Added: 5 years ago
From: BadShoeProductions
Views: 160,735
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  • woudnt you want to remove the companion flange tool before checking preload with a dial torque wrench, wouldnt having to move the flange tool mass effect the reading?

  • @LS6Z28 You must remove it of course, if it's was still in the car. With the pinion in the vertical position and as slow as you turn the wrench, there should be no concern. If you make your own holding tool that's longer, it might be best to remove it for a reading.

  • @BadShoeProductions

    HI

    Ref crown vic 2003 I had a shop replace the pinion seal. They did not install a new crush ring. Not sure the got the preload right. It is now making noise.

    Did it need a new crush washer or did they just not torque it right?

    Will this result in damage to the ring and pinion if not corrected?

    thanks

    Rod

  • @JONSEREDdotWS Normally, a new crush sleeve is not needed on a seal replacement if done correctly. Sometimes a leaky seal is caused by a bad bearing making the flange loose. Of course bearing replacement would be needed along with a good cleaning and new sleeve. I your case, I have no idea but there may have already been a problem before the seal leak.

  • @BadShoeProductions

    HI

    Thanks for the help. Any idea what the torque would be when using the old crush sleeve?

  • @JONSEREDdotWS You can mark the pinion, flange and nut and simply run the nut back on to the mark and maybe add an 1/8 of a turn. The old Ford manuals will say to tighten the nut 100 ft-lb on old sleeve. If that makes too much pinion preload, then intall a new crush sleeve.

  • nice video, done the proper way too, without an impact gun

  • How about withe the differential on the car and sitting on stools. Thats how my car is now and no way i can bare strength under the car.

  • @93foxwcubes I hope you mean jack stands. Frankly, it's pretty dangerous trying to tighten the pinion under the car like that. It really needs to be on the car lift.

  • As simple as this looks now, I spent days brain storming on what was meant by rotational drag when setting the pinion preload. I was expecting something very difficult and complex. I had several people try to explain this but in the end all it took was watching this short video clip for it to click.

  • is this inch pounds with no differential or axles installed ?? can u chek preload with dif. installed or not recomended???thanx my first gear swap

  • @MrHuejucar65 This should be done without axles or carrier.

  • This is a great video on how to set pre- load correctly. Thanx!

  • Thanks for the video how do you go about setting backlash on the same axle? We have an Mustang 89 we hope to replace the diff, halfshafts etc ourselfs. I replaced the diff in my Toyota 4Runner no problem but didnt need to adjust anything as only replaced the spider gears for auto-locking cogs and reinstalled everything back where I marked it. The Mustang has new everything but cant find anyone trustworthy enough to do the job! lol

  • @tonyppe Backlash is changed by changing the carrier shim thickness. You can find a chart in a Ford shop manual.

  • @BadShoeProductions I think I get it now! For irony, the info you posted I was able to google search some more for a better understanding. This took me to a forum thread from 2002, and then to your "prodigypages" then to your new website. So thanks again :D Do I need any specialist tools to insert these shims?

  • @tonyppe There's a special rounded tool for tapping the shims in which you could make. A brass punch works well too.

  • mann, im just waiting to hear this thing strip or snap.. amazing.

  • I picked up a wrecked 98 Mustang GT, with recently replaced with 373s & the bearings were all replaced with an SKF Kit. Whoever did the work did not see your video, as the Pinion Nut was not only NOT torqued to 140 ft/lbs, but they had not torqued it enough to remove the last .030" of axial play! I have disassembled everything & have a KSF rebuild kit ready.

    So my question, found a .025" Shim on the Pinion under the aft of the 2 Pinion Bearings, but how do I know that this is correct? Thanks

    

  • @FFRHamptonVa Frankly, you don't know if it's the right one. You could try it and see if the tooth pattern is correct. If it's wrong you'll know which direction to go.

  • Good video, thanks.

  • Is this with the Axles in the Housing??

  • @berkelusa No, the housing is empty.

  • Kens videos are great. I highly suggest then for any diy guy.

    Ken, this is jeff from pony down. :)

  • Is the 8.8 video, similar to rebuilding a Dana 60 rear end? I just can't find a specific rebuild video for a Dana.

  • I'm looking for a video on rebuilding Dana 60 rear ends. Would your video on the 8.8 be similar enough to the way the Danas are rebuilt? to be useful? Or are they way different?

  • @spartaeus No, the Dana's are a bit different from the 8.8".

  • Do you have any videos for rebuilding a Dana 70 rear axle?

  • I don't have any yet but it may be a future video project.

  • besides the breaker bar wat r the name of the tools your using??

  • I'm using a Ford flange holding tool, an in-lb torque wrench and a 1-1/16" socket

  • I had a pinion bearing go out and I changed it out and now I have a vibration when I let off the gas. what do you think I need to do?

  • I have no idea. Is the pinion nut loose causing up and down play of the companion flange? Possible damaged gear teeth on the coast side. Often, when a bearing goes bad, other bearings or parts are also damaged from floating debris. May have to check everything again.

  • what, exactly does preload mean?

  • The inner bearing is pressed on however the outer bearing isn't so it's race can spin on the pinion shaft (not good). Therefore a crush sleeve is installed to put tension on that outer bearing race keeping it rigid on the pinion shaft. By crushing that sleeve to a set preload, the race is locked to the pinion but the bearings are not overly tight against the mating races in the axle housing. Too little preload, the bearing race may spin but too much load creates high friction on the bearings.

  • Hi, Ken! I followed all of the instructions in your Ford 8.8 video to get my rebuild done last weekend. Your "Ford tool" alternative method worked great at helping me to select the correct pinion shim on the first try. Anyway, I just wanted to say thanks for creating a great instructional video that was like having a personal instructor walk me through my first differential rebuild job. The next one will be even easier, but I'm sure that I'll be watching the DVD again before digging in.

  • I'm installing a Detroit Locker and 4.10 gears in my Bronco's 8.8 and I'm watching a DVD that I bought to help me through it. In the video, they say to use an impact wrench, checking the pinion pre-load in between 1/2 second shots. Do you recommend breaker bars instead?

  • An impact should not be used because it could cause a small amount of damage to the bearing or race.

  • Never use an impact on any bearing

    When you do this, such as say the prevailing torque nut on a CV shaft through a hub bearing, the forces will actually cause the two sections of the bearing to slam into the balls/rollers and dent the surface they ride on. NOT good

    Same goes for hammering say a 6203 bearing onto a shaft, and applying the force to the outer portion of the bearing. The balls will actually dent the race of the bearing and then you will have installed a ready to fail bearing!

  • That's why I have a caption saying not to use an impact wrench

  • how much in.lbs should it be on used bearings?

  • 8-14 in-lb for used bearings but remember, that's with no carrier installed.

  • I think those are perfectly good shoes.

  • crap, I went to 31 in lbs.

  • great info man!

  • I love videos like this i learn so much, thank you

  • That's correct

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