Added: 3 years ago
From: smiatacz
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  • @briantheking there location to them is under the passenger carpet there is two grounds right next to each other message me if you have more questions

  • What do you think can cause the radio and the blower fan not to work?

    ive done the replacement but the radio doesnt work

  • gracias por tomarte el tiempo para hacer este video, me fue de gran utilidad para cambiar el heater core de mi blazer, saludos

  • First off, Kudos. But to me, this is where you save up the money and have the work done. Keep in mind, I have rebuilt top ends, replaced engines and transmissions, and other challenging stuff. This is just simply insane. I do NOT do dash removal. Too much chance of problems / rattles later.

  • @mormandy3 Yeah I know what you mean with this type of a job with I have had no problems or any rattles of any kind, withing taking photos and videos it helped out big time putting it all back together Thanks for watching

  • ok i just got a Xtream 2000 s10 and im fixing all the problems he messed up lol, found 2 gronds undone and a main fuse plug you show in the part 2 undone.. take your time putting it all back .. think he half ass the heater too so thank you your video help a lot now going to finish the job right

  • @bigwalt707 Hey i noticed you said 2 grounds? where is that located?

  • Puto como mueves la puta cámara no sabes nada l

  • would cutting the area near the two studs on the inside allow me to "bypass" removing the wheel well? I'm doing this in a place where removing the wheel will be difficult. I only need to move the HVAC box back a few inches to remove the core. I'm then thinking of "carefully" drilling a hole into the bottomk of the HVAC box to ensure all the coolant comes out (leak). Any thoughts?

  • Comment removed

  • i just got done changing mine and it took me and my brother no longer then 3 hours to get to it and replace and another hour to put back the dash.... of course it helped that the black box the heater core was in was a two piece i didnt have to remove from the fire wall just remove the cover on the inside of the vehicle :) oh and you have to drop the steering wheel to pull dash forward which two big bolts under the steering column hold all it up it took us 30 minutes to find lol 

  • TURN OFF THE NIGGER MUSIC YOU FUCKING ASSWIPE!!!

  • did u drain all your coolant? shit nvm didnt listen to it all

  • did u drain all your coolant?

  • LIMP BIZKIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!GET ROLLIN ROLLIN ROLLIN ROLLIN.....

    LIMPIN WITH THE BIZKIT

  • could do without the soundtrack!!!

  • u r the man took forever to find that last bolt

  • thanks bro u r the man i been lookin for that hidden bolt forever...lol

  • why do you even bother talking with that bullshit playing loud on the radio?

  • dude i thank you greatly for this this video ts helping me out alot and i bow to you for this repeatidly because im replacing a heater core in a 2000blazer zr2 and right now you are a god to me

  • dude i thank you greatly for this this video ts helping me out alot and i bow to you for this repeatidly

  • ur video was very helpful I got to change the heating cord on my 2001 chevy blazer now the only problem is I put everything back but right door switch harness is impossible to be found so now the inner lighting is off any help in locating that harness

  • The video was bad ass and helped a lot. The bolt on the firewall inside HVAC with the "cut out for service" was a real surprise. Needless to say of the bolts I have left over, I left it out on purpose. Also cut the bottom two in floorboard. Never will I have to get that one out again.

    All went back good excpect I don't have dome/courtesy/floor board lights...yet Super crappy job overall, but you helped Bigtime.

    Thanks.... Austin TX

  • @TheSlice69 Thanks for the comments and support! I did have the same interior lighting problem at first but it was just a disconnected wire harness. Over all yeah I would probably cut the lower floor board bolts just to make a furture repair much quicker.

  • did u replace heater core with oem Delco or an aftermarket one? If aftermarket, can u tell any difference with it?

  • @letterphase - I used cheappie $50. Wish I'd payed for better part now. If it goes out I'm not replacing it again any time soon. :)

  • @letterphase I'm not real sure which one I bought but it was a aftermarket part around 50$. This repair video is almost 2 years old and I havent had any problems with the heater core. The one thing i did notice was the after market did not come with the stick on felt like the oem so i just switched the felt to the new one.

  • DUUDE THAT A/C bolt is a bitch!

  • @Jord717 HELL YA!! I left it out!

  • duuude i can't get that a/c bult out!! I have a 2000 s10 and my a/c is different then yours :S

  • smiatacz we are having alot of trouble getting the black box that holds the heater core lose. We have watched the video over and over but there is something still holding the box. Please help

  • @dragonflybeauty100 Well the black hvac box is a challenging process, make sure you have the bolts and nuts removed from both sides of the firewall, also the one 10mm bolt on the firewall side, on top of the engine side of the black hvac box you will see,"cut here for service", the last bolt is located under that little panel.

  • @dragonflybeauty100

    probably the gold bolt on center of firewall (in engine) that hold assembly. Just sovled same question today.. :)

  • is this the same process for a truck to ?

  • @redrider6575 depending on the year of the truck, yes its the same. I think with the truck its from 94-04 its the same process as this video.

  • Thanks SO MUCH for making this video, it was very helpful in getting that last, pain in the neck bolt out. I was a little nervous about cutting it, until I saw that that was what you had to do to get it out. Thanks alot! Don't stop making these, as a small time mechanic-on-the-side, these videos are often very helpful!!

  • Thanks for all the comments, yeah it not that hard of a project really, I much rather as the owner know that everything went back together just they way it should plus its a learning experience.

  • I just spent $25 on the haynes manual.. It walked me through most of it.. It didnt mention a thing about the two bolts behind the wheel well... not even the short cut of cutting them (which I will be doing). Those are the bolts that made me give up and come search a video like this on youtube. I appreciate you doing this. It is hard, but I would never spend $800 for someone else to do it. I am about 4 hours in now...

  • i would have never got the dash out much less the heater core without your video thanks alot man

  • Wow, that is an absolute bitch to remove! You have much more patience than I my friend.

  • THANKYOU SO MUCH, You are AWESOME! I wasted a whole day after I got the dash out trying to figure out where all the bolts were for the black heater box. We were down to 1 bolt & couldn't find it. Your video showed us where to look for the missing bolt that was not listed in our Haynes manual. Core is in & hopefully tomorrow the rest will be back together. This was on a 2001 S10 truck.

  • Your a life saver. If I knew it was going to take this much work, I would have paid the $800 but I was already 3/4 through. That last part was what I needed. Same procedure for a 2002 s 10 pickup

  • I know of a MUCH MUCH easier way Took me 2 hours to replace heater core in 95 Blazer. Take bottom plastic off, remove bolts to the plastic box around heater core, thats the toughest part(requires small hands of a girlfriend or small kid haha) then once you can access heater core use a cut off wheel and cut the lines going into heater core. On the new heater core take lines out, run the lines into the engine bay, put new heater core on and attach lines make sure to crimp back down and your done

  • we're having problems removing the panel underneath the steering wheel with the parking break release lever. how do we get that thing off?

  • @adella1221 there will be some bolts holding the panel in place, other wise the parking brake release cable slips out of the retaining clip

  • Comment removed

  • @adella1221

    Put the E brake on, This will reveal more cable, then take a set of vise grips and latch on to the cable, you will then be able to push the crimped on connector out of its slot. You can leave the vise grips right on the cable and reverse the process when you reinstall you vehicle. You will then pull the loose end up thru your dash mounts as you remove the dash the handle should stay right on the dash .

    gunner522 21 minutes ago

  • looks like i spent 800 of the best dollars to have mine replaced haha what a job, did u use dexcool? im thinking of switching to green but i dont want the green to cause problems....

  • i need to do this to my s10 but this is just too much work for me at the time lol im just going to go with a 12v heater lol

  • my buddy and i put a core in his 98 blazer man it was a bitch nice vid on the installation process.

  • @djsleezyc

    now my core is going bad in my 96 lumina i wish i could find a vid on that installation process i know the whole dash has to come out you can't even see the heater box.

  • I hate your pussy music

  • I have to do mine too before the winter. Whatever you do, Don't put that Dexcool shit back in it. That five year shit sucks, and I know it's a main cause of this problem. My brother's a mechanic, and owns a 2000 S10 Extreme, and the first thing he did was change the coolant to the regualr coolant. You have to flush the hell out of your motor and coolant system before putting in the new coolant. I didn't do mine, and mine took a shit last winter.

  • Thanx alot for the help especially about the access to the bolt under the rubber boot~ much appreciated

  • This video was a great help, thanks for documenting it. You are accurate with everything that needs to come out and access via the wheel well. Took me 10 hours start to finish

  • will do thanks again

  • thats F***EN great you made this video man. i heard its a b**ch to take out, but not that much. Ur video was very helpful, very,very very, random but super helpful thanks for the help

  • thanks for the comment, yes very very random because I have a.d.d. but if u need any info on the repair just send me a message and I will help out the best i can

  • yo smiatacz, me and my bro took everything out, heater cores in, and the suv doesn`t even have power now. not even to the seats or to the gauges. any ideas what i might have missed along the way. it makes wierd clicking noise,possibly vacuum lines but does not have power

  • check the main harness make sure its plugged in, that the only thing i could think of, is your battery full charged also

  • your video was great it really help us to change our heater core in our daughters 2000 blazer. we were stumped at one point and you helped us get though it with out giving up. It took us 15 hours to change ours. Needless to say that we live in norrthern new york and it is only 15 degrees and no heat in the garage. couldn't have went at a better time. lol If it wasn't for people like you we wouldn't have been able to get it done. Thank you so much for your vidieo.

  • I'm guessing this would be the same for a 2001 Blazer 4dr 4x4?

  • Yeah I would say it would be the same thing.

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  • how do you remove the knee bolster under the steering column? i cant get that part off because of the break release cable

  • its simple, follow the cable and disconect it.

  • wow, I really hope thats not why my heater stopped working. too much work involved. lol

  • I didnt think i would find this video on here. We all appreciate it, now I can start working on my baby.

  • thanks man real helf info i am glad you made this thank you

  • Your video helped me a ton! Would've gotten stuck on the bolt that you gotta cut out the access panel to get at. Got it done in 8 hrs,and saved at least $800! Thanks again.

  • This video helped me out majorly. i was trying to use a haynes manual to do it and the manual is garbage. i got the dash out fine, but i got stuck after that. i took the fender off but to anyone who is doing this job just cut the plastic tabs on the bottom of the box inside of the cab (the ones that have 2 studs and one bolt in it) take out the bolt and cut the 2 stud tabs. itll save alot of time and you still have a bolt there to hold the unit in place.

  • also, if your heater core is leaking (always inside the car) if you need to buy some time you can always bypass the core. since the water pump runs to the core then out of the core to the block you can run the pump straight to the block. wont have heat but you can drive until you have the time or money to get it fixed.

  • well, i did it. i went to my local library and printed out the instructions. the only special tool anyone will need is TORX wrenches. it's not that hard just time consuming. the wole dash has to be rolled back and pulled out. anyway great video you inspired me and save me 1000.00. thanks again.

  • Question: Did you find you needed any special tools you didn't have while doing this? I would hate to get the dash torn apart then realize i needed a specialized tool.

  • no special tools that i had to use, over all it was pretty easy

  • hello, you have inspired me to do it myself on my 1996 chevy blazer. for my car i began to smell antifreeze while driving and that soon turned into 2 gal of water on my passenger floor withing 20 min of driving. anyway gonna try it myself. thanks.

  • i'm not sure if 1996 is going to be the same, its pretty close but not sure, if u search google, blazer forums has alot great info, and even some pics.

  • My heater core went out in my 86 s-10. my whole damn passenger side floor is a pool of coolant. I usually ride alone so i never noticed it till i cleaned my mats and found a puddle of engine coolant.

  • Thanks man, I'll be doing this today, I'm hoping that it's just a hose instead of an actual leak in the core so I can return the one I just bought :D

  • all the hose's are on the outside of the core under the hood so so if its leaking on the inside its got to be the heater core

  • I've got the whole thing loose at this point (defroster cover is destroyed however :( ) and calling it quits for the night.

    Quick question : Does the passenger airbag stay attached to the main dash while removing it? I think the only things I need to disconnect at this point are the power wires to the fuse block, and the vacuum lines from the HVAC unit.

    Also, is it possible to remove the HVAC unit without going in through the fender well? I hate taking that fender well out :\

  • Yea its a fun job, i broke a few things doing mine but nothing super glue would not fix.

    Anyways are far as the passenger side airbag it stays rite in the dash, i believe the wires for it are in the main harness, just make sure ur battery is disconnected.

    Might be possible to get to fender well bolts with it in, but i'm not sure, i took it out, didnt take all that much more effort, plus didnt have to lay on the floor or bust my hands.

    Feel free to send any questions my way

  • Thanks a bunch, should have it finished up tomorrow I think.

    Btw, I'm pretty sure there is an engineer somewhere laughing about where he put the heater core in 2001 Blazers. :<

  • You are probably 100% right on that. I am about to attempt this job myself this weekend.

  • On the lower passenger side of the HVAC unit there is 2 studs and one bolt, on a few web sites i read some people have took a demal tool and cut out the plactic around the 2 studs. Doing it that way I dont think the fender well has to come out, however i didnt feel safe nor want rattles in my dash so i did it the right way.

    Search google for blazer heater core replacement, blazer forums website had the most useful information on this repair also

  • This doesnt look easy.

  • finally a chevy blazer heater core video!! your the man

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