Added: 2 years ago
From: chefigo
Views: 140,218
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  • all hondas have locktite on the crank bolts. the proper torque for the crank bolt is 180 ftlbs. never use a torque wrench to break a bolt loose. they're for tightening!

  • @93hbcivicsi also, now that you used heat on the bolt, i hope you replaced your crank seal.

  • NEVER use a torque wrench for that!!! Just a work of advice

  • impact wrench. worth every penny

    

  • nice

  • i acualy welded 1/4 in wall pipe onto that too to make it easeiest.. mine is about 3ft long.

  • Pre '90 Hondas don't have the hex cutout in the pulley, so unless you have a high torque impact the do it youselfer is screwed. Why the hell does Honda torque the damn bolts so tight?

  • good video!!! thanks a lot guys.

  • Propane doesn't usually do the job. MAPP gas is almost twice as hot - near 2000 degrees F hotter. It gets in and gets the job done. But do beware, rubber seals can be affected in the vicinity. But again, the MAPP gas doesn't have to be on as long, thus, the heat is more directed for a shorter time. Get that hot bolt out and quench it with some water. Just my two cents.

  • Thanks for the post! I tried the starter method first, but that didn't work. I did it the same way and it worked great!

  • Hope u replaced the seal !! Heat is not good for seals !! Just a tougt!

  • I think a torque wrench is not suposed to be used to remove bolts.. its to "torque" bolts, correct me if i am wrong.

  • Hmm, I used the Honda tool attached to a 2-ft breaker bar braced against the floor and a second 2-ft breaker bar to break the bolt loose - came off in about 5 secs. This was done on an Acura Legend, but I can't imagine it being too much different on a 4-cyl Honda. I guess I'll find out when I do my CR-V in a week or so.

  • Too bad my civic has the smooth bore harmonic balancer, and can't use the special tool.

  • propane is no good for this job, it cant deliver enough heat quick enough!

    the timing belt cover is right behind the pulley so you dont want that to melt.

    rent a 3/4 inch electric impact gun........ suck that bolt straight out..... sweet as a nut...

  • Removing the crankshaft pulley bolt on the VTEC was such a PIA. I used a decent size 240V compressor with an impact wrench to no avail – sucker was too tight, exceeded the rating of my impact wrench! I ended up using an 6 foot cheater bar and jump on it for a few minutes before the bolt came loose with a popping sound. I figured the bolt came loose at more than 600 foot-pounds!

  • What tool is that holding the crank pulley while you where breaking the bolt loose.

  • @BBAC2006 It is the factory tool designed for this. I am not sure it has a specific name. I believe I bought it at Autozone. They wouldn't loan the tool to me, I had to buy it. Although, they do loan out other specialty tools. I think it was $26.

  • I used one impact wrench with 950 foot-pound torque, and I could not get it losse. Then, I follow your method, and still took me hours to get it off. Thanks very much for posting.

  • there r seals and bearings behind that pully so if ya dont have to use gas u probably shouldnt and if ya do u should replace seals and bearings

  • @mnsnoman The flame is just concentrated on the bolt only. I could touch the pulley with my hand - it was barley hot. Probably gets hotter when the engine is running.

  • shoulda just used the starter to take it off..faster and much easier!!!

  • @cwbell63801 Tried it, but it didn't work...it actually tightened it more. If the pulley was on the left side of the car (facing the car) it would work.

  • A torque wrench as a breaker bar??You have now tweaked you T/Wrench out of calibration...good job. Breaker bar with as little extensions as possible.....that long of extensions will wind up a quarter turn worth............(Twist)This is of course when you don't have access to a gun.

  • @RichardEllisxyz Well, I broke my Dad's 15 year old Craftsman torque wrench...then I just used a 1/2 socket wrench with a long metal tube extender on it. It was sad since he had had it for so long. I bought him a 250 ft/lds wrench to replace it.

  • legend bro, i jus done ths trick but i used a 3 ft pole n it cracked, iv been trying fo 3days to get the bolt off, next mission: gettn the pulley off

  • I found a better and more easier way to do it. (by the way excuse my language im swedish). I have a small compressor and this tool you use when you remove the tires. Looks like a gun. The trick is to use cooling spray, i found one in my garage for loosening rusty screws and nuts. And i empty the whole can on the crankshaft bolt and i went off very easy. I couldnt get it loose at first but after the cooling spray it was easy. So try it next time :)

  • wow i just use my breaker bar and my ingersol rand titanium impack and buz it off

  • by a real impact gun and it comes off no prob

  • In the video the young man commented that they used propane to heat the crank screw. The canister clearly shown in the video was the color yellow which means it was not propane, but instead, MAP gas which burns much hotter than propane. You will need to buy the MAP gas to get the Screw hot enough for removal.

  • also we had to apply PB blaster.

  • We did the same, but we used a 3/4 ratchet with some extensions and a 3/4 to 1/2 reducer to the socket. I had to climb on the brake bar and apply my weight (210 lbs) to loosen it up. How do you pull the pulley from the car?

  • I just wanted to let you know that you saved me. I bought a bigger impact wrench, 650Ft-Lbs. A bigger air compressor, Bigger air lines. Nothing broke the bolt. Watched your video. Then with 30" of extensions, a 24" breaker bar and a 10' cheater bar. The 10' cheater bar was rotated through an arc of about 110 degrees twisting the extensions until the bolt broke free. I put the extension inside a pipe in case they exploded. Fortunately everything survived.

  • For one..LocTiting a crankshaft pulley bolt is a *good* idea. I don't think the Honda service literature explicitly forbids it, it's generally good practice for anything that fastens to a rotating component - pulleys flywheels etc. As far as overtightening goes, crankshaft bolts with extra-thick hardened washers are made to lock down tight and not come out -- 3/4" gun rips 'em right out.

  • The best tool for this job is a Torque multiplier ,They are normally used for removing wheel lug nuts on trucks...most are capable of producing at least 3000 Lbs/ft of torque...The one I used has a safe working load of 3500 lbs/ft of torque,much higher than any air impact wrench.Be sure to use an impact socket for extra strength.

  • what do u do to get it back on?

  • never use a torque wrench to break bolts loose, that's what a breaker bar is for. torque wrenches are only to apply final torque to a bolt to bring it to spec when tightening.

  • love it....you knew what you had to do, and you did it....looks like dad is your able assistant....perfect

  • Now that what I call a breaker bar lol

  • I used a deep socket 19 mm, a 5 inch extension + 10 inch extension, a breaker bar and a 4 foot pipe - no torch needed. Came off easy enough, and in fact getting this bolt off was the easiest part of the doing the timing belts, for me. Just be careful about what the other breaker bar or whatever you have securing the special tool, is doing. You want it to get crammed into the ground nice and secure and not against the hub or something where lines and abs wires and all that exist.

  • Thanks guys! My son and I used your "jackstand/6 foot pipe" set-up on a breaker bar and it worked like a charm! We couldn't believe it was that tight.

  • What would you recommend I do if there is no tool available to help remove the bolt, the starter method didn't work and a 650lbs impact gun only spins the motor. Should a get a bucket of gas and burn my truck or buy a new motor.

  • get a IR air Gun and Compressor

  • Where exactly do you heat the bolt with the torch right on the head?

  • where did you find this tool ?

  • @lostnalone87 Amazon sells it for 27 bucks, free shipping.

  • I got it at Autozone.

  • to losen the crankshaft bolt on toyota pick up is clockwise or counterclockwise..anibory knows

  • I tried a propane torch, as in this video, on my 91 accord with a 5 ft. piece of pipe with no success. I then resorted a week later to use an oxy-acetyline torch, but had to apply heat, impact wrench, heat, impact,etc., ect., ect. until it finally released. Every case is different but this one was pretty difficult.

  • Yeah i dont understand what posses people to use a torque wrench as a breaker bar... what else did you break?

  • Tried the impact (Auto 1/2 inch); tried a tire iron and the crank-over technique; the only thing that worked was a 6 foot pipe -&- heating it with a propane torch. Used this technique once before when removing a rear axle on an old Ford after returning newly bent tire Irons to the store -&- and after some help from an old farmer. An industrial - power tool I'm sure could break it; but for auto repairs most people don't own diesel mechanic tools...

  • Amusing to hear people saying they used a "torque wrench". I would never use a torque wrench to break loose a crank pulley bolt. I would use a breaker bar and if I had to, a cheater bar. I've had to when loosening one on an Accord.

  • I hope i have some luck with a 94 accord replacing the belt. I ordered an Aircat 1100ft tq impact but have no holding tool yet and i was hoping with this impact gun and a 60 gallon 125psi compressor, it might work (crossing fingers here). I hear too many horror stories on honda crankshaft pulley bolts :(

  • Nice video..after many attempts with ratchets(breaking one in the process), breaker bars and long cheater pipes failed..i finally got myself a torch and with 2 attempts the bolt came right off..thanks

  • father and son. nice, good job

  • it the ratchet on the pulley remover a napa ratchet? cuz i have one almost exactly like it and its my favorite ratchet

  • It's the fat washer that corrodes onto the harmonic ballancer and the bolt. This corrosion combined with a large contact surface area is what makes this bolt hard to crack loose. The solution that is the fastest and most convenient is to heat the washer quickly using an oxy-aceltaline torch even just on one side till it's red and then hit it with an impact gun and then dump the bolt (washer and all) into water. Done. I also put the Harmonic Ballancer in water too to protect the rubber.

  • you need a good windy gun lol

  • ima have to go threw this tomorrow i think i droped a bolt where the timing belt is and it loosend it crazy :(

  • @dgl1962 no it won't....... that little torch doesn't get that hot to damage crank seal. Prior to getting to the seal, you have the crank pulley itself, and the sprocket. So the heat never really reaches the seal. Ur only warming the bolt.

  • The factory manual actually suggests the bolt be tightened to 180 ft/lbs...I am reading it right now in my lap. The problem is if someone has put locktight on the bolt or overtightened it previously - some mechanics are not too careful about those things.

  • One thing I also recommend is that you throw a towel over the head of the wrench just in case the metal breaks. This would stop any shrapnel from flying around. Some metal pieces came close to my face when my torque wrench broke.

  • @chefigo should never use a torque wrench for removal of bolts you turd, that is what breaker bars are for.....

    some people just make me wanna....................arggg­ggggggggggghhhhhhhhh

  • @chefigo Yikes!

  • Oh i see, you ARE using a handle off your own floor jack, now that I see your handle is missing. Good. Then I don't need to spend $500 for a six-foot long breaker bar.

  • Ohh that breaker bar looks expensive. Not even my Pro Snap-on XT7100 1/2' impact can budge this sucker and it's 800 ft lbs. in reverse. Guess it's gonna be my breaker bar and a handle off a floor jack. Inventive idea with the jackstand!

  • yo man i did the same thing lol its funny cuz wuz the same lol !!!

  • /Nowt wrong with using Loctite, its done to prevent the bolt loosening (crankshaft resonance or "whip" can produce huge forces) With bolts like that it pays handsomely to use a 3/4" drive socket set. "Girlie" 1/2" drive socketry will often fail - even Britool or Snap-On. 3/4" drive plus a six foot scaffold pipe works wonders. If the bolt is torqued to 300 ft pounds and Loctited I'd guess that 500 foot pounds will be needed to remove it. Very few air wrenches will do this.

  • That bolt is torqued to at least 600 lbs. It ranges anywhere from 600-900 lbs.

  • Comment removed

  • @rufuspfl the crank pulley on my car is only torqued to 90 ft lbs, may want to update your range buddy. Thats the FSM spec.

  • @rufuspfl nahhhh lmfao its like 180ft-lbs dude, 600-900 is what it takes to get that bad boy off because it binds the threads together overtime, thus, making it tighter than it was originally torque down to.

  • U helped me alot m8.Gonna do my HR-V tommorow

  • You are the MAN -- Thank you for sharing this!!!

  • yeaaaah that heating the nut works greaaaat i had the some issue but as soon as i heated it with my torch baaaaam it came off quick!!!!!!!!!

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