E-Razor 450 Review - 3D Helicopter for Beginners - NOW 2.4GHZ!

[DavidSunshine867]

2 people bought this helicopter and crashed it right away!!!

DON'T BE LIKE BILL AND TED!!!

You can't buy this helicopter and fly it if you have no experience in flying this helicopter.

YOU NEED TO UNDERSTAND HEAD HOLD/RATE HOLD, IDLE UP/NORMAL MODES, PITCH CURVES, MAIN BLADE PITCH MEASURING, AND MOST OF ALL, YOU NEED TO PRACTICE ON THE SIMULATOR BEFORE YOU BUY THIS.

You will crash, guaranteed, if you have no experience with a helicopter that uses a SWASH!

Cheers, and have fun!

[fredmarques2]

Hi again David, once again i congratulate you for your pacience and sharing your info with me.. Folowing your set up prcedure i was able to give (normal mode) -3 degree pitch (throtle down) to +10 degree pitch throtle up. what is the procedure to set up the tail servo , im not sure if ive also changed the servo horn position so i ask you your pacience and knowlege once again so that i can finaly get airborne

Thanks

Fred

[DavidSunshine867]

@fredmarques2

hey, sorry I've been too busy to catch up on things.

So I'll try to help you the best I can through my phone.

The best way I can recommend setting up the tail, is to google for Helifreak finlessbob white, he made videos of 450 trex setups, find the tail one, it's your gold!

The knobs, it sounds like it's working like my video right?

If so, then it should work fine.

I'll try to find better answers once I get time on the computer.

Cheers!

[DavidSunshine867]

Hi Fred,

Pitch is the bottom of your normal pitch curve, turn on the heli, unplug the motor, and set this to negative 5 degree of pitch or less, 3 min. PLT is pitch limit travel, the top of your normal curve, max positive pitch in normal, set this to max, that's fine, make sure your pitch is 10 or more.

Make sure you unplug the motor before doing this.

Idle up has no settings, they are all fixed.

Cheers.

[fredmarques2]

@DavidSunshine867

Hi again David, ive already done what you ve told me and the both pitches are correct altought right knob (pot) is almost full ccw (left) and the right knob at the most cw (full right) positions to achieve + 11 degrees... is this ok? and now just one more info, how do i set up the tail servo and linkage since i do not remember if i ive touched it in the past... i promise this is the last help i need so that i can have a go this weekend... thanks once again David...

[fredmarques2]

Hi again David, first of all ide like to congratulate you for your tips since, as you already now, the instructions that come with the heli are a litle bit confusing, and more to people( like me) that arent yet familiarazed with rc helis. one more question, in Ci mode the labels near the pots say that the left knob becomes PIT ajustment and the right one PLT, what do they mean?

[DavidSunshine867]

@fredmarques2

Hey Fred,

I've posted a tutorial video, but it won't let me link it.

It's the latest video in my profile, titled E-Razor 450 Radio Setup Tutorial

showing how I set up my radio.

If you can get it working the same, your heli should fly fine.

Cheers.

[BringEllisTheHoriZon]

with this heli its 6 channel yeah? so is that the throttle, collective, rudder and left-right, back-forward tilt of the rotor head but thats 5... whats the other one? the on switch?

[cubiundmetin2]

wie lange kann man mit dem anfangs akku fliegen und wie lange lädt er?

how long can you fly with the standart battery and how long need it to load the batterys?

[DavidSunshine867]

@cubiundmetin2

Hi,

You could expect about 5 minutes from this Heli, and up to 10 minutes depending on your setting and the amount you are willing to drain(damage is caused if you drain it too much) your battery.

If you have a computerized charger like an IMAX b6, you can tell how much you put back in, a good rule of thumb is 80% or less of the battery capacity.

Charge at 1C, which equates to about an hour, to fully charge.

Cheers.

[fredmarques2]

@DavidSunshine867

Hi i also have a e-razor 450 RTF heli. In the introduction of your video you say youre going to create a pdf file regarding every aspect of seting up the heli and radio that comes with it... My question is that ive messed up with the linkages (width) and and two buttons (potentiometers) and im afraid to get of the ground like this... please, please can you help? do you have that info already. P.S the radio that comes with my e-razor is the 35 Mhz not the 2,4 Ghz ok.

thanks

[DavidSunshine867]

@fredmarques2

Hi Fred.

I started the PDF document, but then figured that instructional videos would be better. I've made those videos but haven't had time to do the video editing and get them posted.

I'll try to explain here:

The radio, you'll have A,V,H,C,Ci modes. C stands for CCPM, i is for inverted. You WANT Ci for the heli. The rest are airplane modes, do not use them.

Set your left knob to 40%, and right knob to 90% or so.

Scroll through to make urs set to Ci. And lock it.

[DavidSunshine867]

@fredmarques2

cont'd:

Once you've locked it, your 6CH switch should be down. AIL up, ELE up, THR down, RUD down. Set all trips to centre, some people say drop throttle trim, but I use middle on all my helis.

5CH - This is your gyro setting, down is rate hold mode, DO NOT USE THIS. You want it up towards you, this is head hold mode and the only way to fly.

6CH 3D - down away from you is normal mode, fly in this mode. Up towards you is idle up, fly in this once you are ready for 3D.

GL.

[BluesGuitares]

This is ofcourse my opinion. The seller, a Chinese warehouse in China, is selling chopper's with inferior electronics that if not fully understood, may injure the pilot or others watching!

They greatly overstate the quality of what they are actually selling!! They want your money! Nothing else and will not back up your' purchase!!!

[DavidSunshine867]

@BluesGuitares

Thank you for your comment!

I agree with some of what you say. They do want your money, as do all businesses, but they are simply selling lower quality products at lower prices. You can buy align products at double the cost, but the quality is only better, not double.

They do state throughout that it's for an expert. No need, all help can be found on the friendly forums, that's where I learned most of it, not from their crappy manuals!

Let's us know if you have any questions!

[unsc2295]

i also got mine from xheli, haven't opened it because my parents are gay and want me to wait until my dad gets back from iraq, only 2 more days though

[catamaranman333]

Best video I have found so far about this heli. I bought one and am waiting on it now. It's nice to see a video made with some actual INFO about the model not just "look, heres my heli watch me fly it" videos that are everywhere.

[DavidSunshine867]

@catamaranman333

Thanks for the comment, ya I think you'll be happy with it. It does fly well for $200, but it's not even close to the performance of a true extreme 3D Heli, but that's about $1000. I noticed you have no videos, so this must be your first Heli? Read the video description, I've got some valuable advice in there, hope it helps.

Cheers

[catamaranman333]

@DavidSunshine867 yeah...only the one old sailing video but its actually my second heli. I have had a blade cx2 for a few years now but this is my first ccpm heli. Thanks again for the good info!

[DavidSunshine867]

@catamaranman333

Anytime!

Oh I see, ya this is a more advanced heli than the CX2 for sure. It'll take some detailed setup to get everything right and flying properly. The main thing is to get the normal and idle up figured out, and the gyro's head hold/rate hold modes. If you got those things figured out, it should be easy to master.

Remember that rate hold centres the tail slider, and head hold will hold it in any position to keep the heli still.

Have fun!

[catamaranman333]

@DavidSunshine867 yeah the head-lock function is still a bit mysterious to me...the manual doesn't give much info and while I understand the concept, I have no Idea how to actually use these functions. As for the idle up switch....I just stay away from it til I have alot more simulator time......

[daduece2144]

how long of a run time do you get and how long does it take to charge with the stock charger?

[djminich]

When you got your helicopter did you have to tighten the screws for the rotor and tail rotor?

[DavidSunshine867]

@djminich

Hi, I'm not sure what screws you're talking about, I assume the main blade holder screws, and the tail blade screws? The main blade holder nuts are lock nuts, so they just need to be tight enough so that your blades don't fall when held horizontal, but will move easily with the light push of a finger. Your tail blades should be a little tighter than that, but not by much.

With respect to all the other screws, they all had loctite, I know because I overhauled the entire thing.

[DavidSunshine867]

@djminich

You should also be aware, that you should never trust anybody else's handy work. It only takes 1 screw without loctite to make you crash. Any RTF model you get, you should go over and check. A lot of people rebuild the entire thing themselves. It's probably good enough to just lightly tighten all the screws by hand. If they don't move, good, if they do move, I would unscrew it completely and add loctite, and put it back in. Not the best way, but better than nothing.

Cheers.

[BluesGuitares]

Just a heads up here. There's a lot of good quality birds out there, be carefull who you by from. In my exprerience, nitroplanes and xheli are not up to our standards. Again, the product's are good. Many times though, the products are not as described. What these guys call RTF is not what beginners want to get into. Their customer service, tech support, and interpretation of what the products should be cappable of doing are far from advertized!!! Be carefull.

[DavidSunshine867]

@BluesGuitares

Thank you for the very informative message and warning.

I agree 100%, I would assume that they provide no technical support whatsoever. Also, an RTF model is not ready to fly out of the box, it's a lie. You must fully check all systems and functions before flight; for beginners, this is a challenge or impossible.

Definitely, buyer beware, when it comes to RTF kits, educate yourself first, it's good advice.

[gatornation151]

would i be able to connect a servo to the rx for retracts?

[DavidSunshine867]

@gatornation151

Nope, all 6 channels are used, the rx is a 6ch only.

So you'll need a 7ch radio for the retracts. Cheers.

[gatornation151]

@DavidSunshine867 what about a Y harness?

[DavidSunshine867]

@gatornation151

The gear channel is the only one that's switchable, and it's not adjustable.

The retract will most likely need to be either full deflection or adjusted a bit.

If you're ok with flying in head hold then rate hold modes, and the retract can be adjusted to -60/+60 or so, you could do it through that, but for all the hard work of a scale, you'd want something that works properly.

So a Y harness could work, but it's a bad solution.

7 CH is the best option.

Cheers.

[gatornation151]

@DavidSunshine867 alright, thanks alot!

[moolikeacow2]

Nice review man!

[DavidSunshine867]

@moolikeacow2

Thanks man, I made it as accurate as I could. To give everyone an impression on the quality and characteristics of what you get for your hard earned money. It's impressive what you can get for $200.

Cheers.

[t07xqj4o]

Hey David, for this heli, what's your comment on the main gear teeth stripping too soon with a brushless motor setup, especially with touch-and-go stunts in low cut grass where the tail rotor blades only touch the grass lightly and briefly?

[moolikeacow2]

No kidding. Absolutely amazing what you can get for $200 these days.

[MaximD9]

Thanks for the video! I just got my 2.4G Dynam 450 today! I got a simulator for it too cus this is my first heli. lol its going to be a challenge I did spin it up and keep it no more than 1/4"-1/2" from the ground. yeah Im going to spend a lot more time on the simulator!!!! any tips you can give for a first time flyer? Thnx

[DavidSunshine867]

I think I responded by a message, but not sure. You got the most important concept down, which is SIM!!! If you can't hover in all orientations in the sim, you're not ready for the real thing.  Once you're fully comfortable in the sim, you're ready to take it out to fly for real.

I have some tips and spare parts lists in the video comments that will also help.

Cheers.

David.

[motoballz]

@MaximD9 Learn to hover it nose in to you on the sim.

[eskybeltcpflyer]

How does the detrum gy192 gyro hold? thinking of getting it for exi 450

[DavidSunshine867]

I think it's a pretty good gyro, it's not as good as the gy401 I have, but while I flew the Heli, I was flipping and tick tocking, I didn't have to mess with the rudder, that means the gyro is doing it's job.

If you're only hovering, you may notice some drift, but with gyros, you get what you pay for, the higher quality gyro you get, the better hold you'll have. I would say the gyro is something you should spend more money on, you can always use it on other helis, so it's a longterm purchase

[eskybeltcpflyer]

Well if it held during all of the maneuvers you were doing in that video I'm sure it will be great for me. Definitely an improvement over my ols esky rate gyro! Thanks for the help, oh by the way you are an outstanding pilot, great aerobatics especially considering it wasn't a trex with super expensive electronics!

[DavidSunshine867]

Ya it did hold pretty well, but for hovering, it drifts more than my gy401, not enough that it bothers me though.

Thanks, it's not a super powerful Heli but it can keep up with most of what I asked it. I think it'll be much better with some carbon fiber main blades

though, I've had crappy blades on my trex and it has performed worse than that, makes a huge difference.

For flips, you want agility, that's what you can get from carbon fiber.

Cheers!

[gatorsm]

What fuselage is compatible with this copter? any military ones?

[DavidSunshine867]

Anything that'll fit the Trex 450 SA/SEv1/SEv2will fit this bird. The boom is the same length, and the height of the frame and head are almost the same. Viewing them side by side, you can't tell they're any different in width or height. Hope that helps.

[DavidSunshine867]

Hi MyDavian, I won't tell you to check out the manual, because it doesn't tell you everything you need to know, I'll try to do that here.

First, make sure your remote reads over 9.6v, and that your battery pack is full.

Then make sure your remote is properly adjusted, throttle stick at 0% power(left stick fully down), and on first.

Then make sure it is in normal mode, NOT idle up(3D mode). That means top right switch is towards the floor when the remote is laying down.

[DavidSunshine867]

Then make sure that your trims are all centered, all 4.

Now with the radio on, antenna up, place the remote at least 1.5m away from the Heli, and plug in the Heli pack. The Heli should arm and initialize, don't move it for at least 5 seconds, the gyro needs to initialize.

Now move your right stick, the swash should move, tilting the same directions as your stick movements.

Tail should move to your left stick commands.

Be careful and move the left stick up, the blades should spin.

[DavidSunshine867]

If you haven't flown in a simulator, I highly recommend you practice in there before trying to fly. If this is your first RC Heli flight, you'll crash right away. It takes a lot of practice to learn to even hover these things, which is what makes it so fun, and challenging!

Good luck mate, and let me know if you have any questions.

Cheers

[DavidSunshine867]

@learntoflywell, you're right, this is not a toy at all. Thanks for re-inforcing that on MyDavian. I said "be careful and move the stick up", but I should have STRESSED it.

These RC helicopters are powerful "toys", they're for fun, but they can kill you, or cause serious injury. Some people spin them up in their houses, someone's fiberglass blade let loose at full speed and went through the drywall, imagine if that was his throat, he wouldn't have lived to tell the story.

BE CAREFUL!

[MyDavian]

somebody know how to upgrade the radio to be 2.4 ghz????

[DavidSunshine867]

I plan to make a video of how to upgrade the E-Razor to 2.4ghz, since that's an upgrade that would make it more powerful and "bulletproof" to interference.

But in "short", you could buy the 2.4ghz radio system from xheli, and swap out the receiver, then set it up according to my 120 CCPM setup video.

As for channels, you connect ELEVATOR to the front swash servo. AIL/AUX to the left right swash, and gear/rud to the gyro.

[DavidSunshine867]

The throttle connects to the BEC of the ESC, to get power @5VDC, and control the power.

You can bind the receiver and radio usually by putting in a jumper and turning on the radio while holding the bind button.(Differs with each radio).

The curves and channel REVERSE must be set up properly, but if you get the swash and tail working as shown in my 120 CCPM setup video, your heli WILL fly properly.

It's a quick vid, but I plan to make some more to help you guys out.

Cheers.

[DavidSunshine867]

Oh ya forgot to mention that you should order a sim, the $20 will do wonders, and save you from expensive crashes, it'll be the best 20 you ever spent. Anybody new should get one!!! Or else you will crash for certain, like I warned in the video description.

Cheers!!

Ps: Crashing is fun, but it's good to try and keep it down to a minimum!

[ldudex]

I was wondering about the simulators - I know the Dynam E-Force 450 has some proprietary adapter to connect to PC, but I ordered a TT MD530 on Thursday and it's RC TXer appears to use standard mini-usb - so I should be able to use it with ClearView or whatever... =)

[DavidSunshine867]

Not sure about the mini-usb, that might just be for programming, but it'd be cool if it acted as a game controller. You should check to see if a game controller device appears when you plug it in.

Some transmitters have a training port, it's typically an S-Video, and you can hook this up to your audio input on your computer and run PPJoy and Smartpropoplus, it'll make a game controller and analyze the audio and convert it to inputs, respectively.

I find the $20 USB controller the easiest.

[ldudex]

Hahahah - yeah, I just got my E-Razor 450 2 days ago (arrived late at night), then tried flying it yesterday - on the 6th "flight" I wound up breaking the stupid feathering shaft (my bad).

Decided to order a heli that's much more "intermediate user friendly", the TT Innovator MD530 - WAY more "safety tech" - once I get that down, then I'll go back to the E-Razor 450!

And oh yeah, good luck finding PARTS for the E-Razor 450 - all stores I found were sold out of the feathering shafts... LAME.

[DavidSunshine867]

You're right, I thought there was lots of stock but I checked and sure enough, all out!! But no worries, because the feathering shafts are trex 450 sa/sev1 compatible, direct match. I used my SA shafts on there without a problem. Same length and threads.

The main shafts are proprietary though, so make sure you hav those!! Every crash will lead to a bent main shaft, that's why they come in packs of 3!

[ldudex]

Yep, I've got a pack of T-Rex 450 SA feathering shafts coming along with the new TT heli, so should be back up in the air soon - thanks for the info on that - you rock!!!!

Argh - so far I haven't damaged the main shaft but good to know that I should keep some stock on hand =))))

[DavidSunshine867]

That's cool. How'd you damage the feathering shaft without damaging the blades and main shaft?

If you damaged the blades, it's safe to assume the main shaft is bent, even if it looks straight. To really confirm that it's straight or bent, you need to take it out and roll it on glass. You could also take the head off, and run it at a low speed and put the base of a screwdriver against it, if it vibrates against the screw driver, then you know it's bent.

[DavidSunshine867]

@Idudex, how's the heli fixing going for ya? Let us know where you're at, and if you got any questions.

Cheers.

[dsteen44]

Where do you get parts for this heli? I bent my main shaft by skillfully ramming it into the ground, and I can't seem to find the parts. Thanks

[DavidSunshine867]

Hey dsteen,

I like how you put that. Haha.

I've been meaning to get some rebuild review videos up, I better get those up quick. If you got any questions, don't hesitate.

You can get all the parts from xheli, you probably won't spend over 125, but if you do, you can click the link in the video description and use the coupon code xxheli10, it'll get you $10 off. They used to have free shipping which would save you more, but it's not offered anymore.

[dsteen44]

Thanks much

[DavidSunshine867]

As for the parts you should buy, minimum is probably: Fiberglass blades, feathering shafts, main shafts, flybar.

If you don't have two 1.5mm hex drivers, you NEED them. Need a pitch gauge too, for setup afterwards. You can buy the EXI tool set for $35, it should have all the tools you need.

Other parts you should check are the main gear, belt, and servos(Test those by powering on and running the full range with pressure from your finger).

I'll catch more in my repair videos.

Cheers.

[DavidSunshine867]

Oh, also, with respect to tools, you'll want locktite, I almost forgot that, and it's the most important part!! If you don't have that for any screws going into metal, they'll work their way out during flights, vibrations, and it'll cause crashes. It's a pretty big contributor to crashes, improperly locktite'd screws, they always come out and cause some trouble. Sometimes you get lucky and laugh that it's half way out, but other times, you're not so lucky.

So don't forget that!

[ldudex]

Yeah, tell me about it, just got mine 2 days ago and already snapped the feathering shaft ... oh and guess what part doesn't seem to be in stock ANYWHERE... sounds like bad design to me.

Wound up ordering a few diff. feather shafts that looked like they could be a direct swap (this heli is a clone, after all), will let you know if any of 'em work out.

In the meantime I ordered an Innovator MD530 - much more stable, yeah, more $, but ya get what ya pay for ;-)

[DavidSunshine867]

Hey,

Ya, you can use the Trex 450 version 1 feathering shafts. But Xheli should have them in stock, I've never seen any spare parts out of stock for the erazor there. It's cheaper than trex parts and work fine for me.

The erazor is pretty stable, but also pretty agile, so it's good if you're going for a Heli that can do sport 3d, it'll work well for just hovering and upright flight, you just need to reduce the rates in normal mode, the radio is fully programmable for that.

Cheers

[Spaeckli]

hey, which one do you think is the best 6ch 3d rc copter for beginners?( limit 200$)

[DavidSunshine867]

Hey Spaeckli.

If you're willing to spend more, $300, you could get something like the Exceed RC Blueray with a 2.4ghz radio. You would get a 2.4ghz radio system that you could adjust, the frame is carbon fiber, and it's a lot like the Trex 450SEV2. It's good if you really want to get into extreme 3D.

The E-Razor 450 is probably the best 3D heli for beginners, under $200. It has a metal head and tail, and a strong plastic body, makes for a good beginner's heli.

[Spaeckli]

ok thanks

[YourFriendlyMe]

hey i have a blade msr i can fly it when i master it can i get this heli i want something aerobatic if this heli isnt good for me what is any sudgestions?

[DavidSunshine867]

Hey, I think the erazor 450 is a good Heli for you to upgrade to, if you want to start flying aerobatically. It's not the best Heli for extreme 3D, you'll want the trex 450 pro for that, at least a SEV2 style head. But this erazor has a head similar to the SEV1, which was what everyone was using for 3D before the introduction of the V2, so without spending $1000 on a trex, this is a good Heli. Just a trex body and metal head will cost you $200 alone, this is the same quality, but lower cost.

[DavidSunshine867]

When you fly 3D, you will crash without a doubt, the body on this Heli is strong, and can take a crash like a trex SA, those plastic bodies were tough, even stands up to crashes better than carbon fiber, which is stronger but more brittle, so very prone to cracking on impact. Take a look at the bodies out there and compare, you'll notice that this one has much thicker and wider supports. I've tested the aluminum as well, it is high quality/grade, I only scratch tested it, but it seemed good.

[ldudex]

Weird - the version I got uses CF for a LOT of the parts, including the LG - which was WAY too easily broken - do you know of any METAL swapout LG? Seems like that would be better/more durable.

[DavidSunshine867]

You sure??? Haha, cuz the only carbon fiber on mine were for the boom struts and tail pushrod.

Sorry, I'm not sure what the LG is, what part is that?

[ldudex]

Sorry - landing gear.

[DavidSunshine867]

Haha ya I shoulda know that, but I kept thinking you were talking about linear guides or something.

Ya I know what you mean, mine broke on my crash too, I glued it back together but that's because I'm not rough on landing gear unless I crash so no biggy. But you should buy the black or yellow plastic landing gear for the trex 450 while you get the feathering shafts, I just checked, Xheli is out of stock on the erazor and some parts! I guess it's popular, but I can see why, it's good!

[ldudex]

Just out of curiosity, what type/brand of glue did you use to repair the LG? I tried some CA (aka super glue/krazy glue) but that didn't hold up very well...

[DavidSunshine867]

My landing gear is made of some cheap black brittle plastic, it won't CA very well, so I wrap it in black tread and use thin CA on that, let it set and it'll be rock hard.

Same goes for carbon fiber, but with your carbon fiber gear, you can use CF from an old frame or blades and wrap it in thread and CA that.

It's cool that your gear is CF though, but the problem with that is that it'll break easily too. Soft plastic is the best, it just bends, the trex LG is like that.

Cheers.

[DavidSunshine867]

Oh ya, brand, not sure, just some stuff from hobbycity, got it shipped when I got batteries from there, the brand doesn't matter that much, they all seem super strong. But the more expensive stuff might be a bit stronger and age better, I haven't noticed.

[DavidSunshine867]

And finally, electronics, the gyro does it's job, which can't be said for most cheap gyros. The servos are tough and high torque, great for 3D, the motor is like a scorpion 2221, meaning it will keep cool and last a long time. The esc is oversized at 40A, most are 30A.

The radio is ok, but I would get a cheap 2.4ghz set and upgrade, just so you could set a 100% throttle curve, and get away from interference problems.

The parts are also cheap, so that's good.

Hope that helps!

Cheers,

David.

[mraperish]

@DavidSunshine867 Ive just purchased mine actually, would be great If i knew someone to could help me out with some details about the helo. Not knowing anyone at all its a bit of a big step into the unknown.

[DavidSunshine867]

Cool, it's a good Heli to start with, that's for sure, but even though it's all set up, you'll want to get yourself familiar with normal and idle up modes, checking the main blade pitch and knowing what it should be set to, etc.

It's a lot of unknowns, but the whole hobby is about having fun learning. Lots of people to help you out at rcuniverse forums, and I'm gonna make some tutorial vids, so there's no shortage of info, just gotta go through it all, and the unknowns will be few.

[ldudex]

I agree that the parts are cheap, but the problem is FINDING the parts - especially on the darned feathering shaft - I sheared mine yesterday and couldn't find a single supplier that had it in stock... any suggestions? Is there a compatible part that's of another brand? The head assembly looks like an Align clone... perhaps that would work?

[wcwickedclown]

hey dav did you check out my raptor 30 conversion to raptor titan 30 ?

has a redline 53 motor and the works.

[wcwickedclown]

love your vid teacher , 5 stars

awesome