Added: 2 years ago
From: Colhane
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  • parebéns mac!

  • First of all how the heck did you get to Brazil?

    Secondly I didnt see the 16" version for sale 14" and 18"

  • @trextrextrex I am a Baptist missionary here. The Latin pattern Tramontina is made from 10 to 20+ inches in two inch increments. For some reason the 16 inch is hard to find in the US. If you really have to have that length you could always cut an 18 to the same profile.

  • @Colhane Thanks so much. I was buying 16" based on your rec. I live in Tennessee so maybe a heavier one would be best but for that price I would like to try your mods anyway. I will look around for the 16" and if not will go with 18"

  • Love you Machete Modifications Tutorial videos. Great quality and so informative. Great job.

  • muito bom seu tutorial entendi mais ou menos pois sou brasileiro e não falo nada de inglês por favor se der pra fazer um em português eu ficaria muito grato!!! obrigado amigo!!!

  • i have a 10 inch khukuri with a convex edge all the way along the blade, and it's a bastard to sharpen, but thanks to your video, you've saved me a huge amount of trouble, thanks sir!

  • @RnW93 What method are you using to sharpen it?

  • @Colhane i was using course grit sandpaper on a flat surface, then grinding it in a circular motion, then after i feel it's at a good working edge, i switch to finer grit, then i hone it on soft leather, then oil it, but the blade is pretty hard, and takes a while to sharpen, not sure what grade carbon it is, but it's made from a leaf spring.

  • Ola Mac.Poderia fazer um vídeo igual esse mas em português, ensinando modificações no facão e técnicas de amolar.Mesmo não entendendo nada adorei esse vídeo e seus tantos outros.

    Valeu.

  • Thank you my friend!

  • Thank you my friend!

  • a very excellent set of videos you did here. thanks.

  • where can i buy a machette????

  • where did you buy the leather and what is the brand of the sharpninh stone you use

  • @darkelf0172 I live in Brazil and buy my leather locally. The sharpening stones are a Smith's Tri-Hone and a EZ-Lap diamond stone IIRC

  • Did anyone else notice that the title says Modidifications? lol

    goo vid

  • @iKnowEngines I never noticed that. I fixed it. Thanks.

  • what file do you use

  • @MrMoonpaced I use a mill file, single cut.

  • Oh and I forgot to ask, what oil do you use, and is it necessary?

  • Do you recommend that TRi HONE sharpener?

  • @fallenspirit123 That set of stones has served me well for over 20 years. I would have no problem recommending it. Of course it all depends on your ability to sharpen with flat stones.

  • @Colhane OK Thank you. The only experience I had with stones was when a man at a knife store in a mall gave me a "free sample" (it was actually a chunk of a stone) and I managed to get one of my kitchen ones pretty sharp. Do you know if t comes with everything I need to get started?

  • @fallenspirit123 IIRC it comes with the stones and a bottle of oil.

  • @Colhane OK thank you. I might order it then and first try it on some of my cheap knives

  • @Colhane OK Thank you

  • can I just use different grades of sandpaper? Gradually working from fine to coarse?

    Great vids. 

  • @LiberalsLickBalls When I use sandpaper over a mouse pad I start with 320, then go to 400, then 600. If you really want to get fancy you can go from 800 to 2000 but that isn't necessary 600 to 800 leaves a very workable edge on a machete.

    The problem with just using sandpaper is that you will use alot of it if you don't do the initial removal with a file. If you do the work first with a file you are only correcting the flats you left with the file not grinding away lots of steel.

  • @Colhane OK, man, thanks.

    This is a new tool. So I will get a file.

    When we moved I lost a lot of stuff. Can't find my files. I'm sure I'll find em as soon as I buy a new one hehe,

  • great video

  • I'm considering doing this to a Bowie (for North American use) what do you suggest I practice on before i go out and buy a $100.00 bowie?

  • Hi Colhane!!! I made your mods to my Tramontina 18" machete, and I ahve to tell you, it works like a million bucks. The only tramontina machete I was able to find here in Ecuador is one that is very similar to the one you are modifying in this video. Differences are that the handle is made of cheap plastic, and I highly doubt that it is a full tang!! Regardless, thanks a bunch!!

  • when you were testing the cutting edge, it looked like you were trying harder to cut with your modified version as opposed to using, what appeared to be, less effort with the unmodified version. I dont mean to unjustly accuse you, because I honestly dont know the amount of effort you actually put into each stroke, but it seems to me that you showed a bit of favoritism towards your mod. Thats just what it looked like on camera.

  • @Caveman0713 The unmodified edge as it comes from the factory normally doesn't even have an actual edge. That is the case with that one. The edge basically skips off the material without biting. The sharpened machete bites right in. That probably the difference you are seeing, the first blade won't cut at all the second bites right in. That being said I do highly favor sharpened blades as opposed to dull ones but I wasn't trying to play with the camera or create an effect.

  • @Colhane  I have noticed that myself with newly purchased machete blades. I too favor a sharp blade over a dull one, dull blades are useless and dangerous. I was just noting an observation with the way it appeared, I never meant it to seem as an accusation

  • @Caveman0713 I owned more than one Tramontina machete. They come from the factory totally blunt only with the bevel slightly traced.

  • Great set of videos, earned my subscription ! Just wondering how easy convex edge machetes are maintained in the field ? I have just carried out these mods on my Martindale British Army issue golok but have heard that convex blades should be sharpened differently and NOT using a stone. Is this correct ?

  • @garystorey

    If you sharpen a convex on sandpaper at home you get an amazing edge. That edge will dull with use in the field. You can take sandpaper and a mouse pad with you and touch it up. I don't bot5her to do that. I most often use a small diamond rod and wind up with is a basic convex shape edge profile with a small, sharp micro bevel at the very cutting edge. I find this perfectly adequate for what I do in the bush. I have a field sharpening video that demonstrates the process.

  • Sir, i thank you for these 2 videos ,they are 2 of the finest demos and howtos i have watched.

    i thank you for your time and dedication and for all the work you do. thanks------JC

  • Is the sheath handmade or store bought?

  • That sheath is a hand made but store bought. I didn't make that one.

  • i have a really nice machete from the philipines...its made from a spring steel from the leaf spring of a toyota truck...a blacksmith there gave it to me as a gift...its incredably strong and durable and holds an edge you would not believe...

    great vid.

  • i agree, great video!! i love this idea, and plan on buying a machete and experimenting. so, how much should i expect to pay for a good machete? got any good sources, or brands?

    thanks again

  • Excellent Demonstration. Easy to follow, great camera work, Informative. Anyone can see how a great edge is achieved. I will certainly follow this advice. Tell me about the sheath, Machetes suffer from being supplied with terrible sheaths. We need your advice there.

    Thanks.

    Mark - U.K

  • I buy most of my machete sheaths here in Brazil.. They are hand made by professionals. I also make my own sheaths and feel that is the best way to go to get exactly what you want. My sheaths are made with thick leather and treated with beeswax until they are hard as rock and impervious to water.

  • Great set of videos.

    Very productive and well narrated process.

    Great job!

  • I have to comment on that stone holding device being used there. It's very clever, Wouldn't mind grabbing one!!

  • That's a Smith's Tri-Hone, they're not expensive.

  • could a machete with that convex edge take the place of an axe in northern hemisphere woods?

  • In the summer when temps are warm and everything is growing a machete can be the right tool up north. As the temp falls your need for firewood increases greatly. Generating a large volume of firewood is where the machete lags far behind the axe. In the tropics you never have to generate cubic meters of firewood to survive the night. Drying fires are the biggest we have to make.

  • I tell you, man, between you and Dave Canterbury, I've learned more about constructive ingenuity as it applies to deep woods than I thought my little brain could hold. The material is FASCINATING! Thanks, man. You guys deserve a Nobel Peace Prize or something.

  • Thanks for these videos. Do you have an approximation of the angles you are using for each edge? I am modding my kukri machete at the moment and I think I am going to go with a 30º angle on the main edge and an 18º angle on the sharper part. Does this sound about right?

  • That sounds about right. I just eyeball it. You probably have alot more steel to work with on a Kukri than I do in terms of thickness.

  • I am modding a Cold Steel Magnum Kukri so it is probably a bit thicker than the blades you have shown. But I am using a Tormek wet sharpener. It still takes a while though as I am being quite careful and working the blade in three sections. What kind of diamond rod do you use for field upkeep? Do you just draw it along the blade? Any chance of a video instruction? Thanks again for this great series.

  • The critical part on doing a field sharpening video is getting into the field. I'm still stuck without a car here as we just moved back.

    I use the diamond rod like a little file with the blade braced against my leg. IIRC the rod was sold by Gerber.

  • Let me know how that works for you, ill be very interested.

  • I completed my modifications last night. I ended up using a 30º angle on the chopping part and a 20º on the sharper part. Everything seems to work great for it's intended purpose but I will do more testing this weekend. I initially sharpened the blade in three sections because of clearance issues on the Tormek, but I then realized I could remove the stropping wheel and next time I would only have to work in two sections. I may post a video this weekend if i have time.

  • I would love to see your blade in auction. Im torn as to the type of machete to go. The kukri or a tramontina type. So seeing yours in auction with these outstanding mods will really help.

  • A Tramontina machete will run you about $6. The problem is that once you start buying them its hard to stop. I recommend the 14 inch Bolo, with these mods it is a very versatile blade.

  • Nicely done. Where did you get thpse sharpening stones?

  • The Smiths Tri-Hone I've had for about 20 years. I don't remember where I got it. The EZ-Lap diamond stone I bought in a gunshop.

  • Another great tutorial Mac,Bazil is agreeing with you.

    Look forward to more of your excellent videos.

  • Another well put together lesson. Thoughtful and informative. Good job - and you know, I do not have, nor have I needed a machete to date (northern boreal forest for me), but I like learning about new tools and now I might just have to buy one :)

  • good video and good  ideas,

  • Great modifications. Thanks for sharing.

    BTW - Which machete do you prefer for Northern USA cutting / chopping tasks on bushes, small trees ~1/2-1" thick? Tromontina, Ontario, Gerber, other? What size would you recommend? Why do they make machetes so thin and flexible? Are they made more for vines/grasses than small diameter woody bushes? Appologize for so many questions. Just trying to figure out what type of machete tool would be durable for my needs in a emergency / hunting kit.

  • For North America I like the 12 inch Ontario or the 14 inch Tramontina Bolo. You can't go wrong with either for a general purpose pack chopper.

    Long, light, flexible machetes are best on tall grasses. In tall grass you want a machete with lots of reach that stops on its own rather than having to put on the brakes with the muscles of your forearm.

    Of course of you have 20 inch forearms do whatever you want.

  • Thanks for your advice Colhane. I understand the long and thin concept now.

  • Another great tutorial on machetes Mac! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us! Cant wait to see them machetes in action in the boonies here in Brazil bro!

  • Great Job Dave. Liked how you do the mod :o)

  • Nice job very well done.

  • Great series!

  • Very nice. Great job on explanation. Thank's

  • I am modifying my machete according to your videos. Thank you very much for them!

  • Thanks for these ....your videos are very well done, and greatly appreciated.

  • Great tutorial on this Colhane! Always liked your idea from your fist video about your mods. It seems others on youtube have borrowed it as well! 5/5!!! on YOUR originality!

  • First view and first comment....THANK YOU for your machete videos.

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