Skycollection----Look at the "Capacitor Pulse Motor" circuit in the next videos. Basically the source battery is where I put a 2.7 volt 10 farad and at the charge point I put a 35 volt 100uf . Add a battery front and back and it is the same thing. I am leaving the cap on the back end sometimes to help absorb the back spike. Leaving the super cap on the front end does nothing. That is just a source point for power.
Lidmotor, video response upload failed, not sure why. My 1" Neoball goes at 500 RPM, pulses ar 120 msec. Scope shows approx -20v spikes at the LED anode, and +15V spikes at the cathode (the + side of the charge battery). So its sortof reverse biased spikes across the diode, so how does that light it up? It wants +anode -cathode for regular operation correct?
Jack---You have discovered that there is something very strange about this circuit. It doesn't charge very well. When I put the scope on this I really didn't like what I saw so I am experimenting with a rewired version that charges better. On this one I am using a switching diode instead of the LED. If it works out better then I will post a video of it.
lidmotor - Under jackscholze is my first video. Check it out. Its the only one under my name. The second sensor does help the neo-ball spin faster. I also switched to a 10k and 5k pot in series to the transistor base.
Jack---Good job!! Nice video of your setup. I am using 2 AAs alkalines right now on mine and it is running fine. If you get a chance try a diametrically magnetized cylinder neo as the rotor. It works well. JonnyDavro came up with that one and it seems to be the best rotor so far. I did try a 1'' sphere neo with 6v and it spun up to very high RPMs. Pull the LED first or it will burn out. Thanks for posting your video. "Nikky" Tesla would be smiling.
diegra1----I don't speak nor read Spanish but I guess what you are asking is can this "self-run" with capacitors only and the answer is no. It uses energy. It does not make it. I wish that it did. I could retire wealthy. lol
I 'm going to add a 2nd hall sensor and see if it might improve the RPMs, also put higher resistance from the hall sensor to the base of the transistor to further reduce current.
Lidmotor, can you post a scope shot of the waveform across the coil? I dont have a scope, that would help understand what's happening with the radiant spike to the diode/charge battery.
Jack-----The scope shot is a good idea. I hope that your second Hall sensor helps the RPM but you should not need it. I tried a 1" sphere neo and it worked very well and spun up faster than the cylinder. I am using a silicon based lubricant on the mirror and that helps also.
Added a cercap .1 ufd/100v across the coil and trhe white LED gets brighter w/no increase in current, about 10-15 ma.
Also increased pot to 10k and 5 k in series, draws less current. It seems the higher the resistance, the less current draw for the same motor RPM. Not sure why this is so.
Lidmotor, does your charge battery actually charge up? Mine stays about the same voltage all the time. Wonderful project, thanks to you and jonnydavro. Keep things cooking!!!
Jack----Sounds like you are making great progress. I have not spent enough time with the circuit to really explore the charging aspect but I think that with such a low amp draw that it won't "push" energy into a battery unless the battery impedance is very low. In other experiments I found out that a partially discharged battery pulls in the energy the best. If you try the charging with capacitors first you get a better feel of how it will work.
Lidmotor, Thanks for the info. It works no white led connection at all, also a red led lights up but stops the motor. Also I can connect hall-sensor directly to base of 2n3906 so the pot/res doesn't seem to do anything. hmmmm well it is enjoyable
Tesla shuttle idea her, put a another bifilar coil #2 in series with #1, then rectify that output,etc. Add bifilar #3 etc same thing. Series tesla radiant nodes like.
Great guns, I got the thing to work!! It works Lidmotor, but it seems weak. The white LED flashes very dim, and turning the POT doesn't do anything to speed up or speeed down the 1 inch neo-ball magnet I am using. I could not get the cylinder one to sustain a spin, though it flashed the white LED dimly like the sphere magnet.
MoonSpyStudios-- Thanks Bill. Take another look at the circuit. This is wired a little different than a traditional Newman---but you have me wondering now if I put another coil on the opposite side of the rotor magnet and rewired it like a Newman that could prove very interesting. I think that it would work. Jonnydavro if you are reading this how about we make a "One magnet no bearing Newman motor"??
Yes ,,, that's where I was going with my comment,, I'm glad you were able to read between the lines :) you all are so close to having it,, my magnetic wave reactor design,, Lid you were really close when you made the little satellite guy,,,, but gave up on it :( remember you said it wasn't induction. think of it as dominoes then it might hit you? ever seen the domino convention? they have up to 75 thousand at once in some displays. catching my drift?
I'm wondering, what if you would replace maggie for a normal coil with a bridge rectifier and a carging capacitor and then feed back the output to the source cap instead of lighting 2 led's; would it reach break even??? It's a nicely fabricated circuit.
Flux4Energizer--- I have been thinking about that for the last 24 hours while I watched this thing run. This is where my math and engineering knowlege should kick in but is missing. This could all be calculated. My "guess" right now is that it would further lower the amp draw but it would never break even. Energy is lost through friction and heat.
Normaly speaking i would totaly agree with you, but i've seen some weird things with bedini / bedini like circuits so at this point i'm starting to believe that it might just be possible to reach break even or even overunity!
I've seen jonny davro's circuits and there is on certain times negative amp draw; so you could say negative amp draw is the same as overunity.
Also skycollection has a motor that looks like running / generating overunity.
Eddie--- I had alot of trouble getting this to work. The problem was that I didn't understand what was going on. I was trying to use my Hall sensor like a reed switch but it doesn't work like that. It sends out a small signal when the south pole of a magnet goes by and you have to run that through an amplifier (transistor) to make it work in this pulse motor. Once you understand that you can really make things dance. It would work fine in a 12 volt system if you set it up right.
Hey Lidmotor, congrats again and you are becoming a guru. I always had a gut feel that sometimes the standard pick-up coil setup is overkill. Overkill in the sense that when it switches on the firing transistor excess current (and hence energy) is pumped through the transistor base above and beyond what you really need. Perhaps the hall sensor is a more energy efficient pick-up/transistor-firing solution. Good stuff if you are counting milliamps!
For whatever you do, keep in mind my words of wisdom: It's preferebale to have the transistor switched fully on when it is firing. For example, suppose the transistor fires for four milliseconds but is only half on. This may give the same apparent "push" as when the transistor is fully on for two milliseconds. The key difference being that in the first case the transistor is burning up energy when it is half on and acting like a resistor, instead of like a switch.
And of course the easy way to check this is with your scope for a coil trigger. For the hall sensor, I assume that you can simply check for this with your multimeter.
Imagine a standard NPN firing transistor setup with your supply voltage going through the coil and then to the collector of the transistor. If you look at the voltage on the collector, the closer it is to ground, the more the transistor is on. When the collector voltage is 0.2 volts or less you are fully on.
Now here is a key point: If you are counting milliamps (mircoamps?) then you only need to supply the minimum base current to match the resistance of the load. To put it another way, if coil A draws 200 milliamps when fully on, and coil B draws 100 milliamps when fully on, then you can get away with providing less base current to the transistor for the coil B case. It may or may not be relevant, but if you want to tune your consumption down as much as possible, it could be fun! lol
More good words of wisdom. Milliamps may turn to microamps if I keep going with this. What you just told me lines up with what I have seen so far. You need the transistor turned completely on or off to get best best bang for the buck. I like this Hall sensor approach to turning the coil on and off. I even got it to go into self oscillation when I held the magnet just right.
tonysam-----No this is NOT a Bedini. This is a Lidmotor. It is a combination of many other people's ideas and designs encluding John Bedini's. The big similarity to a Bedini design is that I am capturing the energy coming off the collasping magnet field of a de-energized coil of wire. The infamous "back spike". The simplest example of this is the "Joule Thief" circuit.
Lidmotor, Amazing!! Can you swap the caps? That is, switch the charge cap with the source capacitor.
Then do that indefinitely to demonstrate that free or radiant energy is being drawn and used? Also, does Maggie's presence draw any extra power from the system or not?
If you take Maggie away, does the sytem use less energy, more energy, or no change?
Jackscholze--- The Hall Effect Sensor part # is: 621-AH375-Pl-A. Others will work also. This one is rated at 2 to 20 volts. Maggie does drag on the system. You can swap the capacitors (or batteries) but the device USES energy, it does not make it. I would be an instant billionaire if it did. Imagine this : You charge up a capacitor one time and from then on you just take energy OUT of the device. Everyone would want one. I want one. lol And the impossible dream continues.
its interesting cause the hall effect sensor is not digital, its not on and off its either on or off. how is it possible to make it work?. if i understand correctly the coil si always turned on, but turned on abit more when the hall effect is near the magnet.
Hi, can you use steel wire to make an electromagnet ? - it conducts electricity the same a copper ?
lykenth08 1 year ago
@lykenth08 ----You can and I have but the steel wire coil does not work as well as the copper one.
Lidmotor 1 year ago
lid, can you show in your cicuit, where is the place of the capacitors? and what is the value?
skycollection 2 years ago
Skycollection----Look at the "Capacitor Pulse Motor" circuit in the next videos. Basically the source battery is where I put a 2.7 volt 10 farad and at the charge point I put a 35 volt 100uf . Add a battery front and back and it is the same thing. I am leaving the cap on the back end sometimes to help absorb the back spike. Leaving the super cap on the front end does nothing. That is just a source point for power.
Lidmotor 2 years ago
Lidmotor, video response upload failed, not sure why. My 1" Neoball goes at 500 RPM, pulses ar 120 msec. Scope shows approx -20v spikes at the LED anode, and +15V spikes at the cathode (the + side of the charge battery). So its sortof reverse biased spikes across the diode, so how does that light it up? It wants +anode -cathode for regular operation correct?
I'm running off 8 farads ultracap source,
( runs for 15 minutes ) slo charging too.
Very cool
Aloha
jackscholze 2 years ago
Jack---You have discovered that there is something very strange about this circuit. It doesn't charge very well. When I put the scope on this I really didn't like what I saw so I am experimenting with a rewired version that charges better. On this one I am using a switching diode instead of the LED. If it works out better then I will post a video of it.
Lidmotor 2 years ago
lidmotor - Under jackscholze is my first video. Check it out. Its the only one under my name. The second sensor does help the neo-ball spin faster. I also switched to a 10k and 5k pot in series to the transistor base.
I'm getting a scope also pretty soon!
ok - data for 24 hours runtime
07/16 0500 src: 2.975v charge: 2.850v
07/170500 src: 2.83v charge: 2.908v
The duracell AAs are charging up
Aloha
jackscholze 2 years ago
Jack---Good job!! Nice video of your setup. I am using 2 AAs alkalines right now on mine and it is running fine. If you get a chance try a diametrically magnetized cylinder neo as the rotor. It works well. JonnyDavro came up with that one and it seems to be the best rotor so far. I did try a 1'' sphere neo with 6v and it spun up to very high RPMs. Pull the LED first or it will burn out. Thanks for posting your video. "Nikky" Tesla would be smiling.
Lidmotor 2 years ago
Hola Lid
Hay palabras que no entiendo en el video:
Podrías indicar el tamaño de los capacitores?
El capacitor "source" está previamente cargado?
El circuito es un "self runner"?
Un saludo cordial.
diegra1 2 years ago
diegra1----I don't speak nor read Spanish but I guess what you are asking is can this "self-run" with capacitors only and the answer is no. It uses energy. It does not make it. I wish that it did. I could retire wealthy. lol
Lidmotor 2 years ago
I 'm going to add a 2nd hall sensor and see if it might improve the RPMs, also put higher resistance from the hall sensor to the base of the transistor to further reduce current.
Lidmotor, can you post a scope shot of the waveform across the coil? I dont have a scope, that would help understand what's happening with the radiant spike to the diode/charge battery.
The white led must have a low impedance.
Aloha and tx for the feedback.
jackscholze 2 years ago
Jack-----The scope shot is a good idea. I hope that your second Hall sensor helps the RPM but you should not need it. I tried a 1" sphere neo and it worked very well and spun up faster than the cylinder. I am using a silicon based lubricant on the mirror and that helps also.
Lidmotor 2 years ago
Added a cercap .1 ufd/100v across the coil and trhe white LED gets brighter w/no increase in current, about 10-15 ma.
Also increased pot to 10k and 5 k in series, draws less current. It seems the higher the resistance, the less current draw for the same motor RPM. Not sure why this is so.
Lidmotor, does your charge battery actually charge up? Mine stays about the same voltage all the time. Wonderful project, thanks to you and jonnydavro. Keep things cooking!!!
jackscholze 2 years ago
Jack----Sounds like you are making great progress. I have not spent enough time with the circuit to really explore the charging aspect but I think that with such a low amp draw that it won't "push" energy into a battery unless the battery impedance is very low. In other experiments I found out that a partially discharged battery pulls in the energy the best. If you try the charging with capacitors first you get a better feel of how it will work.
Lidmotor 2 years ago
Lidmotor, Thanks for the info. It works no white led connection at all, also a red led lights up but stops the motor. Also I can connect hall-sensor directly to base of 2n3906 so the pot/res doesn't seem to do anything. hmmmm well it is enjoyable
anyway
aloha
jackscholze 2 years ago
Tesla shuttle idea her, put a another bifilar coil #2 in series with #1, then rectify that output,etc. Add bifilar #3 etc same thing. Series tesla radiant nodes like.
aloha
jackscholze 2 years ago
Great guns, I got the thing to work!! It works Lidmotor, but it seems weak. The white LED flashes very dim, and turning the POT doesn't do anything to speed up or speeed down the 1 inch neo-ball magnet I am using. I could not get the cylinder one to sustain a spin, though it flashed the white LED dimly like the sphere magnet.
Any suggestions?
Aloha from Jack Scholze
jackscholze 2 years ago
Jack---I tried several diffrent drive coils and you might find a better one for your setup. Alot of this is trial and error.
Lidmotor 2 years ago
look at gotoluc latest vid, he levitate the magnet successfully.
kenshin32 2 years ago
This is just like my newman motor basically. COOL good job Lidmotor
bill
MoonSpyStudios 2 years ago
MoonSpyStudios-- Thanks Bill. Take another look at the circuit. This is wired a little different than a traditional Newman---but you have me wondering now if I put another coil on the opposite side of the rotor magnet and rewired it like a Newman that could prove very interesting. I think that it would work. Jonnydavro if you are reading this how about we make a "One magnet no bearing Newman motor"??
Lidmotor 2 years ago
Yes ,,, that's where I was going with my comment,, I'm glad you were able to read between the lines :) you all are so close to having it,, my magnetic wave reactor design,, Lid you were really close when you made the little satellite guy,,,, but gave up on it :( remember you said it wasn't induction. think of it as dominoes then it might hit you? ever seen the domino convention? they have up to 75 thousand at once in some displays. catching my drift?
Bill
MoonSpyStudios 2 years ago
Hi lid, nice work again.
I'm wondering, what if you would replace maggie for a normal coil with a bridge rectifier and a carging capacitor and then feed back the output to the source cap instead of lighting 2 led's; would it reach break even??? It's a nicely fabricated circuit.
Flux4Energizer 2 years ago
Flux4Energizer--- I have been thinking about that for the last 24 hours while I watched this thing run. This is where my math and engineering knowlege should kick in but is missing. This could all be calculated. My "guess" right now is that it would further lower the amp draw but it would never break even. Energy is lost through friction and heat.
Lidmotor 2 years ago
Hi Lid.
Normaly speaking i would totaly agree with you, but i've seen some weird things with bedini / bedini like circuits so at this point i'm starting to believe that it might just be possible to reach break even or even overunity!
I've seen jonny davro's circuits and there is on certain times negative amp draw; so you could say negative amp draw is the same as overunity.
Also skycollection has a motor that looks like running / generating overunity.
So i'm very very curious!!!
Flux4Energizer 2 years ago
Nice, You have gained another member to the family!
kubikop 2 years ago
Hi Lid,
Can you show a hall effect circuit for a twelve volt system?
I tried one, but it failed.
Thanks.
Eddie
Eddiev1985 2 years ago
Eddie--- I had alot of trouble getting this to work. The problem was that I didn't understand what was going on. I was trying to use my Hall sensor like a reed switch but it doesn't work like that. It sends out a small signal when the south pole of a magnet goes by and you have to run that through an amplifier (transistor) to make it work in this pulse motor. Once you understand that you can really make things dance. It would work fine in a 12 volt system if you set it up right.
Lidmotor 2 years ago
Hey Lidmotor, congrats again and you are becoming a guru. I always had a gut feel that sometimes the standard pick-up coil setup is overkill. Overkill in the sense that when it switches on the firing transistor excess current (and hence energy) is pumped through the transistor base above and beyond what you really need. Perhaps the hall sensor is a more energy efficient pick-up/transistor-firing solution. Good stuff if you are counting milliamps!
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
For whatever you do, keep in mind my words of wisdom: It's preferebale to have the transistor switched fully on when it is firing. For example, suppose the transistor fires for four milliseconds but is only half on. This may give the same apparent "push" as when the transistor is fully on for two milliseconds. The key difference being that in the first case the transistor is burning up energy when it is half on and acting like a resistor, instead of like a switch.
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
And of course the easy way to check this is with your scope for a coil trigger. For the hall sensor, I assume that you can simply check for this with your multimeter.
Imagine a standard NPN firing transistor setup with your supply voltage going through the coil and then to the collector of the transistor. If you look at the voltage on the collector, the closer it is to ground, the more the transistor is on. When the collector voltage is 0.2 volts or less you are fully on.
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
Now here is a key point: If you are counting milliamps (mircoamps?) then you only need to supply the minimum base current to match the resistance of the load. To put it another way, if coil A draws 200 milliamps when fully on, and coil B draws 100 milliamps when fully on, then you can get away with providing less base current to the transistor for the coil B case. It may or may not be relevant, but if you want to tune your consumption down as much as possible, it could be fun! lol
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
More good words of wisdom. Milliamps may turn to microamps if I keep going with this. What you just told me lines up with what I have seen so far. You need the transistor turned completely on or off to get best best bang for the buck. I like this Hall sensor approach to turning the coil on and off. I even got it to go into self oscillation when I held the magnet just right.
Lidmotor 2 years ago
this is essentially a small bedini motor, am i correct? nice little motor
tonysam11290 2 years ago
tonysam-----No this is NOT a Bedini. This is a Lidmotor. It is a combination of many other people's ideas and designs encluding John Bedini's. The big similarity to a Bedini design is that I am capturing the energy coming off the collasping magnet field of a de-energized coil of wire. The infamous "back spike". The simplest example of this is the "Joule Thief" circuit.
Lidmotor 2 years ago
Lidmotor, What is the Mouser part number or perhaps a generic number for the Hall effect sensor? You mentioned its2-3 volts or something?
Your demos are great, and I really appreciate the clear presentation and especially the circuit diagrams. Please keep up the very fine work.
No Ka Oi
and aloha
Jack
jackscholze 2 years ago
Lidmotor, Amazing!! Can you swap the caps? That is, switch the charge cap with the source capacitor.
Then do that indefinitely to demonstrate that free or radiant energy is being drawn and used? Also, does Maggie's presence draw any extra power from the system or not?
If you take Maggie away, does the sytem use less energy, more energy, or no change?
Thanks and Aloha from
Jack
jackscholze 2 years ago
Jackscholze--- The Hall Effect Sensor part # is: 621-AH375-Pl-A. Others will work also. This one is rated at 2 to 20 volts. Maggie does drag on the system. You can swap the capacitors (or batteries) but the device USES energy, it does not make it. I would be an instant billionaire if it did. Imagine this : You charge up a capacitor one time and from then on you just take energy OUT of the device. Everyone would want one. I want one. lol And the impossible dream continues.
Lidmotor 2 years ago
woah!
rroge5 2 years ago
rroge5---woah?? When I saw that thing spinning up fast the first time I said-- WOAH!!!! lol
Lidmotor 2 years ago
its interesting cause the hall effect sensor is not digital, its not on and off its either on or off. how is it possible to make it work?. if i understand correctly the coil si always turned on, but turned on abit more when the hall effect is near the magnet.
rroge5 2 years ago
Well, that seemed simple enough. I'll have to look into this deeper when I finish my other project. Thanks for posting.
VonGoetzi 2 years ago
VonGoetzi----Yes. It incrediblly simple. I wish that I had discovered this 2 years ago.
Lidmotor 2 years ago