Added: 1 year ago
From: pickupmusic
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  • You know it's funny, I've been around firearms my whole life, grew up shooting on a farm in Iowa, 7 years in the Army, and now just day to day carry/practice. Had proper safety and care drilled into my head the entire time, and up until earlier tonight, had never even heard/thought of using grease, lmao. I think I agree with you... still use oil for rotating parts, but might try grease on sliding metal to metal.

  • Haha I am aware but less wear equals a higher resale value and a longer life of crucial parts. Most people don't have to worry about dirt affecting their carry gun so a little extra oil and grease shouldn't be a problem. Also It prevents ugly scuffs from forming on my firearms barrels and less friction = less heat. I train with my firearms frequently so more grease means I don't feel so bad about racking the actions a million times. Just how I feel take it as you'd like. Thanks for the response

  • How's it going. I was wondering the same things for a while in the past. I use both, HEAVILY. See the wear on your barrel and other parts? I keep my glocks barrel heavily greased and lubed as well as everywhere else. I oil the entire weapon as well, I then apply globs of grease with drops of oil on it and apply it to the firearm. Then remove the excess. My barrel is still yet to have a scuff on it.

  • @jweezyadig Wear on the barrel is normal, both on top towards where there is contact with the slide near the muzzle and barrel shroud... I use oil on rotating internal parts, and grease on the frame rails and inside the slide rails. I usually go over all metal parts with a thin layer of good CLP for corrosion resistance.

  • @steppara Could you at least check your spelling before insulting someone.

  • I was always taught to use butter. Is this all right?

  • Neither. I would recommend using a good carnauba wax. Wax is way more resilient than either oil or grease. The wax actually seals the pores of the metal to resist corrosion even further. It also keeps finger prints and the corrosive chemicals in our skin from damaging the metal. I live near the coast (lots of humidity and salt in the air) and have hunted in all conditions and the wax has worked beyond my expectations.

  • @usmguy1234 That's a first for me, but interesting to hear.

  • use both at the same time , what the gun doesnt need it will burn out of there in the first few shots

  • just use a little TW25B, polish it in, that's all you need mil-comm .com pre-treat with MC25 cleaner and thats your C+LP

  • I'm like you even though I know my sig pro would work flawlessly without having to clean it so much, but to me I was taught to always clean and maintain my firearms even after I shoot that way I know they will always shoot good. So ever time I use the stuff and go shoot then come home to break it down and clean it, even though sometimes there will be alot of black powder substance on the gun from some of the cheap ammo I use, I can always still see the TW-25b grease where I put it. It only take

  • @pickupmusic- I use the synthetic TW-25b grease for my sig pro 2022 in .40s&w, it's the same stuff sig recommends for there sig pistols. You should have gotten the brochure that came in the case. It also states it's the number one product choice for our military and special forces guys, which I asked two of my brothers who are navy seals and they verified it with me that they all use it and love the hell out of it.

  • That's way more lube than glock recommends. 5 drops.

  • Should only need to lub it every few hundrend to a thousand rounds for function but should still run oil and solvents through it after each shoot for rust preventing and maintaining accuracy.

  • Good thing the word "humm" was created to fill the wholes in that monologue!

  • I ran afoul of the text length policy. What I said Briefly is, use something with esters in it in a lite viscosity package. Esters have a natural affinity for steel and metal in general. They are nature's best oils IMHO.

  • All of these oik for guns are probably just light viscosity oils like 2.5or 5cst oils like those us find in winter type syn oils. I'm sure that they also put additives like zinc in their to help with wear but not much. Ull b fine with. A Honda tranny fluid (auto) or a gl5 type oil as it'll be thin enuf not to gunk up or bind but also it'll have enuf additives in it to protect the metal on metal wear.

    My tip is to find an oil that is synthetic and is ESTER BASED. Esters have a natural affinity

  • I have experimented w/ different greases & because I carry daily, it just attracts loads of dust/dirt. I understand now why it is not recommended. I also know some dudes in Special Ops units that say the same thing over in the middle east. Key is to moisturize your gun w/ good oil and use it very sparingly. To each their own though :)

  • When oil runs in your gun it's not a good thing. For that Sig, apply the oil sparingly to the recommended areas & rub it in good (try FP-10). The oil will be there even in the heat. The metals pores just stay moist which is the most important thing. Doesn't need to be wet at all.

  • Most gunsmiths I know recommend keeping grease off any semi-auto pistols (Sigs especially). For my gf's P239 I tried everything. Best results were either Ballistol for cleaning & lube or FP-10 for finish lube. Here in AZ the heat tends to make everything dry up fast.

  • Or you could just buy an XD-m and not really worry too much about it :)

  • I do sort of the opposite as james below. I grease the heavier/fastest moving metal on metal surfaces: the barrel and the inside of the hole around it that it makes contact with, receiver, locking block, the slide rails on the frame and slide and the area in the rear of the frame near the trigger bar. I think the properties of grease are better suited for the job and like you said, it stays put. I LIGHTLY CLP the rest of the slide and no lube in the striker channel, unless it's detail stripped.

  • Generally I use natural gun oil on fast moving parts and general surfaces (love the smell). As far as slow moving interal parts (pins and sear surfaces for example) I use synthetic grease. That is for room temperature use.

  • ever try Smoke Begone or Engine Honey? That stuff won't disappear and it is SLICK. These products are used for engines with ring problems and have the thickness of honey. Designed to stay where they're put and lub well in the internal heat of engines--I find it doesn't dissipate at all, even after a year or two in the instruments I lubricate. I won't dry out and cake up like thin lubs. You can get it a O'Reillys, etc.

  • how do you get a bone infection? lol Not trying to laugh at you but damn that is definitely a first for me

  • @Aaotrom Broke my tibia, had a rod put in the bone, and it developed an infection

  • @pickupmusic

    Damn that had to suck. Hopefully you healed up well

  • I use Weapon Shield CLP & gun grease that comes in a syringe and its been good to me. To be honest with you i've used everything under the sun and even in the most extreme civilian conditions any gun and oil and grease will work almost identical, just my 2cents. Cool vid !

  • In answer to your verbose question, you should be asking where should I use grease, and where should I use oil. Oil is good for internals, such as your lower and FCU. On the high stress/friction parts, you should use grease. This includes the slide rails, outside of the barrel, and cam pin. I use light grease on my carry gun all the time, and standard viscosity for range and game guns. Something like Brian Enos' Slide Glide lite for carry, and standard for all other times.

  • grease if your going to war either way if you have a great weapon it will run without it when I change my carry weapon to a glock 23 I didnt lube or clean all the way through 2k rounds thats how I chose that I was going to carry it my gun never failed good vid thanks oh ya you have a sig very good weapon it will still run if you didnt lube or clean you should try it

  • @miltnxc123 I'm actually going on about 500-600 rounds without cleaning the Sig... but I'm about to clean it before winter, more for rust protection than for function

  • vaseline??????

  • Lately, I have been using high temperature wheel bearing grease, I live in Florida.. The functioning range of greases usually ranges is from -10 to 600 degrees. The material does not drip on to clothing or holsters and seems to have the desirable qualities we use them for. I have been buying from auto supply stores and online.

  • I use gun oil for my pistols. I carry a glock and I lube it lightly with Breakfree CLP. I just ordered some gun grease made by Weapon Shield for my AK-47 tho. Let me know how the automotive grease works out. Gun grease is about 200% more && than the stuff you can get at the auto parts store. . . I do not know if there is a difference. . . .

  • I rather oil! Great vid!

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