Again, thanks for posting this video. I got my 1944 Lithgow today and I took it apart and put it back together again, step by step, as I followed your video. Gave it a good clean while it was apart. If I was back in Australia I'd get you a case of beer as payment.
Thanks for pointing out the issue with removing the butt stock without the fore stock removed. I have a sporterized No1 Mark 3, and the stock was loose. I followed your instructions and sure enough I was able to tighten the stock bolt 3/4 turn to tighten and it resolved the problem as well as I cleaned up the underside of the barrel, receiver, and trigger assembly and the forestock. My Mk 3 is now ready for shooting. Any other videos on this or any other fine rifles would be appreciated!
Thanks for posting and sharing this valuable information on how to disassemble the SMLE. I really enjoyed it and learned something new. I would like to see the video where you disassemble the butt stock or addressing a loose butt stock issues would be nice as well.
We all know that we Americans modeled our Springfield after the Mauser,....with the exeption of the caliber and other details, it was for the most part, a copy (hey, Germany makes great guns). But from my point of view, we probably would've been better off coppying the Lee Enfield rifle (in terms of the bolt design, and ammo capacity) . Don't get me wrong, the Mauser is a fine rifle, but from what I've heard, I would've chosen the Lee Enfield. Just a thought... Which do you think is better?
@aabceacba I don't have an actual time period correct answer for you, but I thought of a few reasons. An external magazine is exposed to damage during the battlefield, 1 more thing to go wrong. Also, why make it detatchable if you load by stripper clip? The LE action is weaker than that of the Mauser, .30-06 is loaded to higher pressures. The Mauser 98 action/bolt is also much safer than a LE. Also the .30-06 cartridge is much longer than the .303 and would require a redesign of the action.
@aabceacba Also, the Mauser 98 is a newer system than the LE, and everyone wants the newest. The Mauser 98 is mechanically more reliable. With the dawn of MGs and mechanized warfare, the rifle plays less of a role. The Mauser takes a bit less time and money (I think) to manufacture. Also, only the British Empire used the LE. And the Brits were recently bloodied in South Africa by the Boers who were armed with Mausers. Also, most other countries had adopted Mausers and were very satisfied.
@charliejamespidgeon Take a look at part one - draw the bold all the way to the rear, then turn the bolt head to the left, away from the rail. It should just click off.
do the Ishapore 2A1's have two piece stocks like this to? if so then doesn't that mean you can't fit a one piece stock on it? theirs synthetic ATI stocks that are just one piece stocks for No1 MkIII .303 .308 so i figured it would fit mine. if you have an Ishapore 2A1 would you plz do a disassembly for it? i see alot of ppl with 2A1's that are as confused as me.
Thank you for this video, mate. I just used it to complete some work on my 1922 Lithgow. As the man said, how wonderfully complex...er...I mean British..... I loved it. (Just kidding 'bout the british...I still have a 41 year old Perkins diesel that runs forever as well!. Again, thanks,...it help me as I tightened up the sight protector ears on the rear....
I wonder if you might be able to help me. I have a B.A.S.Co, Sht. L.E. 1917. I pulled the bolt all the way out, which I've done several times previously for cleaning. Putting the bolt back it will go forward but will not lock. All the vids I've watched seem to have a lever to push but my rifle doesn't seem to have one. Any ideas what may be wrong?
Great videos man. Thanks for posting so many, and on such a variety of enfields. I'm hoping to start my own collection here in Canada and these are very helpful in my research on what I want to get (or rather what I want to get first). Keep it up mate, cheers.
Great video, I had to go to several hardware stores before I could find a screwdriver long enough to reach the butt stock bolt. Also, disassembling the magazine release/sear assembly is a nightmare, the leaf spring is so hard to place and compress correctly.
I have a No 4 Mk1 but here in Canada, after the war, they all sporterized the No 1 Mk3 and No 4 Mk1 for civilian use. (Removed the front wood part, leaving the barrel naked) and im working on puting back the original parts. Thanks for this vid, will be useful.
Is it possible to have the Fore-Stock' and 'Front-Hand-Guard' end at or immediately after the 'Outer-Band' (exposing more of the forward part of the barrel) ???
Picked up a Lithgow 1918, imported to us by JJCO, who made a bunch of parts guns, (many of which the recoil shields are missing) mine is all matching. Just to make sure took it apart, Shields are in place. Found a hair line crack near them so used DAP Carpenters glue to seal it up.
Thanks.
P.S. mine hasC.M.F. over 3.M.D
Am I correct that
3.M.D is 3rd Mil, Dist (Victoria/Melbourne)
is C.M.F Citizens Military Forces
1/19 is also on stock any guess as to its meaning ?
@Bidimus1 1/19 is month/year manufacture. Likely that despite parts (receiver, barrel etc. being labelled 1918) it was not assembled till January 1919. May have other markings on butt, such as a Lithgow Shield and Model number, (I note mine are faint). CMF and 3MD markings are post WW2 of course.
Not different at all with respect to disassembly. I use Circa 1850 furniture stripper to remove all of the layers of gunk and stain...this product seems to work quite well on gun stocks. After that I tend to use a damp towel and a clothes iron on high/steam to raise the grain and get rid of any dents. I saw on a website that
running the wood through a dishwasher can really clean and raise the grain but I haven't tried this. There's a lot of info for milsurp collectors online. Have fun!
This will really help me since my grandfather will probably give me his old Lee-Enfield he bought after WWII. It's barely been fired at all and has been sitting in a gun cabinet for God knows how long. And I'll probably have to pay a crapload of money to get it restored. Bolt-actions FTW!!!
Thanks. Your video gave me the courage to strip a "Jungle Carbine". It would be a great rifle but the flash hider and bayonet lug were hacked off, the rear sight removed, and a Weaver scope bridge put on. As it is the barrel length is now barely legal in Canada and I'm sure it'll kick like a mule, but the bore is good and it has harvested a number of deer. It was cool to see what was under the wood since it hasn't seen the light of day in years. You make me like enfields!
I dont remember exactly, but I think the frontsight is integral to the barrel, the rear sight is attached with a screw, but i would think it unadvisable to remove unless you had a problem or a new/better sight.
Very well done! I was wondering why the trigger pull on my "Sporterized" '43 (Longbranch) No.4 Mk 1* was so sloppy, and after watching your presentations, I found that the kingscrew was only finger tight. (as well, the buttstock was loose). My groupings have improved exponentially, thanks to you! I am looking to restore my No 4 to "era orginal" condition, and now I know what components I am looking for. Kudos to you mate!!! Awesome collection of rifles you have!
Up here in Washington, they sell some Lee Enfield rifles. Although, I do not know what model they sell, because the gun dealer doesnt know a thing about their weapons and they dont let you check the firearms. But, they run for around 80 which is what you paid for a couple of your Lee's. Would you recommand getting one for the price?
When I got my Enfield at a Bob Pope gunshow, it cost $220, bargained cuz my dad had bought from the guy before and is friends with him. Most if not all Enfields I've seen run around that price or higher.
That sounds about right, but the price also depends on the condition. I found a 1916 rifle for $200, the action was still in working condition, but the furniture was ruined.
I also wanted to add, awsome jacket. 5th USAAF!
PimpLenin 4 weeks ago
Again, thanks for posting this video. I got my 1944 Lithgow today and I took it apart and put it back together again, step by step, as I followed your video. Gave it a good clean while it was apart. If I was back in Australia I'd get you a case of beer as payment.
PimpLenin 4 weeks ago
Thanks for pointing out the issue with removing the butt stock without the fore stock removed. I have a sporterized No1 Mark 3, and the stock was loose. I followed your instructions and sure enough I was able to tighten the stock bolt 3/4 turn to tighten and it resolved the problem as well as I cleaned up the underside of the barrel, receiver, and trigger assembly and the forestock. My Mk 3 is now ready for shooting. Any other videos on this or any other fine rifles would be appreciated!
ratagris21 4 months ago
Thanks for posting and sharing this valuable information on how to disassemble the SMLE. I really enjoyed it and learned something new. I would like to see the video where you disassemble the butt stock or addressing a loose butt stock issues would be nice as well.
ratagris21 4 months ago
We all know that we Americans modeled our Springfield after the Mauser,....with the exeption of the caliber and other details, it was for the most part, a copy (hey, Germany makes great guns). But from my point of view, we probably would've been better off coppying the Lee Enfield rifle (in terms of the bolt design, and ammo capacity) . Don't get me wrong, the Mauser is a fine rifle, but from what I've heard, I would've chosen the Lee Enfield. Just a thought... Which do you think is better?
aabceacba 6 months ago
@aabceacba I don't have an actual time period correct answer for you, but I thought of a few reasons. An external magazine is exposed to damage during the battlefield, 1 more thing to go wrong. Also, why make it detatchable if you load by stripper clip? The LE action is weaker than that of the Mauser, .30-06 is loaded to higher pressures. The Mauser 98 action/bolt is also much safer than a LE. Also the .30-06 cartridge is much longer than the .303 and would require a redesign of the action.
something01992 6 months ago
@aabceacba Also, the Mauser 98 is a newer system than the LE, and everyone wants the newest. The Mauser 98 is mechanically more reliable. With the dawn of MGs and mechanized warfare, the rifle plays less of a role. The Mauser takes a bit less time and money (I think) to manufacture. Also, only the British Empire used the LE. And the Brits were recently bloodied in South Africa by the Boers who were armed with Mausers. Also, most other countries had adopted Mausers and were very satisfied.
something01992 6 months ago
@something01992 Very interesting, thanks for the info.
aabceacba 6 months ago
how do you take off the bolt on a mark 1 No 3 lee enfield as i need to clean the rifie
charliejamespidgeon 8 months ago
@charliejamespidgeon Take a look at part one - draw the bold all the way to the rear, then turn the bolt head to the left, away from the rail. It should just click off.
aikalim87 7 months ago
do the Ishapore 2A1's have two piece stocks like this to? if so then doesn't that mean you can't fit a one piece stock on it? theirs synthetic ATI stocks that are just one piece stocks for No1 MkIII .303 .308 so i figured it would fit mine. if you have an Ishapore 2A1 would you plz do a disassembly for it? i see alot of ppl with 2A1's that are as confused as me.
Kelthuzad126 10 months ago
cool beanz
MrToadland1 11 months ago
Thank you for this video, mate. I just used it to complete some work on my 1922 Lithgow. As the man said, how wonderfully complex...er...I mean British..... I loved it. (Just kidding 'bout the british...I still have a 41 year old Perkins diesel that runs forever as well!. Again, thanks,...it help me as I tightened up the sight protector ears on the rear....
RabbitusMaximus 1 year ago
how wonderfully complex... I mean British. Who I'm I kiding .I want one!
pigwigpa 1 year ago
I wonder if you might be able to help me. I have a B.A.S.Co, Sht. L.E. 1917. I pulled the bolt all the way out, which I've done several times previously for cleaning. Putting the bolt back it will go forward but will not lock. All the vids I've watched seem to have a lever to push but my rifle doesn't seem to have one. Any ideas what may be wrong?
Paleopipes 1 year ago
Great videos man. Thanks for posting so many, and on such a variety of enfields. I'm hoping to start my own collection here in Canada and these are very helpful in my research on what I want to get (or rather what I want to get first). Keep it up mate, cheers.
Natemire 1 year ago
Thanks again. Now feeling confident about my own re-wooding task. Ross
rossaust 1 year ago
Great video, I had to go to several hardware stores before I could find a screwdriver long enough to reach the butt stock bolt. Also, disassembling the magazine release/sear assembly is a nightmare, the leaf spring is so hard to place and compress correctly.
SpiroHrvoje1989 1 year ago
I have a No 4 Mk1 but here in Canada, after the war, they all sporterized the No 1 Mk3 and No 4 Mk1 for civilian use. (Removed the front wood part, leaving the barrel naked) and im working on puting back the original parts. Thanks for this vid, will be useful.
yerchedmad 1 year ago
Where's the VEGEMITE!!!!!!!!!! LOL
regondi 2 years ago
great vid ,but may i ask why are u puting new stocks on to it is it to make it look more original with that finish on it ,keep the vids coming
biggzyboys 2 years ago
This helped me out tons! Too bad I didnt see it when I dissassembled mine... Good lord did I ever lose parts and broken screws.
3sporks 2 years ago
Is it possible to have the Fore-Stock' and 'Front-Hand-Guard' end at or immediately after the 'Outer-Band' (exposing more of the forward part of the barrel) ???
Joel
phantomtalon556 2 years ago
Is it possible to replace the front handguard without removing the nosecap?
gordon2089 2 years ago
Good vid.
Picked up a Lithgow 1918, imported to us by JJCO, who made a bunch of parts guns, (many of which the recoil shields are missing) mine is all matching. Just to make sure took it apart, Shields are in place. Found a hair line crack near them so used DAP Carpenters glue to seal it up.
Thanks.
P.S. mine hasC.M.F. over 3.M.D
Am I correct that
3.M.D is 3rd Mil, Dist (Victoria/Melbourne)
is C.M.F Citizens Military Forces
1/19 is also on stock any guess as to its meaning ?
Bidimus1 2 years ago
@Bidimus1 1/19 is month/year manufacture. Likely that despite parts (receiver, barrel etc. being labelled 1918) it was not assembled till January 1919. May have other markings on butt, such as a Lithgow Shield and Model number, (I note mine are faint). CMF and 3MD markings are post WW2 of course.
rossaust 1 year ago
Comment removed
fuckthissignoncrap 2 years ago
I also have a 1941 Lithgow. Fantastic rifle.
madmantxtx 2 years ago
I love the Lee-Endfield, in my eyes the best rifle of the second world war
mofert 2 years ago
Great vids mate!! =)
TheBlackSpider82 2 years ago
us boys and our toys
austeyr3 2 years ago
Haha... with the nose cap, as a certain Youtube Gun loving New Zealander would say "Use some brute force and ignorance."
Leigori 2 years ago
Way kewl. Thanks for the post.
serekithegreat 2 years ago
Kool vid would it would be kool if u did the same thing with a Mosin Nagant M44.
A101stEagle 2 years ago
Not different at all with respect to disassembly. I use Circa 1850 furniture stripper to remove all of the layers of gunk and stain...this product seems to work quite well on gun stocks. After that I tend to use a damp towel and a clothes iron on high/steam to raise the grain and get rid of any dents. I saw on a website that
running the wood through a dishwasher can really clean and raise the grain but I haven't tried this. There's a lot of info for milsurp collectors online. Have fun!
ronevsorg 2 years ago
This will really help me since my grandfather will probably give me his old Lee-Enfield he bought after WWII. It's barely been fired at all and has been sitting in a gun cabinet for God knows how long. And I'll probably have to pay a crapload of money to get it restored. Bolt-actions FTW!!!
Rektek23 2 years ago
Good stuff! love the Enfields
TescoVee 2 years ago
a very interesting and useful video...thank you for sharing it!
willembrock 3 years ago
look up the P13, P14 and P17.
Earlkrumm 3 years ago
Thanks. Your video gave me the courage to strip a "Jungle Carbine". It would be a great rifle but the flash hider and bayonet lug were hacked off, the rear sight removed, and a Weaver scope bridge put on. As it is the barrel length is now barely legal in Canada and I'm sure it'll kick like a mule, but the bore is good and it has harvested a number of deer. It was cool to see what was under the wood since it hasn't seen the light of day in years. You make me like enfields!
ronevsorg 3 years ago
and then you get to re-zero it. oh joy of joys :D
mangledrip 3 years ago
that damn bird at 4:20 scared the shit out of me
shootershit2 3 years ago 2
yes but why???
88pie88 3 years ago
I dont remember exactly, but I think the frontsight is integral to the barrel, the rear sight is attached with a screw, but i would think it unadvisable to remove unless you had a problem or a new/better sight.
stefanmckinley 3 years ago
just a note, i've found on the #4 enfield it's easier to check the sear/trigger alignment after you snug the 2 screws on
24GordonFan223 3 years ago
Grazie zio!! mi hai risolto un bel problema, continua così.
dottaz 3 years ago
thanks a bunch, my Enfield will be getting a thorough cleaning come summer.
nutso420 4 years ago
Very well done! I was wondering why the trigger pull on my "Sporterized" '43 (Longbranch) No.4 Mk 1* was so sloppy, and after watching your presentations, I found that the kingscrew was only finger tight. (as well, the buttstock was loose). My groupings have improved exponentially, thanks to you! I am looking to restore my No 4 to "era orginal" condition, and now I know what components I am looking for. Kudos to you mate!!! Awesome collection of rifles you have!
thumperpaul 4 years ago 2
nicly done..
countrywideboy 4 years ago
Thank you so much for these videos! Not only did I get my No. 3 MkIII taken apart in a jiffy, I also got it back together again. And it works!
Nine out of ten, sir!
gmoore9449 4 years ago
Up here in Washington, they sell some Lee Enfield rifles. Although, I do not know what model they sell, because the gun dealer doesnt know a thing about their weapons and they dont let you check the firearms. But, they run for around 80 which is what you paid for a couple of your Lee's. Would you recommand getting one for the price?
JackAssWipeShit 4 years ago
$80 is DIRT cheap! The only thing to possibly worry about is that they may be Khyber Pass copies and are dangerous to shoot.
AMCer 4 years ago
I would check as many aspects as I could first.
When I got my Enfield at a Bob Pope gunshow, it cost $220, bargained cuz my dad had bought from the guy before and is friends with him. Most if not all Enfields I've seen run around that price or higher.
KrazedGerman 3 years ago
That sounds about right, but the price also depends on the condition. I found a 1916 rifle for $200, the action was still in working condition, but the furniture was ruined.
stefanmckinley 3 years ago