I looked it up on line and saw a couple sources say that it protects your pipes if you're using plastic water lines in your home. I don't know either way, just was thinking about that TP Valve and how it is on a regular water heater.
That's a darned good looking job you done on installing that by the way. Looks great!
@kantucky Thanks a lot. And thanks for the info on the valve. Thats the kind of info I like to store away deep into my brain box for later :) I love learning something new. Thanks again.
Nice clean installation. This particular unit is not designed to produce condensate. Exhaust gas temps when running on high are about 300-350 f. More than 5' horizontal vent run or verticle venting may produce a thimble full of condensate on continued low fire situations. To determine correct gas line sizing search The National Fuel Gas Code,use the table for black pipe or flex pipe if that is what your house uses. Check with your utility to make sure you have a large enough regulator and meter.
@lakewood85 Yeah, I did not know that about the condensation, but it makes sense because I've never noticed ANY water in the line. I checked for any blockages and to make sure it was working right, but there is just never any water. After the install I had a gas worker out to the house to check the regulator and gas pressure with the furnace and water heater running at the same time and it was more than fine. Thanks for the comment :)
Noticed that your safety vent drain pipe is short. Code may require that to terminate not more than 6 inches from the basement floor. Some states require it to be terminated over a trapped drain. Valves required to and from appliance. You are right about dedicated circuit. 14/2 and 15A should be good. Condensate must be piped to drain, Washing machine standpipe is OK so long as there is an airgap on the tubing. If necessary pipe to an electric condensate pump.
@gregoryrryan Yeah, thats exactly what I did too. A few months after this video I had a High efficient furnace installed. The installers connected the condensation tube into the newly installed electric pump for me. Oddly, I never get ANY condensation from the Vent though. I do from the furnace, but not the water heater. Perhaps because the vent is so short? I don't know. And I have a question. Did you mean safety VALVE drain pipe? Because if not....I don't know what that is, and I'm concerned.
@klungoo Yes, your safety valve drain pipe. The reason being is that if it goes off and anyone is standing near by, they'll be burnt by the escaping steam/water (if it does go off, that water will be far hotter than it ever is normally). by bringing it to the floor, you lessen the chance of anyone being burnt
@kantucky Oh ok I got ya. That makes sense. But just so you know why it is that way, The sales rep who sold me this particular unit (who claimed to be a certified plumber) Told me the unit did not required an additional safety valve because there is one built in. I put one on anyways. Though, What I don't understand it how it would ever go off. I'm not storing any hot water and it doesnt start heating until it senses water flow. So I just put it on for added safety anyways. But it's good to know
Hi Klungoo, do you need a new gas line to install the heater? I want to install one just like you and I don't know if I need a wider gas line. Thanks for the video.
@cpsadp99 Well first I'm no pro at this and you should consult with someone who is. For me, I already had a sufficient gas line. I found that information by reading a ton. I think a 3/4 line is pretty standard but it may depend on the unit you end up buying. Also keep in mind the distance that the gas line has to go, because that will have a lot to do with the diameter of the line where the gas enters your home. Find out how many BTUs you'll need, how much pressure you need. continue ->
I did have to change the line from a 1/2 to a 3/4, but I got lucky because the furnace had a 3/4 line and I was able to pull off that. The furnace only needs a 1/2. I DID have both the new furnace and water heater tested to make sure they both were getting a sufficient amount of gas. I tested the water heater while the furnace was running and visa versa. So you should find the amount of pressure+ BTU's you need first. Ask the manufacturer of the unit you want and find what you need. Good Luck.
not a bad set up except for the water connections you need bypass valves and hard pipe it in thos flex lines look like garbage and they are they will leak within a 2 year period ooh and u forgot a prefilter cuz without one you will ruin the coils
@SuperPlumber420 It's been 1 1/2 years since I installed the flex lines and they are still as solid as the day I put them in. I have a hard time believing that they will suddenly start to leak in 6 months. I also had the water tested before the install to see if it was too hard/soft and if I would require a prefilter. My point is, I looked into all of that, and did extensive research on everything before jumping in. Can you explain your critiques? Or should I just take your word for it?
@klungoo I agree with you on everything but the comment about not needing a prefilter.... I dont know of any municipal water system that does not have sediment... have you looked a videos of water tanks being cut open here?.... there's no tank for the sediment to settle to the bottom in so essentially it either gets hung up in the exchanger or passes thru it, sandblasting and wearing the interior of the exchanger as it does it. If your water is soft you dont have to worry about lime scale.
@fathergratwick Thanks, This was an informative, and helpful comment. I'll go back an test the water again. If I do need the filter, it should not be to hard to instal. Do you have any suggestions on a filter? I might not have gotten everything right, but it helps to know why. Thanks :)
@sakitlikod1 I bought them at Home Depot. They are a 3/4 in. Female to female flex hose. The hoses did not specify weather they were OD or ID. And I can't stress enough how much I loved the "Shark Bite" style connectors. Ask the plumbing expert at Home Depot about all of this. The set up is very simple and easy to use. Good luck, let me know if I can answer anymore of your questions.
Thanks so much for that this is the reason I seek this sort of info I am a drainlayer & water servicemen maintenance who repair bulk water mains to feed public, I am not a plumber who are qualify at this line of work. I have the confidence an knowledge all I need is point of direction an you have given along with many other video clips thank you for your knowlegde qualified or registered plumbing might tend to disagree which is understandable.
Hi your venting goes up toward the cieling cause its to dark can't see where takes off to does it go up threw floor or does it 90 degree out the side thanks.
@blueange1s Hey thanks for the comment, my hope for this video was to help others who just needed a direction. I should have explained the venting better. The Venting makes a 90 degree turn and vents right outdoors, actually it makes more of an 88 degree turn to avoid water from entering the vent from outside.. You could go up through the floor and up all the way to the roof, but if you have priced out the direct venting you will agree....... you want to take the fastest route outside.
@klungoo thanks for the video... just what i have been looking for. it looks like you have your heater is in the basement. from what i understand you need about 6 inch hole for the vent. is it ok to drill the hole that big on your rim joist.
@tjwano Yes it is perfectly fine. I understand how nervous a hole that size could make you. Believe me I know. But this is standard. I suppose you could always brace the area if it would make you feel better. But there is no need. I had a new High efficient furnace installed by home depot recently and they put in a similar vent. So, no worries. Good luck.
@tjwano Excellent! Thank you for taking the time to tell me that. I do appreciate it. Did everything go smoothly? Mine has been in for almost a year and I am still loving every minute of it. They are really something, Next you get to enjoy the benefits of saving some money on you bill....I know I noticed!
I looked it up on line and saw a couple sources say that it protects your pipes if you're using plastic water lines in your home. I don't know either way, just was thinking about that TP Valve and how it is on a regular water heater.
That's a darned good looking job you done on installing that by the way. Looks great!
kantucky 1 month ago
@kantucky Thanks a lot. And thanks for the info on the valve. Thats the kind of info I like to store away deep into my brain box for later :) I love learning something new. Thanks again.
klungoo 1 month ago
Nice clean installation. This particular unit is not designed to produce condensate. Exhaust gas temps when running on high are about 300-350 f. More than 5' horizontal vent run or verticle venting may produce a thimble full of condensate on continued low fire situations. To determine correct gas line sizing search The National Fuel Gas Code,use the table for black pipe or flex pipe if that is what your house uses. Check with your utility to make sure you have a large enough regulator and meter.
lakewood85 2 months ago
@lakewood85 Yeah, I did not know that about the condensation, but it makes sense because I've never noticed ANY water in the line. I checked for any blockages and to make sure it was working right, but there is just never any water. After the install I had a gas worker out to the house to check the regulator and gas pressure with the furnace and water heater running at the same time and it was more than fine. Thanks for the comment :)
klungoo 2 months ago
Noticed that your safety vent drain pipe is short. Code may require that to terminate not more than 6 inches from the basement floor. Some states require it to be terminated over a trapped drain. Valves required to and from appliance. You are right about dedicated circuit. 14/2 and 15A should be good. Condensate must be piped to drain, Washing machine standpipe is OK so long as there is an airgap on the tubing. If necessary pipe to an electric condensate pump.
gregoryrryan 3 months ago
@gregoryrryan Yeah, thats exactly what I did too. A few months after this video I had a High efficient furnace installed. The installers connected the condensation tube into the newly installed electric pump for me. Oddly, I never get ANY condensation from the Vent though. I do from the furnace, but not the water heater. Perhaps because the vent is so short? I don't know. And I have a question. Did you mean safety VALVE drain pipe? Because if not....I don't know what that is, and I'm concerned.
klungoo 3 months ago
@klungoo Yes, your safety valve drain pipe. The reason being is that if it goes off and anyone is standing near by, they'll be burnt by the escaping steam/water (if it does go off, that water will be far hotter than it ever is normally). by bringing it to the floor, you lessen the chance of anyone being burnt
kantucky 1 month ago
@kantucky Oh ok I got ya. That makes sense. But just so you know why it is that way, The sales rep who sold me this particular unit (who claimed to be a certified plumber) Told me the unit did not required an additional safety valve because there is one built in. I put one on anyways. Though, What I don't understand it how it would ever go off. I'm not storing any hot water and it doesnt start heating until it senses water flow. So I just put it on for added safety anyways. But it's good to know
klungoo 1 month ago
Comment removed
kantucky 1 month ago
Hi Klungoo, do you need a new gas line to install the heater? I want to install one just like you and I don't know if I need a wider gas line. Thanks for the video.
cpsadp99 4 months ago
@cpsadp99 Well first I'm no pro at this and you should consult with someone who is. For me, I already had a sufficient gas line. I found that information by reading a ton. I think a 3/4 line is pretty standard but it may depend on the unit you end up buying. Also keep in mind the distance that the gas line has to go, because that will have a lot to do with the diameter of the line where the gas enters your home. Find out how many BTUs you'll need, how much pressure you need. continue ->
klungoo 4 months ago
I did have to change the line from a 1/2 to a 3/4, but I got lucky because the furnace had a 3/4 line and I was able to pull off that. The furnace only needs a 1/2. I DID have both the new furnace and water heater tested to make sure they both were getting a sufficient amount of gas. I tested the water heater while the furnace was running and visa versa. So you should find the amount of pressure+ BTU's you need first. Ask the manufacturer of the unit you want and find what you need. Good Luck.
klungoo 4 months ago
nice setup, looks nice and clean. were actually looking to get a tankless water heater, but I'll think were going with a electric setup.
FOSICKLIKEWHA1 4 months ago
@FOSICKLIKEWHA1 Yeah I was looking at those for a while too. Those electric Hybrids were tempting. Good luck.
klungoo 4 months ago
You need a condensation tube - the vent is there obviously but your condensation spout is capped
SkyJamMusicVideos 5 months ago
@SkyJamMusicVideos Yeah it is in this video :) I wanted to get the video up as soon as possible. I have since hooked up the condensation tube.
klungoo 5 months ago
very nice clean installation..good job
dramphor 5 months ago
@dramphor Thanks, I appreciate that. :)
klungoo 5 months ago
not a bad set up except for the water connections you need bypass valves and hard pipe it in thos flex lines look like garbage and they are they will leak within a 2 year period ooh and u forgot a prefilter cuz without one you will ruin the coils
SuperPlumber420 6 months ago
@SuperPlumber420 It's been 1 1/2 years since I installed the flex lines and they are still as solid as the day I put them in. I have a hard time believing that they will suddenly start to leak in 6 months. I also had the water tested before the install to see if it was too hard/soft and if I would require a prefilter. My point is, I looked into all of that, and did extensive research on everything before jumping in. Can you explain your critiques? Or should I just take your word for it?
klungoo 6 months ago
@klungoo I agree with you on everything but the comment about not needing a prefilter.... I dont know of any municipal water system that does not have sediment... have you looked a videos of water tanks being cut open here?.... there's no tank for the sediment to settle to the bottom in so essentially it either gets hung up in the exchanger or passes thru it, sandblasting and wearing the interior of the exchanger as it does it. If your water is soft you dont have to worry about lime scale.
fathergratwick 4 months ago
@fathergratwick Thanks, This was an informative, and helpful comment. I'll go back an test the water again. If I do need the filter, it should not be to hard to instal. Do you have any suggestions on a filter? I might not have gotten everything right, but it helps to know why. Thanks :)
klungoo 4 months ago
Hi, thanks for the info, but what size is the flexible hose water line? is that a 3/4" OD or 3/4" Id? where did you buy them,thxxx
sakitlikod1 10 months ago
@sakitlikod1 I bought them at Home Depot. They are a 3/4 in. Female to female flex hose. The hoses did not specify weather they were OD or ID. And I can't stress enough how much I loved the "Shark Bite" style connectors. Ask the plumbing expert at Home Depot about all of this. The set up is very simple and easy to use. Good luck, let me know if I can answer anymore of your questions.
klungoo 10 months ago
Thanks so much for that this is the reason I seek this sort of info I am a drainlayer & water servicemen maintenance who repair bulk water mains to feed public, I am not a plumber who are qualify at this line of work. I have the confidence an knowledge all I need is point of direction an you have given along with many other video clips thank you for your knowlegde qualified or registered plumbing might tend to disagree which is understandable.
blueange1s 1 year ago
Hi your venting goes up toward the cieling cause its to dark can't see where takes off to does it go up threw floor or does it 90 degree out the side thanks.
blueange1s 1 year ago
@blueange1s Hey thanks for the comment, my hope for this video was to help others who just needed a direction. I should have explained the venting better. The Venting makes a 90 degree turn and vents right outdoors, actually it makes more of an 88 degree turn to avoid water from entering the vent from outside.. You could go up through the floor and up all the way to the roof, but if you have priced out the direct venting you will agree....... you want to take the fastest route outside.
klungoo 1 year ago
@klungoo thanks for the video... just what i have been looking for. it looks like you have your heater is in the basement. from what i understand you need about 6 inch hole for the vent. is it ok to drill the hole that big on your rim joist.
tjwano 1 year ago
@tjwano Yes it is perfectly fine. I understand how nervous a hole that size could make you. Believe me I know. But this is standard. I suppose you could always brace the area if it would make you feel better. But there is no need. I had a new High efficient furnace installed by home depot recently and they put in a similar vent. So, no worries. Good luck.
klungoo 1 year ago
@klungoo I have just finished installing mine. works great.
thanks for your video. it helped me a lot
tjwano 11 months ago
@tjwano Excellent! Thank you for taking the time to tell me that. I do appreciate it. Did everything go smoothly? Mine has been in for almost a year and I am still loving every minute of it. They are really something, Next you get to enjoy the benefits of saving some money on you bill....I know I noticed!
klungoo 11 months ago