Added: 3 years ago
From: mars1952
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  • @lynel1985 I may be wrong but aren't these engines direct injected? In that case the air fuel mixture isn't traveling through that intake its just air, so the less turbulence the faster you can get the air in there right?

  • Good video, there's plenty of "that's what she said" moments in there. Lol

  • just like when u polish the inside of your intake in the big block out back....more air faster, smoother, quicker....then ur doin wheelies...before emissions it was a air filter on the carb no long intake tubes....anyways curious to see how this worked for you got the same truck going on looking for MPG diesel is $4.59 in PA

  • @freestylemxer7c Hi: It is hard to say for certain but when the truck was new I got about 13MPG on cruise control at highway speeds of 65-75MPH now I am getting 15MPG. That is with a Tymer intake, 4" turbo back exhaust an X-wheel and polished Y/H pipe. I just replaced the recall gray CPS with an original black CPS and got back 1MPG. You should google 7.3L original black CPS to get more info.

    Mars

  • @freestylemxer7c All the pitting inside pipes is caused by aftermarket air filters using a mesh/cotton & oil design. They are much smaller in terms of surface area so the holes need to be 10 times bigger, which allows dirt in. Wait until you see what they do to a turbo turning at high RPM. Paper filters are way oversized and don't degrade every few months. The BoyRacer market is a multimillion pound industry based on lies as that's what sales people do best! Learn about engines FIRST !

  • @urbex2007 You are somewhat confused about air filter technology and the damage done by small particles entering the air intake. The pits and bumps on the 'Y" pipe are casting artifacts. If small particles entered the air stream they would wear things smooth not create pits. Since this video was made I switched to a Tymar type air filter.

  • I'm curious why you polished the intake side. Noob

  • have you guys seen the price on deisel!! 0__o

  • Smart idea! Every little bit helps, especially when diesel is @ $4 a gallon and more.

  • ok i see the whole idea of the better flow there is reasons that turbos are port/polished but on a forced induction the gain is minimal but there is a reason that the ats ones are machined out ant our biggest enemy in any engine is friction friction=heat heat=loss of energy so there is two sides but if you wanna do all that to increase mpg more power to ya anything we can do to keep the use of that devil diesel at 390 a gallon down

  • click click on 1:33

  • you will have a larger velocity of air moving through those pipes if you left the casting. thats why when you port and polish a cylidner head, you only polish the exhaust side. when you have casting, the air travels OVER the low spots and has less drag.

  • @automotiveDIY Hi: I would like to know where you learned that, I don't think that it is true. Every irregularity in a tube that moves air will cause an increase in static pressure and cause turbulence. That is why intakes and exhausts are mandrel bent to give smooth radius's. If leaving the rough castings on the intake is superior to polished then it would be superior in the exhaust as well. If rough was better then you would see a raft of after market products that are roughened inside.

    Mars

  • @mars1952 having a rough surface is only good for helping to trip the boundry layer that is formed around an external object such as an airplane wing when moving through a fluid such as air. Tripping the boundry layer further behind will decrease the pressure gradient. This decrease in the pressure gradient is what makes cars more aerodynamic. So having rough intake ports does more harm than good, any CFD software will show this.

  • @mars1952 have to agree. The theory states though that you shouldnt polish the inlet ports as the rough parts cause turbulance, which gives a better air fuel mixture, the more even the mixture the leaner you can run more safely and also use higher compression without the need to overfuel to cool the combustion temps. In theory its good but your unlikley to need this turbulance on a production car because the shpe and size of the port will do more then leaving some rough casting in place.

  • @mars1952

    He wants to speak about to control turbulences when creating a non mirror finish surface.

    quite rough like a 80 finish grit.

    you will have a laminar flow if you create a such finish.

    it allow you to create tiny turbulences on the surface of the manifold to allow the flow to slide on those turbulences.

    you sacrifice a bit of the flow (the part touching the manifold) to allow a better flowing at the center of the section.

    you use the viscosity of the air

    i

  • it works very well.

    all the guys porting "street" heads do that nowadays.

    

  • @automotiveDIY When working on Carbed or TBI engines then you are correct that you don't polish the intake side but your reasoning is off slightly. The reason is that it helps to atomize the fuel better. Here's an experiment you can do to prove it.. Take a clean mirror and a piece of coarse sand paper. Put a couple drops of gasoline on the mirror and blow on the gas. You will notice that it simply runs off. Do the same to the sand paper. It evaporates. Diesels or port inj. you polish everything

  • @automotiveDIY i have a 1995 powerstroke diesel can i adapted a intercoller for my truck !??? i hope i can do jejeje

  • will the superduty y or spider intake pipe work on an obe truck if someone was to install a superduty intercooler on an obs truck?

  • @justwatchin151 Hi: Sorry I don't know if will fit on an OBS engine.

    Mars

  • @justwatchin151 yes but you need a early 99 spyder. it has the smaller diameter spyder.

  • @justwatchin151 yes but you need the early 99 spyder or "y-pipe as he refers to it" it is the only one that'll fit the 0bs without doing superduty manifolds and the GTP-38

  • @justwatchin151 Yes it will work but you have to change everything else with it... up-pipes, turbo, spyder, plenums etc... Can't just change the spyders...

  • if you want to modify that piece for better milege........ditch that aluminum piece for the plastic one. you got all this intercooled air traveling thru an engine temp aluminum y pipe. air IS BEING HEATED AGAIN. i think banks was the one selling them

  • How is this going to increase MPG? Its fuel injected. Its not going to increase turbo pressure. It may slightly increase air flow, but I doubt it would be noticeable. I would be curious to see your fuel log before and after polishing.

  • honestly, you're better running with the factory silicone hoses for your CAC tubes. the oil seepage is completely normal.

  • nice videos man! thumb up!

  • the cores they use in those castings are rough

  • That pitting on the inside of the tubes is caused by using products like K&N elements and induction kits. That's how it sandblasts the inside of everything and ruins the turbo and engine. The K&N does NOT filter, it has a small surface area, stick to paper elements as they pass more air than the engine can use.

  • Hi urbex2007: You are mistaken. The defects inside the turbo y pipe are casting artifacts. The video is low resolution and doesn't  show enough detail for you to see. Anyway, I rebuilt my first engine about 10 years before you were born and I know what I am talking about.

    Mars

  • @mars1952 hey is from the UK any way mars, how would he know about american diesels when they have minis over there lol.

  • @mars1952 Respectfully, while you are right about the casting flaws. The K&N and other washable type filters, due to the volume of air moved by the 7.3L and other diesels, do not filter small enough. The engine will get damaged over time.

  • @urbex2007, You're the typical jackass know nothing. shut up and let the big boys talk. Cast manifolds have those artifacts. I've run washable filters for years and never had an issue. If you know what you're doing (which it seems you dont..) you shouldn't have trouble with a K&N or other oiled filter in normal street conditions, in the desert for desert racing or on the beach, you should run a pre-filter. I prefer to run a canned filter with a thick foam pre-filter. Otherwise use a filter sock

  • @urbex2007 wrong, that is how they are from factory. this is coming from a 6 year Ford diesel technican

  • @urbex2007 Casting

  • what about using some sort of felxible extentiton?

  • Hey those clamps are for letting the boot blow off under major boost conditions. If you got a stock turbo theres nothing to worry about.

  • hey the reason you should use the "worm" style claps is incase you overboost. they will allow the line to pop off and allow blow by.

  • it would be easier to get better gas mileage with a custom intake(afe), a new 5inch pipe and a chip

  • Just to let you know- "polishing" intake tubes on a Naturally aspired engine has benefits as the engine is drawing the air in so the air "rides" along the tubes without being interrupted by the casting imperfections. A turbocharged engine, due to there being pressure, the air does not benefit like an NA engine will from a port and polish job. Nevertheless, you did a fine job cleaining it up. Kudos to you

  • ok im a dumbass sorry to ask this but how does the intercooler work on a engine?

  • The intercooler cools the air after it is compressed by the turbo. Cooling the air makes it more dense so more can be packed into the cylinder and the cooled intake air lowers the Exhaust Gas Temp.

    Mars

  • oh really wow i did not know that thanks!

  • If you will put a small bend in the CAC tube it will not blow off. Bent the lip, slip the hose and clamp on and tighten it. Easy, simple trick. Good Luck!

  • Why not coat the inner area of the "Y" with a product similar to glyptal?

  • Hi Djabby:

    I googled glyptal and all I got was that it is a brand name. I think that anything used to coat the inside of the Y pipe might come off and make it's way into the cylinders. That would be bad. I am not worried about the inside oxidizing since it will be coated with oil from the crankcase gases.

    mars

  • you should have just kept that foil off it looks alot cleaner and you can hear your turbo alot more in the cab its there just for the sound in the cab most of us diesel fans love the sound of the turbo

  • Unfortunately, the units are pricey @ 12K per unit. My Dad has talked the guy into experimenting with running pure waste oil with the HHO to see what emissions output is. What made you go with sodium hydroxide over potassium hydroxide for your catalyst mix? I await you next posting eagerly!

  • Hi BoodHipster: Thanks for the encouragement.

    I have used Mobil Delvac 1 synthetic in the engine and Mobil 1 synthetic in the rest of the drive train since the truck was new. I talked to Mobil tech service about running their oil in my truck longer than 5000 miles and they told me that since the Powerstroke has the high pressure oil pump injection system the anti foaming agent is used up by 5000 miles. So I change every 5000 miles. Continues

  • Continued 1200 liters/hr equals 20 LPM. I hope to soon have a 20LPM system that can be built for less than $1000 including the second alternator to run it.

    I use NaOH because that is what they had at Lowes and I didnt want to wait for KOH to come in the mail. NaOH seems to work OK and I havent seen any work that shows that KOH is better than NaOH. Baking soda breaks down at a low temp and put out CO2. It also turns the electrolyte brown and crude builds up in the cell.

    Mars

  • Hmmmm, well at least you are using some form of a synthetic though I'm not personally a fan of Mobil 1 and the other big name parts store synthetics since I found out the difference between "full" synthetic and "pure" synthetic. The "full" synthetics like Mobil 1, Valvoline, Castrol, Quaker State, etc., are actually conventional oil with 40%-60% synthetic "additive". The additive usually ends up being Napthan(spelling?)a petroleum wax.

  • The only "pure" synthetics that I know of are Red Line, Amsoil and Lucas. There are probably more, just not sure what they are. "Full" synthetic is a govt regulated term so the manufacturers can still market their product as a synthetic product. Yeah, I know, I'm sounding preachy, but I've taken the time to research this topic so I see no problem in sharing what I know. With the bypass system I referenced, you replace the fines filter as it plugs up and top off.

  • Amsoil states that the replacement oil you add(usually a quart or two) after a filter change contains enough stocks and detergents to replace what has worn out during normal engine wear. Thus extending oil life to 25-40K miles before a total oil change is necessary. I usually just check the fines filter after 5 mins of operation and see if the bottom of the filter is cold or not. If it is, the filter is filling with fines and should be replaced soon.

  • The beautiful part is that with your HHO, the fine particulate matter that gets into the oil should virtually disappear as you are achieving a more complete burn. You have an E4-OD trans in that, I find that they aren't the best trans. but they benefit from from running synthetic also. Cheers! When's the next vid?

  • I had this installed on a 2001 Dodge 3500 w/5.9L Cummins and a Kobelco 150 excavator. Recently installed on my Yanmar B-50 excavator. Shouldn't be an issue to find a dealer in your area. Also, in some of my research, I have come across a gentleman in Minnesota whom my Dad is in regular contact with. He makes very large HHO generators for semi trucks. They are producing 1200 liters an hour and the trucks are getting 20-35% increases on the highway and 70-80% increases at idle.

  • On a personal note, I recommend installing an Amsoil Dual Bypass Filter kit and the Remote Filter relocator plate(so you can install the Bypass plate anywhere on the truck)and running their new formulation 15-40(or the newest 5-40, depending on your climate) diesel oil. I have found that my engines all run cooler and the oil in a diesel motor stays clean for about 25K miles w/the dual bypass.

  • Dude, this is the most entertaining and informative video I have seen for awhile. I am honestly on the edge of my seat to see what your performance numbers are with the bolt-ons, plug-ins and HHO. I don't know your level of interest in all of this, but you might consider picking up a Diesel Power magazine for some other ideas. I am really tickled that you are doing all this to a 7.3L because I have found that the later 6.0L engines are kind of crappy. The jury is still out on the 6.4L.

  • From my understanding a mirror finish on the intake side is not desirable. The satin finish you did is close to perfect for the intake side. It should be smooth but not a mirror finish on the intake side. Great work.

  • Did u notice any difference??

  • I can hear the turbo spin up now but I put on the 5" exhaust at the same time. On my first test run I blew of the drivers side inter-cooler hose when I hit about 3200rpm in first gear (scared to poo out of me) . The hoses are suppose to stay on up to 50psi when single clamped. In later tests using an OBDII diagnostic program my max MAP was 21psi so I don't think that I exceeded 50psi when the hose blew. I can only guess that I didn't have the clamp tight enough.

    mars

  • HHO! nice vid

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