You're using acrylic enamels or just artistic paints? The result is... it's more woodish than a real one made by carpenter :P How do you protect it? Transparent laquer or something? And about the glaze- you made it or you're buying it? Best regards, Greg
@gswiaczny thank you for your questions / compliments. I like Golden's Proceed system for samples and other techniques - for some reason YouTube won't let me paste the link, but you can Google it. It's a slow-drying acrylic. You can buy it in Belgium at their online store. For the actual jobsite, I use the traditional technique of WATER (flogging) - OIL (figure) - OIL (overglaze) - Varnish. This gives me complete control and best results. On a job, I use shellac or a water-based varnish.
Thank you for your quick response :) That's all I need to know. Now just waiting for some "free money" to spend on materials, and I'll definately try this.
I've also tried to paint a faux marble and... well, it's not as good as I want it to be, but for the first time it's not that bad (I hope so :P). I'lll become better and better in future. Thank you for your videos and advices :) Once again best regards, Greg
@mortier9, on this particular sample, I used the same color for both the burl and the mahogany. Anything in the burnt orange color range is fine. Honestly, you can start with any base in the yellows, reds, oranges, and browns as long as the base color at least 2 values lighter than the overall finish color you want to achieve.
Another thing is 95% of my wood graining jobs I am asked to match an existing wood somewhere in the house or even a sample that the designer or client has given me...
@mortier9 ...so all I do is take my color chart and look at the lightest part of the wood and chose a color that matches or comes close to matching that lighter hue. I know I am building layers before the finish coat - flogging, figure and side grain, and final moires, effects, and color matching. Always look at the colors from the actual wood you want to match, whether it is surrounding trimwork or a sample of wood the client gives you and take your colors from that. Marble is the same way.
You're using acrylic enamels or just artistic paints? The result is... it's more woodish than a real one made by carpenter :P How do you protect it? Transparent laquer or something? And about the glaze- you made it or you're buying it? Best regards, Greg
gswiaczny 2 weeks ago
@gswiaczny thank you for your questions / compliments. I like Golden's Proceed system for samples and other techniques - for some reason YouTube won't let me paste the link, but you can Google it. It's a slow-drying acrylic. You can buy it in Belgium at their online store. For the actual jobsite, I use the traditional technique of WATER (flogging) - OIL (figure) - OIL (overglaze) - Varnish. This gives me complete control and best results. On a job, I use shellac or a water-based varnish.
inchwormdesign 2 weeks ago
@inchwormdesign
Thank you for your quick response :) That's all I need to know. Now just waiting for some "free money" to spend on materials, and I'll definately try this.
I've also tried to paint a faux marble and... well, it's not as good as I want it to be, but for the first time it's not that bad (I hope so :P). I'lll become better and better in future. Thank you for your videos and advices :) Once again best regards, Greg
gswiaczny 2 weeks ago
faux wood Real Talent !
raraory1 2 months ago
Well stated! Keep the craft pure
macaulayman 4 months ago
@mortier9, on this particular sample, I used the same color for both the burl and the mahogany. Anything in the burnt orange color range is fine. Honestly, you can start with any base in the yellows, reds, oranges, and browns as long as the base color at least 2 values lighter than the overall finish color you want to achieve.
Another thing is 95% of my wood graining jobs I am asked to match an existing wood somewhere in the house or even a sample that the designer or client has given me...
inchwormdesign 6 months ago
@mortier9 ...so all I do is take my color chart and look at the lightest part of the wood and chose a color that matches or comes close to matching that lighter hue. I know I am building layers before the finish coat - flogging, figure and side grain, and final moires, effects, and color matching. Always look at the colors from the actual wood you want to match, whether it is surrounding trimwork or a sample of wood the client gives you and take your colors from that. Marble is the same way.
inchwormdesign 6 months ago
What color are using as a base coat for your mahogany?
mortier9 6 months ago
Very nice man.
IKIERAN 8 months ago
What do you mean do not get frustrated? What a great job jeff!!!
galonso45 8 months ago