If you were just using this system alone without any other electrical usage... what would the cost of it turn out to be per month? jw. unless you dont know
Hey man I knwo this is way to late but i am going to use your project with your permission if you don't mind because i think i can improve it by just adding 1 more tube to dispense the water in the bucket faster which should take down the water flow about an inch or so if i placce one drain in the center and the other in the mid back using the same pump with more water in the bucket
I'd drill holes in the top near the end caps and just drop the supply into the holes and you wouldn't need the seals. put a 4" to 3" bell reducer4 on the other end to always hold a little water in case of pump failure. I'd place my tank under the end where it would drain right into the tank.
I'd drill holes in the top near the end caps and just drop the supply into the holes and you wouldn't need the seals. put a 4" to 3" bell reducer4 on the other end to always hold a little water in case of pump failure.
i reccomend anybody to try building a horizontal growing hydroponic aeroponic/system. Take a large round plastic trash can and drill lot of 50mm holes for net pots and you can fit hudreds for microherb productions and design a spray line for the interior and mount it higher than the sperate resovoir to ensure it drain and returns to you're res. It kind of like a aeroponic strawberry growing barrel that will grow hundred of horizontal small plants like strawberries.
look, if u pumped water into a tube that is the same diameter as the 3 flood tables, then had 3 leads connecting it you would therefore bypass your restriction problem
Cool idea. I had been looking into different systems to build and I ended up using multiple methods in different systems. Feel free to check out my videos to see what I came up with.
Couldn't you plum the tubes together so that they were all technically one tube. Put the pump at the beginning, it would fill the first pipe and flow into the second, then into the third. Use a cheap christmas light timer to turn the pump on and off. It'll fill the pipes, turn off, and the liquid would drain away into the reservoir
Yes, I think you could flow from one pipe to the next... I was concerned about draining the pipes as much as possible during my original constructions (O2 for the roots)... but leaving some water standing in the system seems to work for me. I cycle too often for a standard light timers.
I hear an external pump helps keep the temp. down some. I plan on some type of aeration system also,either spray jets or compressor. Thanks for sharing!
Still not underway with this project. Been several months now. Keep having to change things around. Nothing seems to be going Like I have it pictured in my mind. Suppose I should draw a diagram. Like davetidwell, I keep trying. With any luck I'll be growing in a few weeks. Sprouting some lettuce and spinach seeds now. Geting to cold S. Calif. L.A area. May have to wait 'till spring or build a greenhouse like dave's. worried about water temp. Is'nt this a fun way to spend retirement.
If you go for a plastic cover, as others have suggested, consider spending the money to purchase UV protected plastic. Suppose to last for several years.
I run the pump just long enough to fill up the tubes. The time depends on pump capacity. The outside system uses a 12vdc sump pump rated at 350 gph and it takes one minute to fill the system. I cycle the pump on every 20 minutes around the clock.
Well, I never entertained the idea that light would penetrate the pvc pipe... I shut the system down last weekend and did not notice any algae in the pvc, but some evidence on the plastic tubing going to m pump. See hydro13. Thanks for the tip.
Dave, my son and I have built similar tubular and square systems. To make things easier for cutting the holes, we found that pre-drilling the holes with a drill bit WITHOUT the 3 inch first will help. Next we proceeded to enter the drill bit with the 3" cutter, BUT instead of drilling in a RIGHT turn using the cutting edges, we cut in a LEFT and this CUT SMOOTHER EDGES. Ernie of Oceanside California
Ernie, interesting info... I plan to use 4" post covers for next earthbox project (water reservoir) which will require drilling some circular holes. I'll try the counter clockwise approach.. Thanks
Have you seen thepvc pipes the use for fencing.?you can get them at home depot. they are 4"square by 6'. they cost about $14.00 each.can you give me the reason why you don't want to use pvc.
aye. we see the holes really close together too. maybe he plans small cultivars. but otherwise, good to watch for air flow around plants. crowded conditions breed disease because foliage does not dry.
you would still need to top off the nutes every day or so what ever method you use what you are aming for is the CF or PPM stay the same with each top off that means the plants are taking all that they need if the CF or parts PPM falsl the plants can take a bit more if it rises the are using more water than nutes so back off and just use ph'ed water, may be empty the tank and refill with less nutes. once you get the feed tank constant CF-PH stable you know your feeding the plants the best u can
over feeding= brown burn/rust spots and very dark green leafs.
allways use less nutes is better than over feeding.
join a cannabis growing community even if you dont aggre with it your self, but its a plant and i tell you you will not be short of millions of friendly hydroponic experts who will help you no matter what you are growing be it food, flowers or cannabis no one knows more aout hydro than a cannabis grower LOL.
sorry about the "Comment removed by author " i just put them in order of posting so it would make a bit more sense for you, if it makes any at all? LOL. hydro is not hard to master after 1 or 2 crops you will be growing like a pro.
nice to have the same PPM except u can't. PPM only measures solids, it does not tell u WHAT solids are in there. so if ur strain is using more calcium than the last strain then very quickly ur solids will be out of proportion to each other.
the way everyone does it is u add plain water to top up until u have added an amount that is equal to the original volume of nute water. ex: ur res is 10 gallons of nute water? so top off with plain until u have added 10 of plain, then empty, start over.
tip for you grow a plant in soil next to your hydro system to compare what it should look like i.e how green the plant is if it yellows it needs more of the grow nute because it can take more N (nitrogen) the yellowing can also mean the P.H is out of range also, thats why the ph is so important if its in the correct range you will have no problems at all. its not how much nutes you use because the plants will do well usin 1/2 strenght feed its down to the ph thats where its at.
make sure you cover the clear upvc feeder tube or you will get green algae growing in them, use masking tape to block out the light. also sink the res in the ground to help keep the water cooler. if the water gets to warm it can not hold air and your roots will die. tell me do you have an over flow pe going back to the res? also you are going over the top on the water schedule you are better off less water more time than more water for longer. ie 4 mins 1 once every 2 hours.
water 4 minutes every 2 hours. depending how hot it is where you are may be 4 mins 1 time per hour. what you want to do is just wet the roots, but not to long more shorter floods are better than less longer floods. keep p.h 5.5-6.2 and you should see what ever you grow take off real fast. other than that you look like you have a nice system on the go.
I have black slip on insulation for the clear plastic tubing. Thanks for the tip on burying the nutrient reservoir. What is too warm ? How about too cold ? I will take your advice on the pumping schedule. How often do you need to renew the nutrient solution ?
anything over 75F is to warm, but as you are going to flood very little thats not to important because the roots are in lots of air to start with, but it will be better for the roots if they are below 75F. change the netrents itsup to you some ppl just use the top up method. they just add P.H'ed water to the tank every day or so watch the p.h and ajust the amount of feed they need if the C.F falls they add a bit more feed if it rises the dont add feed just ph'ed water is added.
i would my self change the water once a week for best results,and allways if the plants look a bit sick. i dont use them nutes so im not sure? bear in mind they are more than likely made for the cannabis market as its big bissness, but they can be used in all crops grown some time you need more nutes some times less depends on what you are growing? tomatos would be about the same as cannabis in nute needs where lettice would need less.
if the tank CF-PH keeps jumping around, a bigger tank is your best bet as it acts as a buffer it will more than likely rise in CF because of evaporation and that will make the salts build up rasing the CF value, you should never need to add nutes to the tank so long as the CF never falls when just adding ph'ed water to top off so every day you only need to add ph'ed water until the CF falls then its a good time to make a new bach of nutes .
water at 72F can hold 1/3 the oxygen as water at 68F. over 75 and it is in the range where root rot pathogens like to grow and that is why (he said) air would help if ur temps are high; because air kills water borne/anerobic pathogens like root rot.
Thanks for sharing this :) .. I have a question: does the liquid solution enters to the pipe by one side and get outs the pipe by the other side? I mean, does the solution is re-circulating or you fill the pipe and then you turn off the pump and turns on again when the tube has not enough solution ?
Solution enters all three tubes via a pvc header. A overflow tube resides in the last tube. So, fluid fills up all three tubes but only circulates in the last tube. Will be interesting to see if plants in the last tube fair better due to "fresher nutrient" solution. I have no way of knowing if the tubes are full at this time. Plan to pump for 30 minutes, then off for a hour or so.
found the post jackets at Lowes. 4X4X100 are $22.00 The pvc drain tubes I used were 12' long and cost $7.00 I still may try out the square stuff if I have any luck with what I'm using now.. Thanks.
Try ~>Growzay's Hydro-Wave System<~
growzay's1966@yahoo.com
**Developed in Humboldt**
SIDEWINDERable 9 months ago
If you were just using this system alone without any other electrical usage... what would the cost of it turn out to be per month? jw. unless you dont know
darktard 9 months ago
Hey man I knwo this is way to late but i am going to use your project with your permission if you don't mind because i think i can improve it by just adding 1 more tube to dispense the water in the bucket faster which should take down the water flow about an inch or so if i placce one drain in the center and the other in the mid back using the same pump with more water in the bucket
Kreamer192 10 months ago
hidroponics in the woods.... FAIL !!!
bodypiercing1989 10 months ago
I'd drill holes in the top near the end caps and just drop the supply into the holes and you wouldn't need the seals. put a 4" to 3" bell reducer4 on the other end to always hold a little water in case of pump failure. I'd place my tank under the end where it would drain right into the tank.
arkbilly 11 months ago
I'd drill holes in the top near the end caps and just drop the supply into the holes and you wouldn't need the seals. put a 4" to 3" bell reducer4 on the other end to always hold a little water in case of pump failure.
arkbilly 11 months ago
HEHAW!!!!!!! WE DOGGIE!!!!!
TheHomeGarden 1 year ago
on your far left side of your pipes the drainage how did you make it are they conected to each other or is ith the same fork on the right side?
bobster8z 1 year ago
show us your product inside the contraption!!!!!!!!!!!
knoxville504 1 year ago
i like to have the drain hose to be about twice as thick as the fill hose then it should not over flo
megagrower1 1 year ago
i reccomend anybody to try building a horizontal growing hydroponic aeroponic/system. Take a large round plastic trash can and drill lot of 50mm holes for net pots and you can fit hudreds for microherb productions and design a spray line for the interior and mount it higher than the sperate resovoir to ensure it drain and returns to you're res. It kind of like a aeroponic strawberry growing barrel that will grow hundred of horizontal small plants like strawberries.
1982FMJ 1 year ago
I have a question. Wouldn't you want to mat up or cement your floor to prevent contamination and such?
Cloud9er 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
nice video check out my channel
DesertHydroponics 1 year ago
I heard you say you were in FL. Do you grow during the hot summers and if so, which type of vegetable plants tolerate the heat?
Mike82ARP 1 year ago
hey yall im gonna build one a these any tips? if so message me!!!
countryboy2210 1 year ago
you can use the rubber end caps with pipe clamps from home depot
BUMP3303 1 year ago
Use rubber caps w/ hose clamps at the ends for ease of maintenance.☺
TheTropicali 2 years ago
look, if u pumped water into a tube that is the same diameter as the 3 flood tables, then had 3 leads connecting it you would therefore bypass your restriction problem
brianstone92 2 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Cool idea. I had been looking into different systems to build and I ended up using multiple methods in different systems. Feel free to check out my videos to see what I came up with.
MokuPueo 2 years ago
Couldn't you plum the tubes together so that they were all technically one tube. Put the pump at the beginning, it would fill the first pipe and flow into the second, then into the third. Use a cheap christmas light timer to turn the pump on and off. It'll fill the pipes, turn off, and the liquid would drain away into the reservoir
TryforApples 2 years ago
Yes, I think you could flow from one pipe to the next... I was concerned about draining the pipes as much as possible during my original constructions (O2 for the roots)... but leaving some water standing in the system seems to work for me. I cycle too often for a standard light timers.
Dave
davetidwell 2 years ago
I hear an external pump helps keep the temp. down some. I plan on some type of aeration system also,either spray jets or compressor. Thanks for sharing!
primstuff 11 months ago
Still not underway with this project. Been several months now. Keep having to change things around. Nothing seems to be going Like I have it pictured in my mind. Suppose I should draw a diagram. Like davetidwell, I keep trying. With any luck I'll be growing in a few weeks. Sprouting some lettuce and spinach seeds now. Geting to cold S. Calif. L.A area. May have to wait 'till spring or build a greenhouse like dave's. worried about water temp. Is'nt this a fun way to spend retirement.
wabbywab 2 years ago
If you go for a plastic cover, as others have suggested, consider spending the money to purchase UV protected plastic. Suppose to last for several years.
Dave
davetidwell 2 years ago
'hardest part is getting the plastic out' ...Just hold it with a needle nose and put the drill in reverse.....
j10stretch 2 years ago
very nice system, how long do you run the water pump and how often?
TheHealingCannabis 2 years ago
I run the pump just long enough to fill up the tubes. The time depends on pump capacity. The outside system uses a 12vdc sump pump rated at 350 gph and it takes one minute to fill the system. I cycle the pump on every 20 minutes around the clock.
davetidwell 2 years ago
hey,where did you put the christmas tree. you used the "christmas tree" tote for your reservoir
dwiggs77 2 years ago
Dave those SDR-35 class sewer pipes are not "light tight"you need to paint them or cover them with something black so you dont grow algae inside.
you probably already done that since this was filmed in January huh
dwiggs77 2 years ago
Well, I never entertained the idea that light would penetrate the pvc pipe... I shut the system down last weekend and did not notice any algae in the pvc, but some evidence on the plastic tubing going to m pump. See hydro13. Thanks for the tip.
davetidwell 2 years ago
Dave, my son and I have built similar tubular and square systems. To make things easier for cutting the holes, we found that pre-drilling the holes with a drill bit WITHOUT the 3 inch first will help. Next we proceeded to enter the drill bit with the 3" cutter, BUT instead of drilling in a RIGHT turn using the cutting edges, we cut in a LEFT and this CUT SMOOTHER EDGES. Ernie of Oceanside California
join4success 2 years ago
Ernie, interesting info... I plan to use 4" post covers for next earthbox project (water reservoir) which will require drilling some circular holes. I'll try the counter clockwise approach.. Thanks
davetidwell 2 years ago
i've also heard of using "vinyl fence posts". Mating caps are available alongside.
MTEXX2 2 years ago 2
This comment has received too many negative votes show
Yip ee I O red necker, yeee ip yeee ip
Goldwing777777 2 years ago
make it EZ 4" plactic guter is ez er. lava rock in the guter and 4" pots, Grow in lava rock. I use it and it weks.
fastcap123 2 years ago
Wow the beginning of your video reminds me of the movie the blair witch project..
nectarineblue 2 years ago 4
Have you seen thepvc pipes the use for fencing.?you can get them at home depot. they are 4"square by 6'. they cost about $14.00 each.can you give me the reason why you don't want to use pvc.
jlhappytoes 2 years ago
he IS using PVC tho dude.
CakesPix 2 years ago
You might want to think about offsetting the holes. This would give you more room for your plants to grow and not on top of each other.
prokidsco 2 years ago
Good idea, Thanks....
davetidwell 2 years ago
aye. we see the holes really close together too. maybe he plans small cultivars. but otherwise, good to watch for air flow around plants. crowded conditions breed disease because foliage does not dry.
CakesPix 2 years ago
Comment removed
blowjoe1996 2 years ago
Comment removed
blowjoe1996 2 years ago
Comment removed
blowjoe1996 2 years ago
you would still need to top off the nutes every day or so what ever method you use what you are aming for is the CF or PPM stay the same with each top off that means the plants are taking all that they need if the CF or parts PPM falsl the plants can take a bit more if it rises the are using more water than nutes so back off and just use ph'ed water, may be empty the tank and refill with less nutes. once you get the feed tank constant CF-PH stable you know your feeding the plants the best u can
blowjoe1996 2 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
under feeding = yellowish lower leafs
over feeding= brown burn/rust spots and very dark green leafs.
allways use less nutes is better than over feeding.
join a cannabis growing community even if you dont aggre with it your self, but its a plant and i tell you you will not be short of millions of friendly hydroponic experts who will help you no matter what you are growing be it food, flowers or cannabis no one knows more aout hydro than a cannabis grower LOL.
blowjoe1996 2 years ago
sorry about the "Comment removed by author " i just put them in order of posting so it would make a bit more sense for you, if it makes any at all? LOL. hydro is not hard to master after 1 or 2 crops you will be growing like a pro.
blowjoe1996 2 years ago
nice to have the same PPM except u can't. PPM only measures solids, it does not tell u WHAT solids are in there. so if ur strain is using more calcium than the last strain then very quickly ur solids will be out of proportion to each other.
the way everyone does it is u add plain water to top up until u have added an amount that is equal to the original volume of nute water. ex: ur res is 10 gallons of nute water? so top off with plain until u have added 10 of plain, then empty, start over.
CakesPix 2 years ago
tip for you grow a plant in soil next to your hydro system to compare what it should look like i.e how green the plant is if it yellows it needs more of the grow nute because it can take more N (nitrogen) the yellowing can also mean the P.H is out of range also, thats why the ph is so important if its in the correct range you will have no problems at all. its not how much nutes you use because the plants will do well usin 1/2 strenght feed its down to the ph thats where its at.
blowjoe1996 2 years ago 2
to cold anything below 50F keep it in 60-70 for grate results
blowjoe1996 2 years ago
make sure you cover the clear upvc feeder tube or you will get green algae growing in them, use masking tape to block out the light. also sink the res in the ground to help keep the water cooler. if the water gets to warm it can not hold air and your roots will die. tell me do you have an over flow pe going back to the res? also you are going over the top on the water schedule you are better off less water more time than more water for longer. ie 4 mins 1 once every 2 hours.
blowjoe1996 2 years ago
water 4 minutes every 2 hours. depending how hot it is where you are may be 4 mins 1 time per hour. what you want to do is just wet the roots, but not to long more shorter floods are better than less longer floods. keep p.h 5.5-6.2 and you should see what ever you grow take off real fast. other than that you look like you have a nice system on the go.
blowjoe1996 2 years ago
Using Liquid Earth three part system with Grow, Vigor, and Bloom components. Do you have any experience with this stuff ?
davetidwell 2 years ago
must be a typo. no one waters only 4 minutes.
CakesPix 2 years ago
ok u are a little overpicky there cakes cause many people water for 5 minutes.
CakesPix 2 years ago
I have black slip on insulation for the clear plastic tubing. Thanks for the tip on burying the nutrient reservoir. What is too warm ? How about too cold ? I will take your advice on the pumping schedule. How often do you need to renew the nutrient solution ?
davetidwell 2 years ago
anything over 75F is to warm, but as you are going to flood very little thats not to important because the roots are in lots of air to start with, but it will be better for the roots if they are below 75F. change the netrents itsup to you some ppl just use the top up method. they just add P.H'ed water to the tank every day or so watch the p.h and ajust the amount of feed they need if the C.F falls they add a bit more feed if it rises the dont add feed just ph'ed water is added.
blowjoe1996 2 years ago
i would my self change the water once a week for best results,and allways if the plants look a bit sick. i dont use them nutes so im not sure? bear in mind they are more than likely made for the cannabis market as its big bissness, but they can be used in all crops grown some time you need more nutes some times less depends on what you are growing? tomatos would be about the same as cannabis in nute needs where lettice would need less.
blowjoe1996 2 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
if the tank CF-PH keeps jumping around, a bigger tank is your best bet as it acts as a buffer it will more than likely rise in CF because of evaporation and that will make the salts build up rasing the CF value, you should never need to add nutes to the tank so long as the CF never falls when just adding ph'ed water to top off so every day you only need to add ph'ed water until the CF falls then its a good time to make a new bach of nutes .
blowjoe1996 2 years ago
water at 72F can hold 1/3 the oxygen as water at 68F. over 75 and it is in the range where root rot pathogens like to grow and that is why (he said) air would help if ur temps are high; because air kills water borne/anerobic pathogens like root rot.
CakesPix 2 years ago
it loses 1/3. sorry.
CakesPix 2 years ago
actually could have been the other way. loses a third or only holds a third. can't remember now i guess. double sorry.
CakesPix 2 years ago
Thanks for sharing this :) .. I have a question: does the liquid solution enters to the pipe by one side and get outs the pipe by the other side? I mean, does the solution is re-circulating or you fill the pipe and then you turn off the pump and turns on again when the tube has not enough solution ?
quauhtlimtz 2 years ago
Solution enters all three tubes via a pvc header. A overflow tube resides in the last tube. So, fluid fills up all three tubes but only circulates in the last tube. Will be interesting to see if plants in the last tube fair better due to "fresher nutrient" solution. I have no way of knowing if the tubes are full at this time. Plan to pump for 30 minutes, then off for a hour or so.
davetidwell 2 years ago
I got the idea from other pvc greenhouse videos. Nothing growing yet...
Time will tell.
davetidwell 2 years ago
you can get the square from lowes it is called a viynle post jacket
greenseahydroponics 2 years ago
Thanks for the tip. Next trip to lowes I'll look it up.
davetidwell 2 years ago
I also build systems and i put my manifold on the in caps i get the rubber garments for it at and auto parts store
greenseahydroponics 2 years ago 2
found the post jackets at Lowes. 4X4X100 are $22.00 The pvc drain tubes I used were 12' long and cost $7.00 I still may try out the square stuff if I have any luck with what I'm using now.. Thanks.
davetidwell 2 years ago
Great job on the system, and the video. I look forward to seeing the final product. Hats off.....GO NOLES!!
JungleJam007 2 years ago