Rock Climbing : How to Belay Yourself While Rock Climbing

[ELMONOPAKO]

DUDE WHAT SIZE IS YOUR HARNESS

[EpicHEH]

The grigri is not a self belay device.

This is more of a method of ascending, albeit a bad one. A better way to ascend a rope indoors is using an ascender/prussik with a grigri while occaisionaly tying stopper knots in the rope below you in case the grigri slips or you lose control of yor descent. I use this method to set routes at a climbing gym

[Keithphotorama]

I have been using this exact technique for many years and it works great for indoor climbing gyms. Use it for climbing, adding/removing climbing holds, and for wrestling on a over hang with someone using the same technique (we have lots of fun). For outdoor climbing I do Jumarring with Petzle Ascension Ascenders because they are so much faster to ascend, but use Gri-gri to descend. Jumarring outdoors is for when I take photographs of other climbers.

[grubwestatron]

i dont think this guy has friends to belay him...

[Quackenator]

3. A prussik will fail (slide) around 700-1000kg so for dynamic loading (a fall) that is not ideal.

4. A jumar/tibloc can shred your rope in loaded dynamically, for the tibloc, the carabiner has to be in a correct position for it to hold safely. Either case is less than ideal with the risk of a dynamic load.

5. The system shown in the video has no backup which is especially bad since you can't monitor it constantly (since you're climbing).

Whatever you do, be careful. Or just get a partner...

[Quackenator]

1. GriGri is NOT auto locking, it has "assisted braking capability" meaning there is a possibility that it will not lock or will lock too late

2. Threading the rope through anchor top rope style does not seem ideal since you have to pull up twice a much rope, that is for each meter you climb you have to pull in two meters of rope. You are also dependent on the rope running freely through the anchor/any obstructions. I would assume securing one end at the top is safer.

[Keithphotorama]

@Quackenator You are wrong about this! Securing one end of the rope somewhere else IS NOT SAFER! In fact it makes the rope a lot more stretchy causing a LESS control, and a lot less friction enabling the climber to ZIP down the rope dangerously faster. Trust me IT IS NOT safer. The method shown in the video provides SMOOTHER BETTER CONTROL making it SAFER! The difference is significant.

[Keithphotorama]

@Keithphotorama Just want to add one more thing. This is for Indoor Gym climbing. Outdoor climbing I would rather Jumar with Petzl Ascension Ascenders with top-roping setup.

[Northernblades]

@Quackenator Do not forget that while lowering,

the rope will feed through your hand at 3x the speed, of rappeling

Watch the rest of his videos, this dude is a MORON. and has not owned or manage this gym in over 2 years..

[deadballo]

This is a shitty method. Typical gym guy using the grigri hammer to nail a screw.

Don't use this method beyond the gym, guys. Relying on the rope to run freely through the anchor, a free hand, and dealing with rope stretch on a long climb isn't necessary and can land you in a world of hurt.

A better method us to use an ascender or similar device with enough weight on the rope (one end, fixed) to feed it through as you climb. I've also used a cinch this way.

[Phunkie77]

and what about jumar ? It would be simpler...

[DaveLowe28]

Coming from a tree climbing background I can't help but think a Prusik Knot or variation of would be just as good and possibly safer. The only downside is wear over time for both ropes and potential overheating if lowering too quick.

[deadballo]

@DaveLowe28

I can't help but thing you haven't climbed anything other than a rope.

Please, please don't try to belay yourself with a prusik when free climbing. In an emergency, you can use a clove hitch on a biner through both parts of your harness.

[DaveLowe28]

@deadballo I used to rock climb then I trained as a tree surgeon and hence, the tree climbing. I really fail to see how a prusik is wrong for this situation. There is no real chance of a long fall when top roping so no chance of overloading the knot and it slipping. Granted it is not quite as simple a grigri and most people seem to have a distinct lack of trust in prusiks but there is a reason why all tree climbers in the world use this method and trust it. I may be way off but how is it wrong?

[SaintedFox]

yes the shunt is 100% better i use it literally every week

[Keithphotorama]

@SaintedFox I have used a Petzl shunt, but for me a Petzl Ascension Ascender works better. The Shunt tends to slip down the rope a little if there is not weight applied. The good thing about the Shunt is that it does not cut into the rope like the Ascenders.

[Northernblades]

@Keithphotorama a shunt is also not rated for an fall forces.

[AntiGravity1989]

errr......Shunt??

[nephildevil]

i use an atc guide for this, going down in self belay mode sucks tho, it locks a bit too good fer that

[MultiClimbers]

DONT USE THIS TECHNIKE A GRIGRI ISNT SELF LOCKING U HAVE TO HARE THE ROPE HELED TO THE GROUND TO DO THAT

[loopyboopoo1]

what he meant is

" IF YOU DO FALL, YOUR BELAY DEVISE WILL CATCH YOU..... HOPEFULLY"

[PureEpinephrine]

Fail. High walls? In a gym. Ha!

[PureEpinephrine]

minitraxion, backed up by tibloc. this looks great in the gym, this is trash outdoor. no backup means death. what if the grigri fails and your 70 feet up?!? your life is entirely dependent on (a) ONE device and (b) one piece of bar tacked webbing (your belay loop). No one ever said you cant back up your belay loop with another piece of webbing, or use a quickdraw to trail a tibloc, or use a prussic backup on the rope, did they? Redundancy - saves lives.

[theninjaofhell]

@PureEpinephrine This isn't meant for outdoors you dipshit, this is for solo training when you're climbing high walls with no crash mats.

[AuStInStUaRt]

seems like its alot harder than its worth better make sure its an easy wall your climbing lol

[bruzwa]

@AuStInStUaRt not wrong man, I tried it once on an easy climb and its more hard work than enjoying the ascent. For every meter you climb its 2 meters of rope you have to feed through the gri gri. He should also be tying back up knots in the rope at intervals so that if the gri gri was to fail you will only fall so far

[gilbertotron]

Wouldn't it be easier to use a VT?