@enginelover1 Thank you. I like the engine a lot but I remain very disapointed by the engine's internal water leak, that rapidly ruins the oil, and means I can only run the engine for short bursts without any water in the cooling system.
@enginelover1 The push rods are internal and the water appears from the base of the 'tunnel' that the rods pass through, therefore I'm suspecting a crack in the block. When I stripped the engine it was clear that it had received a large external frost dammage repair, but there is no easy way of getting to the crack inside of the 'tunnel'. I've had a quick look at your video list and enjoyed your R&H video.
@MidBrunswickGreen Thanks for watching my videos. On my ruston 2vso, I din`t use water because it is too rusty from the inside so I fill it with burned oil. I would leave it like date your engine, run it for short time, like my vso.
@enginelover1 I only run the engine until the exhaust pipe becomes hot, so about 2 minutes at a time. I've thought of filling the cooling system with oil, but think it's best kept clean in the hope that one day I will find a paint that will seal the leak.
@MidBrunswickGreen No you can run it more than 2 minutes. My VSO run it when I feel the head a bit hot. It runs for about 45minutes, it depends on the revs I gave it. Slow speed it runs for a 60minutes.
@enginelover1 Thank you for your advice and I'm amazed that you can run your engine for such a long time without coolant !!!!! I guess it would be safe to run the engine for longer than two minutes but I just dare not risk damaging the engine.
@MidBrunswickGreen The thing you want to remember is, the engine is not on load! An angine on load doesn`t raise the tempreture! When you give it some throttle that moment slowing down (engine brake) the engine is colling because there is no burning fuel and the hot air from inside go out. On a car you see this when you are going downhill on a gear with no gas, the tempreture drops!!!!!!! The longest time I rann my engine was for about 75mins.
@enginelover1 Thank you again :) I think I could run it for a little bit longer, but knowing how hot the water used to get there's no way that I will dare to run it for longer than that hahahaha
You saying its hard to start and that heavy smoke under accelaraton makes me think that your timing its out, if you advance it a few degrees and see what happens
@05clenharth, I've tried many different positions for the timing adjustment wheel and although there is sufficient scope to retard the timing so that it runs rough, there is insufficient scope to advance far enough to achieve rough running. Or put another way the fuel pump cam isn't quite in the right position. Next time I get the engine out I'll advance the position of the fuel pump cam and see if it improves the cold starting. Thank you for sharing your thoughts.
@MidBrunswickGreen please let me know how it goes, you say the compression is good and by the look of the smoke and you saying you cant advance it till it runs rough i recon that the timing is slightly out
Please make a video if it makes a difference and send it to me i would be very interested to see if it pays off
@05clenharth I checked the old setting and found a max advance of 28 degrees BTDC. I then raised the bolt on the fuel cam follower by 0.6mm & that increased the max advance to 45 degrees. I now set the timing wheel to full advance for an INSTANT start & then reduce it to achieve smooth running with minimal knock. With my Lister CS running at a fixed 20 degrees BTDC I'd never have thought to alter the Bamford but now the easy starting is miraculous. Thank you VERY MUCH for your advice.
@MrSteamdan Yes, they are great engines and I prefer running my SD1 to my Lister CS. A week or so ago I discovered that the oil had gone milky and a check through the inspection hatch showed quite a significant driping of water. I had thought the the CarGo sealant had worked but apparently not. I've now purchased some K-Seal HD and will be running the engine for a long session very soon in the hopes that this product korks better than the CarGo. I'll re-use the K-seal for subsequent runs.
@MrSteamdan When I purchased the engine off eBay the castings had been smoothed with filler and it was spary painted in the wrong shade of green. I stripped it back to bare metal and am much happier with my finish.
Incidentally, I've submitted my restoration story for this engine, to Stationary Engine Magazine, which should appear later in the year.
And again a very nice restored engine! I love that sound from those engines! I wish I could help you to stop the leaking, but I don't have a clou what would help. If the leak is to big that leak sealant wil not help. It is just not strong enough to plug the hole. It's meant to fill small pin holes and cracks.
@steamwally Thank you, it's turned out well and apart from the wretched leak I'm very pleased with it. The paint is Witham Oil & Paint Supacote gloss (mid-brunswick green) that I've just brushed on; it's fuel resistant so I don't have to worry about spills :)
Ah right. I am restoring a little Ruston & Hornsby 6PB at the moment and will be using "Craftmaster" Ruston green. A bit dear but if it works out OK then it shall be worth it.
Your engine has a very good injector, nice diesel engine!
enginelover1 5 months ago
@enginelover1 Thank you. I like the engine a lot but I remain very disapointed by the engine's internal water leak, that rapidly ruins the oil, and means I can only run the engine for short bursts without any water in the cooling system.
MidBrunswickGreen 5 months ago
@MidBrunswickGreen From where the water leaks, from the gasket or cracked cylinder head? Did you seen my engines?
enginelover1 5 months ago
@enginelover1 The push rods are internal and the water appears from the base of the 'tunnel' that the rods pass through, therefore I'm suspecting a crack in the block. When I stripped the engine it was clear that it had received a large external frost dammage repair, but there is no easy way of getting to the crack inside of the 'tunnel'. I've had a quick look at your video list and enjoyed your R&H video.
MidBrunswickGreen 5 months ago
@MidBrunswickGreen Thanks for watching my videos. On my ruston 2vso, I din`t use water because it is too rusty from the inside so I fill it with burned oil. I would leave it like date your engine, run it for short time, like my vso.
enginelover1 5 months ago
@enginelover1 I only run the engine until the exhaust pipe becomes hot, so about 2 minutes at a time. I've thought of filling the cooling system with oil, but think it's best kept clean in the hope that one day I will find a paint that will seal the leak.
MidBrunswickGreen 5 months ago
@MidBrunswickGreen No you can run it more than 2 minutes. My VSO run it when I feel the head a bit hot. It runs for about 45minutes, it depends on the revs I gave it. Slow speed it runs for a 60minutes.
enginelover1 5 months ago
@enginelover1 Thank you for your advice and I'm amazed that you can run your engine for such a long time without coolant !!!!! I guess it would be safe to run the engine for longer than two minutes but I just dare not risk damaging the engine.
MidBrunswickGreen 2 weeks ago
@MidBrunswickGreen The thing you want to remember is, the engine is not on load! An angine on load doesn`t raise the tempreture! When you give it some throttle that moment slowing down (engine brake) the engine is colling because there is no burning fuel and the hot air from inside go out. On a car you see this when you are going downhill on a gear with no gas, the tempreture drops!!!!!!! The longest time I rann my engine was for about 75mins.
enginelover1 2 weeks ago
@enginelover1 Thank you again :) I think I could run it for a little bit longer, but knowing how hot the water used to get there's no way that I will dare to run it for longer than that hahahaha
MidBrunswickGreen 2 weeks ago
@MidBrunswickGreen Remember me where does the crack leads? Where does the water go if it passes trough the crack?
enginelover1 2 weeks ago
@enginelover1 The water leaks straight into the sump and turns the oil into mayonaise.
MidBrunswickGreen 2 weeks ago
You saying its hard to start and that heavy smoke under accelaraton makes me think that your timing its out, if you advance it a few degrees and see what happens
05clenharth 8 months ago
@05clenharth, I've tried many different positions for the timing adjustment wheel and although there is sufficient scope to retard the timing so that it runs rough, there is insufficient scope to advance far enough to achieve rough running. Or put another way the fuel pump cam isn't quite in the right position. Next time I get the engine out I'll advance the position of the fuel pump cam and see if it improves the cold starting. Thank you for sharing your thoughts.
MidBrunswickGreen 7 months ago
@MidBrunswickGreen please let me know how it goes, you say the compression is good and by the look of the smoke and you saying you cant advance it till it runs rough i recon that the timing is slightly out
Please make a video if it makes a difference and send it to me i would be very interested to see if it pays off
05clenharth 7 months ago
@05clenharth I'll definately get back to you but it may take a while, but as soon as I have the chance to adjust it I'll post my findings :)))
MidBrunswickGreen 7 months ago
@05clenharth I checked the old setting and found a max advance of 28 degrees BTDC. I then raised the bolt on the fuel cam follower by 0.6mm & that increased the max advance to 45 degrees. I now set the timing wheel to full advance for an INSTANT start & then reduce it to achieve smooth running with minimal knock. With my Lister CS running at a fixed 20 degrees BTDC I'd never have thought to alter the Bamford but now the easy starting is miraculous. Thank you VERY MUCH for your advice.
MidBrunswickGreen 7 months ago
@MidBrunswickGreen NICE ONE! please make a vid some time :D
05clenharth 7 months ago
@05clenharth I'll try and film one when it's much colder :)))
MidBrunswickGreen 7 months ago
I'm getting a Bamford soon lovely engines
MrSteamdan 1 year ago
@MrSteamdan Yes, they are great engines and I prefer running my SD1 to my Lister CS. A week or so ago I discovered that the oil had gone milky and a check through the inspection hatch showed quite a significant driping of water. I had thought the the CarGo sealant had worked but apparently not. I've now purchased some K-Seal HD and will be running the engine for a long session very soon in the hopes that this product korks better than the CarGo. I'll re-use the K-seal for subsequent runs.
MidBrunswickGreen 1 year ago
the paint looks great!
MrSteamdan 1 year ago
@MrSteamdan When I purchased the engine off eBay the castings had been smoothed with filler and it was spary painted in the wrong shade of green. I stripped it back to bare metal and am much happier with my finish.
Incidentally, I've submitted my restoration story for this engine, to Stationary Engine Magazine, which should appear later in the year.
MidBrunswickGreen 1 year ago
@MidBrunswickGreen ive subbed to that ! so ill be able to see it (:
MrSteamdan 1 year ago
Hi my friend!
And again a very nice restored engine! I love that sound from those engines! I wish I could help you to stop the leaking, but I don't have a clou what would help. If the leak is to big that leak sealant wil not help. It is just not strong enough to plug the hole. It's meant to fill small pin holes and cracks.
Will write to you soon!
Marcel.
Redkrabby 1 year ago
@Redkrabby Thank's Marcel; I'll keep you posted on my second attempt with CarGo - should get it in the next few days.
MidBrunswickGreen 1 year ago
Great engine! You couldn't have used a better paint, it really is excelent.
steamwally 1 year ago
@steamwally Thank you, it's turned out well and apart from the wretched leak I'm very pleased with it. The paint is Witham Oil & Paint Supacote gloss (mid-brunswick green) that I've just brushed on; it's fuel resistant so I don't have to worry about spills :)
MidBrunswickGreen 1 year ago
Ah right. I am restoring a little Ruston & Hornsby 6PB at the moment and will be using "Craftmaster" Ruston green. A bit dear but if it works out OK then it shall be worth it.
Phill.
steamwally 1 year ago
@steamwally I've just had a look at their website; it looks like good stuff, I'm sure you will have a superb finish.
MidBrunswickGreen 1 year ago