Added: 3 years ago
From: hiramcook
Views: 11,653
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  • try puttinh wire from bread ties in your wic from top to bottom and loosen the wic in the hole.just somting to try not trying to be smart or anything .thank you for the video

  • try drilling some holes in side of that cap for air to help with a little updraft

  • nice video and how why is that screw there for? plz message back

  • you have 599 subers

  • I know. An according to my counter I have over 1 million video views. Wish I could thank each and every subscriber and friend. Never would I have thought that many people would find my videos interesting. Thank you all.

  • @hiramcook what do you think about using denatured alcohol indoors i heard its pretty toxic

  • Denatured alcohol also goes by the name "Fondue fuel" which is used indoors all the time. That being said precautions should also be taken with it's use indoors. Always use in a ventilated room. Sometimes if I do to many tests on my bench with the garage door closed (that's to cut off the light so the flames can be seen in the video) I can get a little punch drunk but as soon as I get some air into the garage things are ok again.

  • One thing though. Do not EVER drink denatured alcohol. Now that is toxic.

  • did you try it with out the wick i think that the wick is stoping the alc fumes

  • Lol on 1:17 there's a unexplained farting noise!!!!!'

  • Good ears, but that sound was the cans rubbing together.

  • Sorry about the double post, but I just thought of something else.

    Try putting the holes slightly lower down on that cap, so that once it is primed, the fire is in contact with the cap longer, transferring more heat there, and vaporizing even more alcohol, that way it wont go out, it will be self sustaining.

  • I cant see clearly, but those holes look too small. how big are the holes?

    In my experiments, slightly larger holes work better, especially for rubbing alcohol. You need to vaporize the alcohol in that small cap, so that it generates enough pressure and be forced out those holes.

  • RJ is correct. The copper needs to heat the fuel and vaporize it from the wick, so if you pull it up to be in contact with the copper, it should vaporize the alcohol at the wick. The aluminum below can stay cool which is the whole idea. The heat action only needs to take place at the copper. Prime only the copper. The wet wick blocks vapor from the can, so heating the can is useless.

  • the thing you built reminds me of the alcohol lamp used in heating burn in knives to melt shellac sticks for furniture repair. Where are you heading with this? What about the german esbit stoves of ww2 and fuel tablets and such? What if you poked a hole in the side of the can to let air in and regulated it like the US Army stoves of ww2. Of course they were pumped to mist the fuel. Whatever you're doing, I think it's cool.

  • i found that the wicks don't work too well..the tin should be in contact with the fuel. thats wut ive found to work best for me

  • trial and error leads to success! Try heating the stove first, maybe a wick around the bottom or an alcohol tray at the bottom. heat the stove and alcohol to vaporize it then maybe it should work.

  • So nice to see the evolution of your stoves (two or is it three stoves tested in one video!). At 6:55 your volcano stove flame is gorgeous.

  • You Rock!

    Bill

  • Oh i forgot on my wick stoves most time i just use masking tape for a try it last long enough to see if it work.They don't get to hot

  • Well there is tow things to try let the wick come up the tube almost to the top. Also with the cap put some side holes near the top.man you should see all my rejets.

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