Added: 2 years ago
From: Aussie50
Views: 22,003
Sort by time | Sort by thread (beta)

Link to this comment:

Share to:

All Comments (23)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • Hello Aussie50 send a hug from Brazil! Congratulations for the videos! I wonder if you would have the wiring diagram of Fan Motor Fujitsu 12,000 BTU Condenser Condeser Fan Motor Model MFA - 40ARA

    200-240 AC There are 6 Wire A big hug from Brazil!

  • Comment removed

  • пизда рулю(((

  • You know how there is three wires in a 115volt power cord, is it true that you can split the hot wire in two, to make two hot wire conections to a 230volt DC inverter air conditioner? will that work or do i still have to call the elecrical guy?( A/C Unit is a 9,000 BTU Ductless mini split heat pump with a DC inverter compressor and it only draws 15 amps and uses 230volts)

  • the original problem of the burnt connections on the comp may have been just a bad or loose connection causing a high resistance/hot joint!!! the noisy comp, loud clunk and sound of gas equalizing when you switched it of would be because the head/highside pressure was very high as you didnt have the fan shroud on and very little air was passing over the condenser(outdoor heat exchanger) and on heating mode no fan on the condenser(indoor heat exchanger)

    Cheers fellow fridgy

  • @dnlp69 yeah, comp ohmed up fine in the end, it runs about 20 hours a week now and has been fine since.

    even as a complete system it still sounds like the compressor is trying to escape when I shut it off, but all heat pumps I have do that, its just the comp coming to a dead stop @ max pressure. kinda harsh on it but I can't always wait untill the defrost cycle starts.

  • so wait how the hell does this thing heat your shop im a bit confused if you reverse the pump it does the reverse process of cooling and heats

  • @walkingfreak in a reverse cycle system (AKA Heatpump) the compressor works the same as cool mode but the reversing valve directs high temp gas coming out of the compressor to the indoor unit where it condenses in the coils.

    the outdoor unit becomes the evaporator and blasts out cold air.

    I did a good cutaway on a reversing valve a while back.

    search for " HVAC Cycle Reversing Valve Exposed" for more info.

  • i have seen that in NSW (being a warranty agent) my guess is either moisture bad comp or over current.

    assuming it was installed correctly.....!

  • Comp windings passed ohm and megger tests just fine so I'd say it was moisture or inadequate supply wiring

    its heating the shop as I type this so I don't think there is any permanent damage, given its run a few hundred hours now.

  • I wonder what caused the compressor wires to burn out like that? I wonder if the sypply to the unit wasn't powerful enough. When you first fired up the compressor it make a few loud clicking sounds, do you know why?

  • @Lachlant1984 I would say loose connections and vibration got the better of this one, I imagine the compressor windings would have gone if the supply current was too low.

    the clicking was probably the vane in the pump chattering on the rotor, the unit had been laying on its front for a while so oil will have flooded the rotor.

  • any chance of ya doin a video on a city multi?

  • what gases do ye use in da air cons over ther??

  • these are factory charged with R22, the newest systems are charged with R410a

  • mr ed... do u by any chance have a facebook???

  • nah, never been into that sort of thing sorry.

  • are you a refrigeration and air conditioning technician holding a current australian refrigerants license??

  • lol nope, but my uncle and neighbor are, they do the license stuff and I do the rest.

    Thats how I got that system ^ installed in my garage.

  • nice unit. works well. thats a good way to crack a coil putting it in heat when it it frozen up. you should hear my Teco box unit when it stops. the compressor hits the side of the unit. last summer was hard on it.lol

  • yeah, thermal shock is a biatch.

    I wasn't anticipating on using it again for any length of time because my old multimeter was giving funny readings off the windings.

  • Another thing is that due to the fire damage on the terminals, I couldn't tell which terminal was which so i wasn't reading the windings right.

    The run winding has arced over a bit, not a lot but enough to draw more current.

  • What kind of multimeter?

  • just a generic one, I wish i had the money for a Fluke though but budget cuts have canned that.

  • I don't know if they are available in your part of the world, but Innova makes a very good one which doesn't cost too much.

  • thanks man, eventually I'll buy a second one and i'll shop around for that name.

  • Jusr take the electronics out and blow the thing out w a pressure washer ;)

  • I got a can of cleaner today so I'll do a good cleanup and repair on the compressor terminals tomorrow

Loading...
Alert icon
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more