rock climbing training on roofs

[DCassidy42]

Movement is dependant on strength, flexibility, coordination height and weight. Some people might find it easier to campus on huge jugs(bigger burly people) rather than engaging your core and finding the foot holds (which may prove to be easier for those tall thin types). At the end of the day there is no "correct" way to pull a roof. Watch sharma do the same route as ondra, totally different style.

[Thethe0ryof]

I thought there was no rules , or mistakes in rock climbing -___- does it really matter, u got up the wall , didn't you

[ManoAdventure]

16 people don't know how to rock climb.

[riedstep]

That first heel hook did nothing. The 2nd one was good though.

[mindroverjpc]

I don't know why so many people seem to be against learning technique, but I found this very helpful.

[SN0WMASS]

they have obviously done this route 100 times judging by the way the first guy no look leaps right to the hold. Not impressed to see a good climber climb a easy route. Go do something harder that will challenge yourself instead of just trying to look cool on a 5.9 because your not.

[deadpassive]

@SN0WMASS It's an educational video for beginners. You do realise that, right? They're not TRYING to impress you.

[edwards12131415]

you're fucking boring. its ironic how rock climbing is meant to be a form of release from the constraints of every day life, yet you still manage to apply constraints. its meant to be fun, who gives a shit about techniques and so called 'rules'. no respect man, no respect at all

[deadpassive]

@edwards12131415 No. Improving your technique allows to go on and climb better and more interesting things. It doesn't constrain you at all, in fact it frees you.

If you're happy climbing badly on easy stuff, that's fine. I would rather something genuinely challenging.

[sarvelaj]

lol i love that reach haha looks like fun, im not too close to being at that level yet haha

[MrUnicycle123]

Looks like the way i climb from 5a-6c is wrong then! haha

Fine once you start on 7s you need technique but up to then it is quite easy to do do it wrong but fun!!!

[akaash431]

i can climb as well and i am 11 years old

[ryanhall19951]

is that fuck you cli9mbing you have a gay voice

[THEBIRDMAN9412]

I fucking hate his voice...

[123virginboy]

You guys are great

[badsalad313]

I'm not gonna lie, that looks terrifying :S

[doctzz]

This was stolen from a very good training video......if you like this clip go out and buy the video...well worth the money,,,,Masterclass DVD Part 1 with Niel Gresham

[FunnyFunTimes]

The first way looked much easier and funner and cooler! haha

[crowdsurfers]

cutting loose is so much fun !! yeah technique is useful but fun is vital !!!

[Pokealeaf]

@cerca18 Yeah thats all good and well but its more of a fact that when someone who has that much experience in climbing it pays to take advice from them.

[ltdex400guitarist]

the "wrong" way is better upper body workout :)

[TheATLAdventure]

she ALMOST missed the hold on the lip

[TastyCake001]

wrong way looks more fun..mind you I'm a long way off that standard!

[t1bb3tt]

Gabby can do more than correct my errors. :)

[FlashingFountain]

Fuck "proper climbing". If i want to follow instructions i'll go build a fucking IKEA couch. Shut the fuck up and watch me climb like a bad ass

[AusMetal33]

he was one of the most horrible accents i've ever heard

[RobandRicky21]

fuck that when people are watching i'll climb using no feet!

[fredstime]

I think both ways deserve merit. Sometimes, not following the rules opens the door to new ways of thinking.

[cerca18]

think you have mistaken your self for an authority on climbing, for me to be told how to climb to live within the restrictions of some one elses ideas of how it should be done destroys the whole point of climbing. You sound like you've joined the community to be a part of a system this why i hate climbing for grades on designated routes because it allows people like your self to go mmm he/she SHOULD of done it like this. people who set routes can't physically do a route for all shapes and size

[Pokealeaf]

@cerca18 If its the guy climbing/commentating in the video that you're talking 'to', then sorry but he is an authority of sorts on climbing. Its Neil Gresham.

[cerca18]

@Pokealeaf no you missing my point, I climb for myself, not to say I don't appreciate the comunity surrounding it but it is at the end of the day you and the wall. No one gets of a climb and goes phew i hope Neil Grisham would approve of that technique . . . not if they genuinely climb to climb.

[requshei]

I climb like the first example when I'm indoors for strength training but when I'm outdoors I get very cautious so I try to be as techinical as possible. Plus I'm not that tall so moving my body around with just my arms isn't as hard as for people over 6ft. Like many climbers say, "there are infinite number of climbing styles as there are of people" ^^

[JamesCrawford121]

Shes a fantastic climber!

[homefriguy]

for some reason lead feels better than top rope. to me anyways

[Senorbarnum]

To each is own. It looks to me that in the first example the fella moves through the roof fairly quickly, where as the chick in the second clip is moving more slowly and using more of her lock off strength trying to execute "proper" technicque. On longer roofs for example, the martini roof in hueco, heel hooks ,toe hooks, beta/technique is crucial for conserving strength. This roof was a bad example to be an example.

[funnyjuggledude]

lead looks really scary

[pdrums777]

well personally i think the heel hook looks cooler than the first..

[Scarface9462]

Dude...there is no "right" or "wrong" way....we have norms for everything in our society...and definitions for success that pressure us...don't bring it into rock climbing...you should be free to try to do something a little more exciting and challenging..

[AntiHero12109]

so the first way was the "fun" way and the second was the "proper" way.......FUN WAY!!!!!

[wuckers]

Technique for the weak

[bubaks2]

Its is 'wrong' because it is just more tiring to do it that way right? or is it more dangerous?

[SamuiHakai]

@bubaks2 its wrong because the first way is just muscling it, not using proper technique. Proper technique will allow you to climb a level or 2 higher than what you can without proper technique.

[pppaulo1]

@bubaks2 It has more to do with getting through the obstacle using minimum effort. This means when faced with the toughest climbs, you'll surpass them. There is no right way of doing it though, but even people who thing climb using strength do use technique when they face the limit. It's a combination.

[mrvolax]

gotta be fkin nuts to do that shit :P

[Phobzi]

lol the first way looked way more bad ass

[davervr6]

in most cases neil is right. However sometimes u need to be quick and dynamic to beat getting pumped out. Also when being dynamic you get more adrenaline which helps you push through uber hard moves. Everyone has different body types and different techniques that work for them. Dave Graham is techy and Chris Sharma is dynamic, but both climb around the same grade.

[ncoppen1]

climbers are too struck on slow boring sensible climbing, what happens when you are looking a huge dynamic movement on a real face with smears for foot holds and you haven't got the power- look at chris sharma- he climbs on tiny hold with no feet all the time- as you say a time and a place and needs must- THERE ARE NO RULES thats why climbing is so fun!!

[mcblah]

while you're right about needing power, it's much more crucial to learn to save your energy and complete most sections without going to dynos and power moves. If you don't climb smart through most of the route, you won't have any power at the crux when you need it.

You're absolutely right though, no rules.

Cheers

[SamuiHakai]

@ncoppen1 for sure you need strength, but you should also use proper technique, which will save you alot of strength. Its a personal bad tendency of mine to climb using strength over technique, as there are different types of strength, sometimes you need to train for other strengths, but technique will forever be useful.

[thejanitor99]

Although you're right, you sound rediculous.

[martinmedeski]

climbing makes the female body look amazing

[truescrummie9]

big loophole in his whole teaching philosophy... what if there is no arette? if there was no arette there she wouldn't have spotted that heel hook and had perfect body tension. her feet would've cut unless there was a hold there. plus any idiot would've spotted that "crucial heel hook" is that how you spell arette?

[sydneydoc]

I agree ... and no mention of flagging under the roof, or drop knees

[judge0610]

Different strokes for Different folks..

[realcampusman]

@judge0610

yea sometimes it uses less energy in the long run just to power through a few easy moves really fast vs trying to waste your time with making it look good

[Twoplusfouris7]

I reckon his way was way funner and looked less hard.

[ceebo100]

on a 1 time climb do all the pul ups you want.. bet every peny in my bank account that if they ran that rout over and over he would melt long befor her.

[ceebo100]

And btw your totally wrong about static and dynam. Static spreads the load and you will climb longer if you can get away with using it all the time. Unless your in some kind of race with friends then i dont see why you would want to dyno everything. Yrah you may do 2 routes in the time she done 1 but i bet she ends up doing double you do over a period of time

[rossdabossda2k6]

@Twoplusfouris7 funner: maybe  Less difficult: definitely not!

[davervr6]

If u do it static your taking more time and using more energy because your using more muscle groups. If you do it dynamic its faster and your using specific muscle groups. Being dynamic is also really committing and get the adrenalin flowing which will help u to pull through the next moves. I think theres a time and place for both approaches.

[gotdavid14]

some people are saying theyd do it out doors

but i ONLY climb out doors and that never

happens9/10 all u get is a undercling

or u just have to reach on top of the roof.

so this video is strickly for indoor

climbing purposes

[bordn21]

I agree with Tiki1597, but would like to add that the stretch clip is not "wrong". That may be the only option due to what good holds you have. There is no reason why you cant make that type of clip and then find the toe/heel hooks she did.

[imgonnahurtugood]

does anyone know where that climbing wall is? it just looks interesting.

[magnetite123456789]

I think its the outdoor section of the Westway climbing centre in London

[micky159micky]

neil gresham will never look cool

[roddyheat]

yeah the 'wrong' way looked way more fun. Don't you ever enjoy just cutting free sometimes on roofs? I'm all for technique but its fun to mix it up.

[JarredCleerdin]

@roddyheat  Climbing is freedom. No right or wrong way to do anything. Its what you make it.

[OTTONETTISILVANA]

@roddyheat

[flipzeyez]

more of these please!

[EdMajinLee199999]

good advice in this situation, but sometimes i like to have a little fun at the price of the little extra bit of wasted energy, just think of it as a way of strength training, but i would totally agree if it was a real rock... which it isn't

[Tiki1597]

well every roof is different so u cant everytime do it like the girl - and also rock is different that the climbing wall (on wall its much more about strength + u have 99% sureness on your feet - i mean on rock u sometimes have to stand on nearly nothing but still stand + u dont know where are the catches)

i hope u understand what i've just said

[stonereflex]

not to mention you have to get creative because there is nothing saying whats a hold whats not, and you cant always easily spot them.

[lopside0]

I've climbed problems where my body type made it easier to campus moves than to use the available feet, but this advice will be solid 9 times out of 10. Especially the bit about clipping. If you are regularly campusing moves for reasons other than training, then you're not climbing as well as you could.

[thearmchairexpert]

why would you "train" for rock climbing? whats there to train? your just climbing some rocks.

[mister9a]

That's like me saying "Why train for football? All you do is throw a ball and run around a field." Climbing demands refined skill and technique if you want to be good.

[ShinyRaw]

now she is sexy!! love women with skills

[MaxieNator]

thanks!!1 im working on it

[Givicencio]

She didn't even used her heel

[campusmang]

wtf!

[somegi9]

nice. very useful also

[ClimbSmartDotCom]

Excellent video! Thanks for sharing! ClimbSmart