How about 1 slightly larger hole at the bottom in the middle for water inlet and 2 holes at the top for gas outlet. It would seem that only having 1 hole at the top would be a little restrictive.
Have you attempted a wider gap? like 3/8" or 1/2". It seems like that would be better since you explained why a smaller gap would not be that efficient. I realize that too much of a gap would also soon have a negative effect. Just wondering if you have experimented with wider gaps?
ANY - I MEAN - ANY - air gap in a dry cell design is dangerous ! It is a point at which the HHO gas can be ignited by even the tiniest static spark. It would be bad too, think about it, it would be before the bubblers, use hydraulic pressure, and the entire system would be destroyed. A dry cell should always remain fully flooded. A constant flow of electrolite circulating is what's needed.
I took a second look at your video an noticed you could increase the leakage path distance to 12 inches by lining up the elect./gas holes in all the plates and ensuring that no metal was exposed at the plate holes. Make the plate holes larger and place an o-ring inside them to seal between the slotless Teflon gaskets. This should also decrease flow resistance because each cell is connected directly to the in and out passages.
I like sealed electrolyte and gas paths between the plates. I made a similar design using multiple layers of neoprene gasket material. Worked fantastically to reduce current leakage to near zero. Problem I had was when the cell heated up, the neoprene would swell up choking off the passages. I couldn't run the cell above 95 deg. F. Tried an acrylic center gasket, but had lots of leaks because of expansion. Your Teflon gaskets should solve that problem. Great idea! Keep the videos coming.
I also had issues when trying this with nitrile gaskets. Teflon will not swell with heat and is a much harder gasket than we are used to. I hope it works. We will find out soon. I now have all the parts and should be running this weekend.
too late for the change, but why not cut insets into the Teflon sheets for the Nickel plates to drop into. Cut channels in the Teflon for the electrolyte and gas to flow through and eliminate all holes in the Nickle plates. Drill your bolt holes through the Teflon sheets to run your SS all thread rod through and use SS locknuts to compress it all together. That's how I got my cell constructed..
I made an acrylic cell just like that. It was difficult to seal up but I still like the concept. As far as eliminating current leakage this should work just as well.
where did you get your Nickel 200 plates and Teflon sheet material from?? I'm needing a regular supplier to move to the next stage at building a larger cell than the 6" x 6". I'm going for a 18" x 18" or bigger..
The next way I am going to make the plates is just cut a half U in stead of the holes, then the will stay aligned ,and you will get more surface area ,and there will be more gasket surface for the seal beacuse the hole makes a shorter distance to let any thing escape if you know what I mean.The bolt will go thru the rubber and fit in to the U.And I use grade 8s to tighten as tight as you want.Also the gasket can be thinner.
Oh, and easy to take apart and assemble.Just lay the plates on the bottom bolts. And master bond makes stuff to stop current jump guaranteed,I will be tryn RINO bed truck liner next week.Master Bond a little to expensive for me.
I am also using grade 8 bolts this time instead of stainless. The stainless bolts break too easy. I am going to cover the bolt in heat shrink to prevent shorts and contact with KOH.
I would not recommend bedliner material of any type. It does block current leakage but comes loose from the plate over time.
I beleive that you should also sleve the bolts with a non conductor, very thin, like srink sleveing or, if you want to stay fancy, Teflon straws... Gary
The only thing I can see that would be better maybe, would be to have a electrolite path that is inside the gasket itself... Like if you put an extra piece of teflon tape on plate before you put gasket on, then put another piece of teflon tape on gasket before next plate, thereby eliminating the two plates from conducting to the sides of the electrolite channel. Gary
No, no baby steps here. That is one of my biggest problems. Everytime I run into a problem and try to fix it I also add many new ideas. I probably would be better off just changing one thing at a time but I am who I am.
I know but I have a plan for that. The cell should stay completely full. There should not even be a gas pocket at the top. Normal gaskets will not work. I have tried that as well. This stuff does not compress.
Dude your officially "off the reservation" This is crazy and i'm freakin LOVING IT! It's like waiting for the next Transformers movie to come out. I can't wait to see this cell in action. Your a Jedi master my friend!
I have high hopes. But then as you know we all have high hopes every time we put in the effort that one of these projects take. We dream, then we plan, then we think and rethink, then we hope for the impossible and always come crashing down to earth. Sooner or later one of us will hit on something that makes another breakthrough. Just like the drycell did. Then the quest will begain again. It is all good and most of all FUN.
Hi Larry, it looks good, I used the same principal for my gaskets, although it was the el cheapo version that I used. :-) If the water flow is good enough then I think you got it all covered. You might say that this is going to be a bullet proof setup.
The only thing missing is a built in thouch screen, but I guess that this test version doesn't need one yet :-)
How about 1 slightly larger hole at the bottom in the middle for water inlet and 2 holes at the top for gas outlet. It would seem that only having 1 hole at the top would be a little restrictive.
cat3rn 2 years ago
Have you attempted a wider gap? like 3/8" or 1/2". It seems like that would be better since you explained why a smaller gap would not be that efficient. I realize that too much of a gap would also soon have a negative effect. Just wondering if you have experimented with wider gaps?
cat3rn 2 years ago
ANY - I MEAN - ANY - air gap in a dry cell design is dangerous ! It is a point at which the HHO gas can be ignited by even the tiniest static spark. It would be bad too, think about it, it would be before the bubblers, use hydraulic pressure, and the entire system would be destroyed. A dry cell should always remain fully flooded. A constant flow of electrolite circulating is what's needed.
newagemotor 2 years ago
I took a second look at your video an noticed you could increase the leakage path distance to 12 inches by lining up the elect./gas holes in all the plates and ensuring that no metal was exposed at the plate holes. Make the plate holes larger and place an o-ring inside them to seal between the slotless Teflon gaskets. This should also decrease flow resistance because each cell is connected directly to the in and out passages.
cuke8466 2 years ago
I like sealed electrolyte and gas paths between the plates. I made a similar design using multiple layers of neoprene gasket material. Worked fantastically to reduce current leakage to near zero. Problem I had was when the cell heated up, the neoprene would swell up choking off the passages. I couldn't run the cell above 95 deg. F. Tried an acrylic center gasket, but had lots of leaks because of expansion. Your Teflon gaskets should solve that problem. Great idea! Keep the videos coming.
cuke8466 2 years ago
I also had issues when trying this with nitrile gaskets. Teflon will not swell with heat and is a much harder gasket than we are used to. I hope it works. We will find out soon. I now have all the parts and should be running this weekend.
Larry
HHOPWR 2 years ago
too late for the change, but why not cut insets into the Teflon sheets for the Nickel plates to drop into. Cut channels in the Teflon for the electrolyte and gas to flow through and eliminate all holes in the Nickle plates. Drill your bolt holes through the Teflon sheets to run your SS all thread rod through and use SS locknuts to compress it all together. That's how I got my cell constructed..
altern8energy 2 years ago
I made an acrylic cell just like that. It was difficult to seal up but I still like the concept. As far as eliminating current leakage this should work just as well.
Larry
HHOPWR 2 years ago
where did you get your Nickel 200 plates and Teflon sheet material from?? I'm needing a regular supplier to move to the next stage at building a larger cell than the 6" x 6". I'm going for a 18" x 18" or bigger..
altern8energy 2 years ago
The next way I am going to make the plates is just cut a half U in stead of the holes, then the will stay aligned ,and you will get more surface area ,and there will be more gasket surface for the seal beacuse the hole makes a shorter distance to let any thing escape if you know what I mean.The bolt will go thru the rubber and fit in to the U.And I use grade 8s to tighten as tight as you want.Also the gasket can be thinner.
Hollywoods7 2 years ago
Oh, and easy to take apart and assemble.Just lay the plates on the bottom bolts. And master bond makes stuff to stop current jump guaranteed,I will be tryn RINO bed truck liner next week.Master Bond a little to expensive for me.
Hollywoods7 2 years ago
I am also using grade 8 bolts this time instead of stainless. The stainless bolts break too easy. I am going to cover the bolt in heat shrink to prevent shorts and contact with KOH.
I would not recommend bedliner material of any type. It does block current leakage but comes loose from the plate over time.
Larry
HHOPWR 2 years ago
Comment removed
RebelRouserTexas 2 years ago
Comment removed
RebelRouserTexas 2 years ago
Larry, with all the work you have put into this, and planning you did pryer to construction, I hope this works like it should.
I can't wait to see this in action.
Peace.
mikepowers420 2 years ago
Belay my last,,, You are surrounding channel with teflon... Sleveing bolts may be good idea though.
llewgnal 2 years ago
I beleive that you should also sleve the bolts with a non conductor, very thin, like srink sleveing or, if you want to stay fancy, Teflon straws... Gary
llewgnal 2 years ago
The bolts will be sleaved or the whole thing woud be a short.
Larry
HHOPWR 2 years ago
The cell design looks very efficient, can't foresee any problems, should up the MMW ???
llewgnal 2 years ago
Boy that Teflon must be very expensive ?
The only thing I can see that would be better maybe, would be to have a electrolite path that is inside the gasket itself... Like if you put an extra piece of teflon tape on plate before you put gasket on, then put another piece of teflon tape on gasket before next plate, thereby eliminating the two plates from conducting to the sides of the electrolite channel. Gary
llewgnal 2 years ago
gee larry have you ever heard of baby steps. you are always pushing the limits.
go big or go home
cant wait to see this cell pumping out gas.
great work and good luck
hemi
BruteForcENGINEering 2 years ago
No, no baby steps here. That is one of my biggest problems. Everytime I run into a problem and try to fix it I also add many new ideas. I probably would be better off just changing one thing at a time but I am who I am.
Larry
HHOPWR 2 years ago
Hey dude, careful with the gasket...
I tried that month ago, and, my amp draw never more than 1 amp...
I found out, the water refuse to circulate freely...
Can't wait to see it run... Lol!!
afdhalatifftan92 2 years ago
I know but I have a plan for that. The cell should stay completely full. There should not even be a gas pocket at the top. Normal gaskets will not work. I have tried that as well. This stuff does not compress.
Larry
HHOPWR 2 years ago
Dude your officially "off the reservation" This is crazy and i'm freakin LOVING IT! It's like waiting for the next Transformers movie to come out. I can't wait to see this cell in action. Your a Jedi master my friend!
delvis11 2 years ago
Thanks Steve.
HHOPWR 2 years ago
excellent build cant wait to see how she works
d3adp001 2 years ago
I have high hopes. But then as you know we all have high hopes every time we put in the effort that one of these projects take. We dream, then we plan, then we think and rethink, then we hope for the impossible and always come crashing down to earth. Sooner or later one of us will hit on something that makes another breakthrough. Just like the drycell did. Then the quest will begain again. It is all good and most of all FUN.
Latty
HHOPWR 2 years ago
You have been working so hard you mispelled your own name!!
gemrough 2 years ago
That or had too much electrolite to drink. LOL :)
Larry
HHOPWR 2 years ago
I thought I was the only one who tested elyte concentration by drinking it.
d3adp001 2 years ago
Hi Larry, it looks good, I used the same principal for my gaskets, although it was the el cheapo version that I used. :-) If the water flow is good enough then I think you got it all covered. You might say that this is going to be a bullet proof setup.
The only thing missing is a built in thouch screen, but I guess that this test version doesn't need one yet :-)
Greets from the Netherlands, iT
insAneTunA 2 years ago
Damn you. I forgot the touch screen. Shit where am I going to put that. Maybe Bill Gates will pitch in.
Larry
HHOPWR 2 years ago