I actually went from a 220 to a 600 to a 800 to a 1000 to a 2000 and the bolt is literally a mirror finish. Then when I oiled it up, my eyes melted out of my skull. Great video!
Good video on bolt polishing. I have one question about the bolt head locking lugs and the corresponding chamber lugs. After polishing either one (or both during lapping) shouldn't you recheck headspacing? Thanks again for the infomative video!
@KentuckyHunt3r A Mosin isn't a "precision" rifle if you will. They were designed to be able to use any part from any other rifle if necessary. So headspace typically isn't an issue with MN rifles. If it's cycling and no exorbitant amount of force is needed to cycle the action, then it's probably something you don't need to worry about. But if you're in doubt about it, take it somewhere and have it checked out! I'm still waiting to hear about headspace issues with Mosins.
@xxtruckin93xx Do you have any pictures or a vid of it? Are you sure they aren't there, and just ground flush? Need a little more info to see what's going on!
@rawimpact I think the stock is worse than fender kits you can get for Civics. I'd put this rifle up against any Russian 91/30 you have, with irons, and see who comes out with the tightest group at 100 yds :) Optics are better than irons at any distance on any rifle. How could someone not shoot better when they can see their target much closer, and not have the post covering up half the target? Granted the mounts weren't very expensive, they aren't "cheap" for what they are though.
@MarshalZhukov Hah, i actually spent my money on an authentic mosin sniper, not a plastic mold stock. Seeing closer is not always better. And with a shit scope like that done be surprised if you lose your zero. Your mounts are for airsoft, no where near for 308 or similar caliber. I'm just going to stop here...
@rawimpact Authentic is good, and I don't know why seeing closer wouldn't be better on a fixed target in a controlled setting. No issues with scope zero or scope mounts. If you think irons are better than optics, why did you buy an "authentic Mosin sniper"? Prove they are better, lets see some videos of this on your channel.
@MarshalZhukov Now you're putting words in my mouth, do you lack reading comprehension? Where did i say irons are better than optics? You're taking this case/situation and generalizing. With a proper setup including correct base, mount and optics it can outperform iron sights. A scope that can't hold zero is as good as being blind. And although the scope itself doesn't move relative to the rifle, internals do. With a 308 or similar round it can tear apart cheap scopes iike NC star.
@rawimpact Maybe I "generalized" slightly. If you think irons are better than this optic that I have on my rifle, prove it. If you have an iron sight rifle that will shoot better, lets see it. There is no other method to adding a scope to any of my milsurp rifles I am willing to do than this. I don't want a permanent modification. But you can't speak for my scope's zero. It is a pistol scope, so it should be able to handle some recoil. I have not seen any adverse effects yet from this.
@MarshalZhukov There is no method and there never will be one for a reason. People who upgrade mosin parts are ruining a piece of history. They are battle rifles that have served their time, i dislike separating the parts. People who do your type of mosin work could have saved that money and bought a cheap bolt action that can out shoot your mosin all day and maybe even at night. I can say looking at your rifle it would cost 300 or so, for that price a nice marlin or weatherby can be had.
@rawimpact I do agree that people who upgrade are ruining history. But it depends on what method they use. If they drill and tap, I'm out. But something that is reversible that can be put back to original condition, I have no qualms about. I'm not even out $100 for this in extras (scope, mounts and stock), and sure I could have bought another Mosin for that, but I wanted something different to experiment with. I do have a Boyd's stock, and that is an additional cost, but that is in the future.
@rawimpact I am well aware these mounts are for .22 or air rifles, but they are the only ones that will fit the diameter of the grooves under the rear sight base, so of course that limits the types of mounts that can be used. I have seen some other ones that may work better, but until these show signs of failure, I will continue to use them then possibly try something else if this is a modification I would like to continue to have.
@marshalzhukov so i put my monte carlo stock on and and first it fit without sanding but i literally had to pop the barrel and everything in the stock. Everything was fine untill i shot it then the barrel kept poping out of the front and i noticed the inside of the stock made the entire barrel and everything slightly tilt to the right so the barrel and everything is tilted. what should i do?
@gaveen666 You're going to have to remove material if the stock is warped. I doubt the rifle barrel is warped. Is it an ATI stock? I hate them, they are garbage.
@MarshalZhukov yeah the rifle barrel isnt warped but the end of the stock is yeah its an ati and there is excess material inside thats making the barrel sit all weird
thanks for the info im redoing my M91/30 and i thought i had to buy the cheap rail that goes in the rear sight.. but i guess not thanks again...... what kind of scope will i need
@Nagant1993 Of course. 91/30s are all made the same. M91s are all made the same as well. M38, M44, M91/38s all made the same, and have a sleeve so rear sight slides on the barrel and is pinned in place. The 91/59 carbine is a cut down 91/30, and retains the 91/30 rear sight and dovetail, with distances from 1100-2000M milled off.
If when you don't have a round chambered, wether the bolt is cocked or not the bolt is relatively easy to work, but when you have a round (or casing) chambered, even if the bolt is cocked the last like 15 degrees of bolt turn (where the bolt kinda clicks in place before fully opening) is extremely hard (like hit it hard with a good grip on the rifle or no results). Is this a bolt problem? or a chamber problem? Could it possibly be a headspacing issue?
@gaveen666 It will help to sand the barrel channel. There are no handguards on ATI rifles. Handguards sit atop the barrel, like the military version stocks. You might consider also corking it. Slight upward pressure helps out barrel harmonics. However, it might take some experimentation with and without the corking piece, and sanding to determine how accurate it can get.
@MarshalZhukov yeah thats what i ment couldnt quite find the word haha so sand the barrel channel and just put a tiny cork piece towards the end? thanks for the info
I was looking at three mosins today and a held off. When you lift the bolt up is it supposed to click two times and then slide up and down. One mosins bolt went up and down freely and the other two were harder to lift the bolt before you slid it back.
@SuperJetski1 Well there will always be more tension on a bolt when you open it after fired or in the not cocked position, as the bolt body has to cock past the spring tension. If you open the bolt when it is already cocked, it's easier but there is still a "2 stage" opening process when it almost opens all the way and clicks. Opening in the not cocked position is one fluid motion from close to open with no clicks. But in either case, closing the bolt is a "2 stage" process as it clicks on close
@SuperJetski1 Well, if you think that's cheap, wait until you find some Bulgarian light ball surplus. That stuff is cheap compared to the 20 you bought. It is corrosive, so you'll want to clean accordingly. But a good cleaning and you shouldn't have any problems.
@remeclerk Sounds very odd. Any gun you shoot bullets out of will have a warm barrel. Define overheating. If I shoot 10 rounds out of a rifle, in relatively quick succession, the barrel will be warm. I don't know how hot, because I try not to touch barrels after shooting them. I found out the hard way with my Remington M91 that didn't have a handguard. Every other rifle I have has one, except that one! Figured out it was hot quick after 15 or 20 rds through it with no breaks and a hot day!
@MarshalZhukov Tks MZ, im ex military and it puzzled me too, its so hot you cant touch the barrel, I wonder if its because im using a mix of ammunition?????, regards Steve
@MarshalZhukov Also i tend to use 'Rapid fire' as taught on the .303 when I was in the British Army,could that too be at fault?(.303 was sued before we were allowed to 'play' with the FALFN)..tks again..Steve
@violenceinc Sure, but it's much easier with a buffing wheel. You'll want to progressively increase grit, from start at like 220, to 400 and more even than that. Then use some chrome polish or something to continue to shine the metal on the parts you have already sanded. It will take some work, but it can be done. A dremel with a polishing wheel would be great for this too.
@MarshalZhukov ok and thx for a quick reply. my bolt is a real pain in the butt those teeth on the bolt body and cocking knob are a bit tough to cycle for me.
@MarshalZhukov wow everything worked out great much smoother action thank you. ive a new question, is it alright to polish the whole bolt assembly with a dremmel and polishing paste to make it shiny, just for cosmetic pusposes.
@violenceinc Well it's your rifle, so it's your own prerogative to what you will do. I'd say if it's a collectible rifle, definitely not. But if it's a 91/30, then there are so many of them, it won't hurt anything. What is the arsenal and date stamp of the rifle?
@MarshalZhukov im not sure of the aresenal its just another 91/30 1943 someone had it before me they had spraypainted some parts and redone the finish so i figure its not worth anything now but what i meant to ask is would a polishing paste damage the bolt assembly at all like is it a polishable metal?
@violenceinc It's an Izhevsk. Triangle with arrow inside of it is Izhevsk during the WWII era. 1943 Izhevsk 91/30s are the most produced model of any year of Mosin Nagant production, so it won't hurt anything to polish it up all you want. Any metal is polishable, so go nuts. You'll just want to use progressive higher grit sandpaper, so when you use like a 600 grit, then hit it with a polishing wheel, it will really shine. Glad it's turning out for you. How about a vid of it when you're all done?
@BareTreeBrewingCo The rear sight is pinned to the dovetail. It can also be soldered, and held in place with a set screw or any combination of the aforementioned. M91s, ex-Dragoons, 91/30s, and 91/59s will have a dovetail beneath the rear sight. The 91/30 style sights were installed later on Dragoon rifles, giving them the status of "ex" Dragoons as the original sights on the Dragoons matched that of the M91 style. The rifle in question on this vid is a 1943 Izhevsk 91/30. Not an ex-Dragoon.
i went with the ati stock and had a smith do the tap and mount for mine. i've got a 3-9x40mm with an adjustable 5.5" ler on it and it's just perfect sittin on the rear slots of the chamber mount. i also had BoltMan do my bent bolt and polishing for that type of stock and i just love it. also, leaving a thin layer of rem oil with teflon does wonders on these bolts. a friend of mine was amazed at how well my bolt just slides back on it's own when you unlock the bolt and tilt it backwards lol
Hey, I just wanted to let you know. I have a Tula 91/30 1940( with the 2 pin system). I purchased it from my local Gander mountain outdoor store for $100 even. It is 100% matching from barrel to butt plate. Great tips for the bolt Thanks!
So there is a dovetail under the rear sight that you mounted your scope to? I just noticed on mine tonight before I watched this vid that it had 2 pins that would just pop out to remove it. Mines 1941.
@huntwithairguns yes, it is under all MN M91, 91/30 and 91/59 carbines. The M44 and M38 have sleeves that hold on the rear sight that slide over the barrel. 1941 sounds like it might fall in to the category of no solder. If that is the case and you want to scout mount, then thats a good option. Izhevsk rifle I presume.
Yep Izhevsk. Curiosity got the best of me so I had to check it out for myself. The front pin came out nicely but the rear one is being a pain in the ass.
ditto with the rouge! I find the Dremel with the soft polishing wheels are the best for polishing ANYTHING! If you dont have the rouge, or dont like it, use BLUE METAL POLISH. Works equally well if not better
i use a dremal to do my polliishing... i cant seem to find a stone that wont eat away the bolt i want chrome finish but cant get it with buffing wheel
I am going to clean the reciever to get the cosmoline out, but should I leave the cosmoline on the outside to protect the rest of the rifle from the elements?
You could if you wanted, but when you take the rifle out of the stock, it will just get all over your hands anyways, or if you are wearing gloves, then its all over your gloves. I'd say just clean it all down, and if you're storing it in a dry place, you won't have to worry about anything. Its if you got water in the stock, and let it sit for a long time that will start the rusting problems. So if it does get wet, you take it out of the stock and dry it out.
Clean clean clean clean the chamber! Make sure the chamber is free of any oils, dried up cosmolene and any other debris from storage. The other big thing is cleaning inside the receiver where the bolt head lock in to battery. If you have skinny fingers, that will help. But use an old thin rag, or cleaning patches, toothpicks, dental picks, Qtips anything you can get in there to clean it out. Try to get light in there, and clean as much crap and nasty stuff out you can.
It is also a good idea to make sure the bolt is good and clean, free of any old dried up cosmolene, and oiled. Mineral spirits works for cleaning the chamber and bolt. I have used carb cleaner, and CLP. If you use carb cleaner, take the action out of the stock. But it is most likely a matter of gunk still hiding in side the receiver that is binding up. If that doesn't help, try cocking before working the bolt to remove a spent case, it ought to make it a little easier. I think a vid can happen.
Sure, a dremel tool would work, but only with a soft polishing wheel on it with some compound or rouge to polish the surfaces that touch. Just don't use any of the sanding wheels, as that could gouge and damage the surfaces. Sandpaper is the best way to begin the polishing process. Plus, your finger will conform to the shape of the surfaces sanding better too. It won't take much sanding, you'll be able to see the surface change when you take sandpaper to it.
I actually went from a 220 to a 600 to a 800 to a 1000 to a 2000 and the bolt is literally a mirror finish. Then when I oiled it up, my eyes melted out of my skull. Great video!
Deathofblades 1 day ago
Good video on bolt polishing. I have one question about the bolt head locking lugs and the corresponding chamber lugs. After polishing either one (or both during lapping) shouldn't you recheck headspacing? Thanks again for the infomative video!
KentuckyHunt3r 2 months ago
@KentuckyHunt3r A Mosin isn't a "precision" rifle if you will. They were designed to be able to use any part from any other rifle if necessary. So headspace typically isn't an issue with MN rifles. If it's cycling and no exorbitant amount of force is needed to cycle the action, then it's probably something you don't need to worry about. But if you're in doubt about it, take it somewhere and have it checked out! I'm still waiting to hear about headspace issues with Mosins.
MarshalZhukov 2 months ago
@KentuckyHunt3r Hope that helps, and if you ever have any other questions you know what to do :)
MarshalZhukov 2 months ago
why didnt u just buy the rail set?
clscloud 5 months ago
@clscloud Which one?
MarshalZhukov 5 months ago
i love van halen
TKKskynyrd 7 months ago
i need help my mosin doesnt have the 2 pins on the sight
xxtruckin93xx 8 months ago
@xxtruckin93xx Do you have any pictures or a vid of it? Are you sure they aren't there, and just ground flush? Need a little more info to see what's going on!
MarshalZhukov 8 months ago
@MarshalZhukov i do have a vid its a 1936 mosin round recv
xxtruckin93xx 8 months ago
@xxtruckin93xx Skipped right over it! Left you a comment there. Need better video or pics of the rear sight.
MarshalZhukov 8 months ago
@MarshalZhukov ok vid up
xxtruckin93xx 8 months ago
this rifle is dressed like a civic with a bunch of pepboys/kragen parts
all for looks, none for function. Your ironsights would have been a lot more effective then that cheap scope on 22lr mounts
rawimpact 10 months ago
@rawimpact I think the stock is worse than fender kits you can get for Civics. I'd put this rifle up against any Russian 91/30 you have, with irons, and see who comes out with the tightest group at 100 yds :) Optics are better than irons at any distance on any rifle. How could someone not shoot better when they can see their target much closer, and not have the post covering up half the target? Granted the mounts weren't very expensive, they aren't "cheap" for what they are though.
MarshalZhukov 10 months ago
@MarshalZhukov Hah, i actually spent my money on an authentic mosin sniper, not a plastic mold stock. Seeing closer is not always better. And with a shit scope like that done be surprised if you lose your zero. Your mounts are for airsoft, no where near for 308 or similar caliber. I'm just going to stop here...
rawimpact 10 months ago
@rawimpact Authentic is good, and I don't know why seeing closer wouldn't be better on a fixed target in a controlled setting. No issues with scope zero or scope mounts. If you think irons are better than optics, why did you buy an "authentic Mosin sniper"? Prove they are better, lets see some videos of this on your channel.
MarshalZhukov 10 months ago
@MarshalZhukov Now you're putting words in my mouth, do you lack reading comprehension? Where did i say irons are better than optics? You're taking this case/situation and generalizing. With a proper setup including correct base, mount and optics it can outperform iron sights. A scope that can't hold zero is as good as being blind. And although the scope itself doesn't move relative to the rifle, internals do. With a 308 or similar round it can tear apart cheap scopes iike NC star.
rawimpact 10 months ago
@rawimpact Maybe I "generalized" slightly. If you think irons are better than this optic that I have on my rifle, prove it. If you have an iron sight rifle that will shoot better, lets see it. There is no other method to adding a scope to any of my milsurp rifles I am willing to do than this. I don't want a permanent modification. But you can't speak for my scope's zero. It is a pistol scope, so it should be able to handle some recoil. I have not seen any adverse effects yet from this.
MarshalZhukov 10 months ago
@MarshalZhukov There is no method and there never will be one for a reason. People who upgrade mosin parts are ruining a piece of history. They are battle rifles that have served their time, i dislike separating the parts. People who do your type of mosin work could have saved that money and bought a cheap bolt action that can out shoot your mosin all day and maybe even at night. I can say looking at your rifle it would cost 300 or so, for that price a nice marlin or weatherby can be had.
rawimpact 10 months ago
@rawimpact I do agree that people who upgrade are ruining history. But it depends on what method they use. If they drill and tap, I'm out. But something that is reversible that can be put back to original condition, I have no qualms about. I'm not even out $100 for this in extras (scope, mounts and stock), and sure I could have bought another Mosin for that, but I wanted something different to experiment with. I do have a Boyd's stock, and that is an additional cost, but that is in the future.
MarshalZhukov 10 months ago
@rawimpact I am well aware these mounts are for .22 or air rifles, but they are the only ones that will fit the diameter of the grooves under the rear sight base, so of course that limits the types of mounts that can be used. I have seen some other ones that may work better, but until these show signs of failure, I will continue to use them then possibly try something else if this is a modification I would like to continue to have.
MarshalZhukov 10 months ago
@marshalzhukov so i put my monte carlo stock on and and first it fit without sanding but i literally had to pop the barrel and everything in the stock. Everything was fine untill i shot it then the barrel kept poping out of the front and i noticed the inside of the stock made the entire barrel and everything slightly tilt to the right so the barrel and everything is tilted. what should i do?
gaveen666 1 year ago
@gaveen666 You're going to have to remove material if the stock is warped. I doubt the rifle barrel is warped. Is it an ATI stock? I hate them, they are garbage.
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
@MarshalZhukov yeah the rifle barrel isnt warped but the end of the stock is yeah its an ati and there is excess material inside thats making the barrel sit all weird
gaveen666 1 year ago
I have a 1944 Tula unissued sniper and it has the silver solder and 2 pins holding the rear sight assembly on.
gyhalacsy 1 year ago
thanks for the info im redoing my M91/30 and i thought i had to buy the cheap rail that goes in the rear sight.. but i guess not thanks again...... what kind of scope will i need
Nagant1993 1 year ago
@Nagant1993 Check out NC Star. At any rate, you'll need a long eye relief scope.
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
so does the Mosin Nagant made by Tula have a dove tale base under the rear sight
Nagant1993 1 year ago
@Nagant1993 Of course. 91/30s are all made the same. M91s are all made the same as well. M38, M44, M91/38s all made the same, and have a sleeve so rear sight slides on the barrel and is pinned in place. The 91/59 carbine is a cut down 91/30, and retains the 91/30 rear sight and dovetail, with distances from 1100-2000M milled off.
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
If when you don't have a round chambered, wether the bolt is cocked or not the bolt is relatively easy to work, but when you have a round (or casing) chambered, even if the bolt is cocked the last like 15 degrees of bolt turn (where the bolt kinda clicks in place before fully opening) is extremely hard (like hit it hard with a good grip on the rifle or no results). Is this a bolt problem? or a chamber problem? Could it possibly be a headspacing issue?
Anyone? Give me your 2 cents.
ImWatchinTheTube 1 year ago
@ImWatchinTheTube Could be headspace or an extractor problem. Do you have more than one bolt head or bolt to try out?
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
@MarshalZhukov No just one bolt head, and it's serial # matches the barrel.
ImWatchinTheTube 1 year ago
@MarshalZhukov if i sand the handguard on the monte carlo where the barrel sits wil tha make it a floating barrel?
gaveen666 1 year ago
@gaveen666 It will help to sand the barrel channel. There are no handguards on ATI rifles. Handguards sit atop the barrel, like the military version stocks. You might consider also corking it. Slight upward pressure helps out barrel harmonics. However, it might take some experimentation with and without the corking piece, and sanding to determine how accurate it can get.
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
@MarshalZhukov yeah thats what i ment couldnt quite find the word haha so sand the barrel channel and just put a tiny cork piece towards the end? thanks for the info
gaveen666 1 year ago
KZOK alright man a washingtonian...!
0122358 1 year ago
I was looking at three mosins today and a held off. When you lift the bolt up is it supposed to click two times and then slide up and down. One mosins bolt went up and down freely and the other two were harder to lift the bolt before you slid it back.
SuperJetski1 1 year ago
@SuperJetski1 Well there will always be more tension on a bolt when you open it after fired or in the not cocked position, as the bolt body has to cock past the spring tension. If you open the bolt when it is already cocked, it's easier but there is still a "2 stage" opening process when it almost opens all the way and clicks. Opening in the not cocked position is one fluid motion from close to open with no clicks. But in either case, closing the bolt is a "2 stage" process as it clicks on close
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
@MarshalZhukov Thanks, that was very helpful. I just picked one up for $89. I was suprised how cheap the ammo was, about 10 bucks for 20
SuperJetski1 1 year ago
@SuperJetski1 Well, if you think that's cheap, wait until you find some Bulgarian light ball surplus. That stuff is cheap compared to the 20 you bought. It is corrosive, so you'll want to clean accordingly. But a good cleaning and you shouldn't have any problems.
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
@SuperJetski1 dude! thats pricy! you can get cheap surplus ammo for $90 for 440 rounds.
annasajerk 1 year ago
@annasajerk where ya get your surplus?
SqualTheTitan 1 year ago
@SqualTheTitan Surplus rifles or parts?
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
@SqualTheTitan j&gsales.com
annasajerk 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@MarshalZhukov Thanks, that was very helpful. I just picked one up for $89. I was suprised how cheap the ammo was, about 10 bucks for 20.
SuperJetski1 1 year ago
guys I have a 1939 original russain snipers version, but it 'overheats' after 10 rounds, the barrel gets really hot, any ideas???????...cheers steve
remeclerk 1 year ago
@remeclerk Sounds very odd. Any gun you shoot bullets out of will have a warm barrel. Define overheating. If I shoot 10 rounds out of a rifle, in relatively quick succession, the barrel will be warm. I don't know how hot, because I try not to touch barrels after shooting them. I found out the hard way with my Remington M91 that didn't have a handguard. Every other rifle I have has one, except that one! Figured out it was hot quick after 15 or 20 rds through it with no breaks and a hot day!
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
@MarshalZhukov Tks MZ, im ex military and it puzzled me too, its so hot you cant touch the barrel, I wonder if its because im using a mix of ammunition?????, regards Steve
remeclerk 1 year ago
@MarshalZhukov Also i tend to use 'Rapid fire' as taught on the .303 when I was in the British Army,could that too be at fault?(.303 was sued before we were allowed to 'play' with the FALFN)..tks again..Steve
remeclerk 1 year ago
@swatcapt11 All non-permanent modifications. No worries.
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
is there anyway to polish by hand?
violenceinc 1 year ago
@violenceinc Sure, but it's much easier with a buffing wheel. You'll want to progressively increase grit, from start at like 220, to 400 and more even than that. Then use some chrome polish or something to continue to shine the metal on the parts you have already sanded. It will take some work, but it can be done. A dremel with a polishing wheel would be great for this too.
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
@MarshalZhukov ok and thx for a quick reply. my bolt is a real pain in the butt those teeth on the bolt body and cocking knob are a bit tough to cycle for me.
violenceinc 1 year ago
@MarshalZhukov wow everything worked out great much smoother action thank you. ive a new question, is it alright to polish the whole bolt assembly with a dremmel and polishing paste to make it shiny, just for cosmetic pusposes.
violenceinc 1 year ago
@violenceinc Well it's your rifle, so it's your own prerogative to what you will do. I'd say if it's a collectible rifle, definitely not. But if it's a 91/30, then there are so many of them, it won't hurt anything. What is the arsenal and date stamp of the rifle?
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
@MarshalZhukov im not sure of the aresenal its just another 91/30 1943 someone had it before me they had spraypainted some parts and redone the finish so i figure its not worth anything now but what i meant to ask is would a polishing paste damage the bolt assembly at all like is it a polishable metal?
violenceinc 1 year ago
@violenceinc It's an Izhevsk. Triangle with arrow inside of it is Izhevsk during the WWII era. 1943 Izhevsk 91/30s are the most produced model of any year of Mosin Nagant production, so it won't hurt anything to polish it up all you want. Any metal is polishable, so go nuts. You'll just want to use progressive higher grit sandpaper, so when you use like a 600 grit, then hit it with a polishing wheel, it will really shine. Glad it's turning out for you. How about a vid of it when you're all done?
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
jeez, love that stock reminiscent of the 700
delta2131 1 year ago
so was the rear sight attached to that dove tail? Or was that installed afterwards?
BareTreeBrewingCo 1 year ago
@BareTreeBrewingCo The rear sight is pinned to the dovetail. It can also be soldered, and held in place with a set screw or any combination of the aforementioned. M91s, ex-Dragoons, 91/30s, and 91/59s will have a dovetail beneath the rear sight. The 91/30 style sights were installed later on Dragoon rifles, giving them the status of "ex" Dragoons as the original sights on the Dragoons matched that of the M91 style. The rifle in question on this vid is a 1943 Izhevsk 91/30. Not an ex-Dragoon.
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
i went with the ati stock and had a smith do the tap and mount for mine. i've got a 3-9x40mm with an adjustable 5.5" ler on it and it's just perfect sittin on the rear slots of the chamber mount. i also had BoltMan do my bent bolt and polishing for that type of stock and i just love it. also, leaving a thin layer of rem oil with teflon does wonders on these bolts. a friend of mine was amazed at how well my bolt just slides back on it's own when you unlock the bolt and tilt it backwards lol
CmdrALF 1 year ago
Hey, I just wanted to let you know. I have a Tula 91/30 1940( with the 2 pin system). I purchased it from my local Gander mountain outdoor store for $100 even. It is 100% matching from barrel to butt plate. Great tips for the bolt Thanks!
JuansRevenge 2 years ago
Very nice. Sounds like a great purchase. Will be interested to hear how it shoots!
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
So there is a dovetail under the rear sight that you mounted your scope to? I just noticed on mine tonight before I watched this vid that it had 2 pins that would just pop out to remove it. Mines 1941.
huntwithairguns 2 years ago
@huntwithairguns yes, it is under all MN M91, 91/30 and 91/59 carbines. The M44 and M38 have sleeves that hold on the rear sight that slide over the barrel. 1941 sounds like it might fall in to the category of no solder. If that is the case and you want to scout mount, then thats a good option. Izhevsk rifle I presume.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
Yep Izhevsk. Curiosity got the best of me so I had to check it out for myself. The front pin came out nicely but the rear one is being a pain in the ass.
huntwithairguns 2 years ago
ditto with the rouge! I find the Dremel with the soft polishing wheels are the best for polishing ANYTHING! If you dont have the rouge, or dont like it, use BLUE METAL POLISH. Works equally well if not better
Gurkharecon129 2 years ago
i use a dremal to do my polliishing... i cant seem to find a stone that wont eat away the bolt i want chrome finish but cant get it with buffing wheel
dills2403 2 years ago
I am going to clean the reciever to get the cosmoline out, but should I leave the cosmoline on the outside to protect the rest of the rifle from the elements?
joshhh100001 2 years ago
You could if you wanted, but when you take the rifle out of the stock, it will just get all over your hands anyways, or if you are wearing gloves, then its all over your gloves. I'd say just clean it all down, and if you're storing it in a dry place, you won't have to worry about anything. Its if you got water in the stock, and let it sit for a long time that will start the rusting problems. So if it does get wet, you take it out of the stock and dry it out.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
Could you show a video on how to cure sticky bolt syndrome for a m91/30 mosin or do you have any suggestions
angelakazca 2 years ago
Clean clean clean clean the chamber! Make sure the chamber is free of any oils, dried up cosmolene and any other debris from storage. The other big thing is cleaning inside the receiver where the bolt head lock in to battery. If you have skinny fingers, that will help. But use an old thin rag, or cleaning patches, toothpicks, dental picks, Qtips anything you can get in there to clean it out. Try to get light in there, and clean as much crap and nasty stuff out you can.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
It is also a good idea to make sure the bolt is good and clean, free of any old dried up cosmolene, and oiled. Mineral spirits works for cleaning the chamber and bolt. I have used carb cleaner, and CLP. If you use carb cleaner, take the action out of the stock. But it is most likely a matter of gunk still hiding in side the receiver that is binding up. If that doesn't help, try cocking before working the bolt to remove a spent case, it ought to make it a little easier. I think a vid can happen.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
Instead of sandpaper,,what do you think of using a Dremel tool?
b2flyer1 2 years ago
Sure, a dremel tool would work, but only with a soft polishing wheel on it with some compound or rouge to polish the surfaces that touch. Just don't use any of the sanding wheels, as that could gouge and damage the surfaces. Sandpaper is the best way to begin the polishing process. Plus, your finger will conform to the shape of the surfaces sanding better too. It won't take much sanding, you'll be able to see the surface change when you take sandpaper to it.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
I demand a video about the bagpipes!
Iraqveteran8888 2 years ago
I certainly wish I did decide to get some. But, I never got any so now no one will suffer.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
I did the same thing using a dremel buffing wheel with red rouge. What a difference it made and it only took about 10 minutes.
Ocyris4 2 years ago
Yea thats a good way to do it too. Any way you can get it polished up will really help out the trigger pull.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago