanation.
ro63rto 4 weeks ago
@acrylicwerks
Wasn't completely aware your product had UV protection.
Isnt clearcoat failure usually down to stonechips allowing it to lift?
Had my headlights sanded etc and a UV stable clearcoat applied. Still good 2 years later.
Will now give it a go on my brothers tail lights as they are not flat so can't sand. Gone milky. Looks like this will do the job.
ro63rto 1 month ago
@ro63rto, our Acrylic-Werks Polish does have UV protection. If & when a clearcoat fails, no matter how many times it is re-applied, it will eventually fail again. Clearcoats tend to bind too tightly to the surface to which it is applied & unfortunately the acrylic/lexan based headlamps of today are going to expand & contract more than any other surface on your car due to sunlight (day) and heat (night), there really is no break. Under this constant stress....
GonzalesAcrylicWerks 4 weeks ago
the clears can eventually fracture which allows moisture to get in between the clear and lens surface. Once this happens moisture will spread between the surface like cancer. As the moisture moves the clear left behind will eventually dry and begin to flake away, much like a bad sunburn. The easiest test for this, is to polish the lens and look at your w-cloth; where the clear has flaked away, you will see a yellow or tan colored residue on your cloth.....
GonzalesAcrylicWerks 4 weeks ago
and where there is still some clear left, you can apply the polish and rub to your hearts content and get nothing more than a clean to a little grayish color in your rag, which means your only working the clear. A lot of times (in these situations), depending on how much clear has flaked off will determine whether I recommend a sanding job or just let mother nature finish what she started especially if the client can restore 80+% of the lamp without sanding. If sanding...
GonzalesAcrylicWerks 4 weeks ago
is required, then as I have mentioned before, it's a one-stop solution because clear will not regenerate on the lamps. Once the lamps are without a clearcoat, they become very simple to maintain with absolutely zero headaches or major cost. This was also demonstrated in the Nissan Headlamp (Plumbers Pants) video, which you can see, would take less than 5 minutes to complete both lamps, markers ans/or fog lamps. The key to this is never let them oxidize again...
GonzalesAcrylicWerks 4 weeks ago
doing the headlamps 2 to 3 times a year so you are NO longer dealing with faded lamps between applications. Why will the Acrylic-Werks Polish give you different results? We recommend that you do your faded headlamps in the direct sun so they will be fully expanded, which in turn opens all the pores in the surface. If it isn't hot enough, turn the headlamps on until the surface is very warm/ hot to the touch. You will do the lamps until your cloth NO longer has ANY....
GonzalesAcrylicWerks 4 weeks ago
yellow or tan residue on it. When this is done, wipe lamps with a clean and slightly damper cloth, to set the acrylic and then buff with a dry cloth. By following this method, the Acrylic-Werks Polish was applied while the surface was expanded which also allowed the acrylic into the pores. When the surface fully cools and contracts the acrylic surface (which is also more pliable) will move with it and the same goes when the surface expands.
GonzalesAcrylicWerks 4 weeks ago
When this method is followed, our clients for the past 16 years can attest that maintaining their headlamps as well as the overall vehicle becomes very easy to do. Remember, the acrylic polish is not a clearcoat and therefore will not suffer any expensive failures in the future. I hope this helps but if there are any additional questions, please post them.
GonzalesAcrylicWerks 4 weeks ago
All that work is for nothing if you don't apply a layer of UV stable clearcoat. The exposed plastic will quickly yellow under the sun.
ro63rto 1 month ago
@ro63rto Not trying to be rude, but you are missing the entire point of the product. The product will prevent yellowing/cloudiness in the future. It may require a reapplication once or so a year, but once you have taken off the FAILED clearcoat, no sanding will be required. Not sure why you'd want to reintroduce clearcoat, which on these types of lamps, is what has failed and caused the lamp to cloud up in the first place.
acrylicwerks 1 month ago
yeah European Head Lamps are designed to hit the road ahead of you in 1973 the US Government changed the law becuase the oil problem with energy so the legal speed limit was droped to 55mph by richard nixon and also most highway lamp pols were removed and lights on exit signs were removed mostly thats why US headlamps have to have light to hits above the road to light up the reflective pain on those signs so europe uses glass h4 bulbs USa uses plastic H2 bulbs required by the DOT
aaronpourazar 1 month ago
@aaronpourazar - Thanks for clearing (no pun intended) this up. Thanks for the insight on this matter.
GonzalesAcrylicWerks 1 month ago
Thanks for the best method. My wife is very happy.
RonBuono 1 month ago
@RonBuono That's very important! (keeping the wife happy!)
pbjuice 1 month ago
I did the process exactly as shown on the video. The car is my wife's E320. The headlights turn out like new. This was the third try, once by a shop and once by me. The two prior times on rubbing compound and plaster were used. Without sanding nothing much happened. Do you think I should polish with acrylic-werks periodically? Thanks for the best
RonBuono 1 month ago
@RonBuono It's great to finally get a response from someone who has actually used the product, rather than naysayers and doubters who have never used it or are promoting their own products. If all clearcoat (the main cause for the cloudiness) was removed, would polish only when needed, which may be once or twice a year, depending on conditions. Thank you!
waynebradby 1 month ago in playlist Uploaded videos
it would of been fine if the USA would of used the glass head lamps that were used in Europe
aaronpourazar 1 month ago
@aaronpourazar Interesting that they use different headlamps in US vs. Europe. Please keep in mind that this product is not just a headlamp restorer, it can be used on almost any part of the car, boat, aircraft, RV, motorcycle, etc.
waynebradby 1 month ago
@aaronpourazar In Europe are also plastic lenses
kowa1l 1 month ago
Wouldnt you save on masking tape if you open the hood?
WTHihtsM3 1 month ago
@WTHihtsM3 Yes, you might save a dollar or less by openning the hood, but then anything that flies off of the pads, especially when wet sanding, is going to get on the engine area and you'll end up having a great time cleaning that area. I'll stick to the extra tape.
waynebradby 1 month ago
@simo758...have never seen that, but there's a first time for everything. If you have actually dust INSIDE the lamp, then obviously the seal has been compromised and I'd actually expect to see condensation. I don't think there is any product on the market that will take care of this issue. Still have a hard time believing it is really inside. Even a smooth len can oxidize and get cloudy. If it really is inside, I guess you'll be visiting a dealer for a new lamp.
waynebradby 1 month ago
ive done this like a week ago, an i just found out that the dust is from INSIDE the lamp not outside, it's smooth as silk outside...
simo758 1 month ago
i didi this once it worked the high beams lamps are official like brand new but would it clear more if i did it a few more times though? or once u do it it wont clear anymore?
AlboThuggaa 1 month ago
@AlboThuggaa Hard to say without looking at the lamps and knowing what kind of car you have. I've noticed that certain lamps (like Mercedes) don't get as crystal clear as say, a Lexus/Infiniti model. If it it's clearcoast & you've removed it all, then you should be done. If it's oxidation or cloudiness & you can still see some, you are not done. It may re-oxidize in the future, but should be an easy manual process to make clear again. How long it last depends on conditions.
waynebradby 1 month ago
@waynebradby Just a quick add-on. The Mercedes in this video has lamps that are not smooth and flat on the inside. These lamps have an intricate design that initially fooled me as well. Standing over them, I wasn't sure of the results but when I got down at eye-level and compared the 2 lamps the difference was outstanding.
GonzalesAcrylicWerks 1 month ago
nice job!
Motherfuckersito 1 month ago
OK, lets start over. The process to restore the Mercedes lamps is a different process needed to restore the Cayenne's. If there is no clearcoat or film failing just use the AW and a washcloth as demonstrated in other videos. If you are so sure PlastX will remove a peeling clearcoat or film please film and post. You may want to try this on a Cadillac CTS or BMW 8 Series. This should put this issue to rest.
GonzalesAcrylicWerks 1 month ago in playlist Automotive
I am NOT doubting the results, what I am saying is that the way you get the resuklts is over-complicated and I believe you do this over complicated process to justify the high charge to your customers. When they can get the SAME results using a bottle of PlastX that costs around $6.
Like I said I cleared my lenses with plastx and I still have majority of bottle left.
agenthelios1 1 month ago
@agenthelios1
your wrong man.
plastx will NEVER give you the same results as what you saw in this video. no professional will tell you different
guddano5 1 month ago
@guddano5 Bunch of nonsense, I have used PlastX myself and seen with my own eyes the results. If you want to waste time and over complicate things be my guest.
agenthelios1 1 month ago
i used the 3m polish and it works fine ... just wax the lens after to protect it... takes about an hour... and i did huge 2000 Avalon headlights and still had 1 disc left from each grit...use layers of masking tape when you mask...
MrRaptur3 1 month ago
The older E class headlights are probably the worst I have seen. Damn near any E class I see that is older than 3 years has yellow lights.
agenthelios1 2 months ago
kurwa co ja oglądam,
polerowanie plastiku :/
jogo7733 2 months ago
@dpb505....like I said, everyone has their methods and preferences. If you like sanding, go ahead and use 9 grits. Why you'd want to do this after seeing that 3 grits works just fine is a mystery. Love to see this so-called "correct method" that Mercedes released. Would be very surprised as they would much rather sell you a new headlamp for hundreds of dollars than admit that their clearcoat has failed.
waynebradby 2 months ago
You will save tape and time if you open the hood!
ulises0318 2 months ago
@shmykis nah I'm gud, u can make a vid tho
Jx1x3 2 months ago
very thanks
MrALIOGLU 2 months ago
Where do u buy the acrylic works?
brucelee9941 3 months ago
Really? You are really going to spend the time with 9 GRITS of sanding? Everyone has their own methods and preferences and we respect that. But to label our method as wrong is totally ridiculous. Did you not look at the video? Did you not see where we used only 3 grits? That is all that is necessary to get off clearcoat. Maybe you enjoy sanding....good for you. The owner of this car is a neighbor and 8 months later, he is still happy with the results.
waynebradby 3 months ago 5
@waynebradby clearcoat is only half the story as stated above. Pitting from stonechips needs more grades of grit, simply removing the clearcoat does not bring lights back to new spec, tho it improves the appearance,stone chips are very unsightly too.
mi16t 3 weeks ago
No no no no no,wrong wrong,p500,p600,p800,p1000,p1200,p1500,p2000,p2500,p3000,3M polish,
MultiXANTIA1 3 months ago
@MultiXANTIA1 absolutely correct i work for mercedes benz and i ve seen the film on every e, a , ml, and s and this is not a correct method. Mercedes benz itself released a correct method of which u stated and it works
dpb505 2 months ago
@dpb505 All you have to do is buy some Meguiars Plast X ( $5.97- Wal Mart) and it will remove even the heaviest caked oxidation.
I removed some ugly thick shit off my Cayenne and lights look crystal clear. just use a cotton rag by hand ..no drill or BS buffer required ( I think these guys over-complicated the process) By hand with Plast X it literally took me 3 min per headlight on a cayenne (headlights were fairly large) and oxidation was heavy.
agenthelios1 2 months ago
@agenthelios1 you have no idea what your talking about ... lol ...
MrRaptur3 1 month ago
@MrRaptur3 No Idea? I have a Porsche Cayenne that I used the $5.97 Plast X on and those headlights were literally caked with oxidation. I saw the yellow on the white rag that I used.
You are just trying to make people think Plasti X doesnt work so you can have them do your ridiculous over-complicated system. It took me 3 min per headlight...I didnt even mask off anything (no need). You are doing the old school way...get educated and up to date with car care son.
agenthelios1 1 month ago
@agenthelios1 So you do not confuse other viewers, understand the difference between a headlamp that has no clearcoat versus a headlamp that does. A headlamp that has no clearcoat will always leave yellow reisdue in your application cloth. Please checkout our Nissan Maxima and Volvo headlamp videos...also NO masking or machines needed, just a washcloth. Key to this method is the longterm results and after 16 years our customers think we have been spot on. Check out our other videos.
GonzalesAcrylicWerks 1 month ago
@GonzalesAcrylicWerks In regards to headlamps that have a failing clearcoat or film, sanding is the only sure method to restore the lamps clarity. The key with sanding is what is used to finish the job. Use a polishing compound or wax and you will leave micro scratches that will allow the lamps to re-oxidize much quicker. Use AW instead and the lamps will stay clear much longer. Also, sanding is a 1 time job, never to be done again so you can enjoy 2 min followups in the future.
GonzalesAcrylicWerks 1 month ago
@GonzalesAcrylicWerks No confusion. You are stuck in the old ways. Like I said I did my Cayenne, and that is the same "high end" quality as Mercedes. The Mercedes light is no different.
I think you make it sound over complicated so that way you can justify the ridiculous price you charge to your customers. Maybe your customers think you are "spot on" because they dont know any better. I am speaking from actually using PlastX myself.
agenthelios1 1 month ago
@agenthelios1 You failed to read the reply clearly. If you are getting yellow residue, then you are not cleaning a headlamp that has a clearcoat. Are you the original owner? If not, it is very possible that the previous owner has already addressed this issue by having the lamps sanded prior to selling. Also, it appears by your statement that you did not look at the other videos. Note: Lexus is another Co. that doesn't use a clear or film on a variety of their headlamps.
GonzalesAcrylicWerks 1 month ago
@agenthelios1 Lets not forget, the Acrylic-Werks Polish isn't just for the headlamps, you can use it on the majority of your vehicle surfaces both inside and out. The results continue to impress customers while helping to eliminate all the extra (specialty) products. As they say...the results are the results. We have 40+ videos on YouTube and our YouTube Channel that are filmed "Real-Time" only. This keeps us from insulting the intelligence of our visitors and clients.
GonzalesAcrylicWerks 1 month ago
@GonzalesAcrylicWerks I understand what you are trying to say, however I am original owner and picked up car abiut 2 weeks aftyer it was delivered to dealership.
All I am saying is that the PlasX works and works well. My lights are crystal clear. Before they were literally caked up with oxidation. Its a Cayenne Turbo so I know the quality is on the same level as vehicles in video.
agenthelios1 1 month ago
THANK you very very much for this explanation .. great effort :)
what is the name of the substance u used at the last step???
thax again
ZOZOVIP 3 months ago
wow, look like new
bosanac191 3 months ago
I could have done both headlights in half the time and get better results...anyways, cool video for the noobs
Jx1x3 4 months ago
@Jx1x3 instead of talking you could make a video and help other's.
shmykis 2 months ago
Congratulations. Excellent guide. Thanks on behalf of all home mechanics.
drupi77 5 months ago
Automotive paint tape from an auto supply store. Would imagine that regular paint tape from Home Depot or Lowes would work as well.
waynebradby 6 months ago
What kind of tape are you using? Where do you get it?
crystalclearlights 6 months ago