ive used tooling resin and gel.....i find for best results use the same as what your making product with ....tooling gel is to brital ....i use 6060 or 8210 ....i stay away from xl gel ...its ment to be the best ...but i think its crap ....
One of the advantages of Optimold is that the 5 layers mentioned can be applied wet on wet making the lay-up process alot faster without risk of shrinkage.
If using a general purpose polyester resin you would only be able to build up 3 layer max then leave to cure ,sand and apply further layers this is due to exotherm and risk of distortion from shrinkage that you would expect from a general purpose resin.
@GoodScienceForYou Hi Working Time will vary depending on working temperature and catalyst addition. as a rule if adding 1% at 15 - 20 deg C you would expect the curing time to be approx 30min. and at 2% addition of catalyst you would expect approx 20mins. this is based on using a medium reactivity catalyst with a general purpose resin but it is always best to check with the supplier of your resin as some resin types can have a different curing time. Hope this helps
Unfortunately our disk was faulted and we lost coverage of the mould being released, the de-moulding of the product is all that is missing we have still uploaded the video for reference hoping that our viewers can imagine what the final product will look like. we hope to get the chance to film again some time to get the lifting of the product. you can see this mould being used on our channel under vacuum moulding.
we would recomend a safety googles to be worn at all times when using this material also vapour respirators if sufficient extraction or ventilation is not available, this moulding was made in a factory with adequate ventilation overhead extractors and ground floor extraction. Be aware that different countrys have different health and safety regulations for use of this material in europe the maximum amount of exposure is 100ppm over an 8 hour period.
In the last video you were using a different resin? For the first layer? And you say you used 300 gram mat for that. So are you using a different mat now with the non-shrink optimold resin?
Hi kombipode, The initial lay-up with the lighter grade matting (300g) is to ensure a good consolidation to the gelcoat once this initial layer has cured we sand it down wipe with acetone then follow on using a 450g matting.
If the first cured layer of 300g is not sanded, then any fibre splinters upstanding will make consolidation of the secondary layers quite difficult and can cause trapped air between the laminate. the acetone is to prime the area which has been sanded to ensure a good chemical bond.
Yep. You can make a mould from the front side of the seat (the side you sit on) and then your new seat from that mould. Just look up basic mould making techniques here on YouTube.
if i remember corectly the roller is inconsistant compared to the brush, i dont truely remember, ive got a buddy that does this, very slow process! takes patience
In this industry everybody does something that the other does not, this guy has been laminating for over 30 years, it has been suggested to use a small resin roller but he much prefers to use a brush, this is just his preference, his mould work is always 1st class. hope this helps explain, best rgds.
I agree, this is dissapointing as the footage was damaged and would not upload, it came out with ease and mould was prepared successfully and put in production, check out latest video to see this mould actually being used in production, best rgds.
First coat was polyester resin, second was the Optimold tooling resin. Optimold is a very low shrinkage resin ideal for producing moulds and small castings.
1st layer of clear resin, usually 1 layer 300gm-2 mat, is there to make sure all air pockets are laminated out from behind the gel coat before the opaque tooling resin is applied. Air voids behind gel coat are a no no......
Hi below is the workable time Known as the pot life on the technical data sheets which can be found on our website address shown at the end of this video Pot life at 20°C, 1.5% MEKP b/w - 18-22 mins
many thanks. If i was to make a mould for a car bonnet what lay up would you reccommend for the negative mould? Would a fairly flat shape need some type of frame work to prevent distortion on creating a positive mould? Rgrds rich
the mould must be a lot thicker and rigid than the finished item, usually as a rule of thumb, three times the thickness as the finished part is a good indication. On large projects reinforcements, such as angle iron, aluminium, chipboard, and plywood etc can be bonded to the mould for extra strength. Reinforcements should be placed particularly on flanges where stress would arise from levering the finished items from the mould. make sure mould has cured first as bonding ribs ect. rgds ecfibre
The plug featured is made from timber, then primed with a duratec primer, radius fillets are created with plasticene after the primer has been rubbed down to a smooth finish with wet or dry abrasive papers.
Hi desmondvick, we used to hold them at our workshop every month but unfortunately we have had to put them on hold due to lack of space. you can visit our website (details at the end of this video) you will see we have alot of info on a wide range of applications and a wide range of materials.
If you live within the UK we can supply you materials and our advisors are always happy to assist with guiding you through your project by telephone or e-mail.
How much did all the material used in this video cost to make this mold?
saucyjackattak 2 months ago
Hi, it would have been approximately £400.00 , best rgds
ecfibreglassuk 1 month ago
ive used tooling resin and gel.....i find for best results use the same as what your making product with ....tooling gel is to brital ....i use 6060 or 8210 ....i stay away from xl gel ...its ment to be the best ...but i think its crap ....
jasonrenrt 9 months ago
One of the advantages of Optimold is that the 5 layers mentioned can be applied wet on wet making the lay-up process alot faster without risk of shrinkage.
If using a general purpose polyester resin you would only be able to build up 3 layer max then leave to cure ,sand and apply further layers this is due to exotherm and risk of distortion from shrinkage that you would expect from a general purpose resin.
Kind rgds
ecfibreglassuk 11 months ago
when u sayed add 5 layers do mean also that we have to sand it again and again after each layer ???
corvette4554 11 months ago
schuren en daarna met aceeton, en dan zonder filter kapje
schummiehugo 11 months ago
What is the working time on the resin catalyst mix?
GoodScienceForYou 1 year ago
@GoodScienceForYou Hi Working Time will vary depending on working temperature and catalyst addition. as a rule if adding 1% at 15 - 20 deg C you would expect the curing time to be approx 30min. and at 2% addition of catalyst you would expect approx 20mins. this is based on using a medium reactivity catalyst with a general purpose resin but it is always best to check with the supplier of your resin as some resin types can have a different curing time. Hope this helps
ecfibreglassuk 10 months ago
I really like the music that you have here, what is it and whats the band called please?
dozerblade 2 years ago
Artist: Aaron English
Song: Deep Blue Quiet Places
Album: All the Waters of this World - Instrumental
Kind rgds ecfibreglassuk
ecfibreglassuk 2 years ago
Thanks for that music information,I will surely get that CD and also the informative videos you have put together here.
regards Dave
dozerblade 2 years ago
can't believe I just watched all three videos, got to the end and you dont show the finished product from inside what a waste of time.!!!!!!!!
phgt40 2 years ago
Unfortunately our disk was faulted and we lost coverage of the mould being released, the de-moulding of the product is all that is missing we have still uploaded the video for reference hoping that our viewers can imagine what the final product will look like. we hope to get the chance to film again some time to get the lifting of the product. you can see this mould being used on our channel under vacuum moulding.
kind rgds ecfibreglassuk
ecfibreglassuk 2 years ago
eye protection? breathing protection?
TheRooster602 2 years ago
we would recomend a safety googles to be worn at all times when using this material also vapour respirators if sufficient extraction or ventilation is not available, this moulding was made in a factory with adequate ventilation overhead extractors and ground floor extraction. Be aware that different countrys have different health and safety regulations for use of this material in europe the maximum amount of exposure is 100ppm over an 8 hour period.
ecfibreglassuk 2 years ago
In the last video you were using a different resin? For the first layer? And you say you used 300 gram mat for that. So are you using a different mat now with the non-shrink optimold resin?
Thanks.
KombiPode 2 years ago
Hi kombipode, The initial lay-up with the lighter grade matting (300g) is to ensure a good consolidation to the gelcoat once this initial layer has cured we sand it down wipe with acetone then follow on using a 450g matting.
Kind rgds ecfibreglassuk
ecfibreglassuk 2 years ago
Hi, what happens if you dont sand and acetone-wipe the 300gram layer? I know its not needed between layers of the same gram-mat right?
KombiPode 2 years ago
If the first cured layer of 300g is not sanded, then any fibre splinters upstanding will make consolidation of the secondary layers quite difficult and can cause trapped air between the laminate. the acetone is to prime the area which has been sanded to ensure a good chemical bond.
Thanks ecfibreglassuk
ecfibreglassuk 2 years ago
but indeed is a differnt resin..
MIGUEL2005LIMA 2 years ago
ive gt a metal go kart seat and want to make a fibreglass version by coating the back of the seat then pulling it fr the existing seat wud this wrk
josh94HUFC 2 years ago
Yep. You can make a mould from the front side of the seat (the side you sit on) and then your new seat from that mould. Just look up basic mould making techniques here on YouTube.
KombiPode 2 years ago
if i remember corectly the roller is inconsistant compared to the brush, i dont truely remember, ive got a buddy that does this, very slow process! takes patience
mitsoman21 2 years ago
Using a fluffy (roller) would make life alot easier wetting out the mat surely. Compared to a 3 inch brush anyway.
slap4monk 2 years ago
In this industry everybody does something that the other does not, this guy has been laminating for over 30 years, it has been suggested to use a small resin roller but he much prefers to use a brush, this is just his preference, his mould work is always 1st class. hope this helps explain, best rgds.
ecfibreglassuk 2 years ago
The fibres stick to the roller.
KombiPode 2 years ago
How are you going to make us watch 3 10min videos and not even show the mold pulled off the plug.
gogeartactical 2 years ago
I agree, this is dissapointing as the footage was damaged and would not upload, it came out with ease and mould was prepared successfully and put in production, check out latest video to see this mould actually being used in production, best rgds.
ecfibreglassuk 2 years ago
Hi,
Why does the resin look clear on the first lay-up and beige on the next one?
LAWAUTO 2 years ago
First coat was polyester resin, second was the Optimold tooling resin. Optimold is a very low shrinkage resin ideal for producing moulds and small castings.
skipticker 2 years ago
1st layer of clear resin, usually 1 layer 300gm-2 mat, is there to make sure all air pockets are laminated out from behind the gel coat before the opaque tooling resin is applied. Air voids behind gel coat are a no no......
only1eebo 2 years ago
Hi what is the usable working time of the optimold before it cures too much to be applied by brush, roughly in minutes?
regards
sedicirich 2 years ago
Hi below is the workable time Known as the pot life on the technical data sheets which can be found on our website address shown at the end of this video Pot life at 20°C, 1.5% MEKP b/w - 18-22 mins
rgds ecfibreglasssupplies
ecfibreglassuk 2 years ago
many thanks. If i was to make a mould for a car bonnet what lay up would you reccommend for the negative mould? Would a fairly flat shape need some type of frame work to prevent distortion on creating a positive mould? Rgrds rich
sedicirich 2 years ago
the mould must be a lot thicker and rigid than the finished item, usually as a rule of thumb, three times the thickness as the finished part is a good indication. On large projects reinforcements, such as angle iron, aluminium, chipboard, and plywood etc can be bonded to the mould for extra strength. Reinforcements should be placed particularly on flanges where stress would arise from levering the finished items from the mould. make sure mould has cured first as bonding ribs ect. rgds ecfibre
ecfibreglassuk 2 years ago
what material do you use for the plug?
brittenv1000 3 years ago
The plug featured is made from timber, then primed with a duratec primer, radius fillets are created with plasticene after the primer has been rubbed down to a smooth finish with wet or dry abrasive papers.
rgds ecfibreglasssupplies
ecfibreglassuk 2 years ago
can i be ur student apprentice in ur shop?
markzpurcz 3 years ago
where do I go to learn Fiber glass molding
desmondvick 3 years ago
Hi desmondvick, we used to hold them at our workshop every month but unfortunately we have had to put them on hold due to lack of space. you can visit our website (details at the end of this video) you will see we have alot of info on a wide range of applications and a wide range of materials.
If you live within the UK we can supply you materials and our advisors are always happy to assist with guiding you through your project by telephone or e-mail.
rgds ecfibreglassuk
ecfibreglassuk 3 years ago
very interresing thanx
djmikeshake 3 years ago
East Coast Fibreglass rocks :> gaz
CASTLEWEIRD 3 years ago
if ur not in a booth whodunit u get like real hi?
gremlinkiller 3 years ago