What exact model Rollei do you have? SOME models, including the 2.8F in the video, have a roller in which the film must be pulled under when loading. Once the film is placed underneath this roller and then secured on to the take up spool, you can close the back door and proceed to wind the film to frame #1 by advancing the crank. If the film is not slipped underneath the roller and simply placed over it, you will wind through the entire roll of film without stopping at frame #1.
on my camera (standard rolleiflex from around 1932-1938) the roller you put the film through (at 1:30mins) is not there (only the two other rollers). there is a roller at the back of the camera though... so when i open it do i have to pull the film through the roller at the open backpart of the camera??
Your particular model camera will not have the roller as shown @1:30 min. of the video. Just bring the film to the take up spool and wind the film slowly on TOP of the rollers until the start mark on the film comes up to the start mark on the camera body. After matching start marks, close the film door and wind. Camera crank winding should stop when camera comes to #1. These comments are based on you having an older Rolleiflex; not Rolleicord.
@Steve... check and make sure whoever develops your film cleans the rollers on the Processor. I get lines sometimes and its from the developer.. I shoot a Hasselblad..
Very helpful! Exactly what I was looking for. Would have taken me quite awhile to figure out to put film underneath roller. Couldn't figure out where the film start mark was! This camera has some cool features! Thanks!!
Darn, I think I loaded mine wrong. That might explain why the film advance lever feels so stiff. Thanks for the video. I wish I saw it before trying to put film in my Rolleiflex.
The meter range on a Rollei 2.8F or 3.5F is 12 to 1600. These are selenium cells in the camera. If you have a camera with a good working meter, you are lucky. Better to have good working body with immaculate lenses. I wouldn't care too much about the meter as long as I have a nice hand meter such as a Sekonic.
@krolltan Forget using the camera meter. These cameras are completely mechanical and you can just use an incident lightmeter and set the shutter and aperture to what it tells you. I have a 3.5E with Planar lens. Made in 1958 it still works today. Can't imagine any digital camera lasting more than 5 years.
If you notice in the beginning he said what we have here is a Rollei 2.8F TLR.
There is NO need to pay attention to the start mark on the leader of a 120 roll film with a Rollei 2.8F or Rollei 3.5F. These cameras, if loaded properly UNDERNEATH that FIRST roller, as shown on the video, will stop at frame number 1 automatically. That 1st roller will actually feel the thickness of the film once past the paper leader and will then properly set itself up for frame #1.
@Christoff87 ... if he always fires of the "first" frame and uses the "second", which then is actual is the first and a half, he is allright. but then he only get eleven exposures on the film, the last, "twelfth", actually eleventh or eleventh and a half one probably only half ... but forget it. BETTER ALWAYS ALIGN THE START-MARK OF THE FILM!
What exact model Rollei do you have? SOME models, including the 2.8F in the video, have a roller in which the film must be pulled under when loading. Once the film is placed underneath this roller and then secured on to the take up spool, you can close the back door and proceed to wind the film to frame #1 by advancing the crank. If the film is not slipped underneath the roller and simply placed over it, you will wind through the entire roll of film without stopping at frame #1.
manhattanwalter1 2 weeks ago
So you barely wind the film when loading it? I wound mine to the first arrows and my counter wasn't working, so I guess that's why.
thesenatormatt 2 weeks ago
on my camera (standard rolleiflex from around 1932-1938) the roller you put the film through (at 1:30mins) is not there (only the two other rollers). there is a roller at the back of the camera though... so when i open it do i have to pull the film through the roller at the open backpart of the camera??
lezplaybaby 6 months ago
@lezplaybaby
Your particular model camera will not have the roller as shown @1:30 min. of the video. Just bring the film to the take up spool and wind the film slowly on TOP of the rollers until the start mark on the film comes up to the start mark on the camera body. After matching start marks, close the film door and wind. Camera crank winding should stop when camera comes to #1. These comments are based on you having an older Rolleiflex; not Rolleicord.
manhattanwalter 6 months ago
great tut. thanks!
rliuLY 7 months ago
@Steve... check and make sure whoever develops your film cleans the rollers on the Processor. I get lines sometimes and its from the developer.. I shoot a Hasselblad..
muchnoiseradio 8 months ago
Aren't you supposed to position the "start" arrow under the lower roller before closing the back?
jburgie 8 months ago
Thank you very very much. :)
aficiomaquinas 8 months ago
Thanks!
rezerk66 9 months ago
thx a lot!! very very helpful!!
CasiSantaTeresa 9 months ago
thank you!!!!!
cailindonohue 1 year ago
Very helpful! Exactly what I was looking for. Would have taken me quite awhile to figure out to put film underneath roller. Couldn't figure out where the film start mark was! This camera has some cool features! Thanks!!
harringtonphotog 1 year ago
my rollieflex 2.8fx don't have that 2 rollers only 1 roller so i don't need to insert that .
erictjie 1 year ago
Darn, I think I loaded mine wrong. That might explain why the film advance lever feels so stiff. Thanks for the video. I wish I saw it before trying to put film in my Rolleiflex.
:(
queerpriestess 1 year ago
I am thinking about buying a Rolleiflex 2.8f or a 3.5f. Can anyone please tell me the fastes ISO speed I can set the ISO too?
krolltan 1 year ago
@krolltan
The meter range on a Rollei 2.8F or 3.5F is 12 to 1600. These are selenium cells in the camera. If you have a camera with a good working meter, you are lucky. Better to have good working body with immaculate lenses. I wouldn't care too much about the meter as long as I have a nice hand meter such as a Sekonic.
manhattanwalter 1 year ago
I am thinking about buyin a Rolleiflex 2.8f or a 3.5f. Can anyone please tell me what the fastest ISO I can set one of these cameras too?
My Zeiss Ikon Ikoflex 1c only goes too ISO/ASA 320.
krolltan 1 year ago
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@krolltan Forget using the camera meter. These cameras are completely mechanical and you can just use an incident lightmeter and set the shutter and aperture to what it tells you. I have a 3.5E with Planar lens. Made in 1958 it still works today. Can't imagine any digital camera lasting more than 5 years.
airscrew1 1 year ago 3
If you notice in the beginning he said what we have here is a Rollei 2.8F TLR.
There is NO need to pay attention to the start mark on the leader of a 120 roll film with a Rollei 2.8F or Rollei 3.5F. These cameras, if loaded properly UNDERNEATH that FIRST roller, as shown on the video, will stop at frame number 1 automatically. That 1st roller will actually feel the thickness of the film once past the paper leader and will then properly set itself up for frame #1.
manhattanwalter 1 year ago
@Christoff87 ... if he always fires of the "first" frame and uses the "second", which then is actual is the first and a half, he is allright. but then he only get eleven exposures on the film, the last, "twelfth", actually eleventh or eleventh and a half one probably only half ... but forget it. BETTER ALWAYS ALIGN THE START-MARK OF THE FILM!
krgtim 1 year ago
thanks a lot!! This was very very useful!
ninazuzu 1 year ago
Don't you need to line up the start line with a mark in the camera?
Christoff87 1 year ago
thanks
yamazaki321 1 year ago
is that camera for sale
jwrowena 2 years ago