Easy to fix the movement issue. Fasten down both side rails with clamps (notice you only had the fronts clamped). Make some thin wedges and place on both sides of the workpiece. Voila, it will be stable.
go down to walmart , they have this shelf liner its some sort of foam it comes in rolls . when you put it down on a clean surface and put your workpiece on it it will not move from side to side but your workpiece will lift right off of it
@MegaBenglish - I use that stuff for some things, but as there's no direct coupling in this jig between the rails/router and the workpiece, there really needs to be a solid surface to keep them registered with each other. This is a flattening operation. The piece would rock up and down on the sponge mat by some fraction of its ~1/8" thickness, especially when hitting the edges, creating a slightly rounded top surface. This would make things like running it through my drum sander not work well.
The bit is a very cheap 1/8" flat end cutter (1 cutting knife down one side of a very thin cylinder) with a 1/4" shaft in the router collet. It's from a cheap set of Ryobi bits that came in a little wall case. Nothing special at all. For work later on a much heavier slab (1" thick cross section of a 13" dia. modesto ash stump), I moved up to something like a 3/8" flat bit. The heavier, the larger the bit I can use without having to hold the piece down at all. Note: light passes, w/ a face guard.
Easy to fix the movement issue. Fasten down both side rails with clamps (notice you only had the fronts clamped). Make some thin wedges and place on both sides of the workpiece. Voila, it will be stable.
egastap 7 months ago
go down to walmart , they have this shelf liner its some sort of foam it comes in rolls . when you put it down on a clean surface and put your workpiece on it it will not move from side to side but your workpiece will lift right off of it
MegaBenglish 11 months ago
@MegaBenglish - I use that stuff for some things, but as there's no direct coupling in this jig between the rails/router and the workpiece, there really needs to be a solid surface to keep them registered with each other. This is a flattening operation. The piece would rock up and down on the sponge mat by some fraction of its ~1/8" thickness, especially when hitting the edges, creating a slightly rounded top surface. This would make things like running it through my drum sander not work well.
gfixler 11 months ago
The bit is a very cheap 1/8" flat end cutter (1 cutting knife down one side of a very thin cylinder) with a 1/4" shaft in the router collet. It's from a cheap set of Ryobi bits that came in a little wall case. Nothing special at all. For work later on a much heavier slab (1" thick cross section of a 13" dia. modesto ash stump), I moved up to something like a 3/8" flat bit. The heavier, the larger the bit I can use without having to hold the piece down at all. Note: light passes, w/ a face guard.
gfixler 2 years ago
What size / style of router bit did you use ? What speed did you have the router set to ?
LarsMith217 2 years ago