Added: 4 years ago
From: hool10
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  • man your moving your filler rod alittle to much its a steady action bro like your weaving the filler into the joint..good job though and keep at it...the local 26 are always looking for good tig welders

  • you really got the ac going ha lol

  • Good video ^_^ @supernumber777 Hmu with a friend request I have some questions

  • The true beauty of the world is within the welder 

  • lÖl_âÑYØÑÈ_wÅñna_chÄt_wîth_mè_­Ì_fÊÊl_sö_lÖnËly_tØDãý~

  • I want to try this, have only done MIG...

  • Thank you so much for you reply.  What type of school?

    I didn't go to school..i learn it by experience and i don't think theres a school for

    quartz fabricator. To know what type of welding i am doing. just type quartz fabrication. I am think to swicth my welding to tig welding. thank you for your time.

  • @intltrade09 I went to a technical high school then a community college where this video was filmed 3 years ago.

  • Hello, I enjoyed watching your video. I am also a welder but, it's different type of welding. We're using quartz glass and we're also dark glasses or dark helmets.

    we used glass rods for welding using our two to three fingers to run the rods.

    this type of materials or parts are using in the silcon valley and using Hyrogen and oxygen. I have a 20 plus working experinces. Do you think i can adopt my skill to this type of skill?

    Thank you.

  • @intltrade09 I didn't even know you could repair glass like that. That sounds similar to Oxy-Acetylene welding (OAW) though. Schools start you off with that process when you first start welding then you upgrade to the electric arc with TIG. TIG is almost the same but you control the heat with a foot pedal, add filler wire, and keep a sharp tungsten rod close to the molten puddle. The tungsten provides the arc and if you touch the molten metal, it will stick to it and you have to re-grind it.

  • Hey dude! it is possible to weld a 4mm thick composite aluminum sheet? and both side of the composite sheet has the same texture quality? i would really appreciate if u could answer this question thanks!

  • I tried using helium and now I talk funny.

  • and btw are you using helium as sheilding gas?

  • @Sharmanmobile No you can't use just helium. You gotta use Argon 100% or mostly Argon and Helium for that extra heat and penetration. Nobody uses Helium though because it gets prohibitively expensive and you seek other alternatives to get a similar effect to using Helium. One is believe it or not, Hydrogen and they used that volatile stuff for the Hindenburg balloon.

  • my welding teacher says the frequency can melt cell phone SIM cards.

  • @Sharmanmobile Supposedly they can but I TIG weld with my cell phone in my pocket for years and never had a problem. Only time you would have a problem in my experience is a radio as it gets static when you use the high freq. My friend though has a more advanced smart phone and he says sometimes it does weird stuff.

  • he (or she) is welding aluminum

  • that guy looks like hes just practicing

  • tell me something,why sometimes the light emited in tig is blue and sometimes it looks like being white?

  • OK you can spark it, but where is the weld? Lets see the end product.

  • what are you welding on there? if its steel ur arc dont sound too right. but idk it just could b the camera.

  • Read the description. I was just practicing TIG welding in college at the time.

  • its AC welding on aluminum. it sounds like a damn electric shaver. i hate welding aluminum

  • Best video evar. Favourited.

  • i need to know if the light produced by tig welding is constant and it doesn´t flicker like stick welding?

  • It's constant.

  • @hool10 it dont flicker if your arc length remains the same

  • @theolkid It will if you are using a foot pedal.

  • I have been a machinist for 17 years and want to learn a new trade Inyour opinion would welding be a good choice with my background given that I could even find a job these days to go to

  • Yeah in my opinion a machinist should know how to weld and welders should know how to machine. They work so closely with one another that it's bound to happen. You need to have a lot of patience, a steady hand, and practice A LOT. I can't find a job close to a year now as a welder. I'm based out of MA (see my profile).

  • I agree, if I could learn a new trade to go along with welding it would be machining

  • you could probaley learn to pad weld in mig tig stick flat postion in about a yr and be competent at it

  • I have a DC arc generator and want to TIG with it to learn but cant do aluminum why is that and what will happen if you DC tig aluminum????

  • because you need ac current. because you would just burn right through it. ive tried it. dosent work to well. lol

  • Yea, try what rm80owner said hahaha. DC - in TIG is limited to ferrous metals like steel.

  • why does my tungston keep balling up ?

  • AC is for aluminum TIG welding and DC- is for anything else. If your using DC+, then the amperage is flowing from the work to the tungsten, like your stick welding.

  • yea I gather that it's like the fist thing you learn when you start on alloy.

    My issue is when im in AC welding alloy my tungston keeps balling up.

    One part of the wave is for the weld the other part cleans the alloy.. I think its cos the cleaning part of the ac wave is to long ?

  • the electrode should always ball up for aluminum. The inert gas needed to protect the material from oxygen dosen't work too well for tungsten steel.

  • For aluminum use a He/Ar mix. It gives you more pen due to the increased heat. But for REAL thin stuff I stick to Ar.

  • put a little weave in there make it interresting

  • What current magnitude is used for tig welding aluminium?

  • It's actually higher than steel. The aluminum acts as a heat sink. Usually it's around 150-200 Amps. It really varies though with the thickness.

  • OK thanks.

  • What would you recommend for 0.063 aluminum?

    Amps, tungsten size, filler size...

    I borrowed a Lincoln electric and I've gone through 2 bottles of argon and all I get is a nasty gray looking glob.

    I can MIG and stick weld. but this is boggling my mind.

  • Make sure the tungsten is clean and make sure you cleaned the surface prior to welding. You want to get a clean wire brush and really scrub the surface. .063 aluminum you want to use if possible a pulsed AC current. Pulsed creates less heat on thin objects. You also want to weld fast. Just mess around with the heat settings and don't have too much voltage.

  • Is it possible to achieve the dime stack look if I make individual spot welds giving enough cooling time in between? I'm already doing everything else you suggested.

  • It is possible but you have to let off the heat and have a larger filler wire diameter. It takes more heat to melt the thicker wire so you get that dime looking effect.

  • @cpu64 use helium argon mix.. 75%argon/25% helium. Try 1/16" orange tungsten, or 3/32" brown, green or orange... I like orange and brown.. they hold up longer... orange you will have to switch to eletro positive just to ball the tungsten if you are using 3/32" then back to ac to weld... be careful balling it in positive... it doesn't take much current to do it. and try 100-110 amps AC to weld. I like 3/32" filler but for smooth tight bead use 1/16" and feed that filler like crazy..haha

  • @carguy6699

    Actually, I am quite advanced in my TIG learning quest. I'm almost done with a complete Ghostbusters Proton pack done mostly in 1/16" aluminum. I am using pure Argon, and the red electrode with a sharp tip. Also running the welder on 110V and welding at 70A max on the pedal. No balling needed and it stays sharp the whole time. Never had any burn through problems, I have 100% puddle control and weld looks great. And very little rod needed too. I couldn't ask for better results :)

  • @cpu64 whatever works for you is great. So you are welding DC huh? You getting 100% pen? I just find that 75/25 gives awesome penetration and will weld really clean. it is very shiny when finished. 100% penetration no backing gas.when we want to make sure we have a very nice finish for our parts(they are A class X-ray tested, NO FLAWS) we will hook up a purge line of pure argon.. but still weld with 75/25 mix... red tungsten works good too.but orange and brown are my preference. AC it will ball

  • i am having problems with the foot pedal so do you let off the pedal as you make your way down the plate or what ?????? PLEASE HELP

  • Yeah you usually let off slowly towards the end. You also change it a tad in the middle of the weld as well. Kind of like driving a car.

  • You don't need pen on 1/8"?. You obviously never worked in the aircraft industry. Check out Hyde Detail you armature.

  • Your torch angle needs to be steeper. Your not gonna get the pen, and your gonna melt the rod to quick. it will probably look nice on top, but look at the back.

    Regards Wes.

  • I don't think you want penetration on 1/8" aluminum sheet metal.

  • You muppet !!

  • roll the cup

  • I go through the stick much faster then that, probably because Im new at TIG.

  • No, Aluminium TIG is faster paced welding process, if you're use to using the filler rod faster it will be better in the long run. If you have your amps too low you'll find yourself speeding up too much at the end of the run, because alum is highly conductive - it gets to hot. If you're faster, and have higher amps, you should be able to maintain the same pace through the run, because you're beating the heat through the plate.

  • yes if you have to low of amps it will all melt at the end and you wont know its coming it just turns to a big puddle of molten aluminum. aluminum is way different then steel!

  • Comment removed

  • Air cooled torches are the best for non-shop fabrication. The Miller Dynasty 200 series is an awesome little machine.

  • Even then I wouldn't recommend them. They are bulkier, and they get exremely hot. You know after a while those cups and so forth get worn out from all that heat. I would say to just get a water cooled torch.

  • yeah but water cooled torches are just a pain in the ass. plus you only need it to be water cooled if your doing thick shit. and yes, the miller dynasty 200 is a bitchin machine.

  • @cougarkid18 The only time I have encountered a non-water cooled torch is hooking up a torch to a SMAW only welding machine. The thing was bulky, had the stupid manual gas flow switch, and got hot.

  • @hool10  i got one

  • @cougarkid18 water cool allows you to run at 100% duty cycle too, not just higher amps

  • @cougarkid18 Why do people perpetuate this myth? What is a pain in the ass about water cooling? The cool torch handle? The comfort? The cost of water? I love it and use city water pressure. Why do all of the welding machine manufacturers offer water cooling? The public didnt like the wheel when it was invented either!

  • @CncObsession

    as I said I only would use it on thicker metal. Most of the time i'm welding thin guage pipe for turbo kits. But even if i'm welding intercoolers or radiators or water tanks I still don't like the water torch. Just my opinion. When I do weld aluminum I never run 100% all the time. I set my amps and fluctuate with the pedal. Aluminum gets hot and so does the torch, i just compensate by taking little breaks or changing the way I hold the torch cause it only gets hot near the nozzel

  • i can't mig for crying out loud

  • Me too. MIG is pretty much point and weld.. now TIG takes some getting used to. Prolly the hardest to weld with TIG (for me anyway) is aluminium.. if it is at all greasy or dirty at all it may refuse to fuse together which can become a major pain in the ass especially when the job your doing has to be presentable (no giant holes)

  • oh well i have never never tig welded befor but i am a dammn good stick welder!!! and im just 16 so maby i can get to tig later on

  • depends what line of work your in. Broiler makers work with MIG welders mainly (fairly simple to use and does the job just fine) whilst Sheet Metal workers (like me) have to be able to weld a whole variety of things with a whole variety of methods. If you just weld as a "fix it", then MIG welding should be fine for you.

  • no im a welder for a lot of things like i go out on small calls to build trallers, repair tractors, finceing, and stuff like that but i mainly work for a michenest. i sometimes go with my dad to the shipyard were he works and help him. but i would like to try tig i have a welder that has DC current and i was thinking that i might get a tig atachment for it but i don`t know?

  • Not really, I'm third year boilermaker. We're put through routine, and advanced TIG corses, boilermakers are tending to use the TIG a lot more. I was welding it all today. Just like becoming good at MIG, you need practice, same with TIG. People think MIG is merely getting the welding to be neat, MIG requires a lot of skill and practice to get the right penertration, no cracks, etc. particularly in structual steel work, higher carbon steels. Mostly everything at my shop is weld tested.

  • 99% of boiler tubes are tig welded.

  • well it said back in mail box that you posted a reply

    I don't see 1

  • what size torch is that ? and what brand welder are You

    useing

  • I'm not sure but it's a cheap, bulky TIG torch. School doesn't want the nice stuff for inexperienced welders. :-p It's watercooled though and I was using a Lincoln welder.

  • r u using a Miller Elite series helmet?

  • Yes I am. Never had a problem with the helmet and I'm very satisfied with it. Has that huge viewing area as well unike the usual rectangle that your used to.

  • I use a Hobart Hood, but Im bout to upgrade to a Miller Pro series probaly, maybe a Digital Elite if the price wasn't so much!!

  • its a hood not a helmet

  • uh I never saw a finished weld

  • i hate aluminum tig, i can weld mild steel and stainless in all positions quite well but for some reason i cant get the hang of aluminum DIE ALUMINUM

  • The trick is to blast it instantly with heat when you start out. Be sure to add filler metal when the bead flattens out for a nice shiny weld. Above all, clean the oxies from the surface with a wire brush devoted to aluminum only. A stainless steel brush is a must.

  • that could be one of my problems i havent been using a brush, im usually using about 100 amps on 14 gauge is that about right?

  • Heat usually doesn't matter if you have a foot pedal. Aluminum oxide melts at a very high temperature. In fact it melts at 3,729 fahrenheit compared to bare aluminum which is at 1,220 fahrenheit! So do yourself a favor and wire brush the oxides to remove that crust. After that, it should melt faster and make a better bead.

  • Ah almost forgot. It takes more heat to melt aluminum ironically than steel. This is because the aluminum acts as a heat sink and dissipates the heat faster than steel.

  • never tried tig welding, looks very interesting! almost like a mix of arc and gas welding or something

  • arc legth looked a little long, dont want to take the shielding gas away from the puddle.

  • Alum isn't that bad. it has a way different feel than steel and you need 1 amp per thousanth(rule of thumb) if you have a nice welder with hertz and pulse controll, you might be ablet to weld a lil bit thicker stuff. I keep mine at around 80hz and it works great.

  • Nice. I bought tig welder a little over a year ago. Its a miller syncrowave 180sd. I've never welded aluminum though. I get nervous about using a/c with all the warning labels all over the welder at the ac setting lol. Is there any extra precautions I should take when using ac as opposed to dc??

    Thanks

  • No, there is nothing that I came across that was dangerous. It may screw up electronic devices but I mean, my camera is electronic and that didn't get screwed up.

  • AC is way more dangerous than DC. AC runs at 60Hz, but most tig machines use high frequency (80Hz i believe). The fast changing of polarity makes your heart rhythm get out of wack really fast which can be fatal.

  • no extra precautions really you just have more opprotunities to get shocked by the high frequency, high frequency is continuous during ac since the polarity is reversed 60 times a second it needs a pilot arc to keep it going. and no hf is not dangerous unless you have a pacemaker it will not make your heart explode.

  • I just recently started to mess with aluminum but I don't have the chance to do it often. I just know that you must use AC HF. Also be sure to use the tungsten with the green tip on the back end and make sure the other end is grinded to a round tip. Also be ready to keep moving across the work piece because the heat builds up really fast in aluminum which will cause it to melt quickly-which is something that I need to work on avoiding.

  • you may want to consider buying a filter for the camera, then we could see the weld pool

  • nice sounded like u were pulsing lol what were ur amps at?

  • No pulsing, that's just what AC sounds like. :) I don't know what amperage I was at but it must have been at 140ish. Doesn't really matter too much when you got a foot pedal.

  • I just started Tig welding.. Im still on Steel and was wandering how much difference it is between steel and aluminum?

  • Well it's quite different. For starters you want pure tungsten (green) because it creates a nice ball at the end. You also run in AC and compared to steel, it's makes the sound you hear in this video. Also it looks like rolled quarters for the beads. Aluminum is more fussy to clean as well with teh whole oxide to clean, etc.

  • Ah almost forgot. Aluminum as we know sucks up heat fast. So usually you need more heat to melt aluminum than steel.

  • thanks so much for the advice, im loveing welding so far. and thanks for posting the video.

  • Well good luck in the field! I wanted to be a carpenter but I saw the wood as steel and the welding as the nails. Anybody can hammer nails but it takes skill to weld. ;-)

  • Scratch TIG deposits tungsten in the weld resulting in a defect. With HF on it's easier and avoids ths problem.

  • you tap the tungsten carefully to the base metal without sticking it and your ready to start traveling after the puddle is created "add filler wire as needed" or walk the cup over the filler wire. high frequency does save your tungsten though.

  • moron, you dont tap the tung. to the base metal.

  • Some machines are strike arc, so tapping would be alright, I always if doing pipe side my filler along the tungsten gettin the arc. :O

  • Some machines are HF-start, some lift-arc, some are scratch-start, some use DC-EP to start. Not all machines are the same. Funny how Name-calling and Ingnorance go hand in hand. :)

  • fag63 i think ur somehow confused arc welding with this

  • Ah I like Plasma welds...Yeah not too much of that seen on You Tube...Usually done by Thermal Dynamics system.

  • Turn the voltage to a thousand right --???Just kidding love the questions Guys don't even bother..Godd Tig machine costs too much for you to Learn....Godd feeding of rod man Good control of Pentiometer...and steady feeding of rod..!

  • I love that sweet ac sound

  • what model welder do you have - what does the foot pedal do - varies the current amperage?

  • Idk what model I was using. It's an old Miller TIG welder though and is water cooled. The foot pedal varies the amperage just like a pottery wheel. You can use a basic DC welding machine in fact. You just won't have any control over the amperage.

  • should have used a lincoln :P

  • Do you have to touch the rod to the surface to strike an arc? I mean, what do you do to create the arc? Thanks.

  • You can touch the tungsten to the metal as a scratch start or using "lift-arc". Common use though is to start by high frequency and using a foot pedal to control the heat.

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